Yeah. Take a shot at a known aim point. Assuming the impact is somewhere on the paper, align the reticle with the original point of aim. Without moving the rifle, adjust the reticle to the point of impact. The point of impact on the second shot should be pretty close to point aim.
- Thread starter Zmu23
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Yeah, I am done with it. But I am disappointed that no one here brought in the Billy Madison scene "I award you no points."
How could anyone miss something so obviously in need?
So, I will do it for myself.
How could anyone miss something so obviously in need?
So, I will do it for myself.
@Zmu23
Do the turrets move up and down/in and out as you adjust them? Im not familiar with the Arken line.
On scopes with turret caps that do not move up and down as they are rotated, you need to loosen the turret caps and set them so they can be rotated further in the direction you need them to go.
For example: If your elevation turret is bottomed out, but you need to keep moving your point of impact down, you'll have to loosen the turret and set the cap to say, 3 mils so it won't bottom out as you are adjusting down. Then reset the turret to zero once you're happy with the adjustment.
Do the turrets move up and down/in and out as you adjust them? Im not familiar with the Arken line.
On scopes with turret caps that do not move up and down as they are rotated, you need to loosen the turret caps and set them so they can be rotated further in the direction you need them to go.
For example: If your elevation turret is bottomed out, but you need to keep moving your point of impact down, you'll have to loosen the turret and set the cap to say, 3 mils so it won't bottom out as you are adjusting down. Then reset the turret to zero once you're happy with the adjustment.
For the love of God, quit with this 25 yard bullshit go buy five dollars worth of poster boards put them at 100 yards and see where the fuck you are. You do not need to start at 25 yards. Quit wasting time and ammo on this 25 yard bullshit. I have seen so many guys waste a $50 box of ammo starting at 25 yards. One dollar poster boards are a lot cheaper than ammo tape four of them together if you have to. Once you see the difference between your point of aim versus your point of impact, you can adjust accordingly it’s not that hard quit making it hard.
I am truly afraid that by reading every post in this thread that I have become dumber for it.
While I always appreciate a good waste of time and shenanigans, this has been nothing but a monkey clusterfuck.
But thanks anyway for all of your contributions. You can pick up your participation awards on your way out.
While I always appreciate a good waste of time and shenanigans, this has been nothing but a monkey clusterfuck.
But thanks anyway for all of your contributions. You can pick up your participation awards on your way out.
If he does not have rounds on paper at 25 yards he should move to 100?
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Dude, get yourself a cardboad box, a big one, like 2 feet wide by 2 feet tall. Set it up at 10 yards if you have to, should be pretty damn hard to miss at that close of a distance. Wherever you hit, crank the turret left 10 mils. Does the second round move left 10 mils? Are you turning the turrets the right way? Is the impact moving the right way? Will 2 bullets go in the same hole or are they a few inches apart like something is loose and falling off? Can you get the windage correct? If you get the windage correct, now move the elevation, same thing, does it move on the turret the same amount as the reticle? If it does then put the bullet an inch low and move back to 25 yards.
A short story about a laser bore sighter.
I bought a SFP Osprey Global scope. Guy threw in a laser that goes in the chamber. I put the scope on and put the laser in. I line it up from my living room to my bedroom wall, probably almost 20 yards. Adjust the shit out of the scope to get the cross hairs lined up. Go to the range with my dad and put up a target at 100. I don't hit it... WTF? Moved to 50, no hits... Move to 25, no hits... WTF!!!??? Walked up to about 10 yards and found I was hitting top right of a 8x11 piece of paper. Adjusted all the way back to the center of the scope to get centered up, then moved back.
Laser bore sighters suck, at least the one I have sucks.
Now when I put a scope on I just start out super close. 1 round will tell you how far off you are. The second round will tell you if your adjustments are moving and if you are going the right way. Get close to the center of the paper up close and THEN move back.
A short story about a laser bore sighter.
I bought a SFP Osprey Global scope. Guy threw in a laser that goes in the chamber. I put the scope on and put the laser in. I line it up from my living room to my bedroom wall, probably almost 20 yards. Adjust the shit out of the scope to get the cross hairs lined up. Go to the range with my dad and put up a target at 100. I don't hit it... WTF? Moved to 50, no hits... Move to 25, no hits... WTF!!!??? Walked up to about 10 yards and found I was hitting top right of a 8x11 piece of paper. Adjusted all the way back to the center of the scope to get centered up, then moved back.
Laser bore sighters suck, at least the one I have sucks.
Now when I put a scope on I just start out super close. 1 round will tell you how far off you are. The second round will tell you if your adjustments are moving and if you are going the right way. Get close to the center of the paper up close and THEN move back.
He should have never started at 25 to begin with. A properly mounted scope should be on paper at 100yds with a 22" x 28" poster board. 4 shots at all 4 corners turns that into a 44" x 56" board. If you can't hit a 44" x 56" target at 100yds something is terribly wrong with your setup.
if you shoot the rifle at a x on a 4x4 box at 25 yards idk how you can miss - find the offsets from x and don't dial anything HOLD the 3 mils wind and 10 elev idk can't remember what was said. now reshoot at 25 yd and see if you hit the x.
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if you can hit the x repeatedly then Id move onto turret adjustments
(where are all the old school iron sight folks bitchin bout how "back in their day...." lol)
if you still can't get near the x then toss the scope off the nearest bridge Vortex don't wanna deal with that ish
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(does parallax go to 25?)
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if you can hit the x repeatedly then Id move onto turret adjustments
(where are all the old school iron sight folks bitchin bout how "back in their day...." lol)
if you still can't get near the x then toss the scope off the nearest bridge Vortex don't wanna deal with that ish
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(does parallax go to 25?)
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I’m not sure if this thread can possibly be of use to the op at this point, due to the remarkable amount of bad advice from so many sources.
But just in case he is still trying to glean something out this,
Do start at 25 or 50 yds, do bore sight by removing your bolt and looking through the barrel. Adjust the scope until they point to the same place. Then fire a shot and confirm. Double check that you are adjusting the the scope in the correct direction.
But just in case he is still trying to glean something out this,
Do start at 25 or 50 yds, do bore sight by removing your bolt and looking through the barrel. Adjust the scope until they point to the same place. Then fire a shot and confirm. Double check that you are adjusting the the scope in the correct direction.
And, to clear the air, let be known that I was the idiot. I had repeated something I read and misunderstood it.
A 20 MOA rail does not require that you zero at 200 yards. You can zero at whatever you want and the cant of the rail gives you back some of the elevation you might use up on a 0 MOA rail. I have had some experience on a 0 MOA rail that I had to dial up some, to get zero. Changing to a 20, 40, whatever, gives you back some of the elevation travel (halfway point between lower stop and upper stop.)
So, yes, my statement was wrong and it was bass-akwards and I am the idiot.
I was trying to help and only put my foot in my mouth. So, I will read and think more and post less.
No hard feelings, not that it matters. And thanks for the good times.
A 20 MOA rail does not require that you zero at 200 yards. You can zero at whatever you want and the cant of the rail gives you back some of the elevation you might use up on a 0 MOA rail. I have had some experience on a 0 MOA rail that I had to dial up some, to get zero. Changing to a 20, 40, whatever, gives you back some of the elevation travel (halfway point between lower stop and upper stop.)
So, yes, my statement was wrong and it was bass-akwards and I am the idiot.
I was trying to help and only put my foot in my mouth. So, I will read and think more and post less.
No hard feelings, not that it matters. And thanks for the good times.
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OP, set the rifle up so that it stand on its own and look from behind above and see if the scope body itself is physically in line with the centerline of the rifle.
My cousin has an axis that is so far out of line he can’t zero either. It’s maxed out also and still 3” right at 100 and it’s externally visible why. Really poor execution by savage.
My cousin has an axis that is so far out of line he can’t zero either. It’s maxed out also and still 3” right at 100 and it’s externally visible why. Really poor execution by savage.
Won't speak for anyone else, but I'll remember what you're saying here long after I forget about whatever advice you had previously given.
None of us are perfect, least of all me.
As I have learned from others, including my mother, own up to my mistakes and try not to make them, again.
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25 no zero, went to 50 no zero, went to 100 no zero. If anything. You are consistent.
This thread reminds me of the rifle range one week before deer rifle season opens.
So....you have no younger siblings. That's what you are saying?
Now you’ve lost me. The OP didn’t say anything about shooting 300 win mag out of a 300 weatherby.
I have a brother who is 2 years younger than I am and smarter than I am, way more talented. And yes, he also learned from my mistakes, so he did not get in all the trouble I had.
I am the only hell my mother ever raised.
And yes, I get it, my mother having more children would be a mistake on her part.
Full disclosure, I am a mama's boy.
All of my rifles have 20 moa scope rails. All of my rifles are zeroed at 100 yards.
Awesome. I have a 20 MOA rail I plan to put on one of my rifles.
Most of the 22s used in the PRS22 matches have at least 30 mos rails and are typically zeroed at 50 yards.
According to www.iAsk.ai Ask Ai Search Engine:
Authoritative Reference Titles:
Possible Reasons for Unable to Zero Your Riflescope
There could be several reasons for being unable to zero your riflescope. Here are some potential causes, along with their possible solutions:- Incorrect Scope Mounting: Incorrect scope mounting can lead to misalignment, which can cause difficulty in zeroing your riflescope. Ensure that your scope is mounted correctly on your rifle, with the rings properly tightened and leveled.
- Incorrect Reticle Position: Reticle position is crucial for zeroing. If your reticle is not at the first or second focal plane, it might be difficult to zero the scope accurately. Check the scope’s manual to confirm the reticle position and make any necessary adjustments.
- Inaccurate Shooting Distance: Zeroing a riflescope requires accurate measurements of the shooting distance. If you are using an estimated distance or a different distance than the actual one, your scope might not be zeroed correctly. Always measure the distance to the target accurately before attempting to zero your scope.
- User Error: If you are not familiar with the scope’s adjustment system, it might be challenging to zero it correctly. Make sure to read the scope’s manual thoroughly and practice adjusting the scope’s turrets before attempting to zero it.
- Faulty Scope: In some cases, the riflescope itself might be defective or damaged, causing difficulties in zeroing. If you have tried all other possible solutions and still cannot zero your scope, it might be necessary to consult a professional or contact the manufacturer for assistance.
- Environmental Factors: Temperature, humidity, and atmospheric pressure can affect the trajectory of your bullets. If you are zeroing your scope in a different environment than where you will be shooting, it might not hold its zero accurately. Make sure to adjust for these factors when attempting to zero your riflescope.
Authoritative Reference Titles:
- “How to Sight in a Rifle Scope: A Comprehensive Guide” by John Walter Sharp, published by Skyhorse Publishing.
- This book provides a detailed guide on zeroing a riflescope, including various techniques, adjustments, and troubleshooting tips.
- “Modern Rifleman’s Guide to Ballistics and Shooting” by John Walter Sharp, published by Skyhorse Publishing.
- This book covers essential topics related to ballistics, shooting, and scope zeroing, helping readers to better understand and improve their accuracy.
- “The Accurate Rifle: A Comprehensive Guide to Shooting and Sighting Techniques” by John Walter Sharp, published by Skyhorse Publishing.
- This book delves into the topic of rifle accuracy, providing tips and advice on how to achieve the best possible results when zeroing a riflescope.
According to www.iAsk.ai Ask Ai Search Engine:
Possible Reasons for Unable to Zero Your Riflescope
There could be several reasons for being unable to zero your riflescope. Here are some potential causes, along with their possible solutions:
In conclusion, it is essential to ensure proper scope mounting, reticle position, and accurate shooting distance, as well as understanding the scope’s adjustment system and considering environmental factors. If these steps do not resolve the issue, it might be necessary to consult a professional or contact the scope’s manufacturer for assistance.
- Incorrect Scope Mounting: Incorrect scope mounting can lead to misalignment, which can cause difficulty in zeroing your riflescope. Ensure that your scope is mounted correctly on your rifle, with the rings properly tightened and leveled.
- Incorrect Reticle Position: Reticle position is crucial for zeroing. If your reticle is not at the first or second focal plane, it might be difficult to zero the scope accurately. Check the scope’s manual to confirm the reticle position and make any necessary adjustments.
- Inaccurate Shooting Distance: Zeroing a riflescope requires accurate measurements of the shooting distance. If you are using an estimated distance or a different distance than the actual one, your scope might not be zeroed correctly. Always measure the distance to the target accurately before attempting to zero your scope.
- User Error: If you are not familiar with the scope’s adjustment system, it might be challenging to zero it correctly. Make sure to read the scope’s manual thoroughly and practice adjusting the scope’s turrets before attempting to zero it.
- Faulty Scope: In some cases, the riflescope itself might be defective or damaged, causing difficulties in zeroing. If you have tried all other possible solutions and still cannot zero your scope, it might be necessary to consult a professional or contact the manufacturer for assistance.
- Environmental Factors: Temperature, humidity, and atmospheric pressure can affect the trajectory of your bullets. If you are zeroing your scope in a different environment than where you will be shooting, it might not hold its zero accurately. Make sure to adjust for these factors when attempting to zero your riflescope.
Authoritative Reference Titles:
- “How to Sight in a Rifle Scope: A Comprehensive Guide” by John Walter Sharp, published by Skyhorse Publishing.
- This book provides a detailed guide on zeroing a riflescope, including various techniques, adjustments, and troubleshooting tips.
- “Modern Rifleman’s Guide to Ballistics and Shooting” by John Walter Sharp, published by Skyhorse Publishing.
- This book covers essential topics related to ballistics, shooting, and scope zeroing, helping readers to better understand and improve their accuracy.
- “The Accurate Rifle: A Comprehensive Guide to Shooting and Sighting Techniques” by John Walter Sharp, published by Skyhorse Publishing.
- This book delves into the topic of rifle accuracy, providing tips and advice on how to achieve the best possible results when zeroing a riflescope.
I'll take door number 4
Here is the problem...the scope is of the 7th order focal plane so it's going to be several magnitudes of difficulty harder to zero.
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