Building a LH from scratch, help please

[Flying Turtle]

Long story short, I’ve had zero luck finding what I need and I know a custom build is an option, I just flat out don’t know how. There’s the truth of it. I’ve always been able to shoot, average at best in these ranks, I’m assuming, but I’ve never embarrassed myself. What do I need to build a lefty bolt action, with a pistol grip, in 6.5 creed or .308 win?

The long version, for those interested. lol

I was diagnosed with juvenile rheumatoid arthritis at 13, and I’m 45 now. The damage is systemic, but as it relates to shooting I have some very critical limitations. So much so, that I’ve only been shooting pistols in the last 20 years or so. I’m right handed, but I can’t rotate my forearm due to damage in the elbow joint. To visualize this, put out your right hand as if you were going to shake someone’s hand, and that is almost as far as I can rotate my forearm and hand. I cannot hold a standard rifle stock because of this. Also, due to the right elbow my right arm doesn’t bend less than 85 degrees. This means I have to have a 14.5 LOP minimum to get my finger on the trigger and still put the stock in my shoulder. (I’ve just recently learned this data about the LOP) so I haven’t even considered shooting long guns in ages.

I was in PA recently with friends and found myself behind a semi-auto 12ga, that just happened to fit all of my physical quirks. I ran through half a dozen mags of 12ga, at least. This got us all started down the rabbit hole of putting a rifle back in my hands so I can go hunting, which I’ve never done before, but always wanted to try. There are simply some things you assume you give up, after your third hip replacement. LOL

We got the measurements, and figured out what would work. I’m going to be stationary because it’s necessary, so likely from a tripod. I shoot righty, but I can’t operate the bolt with my right hand because my elbow won’t allow enough range of motion to run the action. So that brings us to a left handed action. I can’t hold a standard stock, but can operate using a pistol grip just fine. Lastly, we determined the LOP needs to be 14-15 inches, that latter is preferable.

I’m not looking to enter competition, and regrettably I’ll never be in the service. I just want a functional rifle chambered so that I can hit the woods and possibly put some fresh venison in the smoker. If I could pick up a cheap Ruger American and be on my way, I would. I know that’s not the case, so here I am looking for solutions. I have seen a few threads where custom builds are mentioned, but I simply don’t know all of the language or even what is needed to end up with a working rifle that will hit somewhere near where I’m aiming.

So that’s the long version. If you’re willing to help me out, it would be appreciated. Just don’t assume I know anything more than how to aim, breathe and pull a trigger. (It will save us both some frustration LOL)

 

[kyzim311]

It sounds like you need a rifle with an adjustable length of pull. For factory options, Savage has their accufit system (ugly but functional), and their are a number of chassis based factory rifles with adjustable length of pull built in. The custom route is also an option, or you can buy a new stock for a factory rifle to split the difference.

What cartridge are you looking at? And what type of budget are you looking at for the rifle alone? Sub $1000, you will need to look at factory options or putting a new stock on a budget rifle. As your budget goes up, so do your options. If you go with a full custom, you can get exactly what you want but you will pay for it.

 

[pabrousseau]

Is this strictly a deer hunting rifle or what uses?

 

[THEIS]

Hi,

Question that you may not have thought about..

Being you have shoulder issues and everything else that goes along with RA;
Being you would be hunting from a tripod and other support systems..

Have you thought about a long barrel rifle cartridge pistol build?
That might alleviate some of the shoulder and bone jarring issues.

Sincerely,
Theis

 

[Flying Turtle]

First and foremost, thank you! As someone that is obviously from outside the circles that you all operate in, I appreciate the willingness to help out. I had a guy at a gun shop tell me the best solution was just to stay home, multiple have simply said that they couldn't help. So again, thanks for the willingness to help.

It sounds like you need a rifle with an adjustable length of pull. For factory options, Savage has their accufit system (ugly but functional), and their are a number of chassis based factory rifles with adjustable length of pull built in. The custom route is also an option, or you can buy a new stock for a factory rifle to split the difference.

What cartridge are you looking at? And what type of budget are you looking at for the rifle alone? Sub $1000, you will need to look at factory options or putting a new stock on a budget rifle. As your budget goes up, so do your options. If you go with a full custom, you can get exactly what you want but you will pay for it.

The Savage 10 BA Stealth was the rifle I was initially looking at. It fit me well, I can handle it easily, and it comes in LH action (if I could find it).

I was looking at .308 initially, but after more research, 6.5 creedmoor seems like it would be a better fit for me personally. The cost of rounds might be more, but the lessening the recoil while getting similar results with game, sounds like a better bet.

I have no problem with putting factory hardware on a custom stock, I just don't know the vocabulary or what I would need to buy. I've watched video's and read a dozen articles on stocks requiring bedding pillars, chassis systems that don't, different types of bottom metals, and top or bottom bolt releases.

There is a lot of info out there, and I just don't have the expertise or experience to know what I don't know.

Is this strictly a deer hunting rifle or what uses?

Yes, primarily hunting deer and similarly sized game, potentially elk, and range time, of course. I don't have any current ambitions towards PRS.
I just can't physically shoulder a standard hunting stock.

Have you thought about a long barrel rifle cartridge pistol build?
That might alleviate some of the shoulder and bone jarring issues.

I have, and even as a Plan B have looked at going to a .44mag pistol. I can shoot them without a problem, so it's an option, but I won't lie, in my youth I enjoyed the hell out of shooting long guns. Plus, if I'm going to drop a grand on a pistol that is suitable for hunting, my preference would be to put that into a rifle.

As far as the RA goes, the recoil was one of the things that kept me away from long guns. After cutting loose on that semi-auto 12ga with no issues at all (not even the next day) I'm not as worried as I once was. Honestly, I think that some much of the stuff that used to hurt, has fused on it's own, that there just isn't much movement left to jar.

 

[kyzim311]

First and foremost, thank you! As someone that is obviously from outside the circles that you all operate in, I appreciate the willingness to help out. I had a guy at a gun shop tell me the best solution was just to stay home, multiple have simply said that they couldn't help. So again, thanks for the willingness to help.



The Savage 10 BA Stealth was the rifle I was initially looking at. It fit me well, I can handle it easily, and it comes in LH action (if I could find it).

I was looking at .308 initially, but after more research, 6.5 creedmoor seems like it would be a better fit for me personally. The cost of rounds might be more, but the lessening the recoil while getting similar results with game, sounds like a better bet.

I have no problem with putting factory hardware on a custom stock, I just don't know the vocabulary or what I would need to buy. I've watched video's and read a dozen articles on stocks requiring bedding pillars, chassis systems that don't, different types of bottom metals, and top or bottom bolt releases.

There is a lot of info out there, and I just don't have the expertise or experience to know what I don't know.



Yes, primarily hunting deer and similarly sized game, potentially elk, and range time, of course. I don't have any current ambitions towards PRS.
I just can't physically shoulder a standard hunting stock.


I have, and even as a Plan B have looked at going to a .44mag pistol. I can shoot them without a problem, so it's an option, but I won't lie, in my youth I enjoyed the hell out of shooting long guns. Plus, if I'm going to drop a grand on a pistol that is suitable for hunting, my preference would be to put that into a rifle.

As far as the RA goes, the recoil was one of the things that kept me away from long guns. After cutting loose on that semi-auto 12ga with no issues at all (not even the next day) I'm not as worried as I once was. Honestly, I think that some much of the stuff that used to hurt, has fused on it's own, that there just isn't much movement left to jar.

6.5 Creedmoor is a very popular round and is a great choice for deer, a little light for elk but would work in a pinch. You simplest option is something like the BA stealth, also look at the 110 stealth evolution and the 110 precision. All available in left hand versions, the precision and evolution add a muzzle brake to reduce recoil. You will get more noise and blast with a brake, so the other option for recoil reduction is a suppressor but that gets expensive quick. I will also note other companies make similar rifles, just not sure what you like in a rifle (looks, weight, features, upgradability, ect.).

If you want to go the stock route, for a beginner I would avoid anything that needs bedded. It isn't hard to do, but chassis type systems are easier as they are bolt and go. MDT makes good chassis, Magpul also makes more of a crossover styled stock (stock look, chassis mounting and modularity). You can also get a manners stock with the mini chassis, but that is a high end route. There are many more chassis options out there, but that gives you a little to look at. If you want to put a new stock on a rifle, make sure you find a stock that works with your rifle first.

 

[Flying Turtle]

You simplest option is something like the BA stealth, also look at the 110 stealth evolution and the 110 precision. All available in left hand versions, the precision and evolution add a muzzle brake to reduce recoil.

I completely agree, but locating one has been incredibly difficult. I never thought it would be harder to buy a Bolt Action than an AR platform.

...There are many more chassis options out there, but that gives you a little to look at. If you want to put a new stock on a rifle, make sure you find a stock that works with your rifle first.

That's been a huge challenge. Finding something that isn't only available in Right Hand. Plus there are questions that I don't have answers to, and have had trouble finding. For example the ESS chassis says it fits the Ruger American, but it's only available in RH. The LSS-XL comes in LH but how do you determine whether a rifle is top or bottom bolt release? The specs online for a given rifle don't, Savage Axis or Savage 10, doesn't specify but the manufacturers are distinguishing between top and bottom.

I can find parts easier than assembled rifles, but I don't know what parts to look for. I don't care if it's pretty as long as it's putting rounds on target as accurately as the shooter can.

 

[spife7980]

That’s one reason why I would skip savage, it’s hard to have confidence when the maker can’t even decide what to label something. There are 10 different rifles with the same label on them. And then there are the models that are actually the same but with different labels. They are all fucked up.

 

[Luke G]

For a hunting rifle you could pick up a left hand tikka and throw it in the xlr element magnesium chassis. The whole system will stay nice and lightweight and the chassis will give you lots of adjustability so you can set it up in a way that fits you best.

 

[kyzim311]

The LSS-XL comes in LH but how do you determine whether a rifle is top or bottom bolt release? The specs online for a given rifle don't, Savage Axis or Savage 10, doesn't specify but the manufacturers are distinguishing between top and bottom.
[/QUOTE]
I am by no means a Savage expert, but I know enough to be dangerous. generally the 10/110 series is the main Savage action everyone builds on, but the LSS chassis is compatible with the Axis as well. I have pictures below to hopefully help with top vs bottom bolt release on the Savage. Bottom is the standard, top is the better version and easier to use. Bottom is shown first.

The easiest action to build with from a parts perspective is the Remington 700 platform, but it comes with its own set of headaches. Tikka is a nice option as well, as Luke G mentioned, but you will be much more limited on parts compared to the 700 or Savage.

 

[Flying Turtle]

AGAIN, Thank you all for your responses! I really do appreciate everyone that has jumped in to help me with this.

The LSS-XL comes in LH but how do you determine whether a rifle is top or bottom bolt release? The specs online for a given rifle don't, Savage Axis or Savage 10, doesn't specify but the manufacturers are distinguishing between top and bottom.

I am by no means a Savage expert, but I know enough to be dangerous. generally the 10/110 series is the main Savage action everyone builds on, but the LSS chassis is compatible with the Axis as well. I have pictures below to hopefully help with top vs bottom bolt release on the Savage. Bottom is the standard, top is the better version and easier to use. Bottom is shown first.
View attachment 7498881
View attachment 7498882
The easiest action to build with from a parts perspective is the Remington 700 platform, but it comes with its own set of headaches. Tikka is a nice option as well, as Luke G mentioned, but you will be much more limited on parts compared to the 700 or Savage.
[/QUOTE]

Is there a way to find out which Savage models use top or bottom? It feels like there is no real rhyme or reason as to which is used.


Spending 1300 on a Tikka, 900 on a Bergara, or Savage full rifles just to put the guts into a new chassis, doesn't feel cost effective.
This is going to sound absurdly elementary in this company, but is there a standard compliment of parts I would need to source if I bought them individually?

 

[143lrsd]

Do you live in a state that allows suppressors for hunting? If so, along with all of the other suggestions above, and if legal in your area, I would highly recommend a can for recoil reduction. I run one on my 6.5 CM and it sound and most importantly feels like shooting a 22.

 

[Luke G]

[/QUOTE]
I am by no means a Savage expert, but I know enough to be dangerous. generally the 10/110 series is the main Savage action everyone builds on, but the LSS chassis is compatible with the Axis as well. I have pictures below to hopefully help with top vs bottom bolt release on the Savage. Bottom is the standard, top is the better version and easier to use. Bottom is shown first.
View attachment 7498881
View attachment 7498882
The easiest action to build with from a parts perspective is the Remington 700 platform, but it comes with its own set of headaches. Tikka is a nice option as well, as Luke G mentioned, but you will be much more limited on parts compared to the 700 or Savage.
[/QUOTE]
I definitely agree that tikka doesn’t have the same aftermarket as the 700 but at this point it probably matches or exceeds that of the savage. Tikka popularity has taken off and the aftermarket for them has followed. Plus the tikka action itself is of significantly higher quality that both of those in my opinion.

 

[Luke G]

AGAIN, Thank you all for your responses! I really do appreciate everyone that has jumped in to help me with this.


I am by no means a Savage expert, but I know enough to be dangerous. generally the 10/110 series is the main Savage action everyone builds on, but the LSS chassis is compatible with the Axis as well. I have pictures below to hopefully help with top vs bottom bolt release on the Savage. Bottom is the standard, top is the better version and easier to use. Bottom is shown first.
View attachment 7498881
View attachment 7498882
The easiest action to build with from a parts perspective is the Remington 700 platform, but it comes with its own set of headaches. Tikka is a nice option as well, as Luke G mentioned, but you will be much more limited on parts compared to the 700 or Savage.

Is there a way to find out which Savage models use top or bottom? It feels like there is no real rhyme or reason as to which is used.


Spending 1300 on a Tikka, 900 on a Bergara, or Savage full rifles just to put the guts into a new chassis, doesn't feel cost effective.
This is going to sound absurdly elementary in this company, but is there a standard compliment of parts I would need to source if I bought them individually?
[/QUOTE]
Op take a look at sportsman’s warehouse, you can pick up a tikka brand new for less than $650 or if you want their stainless fluted model it’s around $700.

 

[kyzim311]

AGAIN, Thank you all for your responses! I really do appreciate everyone that has jumped in to help me with this.


I am by no means a Savage expert, but I know enough to be dangerous. generally the 10/110 series is the main Savage action everyone builds on, but the LSS chassis is compatible with the Axis as well. I have pictures below to hopefully help with top vs bottom bolt release on the Savage. Bottom is the standard, top is the better version and easier to use. Bottom is shown first.
View attachment 7498881
View attachment 7498882
The easiest action to build with from a parts perspective is the Remington 700 platform, but it comes with its own set of headaches. Tikka is a nice option as well, as Luke G mentioned, but you will be much more limited on parts compared to the 700 or Savage.

Is there a way to find out which Savage models use top or bottom? It feels like there is no real rhyme or reason as to which is used.


Spending 1300 on a Tikka, 900 on a Bergara, or Savage full rifles just to put the guts into a new chassis, doesn't feel cost effective.
This is going to sound absurdly elementary in this company, but is there a standard compliment of parts I would need to source if I bought them individually?
[/QUOTE]
The higher end use the top bolt release, bottom is standard. There is not great way other than savage's website pictures.

You can definitely buy all the parts and put them together yourself, but it can get complicated. For Savage, Northland Shooters Supply has actions and barrels along with headspace gauges and the tools would would need to put it together. They also have Remington 700 stuff as well, but you can get Remington 700 stuff about anywhere. If you wanted to going Remington, a barrel nut system is the easiest for someone build it at home. The easiest would be a Howa 1500 setup. Brownell's sells barreled actions, just take it and drop it into the chassis of your liking. You can also get into triggers and other things as well, but most actions come with a trigger. This is not the easy road, but you will get everything you want without buying extra parts. In the end I do not know if you will save much money, but you can definitely end up with a better rifle.

 

[Flying Turtle]

Is there a way to find out which Savage models use top or bottom? It feels like there is no real rhyme or reason as to which is used.


Spending 1300 on a Tikka, 900 on a Bergara, or Savage full rifles just to put the guts into a new chassis, doesn't feel cost effective.
This is going to sound absurdly elementary in this company, but is there a standard compliment of parts I would need to source if I bought them individually?

... but you can definitely end up with a better rifle.
[/QUOTE]

At this point, I would be happy with one I can simply fire.

I found the Howa 1500 barreled action in 6.5cm on Brownells. Assuming I went that route, what else would be needed?

 

[kyzim311]

... but you can definitely end up with a better rifle.

At this point, I would be happy with one I can simply fire.

I found the Howa 1500 barreled action in 6.5cm on Brownells. Assuming I went that route, what else would be needed?
[/QUOTE]
Chassis or stock, scope base, scope, and rings. And don't forget ammo. I am not seeing the left handed option for those actions though.

 

[Flying Turtle]

I am not seeing the left handed option for those actions though.

That answers my next question. The action itself will need to be LH there isn't a way to adjust it.

The search continues...

Anyone want to sell a LH Savage 10 BA Stealth?

 

[Txhillbilly]

If you look on Gunbroker, there are several LH rifles in 6.5 CM for sale.

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GunBroker.com - Error

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GunBroker.com - Error

 

[davsco]

albeit somewhat more dough vs savage or tikka etc, check out altusshooting.com and others, and have something put together. based on advice here (also a lefty) i'm getting a krg bravo stock/chassis (pistol grip), proof carbon prefit barrel, and bighorn tl3 action/receiver and triggertech trigger. i think if you ask nice they will put it all together for you as well.

 

[Flying Turtle]

If you look on Gunbroker, there are several LH rifles in 6.5 CM for sale.

Thank you for looking out!
I’m actually one of the bidder’s on the Savage.

The Tikka is out of the price range that I’m comfortable spending on what is, essentially, going to be a hunting rifle. Unfortunately the Bergara doesn’t fit my hand right and the LOP is borderline too short. The issue is the same with the Savage 110, I can’t use a standard hunting stock I need a pistol grip. I don’t think that Savage 110 was there when I looked this morning. It’s still on the high side of what I’d like to spend considering I’d be pulling the guts out to put into a chassis, but yes it would work.

With everything everyone has shared I’ve got a couple directions to go.

albeit somewhat more dough vs savage or tikka etc, check out altusshooting.com and others, and have something put together...i think if you ask nice they will put it all together for you as well.

The MDT LSS XL Gen2 chassis will fit a Ruger American in both .308 and 6.5cm which is the direction I’m leaning. It’s a compromise of custom ergonomics with a factory barreled action. The chassis will take a Savage 10/110 as well in LH so I’ve got some options that route.

I’m not a competitive shooter by any stretch, nor do I have any ambitions. Unless you count competing against 4 legged critters. So going full custom, as Theis pointed out to me, would just be paying for features I’m never going to use, let alone appreciate.

If I can get my hands on a LH Ruger American for under $500 that would be ideal. Then I can get the whole build done for around $1k before optics. I know that a grand is wicked cheap for a rifle amongst this group but for a hunting novice it’s a bit to spend just to get my “beginners” gun.

 

[JMGlasgow]

... but you can definitely end up with a better rifle.

At this point, I would be happy with one I can simply fire.

I found the Howa 1500 barreled action in 6.5cm on Brownells. Assuming I went that route, what else would be needed?
[/QUOTE]
Howa doesn't offer LH actions, neither does Winchester.

 

[BruntBronze]

The cheapest formula for me was a lefty 700 rem action from budsgunshop, a remage barrel from nothland shooters, and a xlr chassis. the 700 rem action is just good enough as is...i had one trued and its not a functioning gun...just use it they way it is.

The remage barrel needs some tools but you eliminate having to go to a smith, paying 300-900 bucks, and wairing 6-18 months.

The chassis will have all your adjustments plus you wont need bottom metal.

I've not found any lefty stocks that had my required features.

Having said that, there should be some lefty 308/65 creedmoors outhere.

 

[Flying Turtle]

Just wanted to say thank you again for all of the help and information. I will post some photos of the finished product once I am able to get everything I need. Everyone here has been great!

 

[Flying Turtle]

Update:
Ordered a .308 Savage 110 Storm in LH from Palmetto State Armory. Should be to the FFL in a couple days. I’ve spoken with the folks over at XLR a few times now, as they have also been incredibly helpful, and will be getting an Element 3.0 chassis for the Savage 110. Their TR2 stock has a 15” max LOP which will fit my specs perfectly.

The only question, now, is to have them Cerakote it or take it somewhere else.... oh and what scope to put on it!

photos will follow once it’s together.

 

[kyzim311]

Scope will depend on how far you are looking to shoot and budget. I am making a couple assumptions based on the rest of this thread that this is a deer hunting rig and you are not looking to spend a ton on a scope. Least expensive will be a 3-9x, then as price goes up you can look at 3-15x or 3-18x ect. You can look for a used scope on here to save some money as well. Give a budget and the guidance will be better. No experience with xlr so I will leave the cerakote question for someone else

 

[LuvDog]

I’m putting together my first lefty rifle... for years I’ve been shooting right handed guns lefty, but finally decided to try A true LH rifle. My Tikka T3x SS Lite should be arriving at my FFL today according to my tracking. I have an XLR in the works from their black Friday sale. I already have a Vortex Gen 2 Razor waiting to be mounted

 

[Flying Turtle]

Scope will depend on how far you are looking to shoot and budget. I am making a couple assumptions based on the rest of this thread that this is a deer hunting rig and you are not looking to spend a ton on a scope.... Give a budget and the guidance will be better.

I was told by more than one person that saving money on the gun is ok but don’t skimp on optics. Granted this isn’t a PRS rig so I’m not looking to spend several thousand on a scope but I’m hoping the $600-$800 range might get the job done.

The cerakote comment was more rhetorical as it’s not really a priority when just getting the thing built has been a pain. LOL

 

[Flying Turtle]

I’m putting together my first lefty rifle... for years I’ve been shooting right handed guns lefty, but finally decided to try A true LH rifle. My Tikka T3x SS Lite should be arriving at my FFL today according to my tracking. I have an XLR in the works from their black Friday sale. I already have a Vortex Gen 2 Razor waiting to be mounted

The Tikka was my next purchase if I hadn’t found the Storm. I was just trying to save where I can, even though I’ll have more spent, after optics, than I thought I would when I started this.

Let me know how it goes getting your T3x into the XLR chassis. I’ve watched several videos and read a bunch of reviews which make it seem almost “too good to be true” which, as a novice, makes me a little concerned.

 

[eastexsteve]

I'm a lefty and I have a Savage 110 left-hand bolt gun with the Accu-stock. If you want to spend more money than that, I think Tikka makes their TAC A1 in left-hand.

 

[BruntBronze]

Im replying to the cerakote question. Some colors just cant be duplicated. Brunt Bronze needs to applicated at the same time to match. the cerakote is included with the XLR element 3.0 price so I would just pick a color and then pick a different color for the action and barrel.

 

[Flying Turtle]

Im replying to the cerakote question. Some colors just cant be duplicated. Brunt Bronze needs to applicated at the same time to match. the cerakote is included with the XLR element 3.0 price so I would just pick a color and then pick a different color for the action and barrel.

On the XLR site, for the Element chassis, it’s a $100 up charge without a buttstock and $175 add on with a stock. Where did you see it included?

There’s a company called Rampart Gunworks in Sanford, FL which is relatively local to me, that does the “robotic” Cerakote. I’ve requested a quote and just waiting to hear back.

 

[Greg Langelius *]

Bring up savagearms.com, and type in "left hand" in their search field. 32 separate selection will come up as a response. It's a pretty good start.

Greg

 

[Flying Turtle]

Bring up savagearms.com, and type in "left hand" in their search field.
Greg

Yes, I had it bookmarked for reference when I was visiting the LGS around town. I have the Savage Storm 110 in .308. I had intended on putting it into an XLR Element Chassis, but their lead time is 10-16 weeks. That put MDT back in the running though, as they have Savage chassis' ready to go. I just need to mount a buttstock that would give me 15" LOP.

XLR advised me that they have a delivery going to Optics Planet, though, that includes 5 Savage chassis within the next week. The XLR Element 3.0 with their TR-2 stock gets me the 15" LOP with their equipment, so I'm kinda waiting to see how quick that comes in.

In the meantime, I'm trying to figure out what to use for optics.

 

[Flying Turtle]

Alrighty, new update. The guys at @XLR Industries / @XLR led me to the promised land! Optics Planet got the XLR Element 3.0 Savage chassis in and I placed the order today!
Ordering an Athlon Ares Gen 2 scope from @gr8fuldoug at Cameraland this week. (Though I still need to decide on what rings to use)

Things are finally getting close and I’m looking forward to sighting it in and firing that first round!

 

[Flying Turtle]

So, I got the scope on yesterday, and started to get placement figured out. I expected that there would be some challenges, and I was not disappointed. LOL

I can’t get my head/neck low enough to use my scope. I’m currently using medium XLR rings, on a 20 moa rail. Now, when I say it’s too short, it’s too short by a good half an inch or more. I also can’t get close enough for the eye relief, and my scope is mounted as far back as it will go.

In trying to figure out a solution, I came across Vortex 2 inch offset one-piece rings that are significantly higher. I know these are generally AR platform equipment. My thought was to mount it backwards to get it closer to my eye, and the height might get me where I need to be.

Could mounting it backwards be a viable option?
Will having the scope mounted that much higher over the barrel create issues going from a 100 yard zero, out to longer distances?
Any other ideas to get the scope up higher that won’t screw things up downrange?

 

[Flying Turtle]

Officially, this is where it stands at the moment. Thank you EVERYONE here on the Hide that has helped me get this far!!!
@XLR / @XLR Industries I'm looking at you guys too! I couldn't have done it without your help!

I can see the finish line!!

 

[davsco]

Will having the scope mounted that much higher over the barrel create issues going from a 100 yard zero, out to longer distances?
Any other ideas to get the scope up higher that won’t screw things up downrange?

just looked at two of my rifles. the scope eyepiece is roughly 2" behind the rear of the bolt, basically above the pistol grip. also your scope is sitting pretty high, lots of space between the objective and your barrel. i'd suggest some lower rings and then adjusting your cheekpiece and length of pull to get you on the scope comfortably with good trigger pull.

 

[Flying Turtle]

just looked at two of my rifles. the scope eyepiece is roughly 2" behind the rear of the bolt, basically above the pistol grip. also your scope is sitting pretty high, lots of space between the objective and your barrel. i'd suggest some lower rings and then adjusting your cheekpiece and length of pull to get you on the scope comfortably with good trigger pull.

That's the issue though, even with as high as the scope is sitting. I have physical range of motion limitations that prevent me from shouldering a rifle normally, which is why I found my way here, with my original post about this build.

To give a better description, as you look at the rifle, when I'm holding it, my cheekbone sits at the back of the comb and my eyes are about 6" from the eyepiece. I can't move my head towards the scope any more because I physically can't bend my elbow any closer.

 

[davsco]

apologies clearly i didn't read the op in depth... hope you can work it out. regarding scope height over bore, as long as you plug that into your ballistics program you shouldn't have any problems.

 

[kyzim311]

So, I got the scope on yesterday, and started to get placement figured out. I expected that there would be some challenges, and I was not disappointed. LOL

I can’t get my head/neck low enough to use my scope. I’m currently using medium XLR rings, on a 20 moa rail. Now, when I say it’s too short, it’s too short by a good half an inch or more. I also can’t get close enough for the eye relief, and my scope is mounted as far back as it will go.

In trying to figure out a solution, I came across Vortex 2 inch offset one-piece rings that are significantly higher. I know these are generally AR platform equipment. My thought was to mount it backwards to get it closer to my eye, and the height might get me where I need to be.

Could mounting it backwards be a viable option?
Will having the scope mounted that much higher over the barrel create issues going from a 100 yard zero, out to longer distances?
Any other ideas to get the scope up higher that won’t screw things up downrange?


View attachment 7538200

Mounting the scope on that mount backwards is a good option to get the scope far enough back and high enough for your needs. The only issue I can possibly see from mounting your scope that high is you could end up with a double zero with a 100 yard sight in. Your ballistics program will compensate for it and you should have no problems shooting longer ranges with it, but you might end up shooting high at 125 or 150 yards with a 100 yard zero. Have the same thing with my 204 ruger ar, not a big deal

 

[Flying Turtle]

end up with a double zero with a 100 yard sight in.

but you might end up shooting high at 125 or 150 yards with a 100 yard zero

I apologize for my ignorance, but I'm not familiar with this.

 

[kyzim311]

I apologize for my ignorance, but I'm not familiar with this.

When you dial up for longer range shooting you are doing this anyhow, but it is not an issue with most centerfire rifles with a 100 yard zero. I have an image below that might help, but I also have the ballistics chart for 6.5 creedmoor 140 grain load from hornady with a 2 inch scope over bore vs 4 inch witha 100 yard zero for each.

 

[Flying Turtle]

Thank you to everyone here at the Hide that provided the information I needed to get this done and finally get it out at the range. Had several compliments about the @XLR Industries chassis. Unfortunately, my groups did not turn as many heads as my rifle. I was making all of the rookie mistakes, which just means "more range time!!"

 

[XLR Industries]

Stoked you were able to get properly fit to the rifle to be able to go shooting! As always if you ever need anything at all don't hesitate to reach out.

 

[Flying Turtle]

Ok, so three trips out and this is where I’m shooting after today. Got the Athlon scope dialed in for 180gr and 150gr .308.
Today I was shooting the 150gr. Now, it’s just practice practice practice.