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Building 1st ar10 need help

Young_sixgun

Private
Minuteman
Jan 8, 2021
15
1
San Antonio
Hello everyone I am new to the forum and joined to get some help from all of yall.
So I am building my first ar and I decided to build an ar10 for my first one go big or go home right. So I decided on a 6.5 Creedmoor ar10 build for my first ar to build. I will list what I had in mind to build this rifle and need help with the buffer and bolt carrier group and gas system. I want to make sure this rifle is going to work flawlessly once put together.

Here is the build list

6.5 Creedmoor build

Aero precision m5 upper
Aero precision m5 lower
M5 MOE lower parts kit
15" M5 enhanced m-lok gen 2 handguard
Aero precision 22 inch stainless steel barrel
Aero precision m5 rifle buffer kit
Magpul prs gen 3 stock
Aero precision .936 adjustable gas block (when it comes out)
Aero precision rifle lenght stainless gas tube
Aero 308/7.62 Bolt carrier group nitride
Vg6 epsilon muzzle brake

Please any input on this will be greatly appreciated. Also the plan for this rifle is to build a long range ar rifle to reach out at from 0-1000 yards and maybe further if wanted. Want this thing to be a tack driver and operate very sound. Thank you in advance for any input.
 
Several years ago I built one with similar specs, same upper and barrel with a different adjustable gas block. No matter what ammo was used including factory match loads I had pressure problems and was piercing primers. Dropped from 140 to 130 bullets and cut back powder charge as much as 5 grains from my known good loads and was still popping primers. Switched to JP high pressure bolt and the issue 100% disappeared. Was able to shoot hot loaded 140's with no issue, finally settled on a 130eldm over h4350 load giving a very gentle shooting .4moa rifle. I wont even consider putting an AR10 together now without using the JP bolt.
 
I ran a ton of rounds through it when I 1st got it running right, including a couple PRS matches. I shoot almost 100% suppressed, so I tend to shoot my bolt guns more now due to the AR gas in the face and filth when suppressed. I do still get it once in a while for ringing steel.
 
+1 for the JP High pressure bolt,excellent. One other thing to check as you are assembling,once you have the barrel,gas block,and tube installed,flip the upper upside down,and make sure the bulb end of the gas tube is in the center of the oval,milled relief in the charging handle slot. Some manufactures tubes are slightly short,if the tube is forward of center,it will cause cycling issues. The rest of your build list looks ok,but if budget allows,I would upgrade the trigger,TriggerTech Diamond,Calvin Elite,Elfmann,or if you want two stage, SD-E Geissele.
 
Hello everyone I am new to the forum and joined to get some help from all of yall.
So I am building my first ar and I decided to build an ar10 for my first one go big or go home right. So I decided on a 6.5 Creedmoor ar10 build for my first ar to build. I will list what I had in mind to build this rifle and need help with the buffer and bolt carrier group and gas system. I want to make sure this rifle is going to work flawlessly once put together.

Here is the build list

6.5 Creedmoor build

Aero precision m5 upper
Aero precision m5 lower
M5 MOE lower parts kit
15" M5 enhanced m-lok gen 2 handguard
Aero precision 22 inch stainless steel barrel
Aero precision m5 rifle buffer kit
Magpul prs gen 3 stock
Aero precision .936 adjustable gas block (when it comes out)
Aero precision rifle lenght stainless gas tube
Aero 308/7.62 Bolt carrier group nitride
Vg6 epsilon muzzle brake

Please any input on this will be greatly appreciated. Also the plan for this rifle is to build a long range ar rifle to reach out at from 0-1000 yards and maybe further if wanted. Want this thing to be a tack driver and operate very sound. Thank you in advance for any input.
I built a similar rifle about 4 years ago using AP parts except that it's got a X-caliber 24" barrel in .243 Win shooting hot 95 grain handloads. I absolutely love it - it is my go-to rifle when I head out to the range for some longer distance shooting at steel and paper or when I take friends out to indoctrinate them. I wouldn't think about it too much - you are using all AP parts. Two suggestions though - 1. Get a good trigger right from the start. I like the feel of Giessele 2 stage triggers and have them on all my LRs/ARs, and 2. Consider adding some mass to your buffer with some replacement tungsten weights. They are easy to swap out with a drift punch and hammer. The added weight combined with your adjustable gas block will go a long way to tune your recoil and cartridge ejection.

Link to tungsten buffer weights: EABCO Tungsten Buffer Weights fit AR15, 3-Pack

Let us know how it turns out.
 
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Thank you I appreciate your feed back. I was planning on getting a different trigger after I get it all together and shooting it a little bit and will do on the buffer thanks. I will update once I have it all together only problem holding me up is locating the enhanced gen2 m-lok 15" fde handguard. Can't find one anywhere for the m5.
 
How much are you budgeting for this build, I only ask is 308's AR's can be somewhat finicky if something is off and for a first build, I am not sure I would chose a 308 AR.
 
I only had trouble with my large frame: trying to tune loadings with a carbine kit on it. The carbine type buffer for a large frame, is only 2.5" long, and does not allow for enough weight. Mild hand loads would pop the primer right out of the case and jam it in upper. Switched to rifle type tube/buffer, problem solved. My large frame Aero build is one of my favored systems to grab. Best of luck, nothing like feeding ammo through a large frame
 
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Should be a nice setup, I was in your boat a few years ago and was teetering between a Aero or a Wilson Combat. Ending up building the Wilson Combat and it took a little tuning to get it to run smooth, mostly because I run it suppressed 50% of the time. They can be more finicky than building a AR-15 but I viewed as part of the fun.

My Set-up:
Wilson Combat WC-10 Billet w/ 15" Wilson M-Lok Handguard
Wilson Combat Super Sniper 24" Barrel in 6.5 Creedmoor
SLR Rifleworks Adjustable Gas Block
Wilson Combat NP3 BCG
Dead Air Armament Muzzle Brake
Wilson WC-10 Small Parts Kit
Magpul PRS Gen 3 Stock
Magpul MOE+ Grip
JP Enterprise HD Silent Capture Buffer Spring
Geissele Super Charging Handle
Geissele Super Single Stage Trigger
Geissele Super Precision Scope Mount (20MOA)
Sig Sauer Tango 6, 5-30x56 MRAD Scope

I run this gun quite a bit and shoot it out 1000 yards accurately, have not been to a range that i can push it any further yet.
 
I only had trouble with my large frame: trying to tune loadings with a carbine kit on it. The carbine type buffer for a large frame, is only 2.5" long, and does not allow for enough weight. Mild hand loads would pop the primer right out of the case and jam it in upper. Switched to rifle type tube/buffer, problem solved. My large frame Aero build is one of my favored systems to grab. Best of luck, nothing like feeding ammo through a large frame
I hear you, popped some primers with my 45 Raptor carbine build - the light weight of the standard LR308 carbine buffer and spring can't adequately control BCG cycling at the motivation of a 300 grain load. To resolve that, I was working on my own "Heavy Buffer" on the lathe last night. Making it to fit the extended A5 carbine buffer tube (Vltor, BCM, or Magpul UBR). With three tungsten weights inside it should come it at around 10 oz - more than enough to tame the recoil of the 45 Raptor.
 

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Several years ago I built one with similar specs, same upper and barrel with a different adjustable gas block. No matter what ammo was used including factory match loads I had pressure problems and was piercing primers. Dropped from 140 to 130 bullets and cut back powder charge as much as 5 grains from my known good loads and was still popping primers. Switched to JP high pressure bolt and the issue 100% disappeared. Was able to shoot hot loaded 140's with no issue, finally settled on a 130eldm over h4350 load giving a very gentle shooting .4moa rifle. I wont even consider putting an AR10 together now without using the JP bolt.
The JP hp bolt and firing pin solved the same problem for me in a 243 gas gun I put together about this time last year. BTW, barrel was 22" .936" at gas journal and I added a Superlative Arms adj. gas block. Runs just fine now.
 
I hear you, popped some primers with my 45 Raptor carbine build - the light weight of the standard LR308 carbine buffer and spring can't adequately control BCG cycling at the motivation of a 300 grain load. To resolve that, I was working on my own "Heavy Buffer" on the lathe last night. Making it to fit the extended A5 carbine buffer tube (Vltor, BCM, or Magpul UBR). With three tungsten weights inside it should come it at around 10 oz - more than enough to tame the recoil of the 45 Raptor.
Thats a great idea! Nice looking machining as well.
 
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I built a similar rifle about 4 years ago using AP parts except that it's got a X-caliber 24" barrel in .243 Win shooting hot 95 grain handloads. I absolutely love it - it is my go-to rifle when I head out to the range for some longer distance shooting at steel and paper or when I take friends out to indoctrinate them. I wouldn't think about it too much - you are using all AP parts. Two suggestions though - 1. Get a good trigger right from the start. I like the feel of Giessele 2 stage triggers and have them on all my LRs/ARs, and 2. Consider adding some mass to your buffer with some replacement tungsten weights. They are easy to swap out with a drift punch and hammer. The added weight combined with your adjustable gas block will go a long way to tune your recoil and cartridge ejection.

Link to tungsten buffer weights: EABCO Tungsten Buffer Weights fit AR15, 3-Pack

Let us know how it turns out.
Thanks a lot for linking this. Having a hard time getting a 300BLK pistol to cycle properly and hate to keep buying buffers when I can tune one to suit my needs.

On topic, OP, I built my AR10 with all AP parts, chambered in .308 and only took a few rounds to dial in the adjustable gas block. It’s been trouble free ever since, and extremely fun.
8B1F9E79-2BF8-4C4E-BABB-C84291F7BA74.jpeg
 
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Here's mine I built a while back. She's a shooter! Spend your money on a good BCG, Barrel, and Trigger. That's my 2 cents.

Oh, and get a good adjustable gas block.
 

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Wow nice rifle. What optic are you running on it and what gas block did you get?
That is a very cheap Monstrum 6-24. I may upgrade the optic eventually but for now it certainly does fine for me. I’m sure the rifle is more talented than I am. The gas block is the Aero adjustable block. It only took a few rounds to dial in proper cycling. Other than the A2 style stock and Magpul grip and bipod, the rifle is entirely Aero.
 
I have pretty much the same parts list, except I went with a 2MBTs trigger, PRS stock, with a carbine tube, Sprinco Orange, and H2 buffer and Aero fixed gas block. It's good for 1 moa, maybe better with a better trigger man. It ejects Hornady American Gunner 140 grain, at 4 o'clock, every time. No problems with it, at all. The Aero M5 platform is very nice, for the money.
 
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