Building A Remington Model 788

[Der Scharfschütze]

Hey everyone,
I have a Remington Model 788 in .243 caliber. I am wanting to make some modifications to the the weapon, but its hard to find parts, or information about the weapon past the normal statements of "I have killed many of deer with it", "one of Remington's best models", "it will out shoot a model 700 any day". I can personally back up all of these statements.

Now for what I am truly searching for. I am wanting to replace the barrel with a bull-barrel as it is something that I just have a personal love for and have seemed to shoot at farther distances more accurately with. I want to upgrade the trigger, as it is really the only complaint I have about the weapon, because the trigger pull takes quite an excessive amount of pressure to engage the firing mechanism. I would also like to possibly look into replacing the stock as well.

So, if there is anyone out there that can help with places to find parts for this weapon, and can lay down some great advice, please feel free, as anything at this point will be highly appreciated.

 

[jakelly]

700 take off barrels will work for 788s. Be aware that the bolt flexing during recoil can bind the action so the smaller diameter bullets will work better, as there is less weight being pushed forward and therefore less force rearward. Also, choose a cartridge that you don't have to hot rod to get acceptable performance from (243 sounds good if you keep it tame). This bolt flexing and mechanical locking is the reason the 788s have a reputation for bolt handles breaking (my guess). McMillan inlets their stocks for the 788. Trigger can be worked over, but most smiths will tell you it is cheaper to just buy a timney, I've had a couple that were worked over and I recommend the timney as well. Sometimes a set screw through the trigger guard is used to limit over travel on the stock triggers (if you keep it). That cheap beech wood stock is also one of my favorite factory stocks.Most smiths will tell you, "you are throwing away good money" and they're right, but it's your money so do with it as you please. EGW makes a nice 20 MOA rail for it, you'll need the LA for 243 action, the other is for .223 and .222 actions and maybe 22-250, but I'm not sure about that. The 22-250 and 243 magazines are different which is unexpected. The recoil lug is a nice design, but should be precision ground. The tubb 788 recoil lug is for a 700 not a 788 FYI if you're online looking for aftermarket lugs.

If I were you I would have the receiver face squared, the lug ground, the new barrel mounted, and the action bedded before I went and bought a McMillan and a timney. Don't mess with lapping the lugs getting all nine perfect is reportedly impossible. Truing the threads would be recommended as well. The tenon is very long on a 788 and should be very rigid. That's why I would spend my money there first and see if it shoots to your standard. I would also probably keep it a .243 or 6SLR and go with slow powders like 7828ssc and h1000.

Have fun with your build.

 

[nashlaw]

Mr. Kelly, thank your for that post. An education for me. Don't see the 788s like you did in the 80s when people in my area used them for benchrsst builds. Back then, a 788 with a Douglas tube would take home the bacon. Friend of mine that runs a local range has a 788 from waaaaay back that had a .222 very - heavy barrel in a Fajen stock. He had it rebarreled in .223 and it still hammers.

 

[29aholic]

Man I have had a TON of 788's I wish I had back. Use to buy them at wally world when they were $99.00 brand new.

 

[stranded]

Jakekelly, could you explain " Be aware that the bolt flexing during recoil can bind the action so the smaller diameter bullets will work better, as there is less weight being pushed forward and therefore less force rearward. Also, choose a cartridge that you don't have to hot rod to get acceptable performance from (243 sounds good if you keep it tame)." Are you saying the lugs flex and allow excessive brass stretch, or something else?
I have to agree with the .243 idea. Mine I is 22-250 and I regret not having gotten the .243 for 41yrs. Still, it's my favorite for evaporating sparrows. I recently had mine re-barreled with a slightly heavier contour and the heat walking seems to have gone away.


May not be "great advise" but going 1-8 twist opens up bullet choices from 62-105 gr in my experience. I also wondered about the timney trigger but couldn't afford it in high school. Now my misses can't be blamed on trigger weight.

 

[jakelly]

Because there is so much bolt in between the lugs and the boltface that area can compress/bend during recoil. When the bolt flexes the headspace increases, the brass expands to fill the chamber, and when the bolt decompresses the case holds the bolt lugs in a bind against the abutments in the receiver, because the brass is now oversized. Then the shooter tries to hammer open the bolt with a chunk of 2x4 or a deadblow hammer, and the handle breaks off. It is essentially the same effect as a stuck case only longitudinally as opposed to latitudinally. The 788s in .308 by all accounts seem to have the biggest problem with this. Just know that a 788 will not take as much pressure successfully as other bolt actions (700,70, et al).

 

[stranded]

Thanks for the response jakelly, I have experienced this. (not the breaking of the bolt handle) Explains why my brass would only lasts for 4-5 reloads. I have changed my speed because of costs now.

 

[ctharv117]

Hey everyone,
I have a Remington Model 788 in .243 caliber. I am wanting to make some modifications to the the weapon, but its hard to find parts, or information about the weapon past the normal statements of "I have killed many of deer with it", "one of Remington's best models", "it will out shoot a model 700 any day". I can personally back up all of these statements.

Now for what I am truly searching for. I am wanting to replace the barrel with a bull-barrel as it is something that I just have a personal love for and have seemed to shoot at farther distances more accurately with. I want to upgrade the trigger, as it is really the only complaint I have about the weapon, because the trigger pull takes quite an excessive amount of pressure to engage the firing mechanism. I would also like to possibly look into replacing the stock as well.

So, if there is anyone out there that can help with places to find parts for this weapon, and can lay down some great advice, please feel free, as anything at this point will be highly appreciated.

I have built a few 788`s they are a bit of a pain due to a low number of extras out there for them. As for trigger Timney is your best bet but watch them if they are not set right the 788`s are bad for bump firing. When I built this last one I put a Bartlein R5 on it with 1-8 twist and chambered it in 6.5 CM. The test group with factory 140 A Max was in the .200`s at 100 yds. The stocks are the biggest thing to find I could not find one I liked so I ended up hand cutting mine from a blank which came out great if I do say so my self. I would be happy to help you more if you need it just PM me. Good luck with your build.

 

[Der Scharfschütze]

700 take off barrels will work for 788s. Be aware that the bolt flexing during recoil can bind the action so the smaller diameter bullets will work better, as there is less weight being pushed forward and therefore less force rearward. Also, choose a cartridge that you don't have to hot rod to get acceptable performance from (243 sounds good if you keep it tame). This bolt flexing and mechanical locking is the reason the 788s have a reputation for bolt handles breaking (my guess). McMillan inlets their stocks for the 788. Trigger can be worked over, but most smiths will tell you it is cheaper to just buy a timney, I've had a couple that were worked over and I recommend the timney as well. Sometimes a set screw through the trigger guard is used to limit over travel on the stock triggers (if you keep it). That cheap beech wood stock is also one of my favorite factory stocks.Most smiths will tell you, "you are throwing away good money" and they're right, but it's your money so do with it as you please. EGW makes a nice 20 MOA rail for it, you'll need the LA for 243 action, the other is for .223 and .222 actions and maybe 22-250, but I'm not sure about that. The 22-250 and 243 magazines are different which is unexpected. The recoil lug is a nice design, but should be precision ground. The tubb 788 recoil lug is for a 700 not a 788 FYI if you're online looking for aftermarket lugs.

If I were you I would have the receiver face squared, the lug ground, the new barrel mounted, and the action bedded before I went and bought a McMillan and a timney. Don't mess with lapping the lugs getting all nine perfect is reportedly impossible. Truing the threads would be recommended as well. The tenon is very long on a 788 and should be very rigid. That's why I would spend my money there first and see if it shoots to your standard. I would also probably keep it a .243 or 6SLR and go with slow powders like 7828ssc and h1000.

Have fun with your build.

jakelly, thank you for all of your advice. Is getting the recoil lug precision ground, and getting the receiver squared, something that I could ask a gun smith to do?

Do you reload your own ammunition? If so, what seating depths, types and amount of powder, and bullet reloads do you use?

Once again thank you for your input!

 

[Der Scharfschütze]

I have built a few 788`s they are a bit of a pain due to a low number of extras out there for them. As for trigger Timney is your best bet but watch them if they are not set right the 788`s are bad for bump firing. When I built this last one I put a Bartlein R5 on it with 1-8 twist and chambered it in 6.5 CM. The test group with factory 140 A Max was in the .200`s at 100 yds. The stocks are the biggest thing to find I could not find one I liked so I ended up hand cutting mine from a blank which came out great if I do say so my self. I would be happy to help you more if you need it just PM me. Good luck with your build.

C. Harvy, this is the perfect build. That is one beautiful setup! What kind of range have you been most accurate with after modifying your weapon to this level? And I do agree you did a great job on the stock.

As for some of your advice, I noticed that you mentioned taking precautions with installing a Timeny trigger modification, as the gun could easily bump fire if done improperly. Would you have any pointers on things to look out for, or anything that should be done to make sure that it is in fact a proper install, as well how many pounds of pull would you recommend for the trigger set up?

And any advice you may have on reloading ammunition for this weapon as well, just like I asked jakelly, if you do reload your own ammunition, would you have any suggestions for bullet reloads, types of powder and the amount you would recommend, along with seating depths?

Im still really fascinated at how well the stock came out, how hard was it to modify the blank to fit the rifle components?

Thank you so much for your time and help!

 

[jakelly]

jakelly, thank you for all of your advice. Is getting the recoil lug precision ground, and getting the receiver squared, something that I could ask a gun smith to do?

Do you reload your own ammunition? If so, what seating depths, types and amount of powder, and bullet reloads do you use?

Once again thank you for your input!

Yes, talk to your gunsmith that you choose for the rebarrel job about the other work.

I do handload and if you go into the reloading forum, you'll find a series of tutorials outlining some of the practices I use.

In terms of powder for a 243 H4350, H4831sc, IMR7828ssc, and H1000 are the first four I'd try. Amount of powder and seating depth will vary between firearms.