Building up a XCR...

[hyena74]

I've got a XCR compact tactical on the way I plan on using mainly for a hunting rifle, but want to build it up a little without spending an extreme amount of money on it.



What I have so far:
XCR Compact Tactical 308
Seekins low rings
Seekins base
SWFA SS 3-9x42 scope

Im hoping it will be a MOA shooter, and if so, I dont plan on having anything done to the action/barrel.

Things I was looking at changing if it would be worthwhile: opinions wanted...

1. Possibly getting the bolt handle reinforced. Ive seen this done with screws because I've heard of the bolt handles being brazed on and tearing off, then I've heard there isn't a need as it's only been rare and isolated incidents of them tearing off.

2. Maybe putting on an over sized bolt handle knob. I'm still debating on this as it will primarily be a hunting rifle.

3. Is it worth it to have a M-16 style extractor put on? Is there any issues with the factory extractor?

4. Change the trigger to a Timney if it comes with the X-mark trigger. Remington's website says it comes with the X-mark externally adjustable trigger, whereas every other ad I've seen says it comes with the 40-x trigger. So, if it comes with the 40-x trigger, are they the same as the old ones? If so, I've never had one, but heard they are a heck of a trigger. I'm not a fan of the X-mark if that's what it comes with.

5. Whats the scoop on having a side bolt release installed? Is it mainly for convenience, or is the factory bolt stop a weak design? If its just a convenience thing, it isn't an issue for me because I'm not one that will be removing the bolt frequently.

6. Is the factory recoil lug worth changing out to one of the mungo models on a 308? I really dont see the factory lug bending, but it seems like about all the high end rifles have a huge recoil lug.

7. Are the 6-48 base screws strong enough, or should I have them opened up to the 8-40 size?

8. I'm not a huge fan of the late model Remington bottom metal. It feels like cheap pot metal to me, but is there any issues with it breaking easily? If it's plenty strong enough, it might be a plus just to keep the weight down. If its crap, is there any heavy duty bottom metal that will drop in without having the stock inletted?

9. How is the stock? Are they plenty strong...I think its the H-S Precision just like what comes on the LTR but just a different color. Any issues with those stocks such as the swivel studs pulling out, etc?

Like I said, I'd like to fix anything the is a real weak ling, but I don't want to get all crazy with the spending where I would have just been better off buying a GAP etc.

Thanks in advance.

 

[sentry1]

2. Maybe putting on an over sized bolt handle knob. I'm still debating on this as it will primarily be a hunting rifle.

7. Are the 6-48 base screws strong enough, or should I have them opened up to the 8-40 size?

2. I like the oversized bolt knobs better than the smaller classic knob that it originally comes with. I have a Badger knob, but any knob will do as long as it's firmly attached.

7. On a .308, the 6-48 screws are more than strong enough. Keep in mind this is with decent quality screws, not the 20 cent screws you can grab out of a bin at Home Depot. If I had to replace my screws, I'd get some from McMaster-Carr or somewhere like that.

 

[hahco]

if you're gonna be using it as a hunting rifle mainly, I think you're gonna be quite pleased with it as-is. I think you made a good choice on the scope, too. It will probably have the 40-x trigger and you might want to adjust the pull weight down on it from the factory setting. also, not sure if its as big a deal with this model, but on my recent production 700P it needed some sanding/polishing to the magazine and feed ramps. it was scarring up ammo very badly. only seemed half finished from the factory in that respect

 

[RobG]

I had a LTR a while back and it was a shooter. I think it would make a great hunting rifle. I would run Alliant 2000mr with a 175 smk at 2650. Worked great all the way to 1k.

To answer your questions;

1. Heard about it, have never seen it. Have never seen a reinforced bolt handle either.
2. Unnecessary
3. Unnecessary
4. I swapped my X mark out for a Timney. The X mark sucked although many tune them to be acceptable.
5. Unnecessary although a cool to have if you ever do a full custom build up.
6. Do it when you swap barrels, not needed now.
7. Plenty strong. Again, do it when you swap barrels/true action.
8. It is pretty cheesy but it will work fine. Just do not over-torque.
9. I actually really like the HS stock as a hunting style stock. It has an alloy block and is plenty stiff. I did skim bed mine just because. You should have no issue with the studs pulling out.

 

[long range newbie]

Oversized bolt knobs just make it easier to cycle the bolt faster, yet I like them on all my guns if I can since factory knobs are stubby. I reinforced my handle myself just for safety just so I don't go to the range and come back with a 2 piece bolt. I also think hs stocks are tough enough unless your going to use it as a walking stick, and a baseball bat. Bottom metal is easily replaced just order a ptg one. Trigger also a must for a hunting rifle if ever doing any standing shots.

 

[hyena74]

Oversized bolt knobs just make it easier to cycle the bolt faster, yet I like them on all my guns if I can since factory knobs are stubby. I reinforced my handle myself just for safety just so I don't go to the range and come back with a 2 piece bolt. I also think hs stocks are tough enough unless your going to use it as a walking stick, and a baseball bat. Bottom metal is easily replaced just order a ptg one. Trigger also a must for a hunting rifle if ever doing any standing shots.

Is the PTG bottom metal a direct drop in?

 

[long range newbie]

yes but NOT the dbm.