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Can anyone tell me what is the easiest setup ...

lostangel

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Mar 24, 2010
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El Campo, TX
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Can anyone tell me what is the easiest setup to use.
I have the books, etc but have never tried to reload.
With ammo sky high and getting worse, I can hardly justify the cost of a weekend at the range.

For someone who has never done this, what is the best setup? Mostly 308 and 223, with eventually 9mm and 45acp to follow.

Money tree is wilting, but not dead, yet...

Simple and foolproof is better than fast and mass produced. If that makes any sense.

Patrick
 
Re: Can anyone tell me what is the easiest setup ...

You can get a basic RCBS RockChucker for $136 at Midway. This is the press alone. RCBS standard dies for less than $30. Lyman scale for $59. RCBS Uniflow powder measure is decent for the money at $69. The LEE is rough and not too repeatable. I do however, prefer the LEE auto-prime hand priming tool.

That has you set for everything but consumables like bullets, powder and primers. If you follow the basic instrustions that come with the dies and use the Lyman's Centerfire Handloading Manual you can probably get at least 5 load cycles on the cases you now have. As you study and learn new ideas and tricks of the "trade" you can get many more on good brass.

Good luck.
 
Re: Can anyone tell me what is the easiest setup ...

Don't forget a decent set of calipers! You don't need a big dollar dial/digital caliper. Mid range work just fine.
 
Re: Can anyone tell me what is the easiest setup ...

you should get a chrono, otherwise you are guessing the velocity..

midway has the F-1 for under 100 bucks.
 
Re: Can anyone tell me what is the easiest setup ...

If you can swing it and you really want to know what is coming out of your barrel do it. But not necessary. Just follow what your reloading manual recommends for load data and you will be fine. The load data/fps that the manuals publish are usually pretty close to actual.
 
Re: Can anyone tell me what is the easiest setup ...

Personally I'd skip the chory for a while. Worry about accuracy not speed.

Yeah they are handier then heck, but distracting at first.

Get the (reloading) basics down first, work on safely working up accurate loads, then move forward from there.
 
Re: Can anyone tell me what is the easiest setup ...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ES45acp</div><div class="ubbcode-body">you should get a chrono, otherwise you are guessing the velocity..

midway has the F-1 for under 100 bucks. </div></div>

This is another case of you get what you pay for. I've had 2 with the name brand of Shooting Chrony. If you want to go crazy chasing numbers buy this brand. If you want a decent repeatable one, buy another brand.

I loaded and shot for over 25 years without one. And I did just fine. I bought the PACT I now have in the early 1990s. I'll be soon replacing it with a new one. Probably a CED M2.

For now leave it off. Until you learn a lot of stuff about it. Just watch for pressure signs and the targets. That's where it counts.
 
Re: Can anyone tell me what is the easiest setup ...

When I started hand-loading nearly 20 years ago I bought a Lyman T-Mag turret press and starter kit. If I were to buy every thing over again this is my list.

#1 A quality press; this could be Lyman, Redding, RCBS or Hornady. I have five different ones for different uses/purposes and include a Lyman T-Mag, Redding big boss II, Dillon 550 progressive, RCBS partner and a Lee cheapo C press.

#2 A powder scale. I have used a balance beam but now use a digital PACT and would advise getting a quality digital scale (there are many but I am happy with the pact)

#3 A deburring tool. I use a VLD style tool for the inside and a lee universal for the out side (helpful hint: if you should ever decide to get a WSM or ultra mag don’t get a Lee, its not big enough to fit over the shoulder and yet reach the outside edge of the neck.

#4 A hand primer and shell holder, lee works well for me but again there or others to choose from.

#5 A shell trimmer, I used a Lyman for years until I got into precision reloading and realized that the Lyman was not trimming things 100% square now I use a Wilson on a Sinclair stand that takes separate shell holders for each caliber but it trims square and well worth it. Plus the Wilson is cheap.

#6 A primer pocket uniformer, this is one of those things that are not necessary but I choose to do. I can’t say it makes a difference but I feel better about the quality of my brass after I do it. I use a Foster that comes on a little stand and works quickly. If you choose to do this don’t get one that you have to hold in your hand… trust me….

#7 Flash hole reamer, again this is one of those things that is not necessary but I choose to do. I can’t say it makes a difference but I feel better about the quality of my brass after I do it. Do both sides, inside the case and outside, I use a Lyman hand tool.

#8 A shell holder for your press, some die sets come with these, others don’t.

#9 dies specific to your cartridge caliber. I have used many different brands but my favorite is Redding full length sizing die and Redding competition bullet seating die. If you want to neck size your brass rather than full length size go with Lee’s collet neck sizer die, if you go this route you will need a body sizing die at some point.

#10 A caliper

#11 Over all length gage, and comparator attachments. I use the Hornady (formerly stoney point) this measures the length of the cartridge to the lands in your barrel and is specific to each bullet style and weight you shoot.

#12 A head space gage. I use the Hornady (formerly stoney point) gage that works with the attachment on #11. You can go with a stand alone die but I like the ability to match my chamber.

#13 Imperial sizing wax, some prefer to use spray on lube but I no longer do for any precision hand-loading. I may use spray on if I loading a large supply of brass for plinking/blasting ammo and not as concerned with precision…

#14 Depending on how you decide to measure your powder you may need a powder measure and tickler or Lee dipper cups and a tickler. Because I load such a larger verity of different stuff I have them all.

#15 Brass tumbler and media to clean your brass.

I think that about covers what I would get if starting over. As you progress in your skills you may want to get a concentricity/run-out gage and neck thickness gage as well as a neck turner but in a factory barrel/chamber neck turning is not really needed, unless you are using a Redding bushing sizing die. But I have found that it is a task (neck turning) I would rather not start. Last bit of advice on that… buy the best quality brass (Lapua or Norma) and neck turning will not be much of an issue to begin with… I not saying Federal Match, Remington, Winchester or Hornady brass is bad, it’s just not as uniform as Lapua and/or Norma tends to be.
A book I'd like to add to anyone wishing to improve their hand-loading skills is Glen Zediker's book "Handloading for Competition". It is not just for competition shooters but anyone wishing to see improvement in their hand-loading skill level.
 
Re: Can anyone tell me what is the easiest setup ...

I've been reloading along time and have quite a pile of different model presses, dies, scales, etc. But, what I use and prefer IS NOT what I would suggest for any newbie, just because I like it doesn't make it essential - or even helpful - for anyone else!

Keep your first choices basic and inexpensive; that's easiest. Actually, what many call "good enough for beginners" is good enough for anyone UNLESS they have legitimate reasons for wanting the features offered by another brand or model. No one wears out a press or dies, etc. so claims of brand longivity aside, it's all fine stuff. (Some folks can't use pliers effectively because they have too many moving parts but that's not the plier's fault.)

Consider a Lee Classic Cast (all steel) press. VERY STRONG, very durable, handles spent primers better than most, very good ergonomics.

Lee rifle dies are good too. All but the RGB sets include a shell holder you would pay extra for with the other brands. Lyman and Redding pistol dies are great due to their unique case expander/belling design.

A good beam scale is much easier to use, is less costly and lasts much longer than any digital. The current RCBS 505 and Redding scales are perhaps the best values being sold.

You will need an adjustable powder measure (often incorrectly called a "powder dump") and a bench stand for it. Lee's little "Perfect" powder measure isn't perfect but it's very good, perhaps the very best at metering coarse rifle powders. No measure is totally consistant so you will need a good powder "trickler" to bring charges up for precision rifle charges, Redding makes the best tricklers available.

You will need a plastic powder funnel to help you pour the charges into the cases, also need a couple of plastic loading blocks to hold cases while you process them. Brand/price doesn't matter at all.

Rifle cases tend to stretch so it's good to have a way to keep them safely short. Fancy adjustable hand or power turned trimmers are neat but not needed because Lee's case trimmer tools do a fine job accurately, fast, inexpensively. You will need a case mouth chamfer/debur tool after cases are trimmed, any such tool will do great. And using Lee's case trimmer means you really won't NEED a precision caliper either, just use a factory cartridge or the bullet's cannalure groove to set your seating die for OAL.

Case resizing lube is absolutely necessary. All of the commercial types work good but Imperial sizing wax, or Lee's, applied with the finger tips is about as easy and effective as it gets.

I think the loader's first manual is the most critical item on his list. The Lee Manual is inexpensive but has great instructions for the basic reloading steps and it includes a LOT of loading data.

You don't <span style="font-style: italic">NEED</span> a dial caliper, chronograph, neck sizers, competition seating dies or case tumbler to make good shooting ammo. But, they are nice to have. Maybe later?

<span style="font-weight: bold">ADDENDUM: </span> As Steve suggests (below), even for "keep it simple/easy" reloading, an inertia bullet puller and a <span style="text-decoration: underline">stuck case remover</span> are very nice tools to have.

I don't suggest kits to beginners simply because they are always incomplete and, of what they do have, never include what I believe are the best tool choices across the board for anyone. Fact is, NO one brand has a total lock on the better tool designs. The best reloaders always have a variaty of brands on their bench.
 
Re: Can anyone tell me what is the easiest setup ...

Get the following, maybe even in this order

1) Reloading Manual - read the crap out of it
2) Reloading Kit - RCBS rockchucker supreme is nice... and comes with a manual
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3) Dies... Depending on what you want to get out of reloading determines the dies you will purchase. Reloading for economy, simple RCBS dies will suffice. If your reloading for supreme accuracy and ease of customisation, perhaps Redding competition dies are more down ur alley.
4) Case trimmer
5) Case cleaner - Ultrasonic


That will get you by

If you want to then reload for greater accuracy you should invest in a chronograph (allowing you to use ballistic software
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), some digital calipers and some headspace and OAL guages.

Fuzzball gives some good advice.

Safety is the most important aspect, so make sure your reading the manuals and understanding what you are doing
 
Re: Can anyone tell me what is the easiest setup ...

Lostangel,

For the beginning reloader.

Some tips!

Don't forget to get a inertia bullet puller.They are cheap and handy.

A stuck case remover is a must too.A case will get stuck in the size die at the worst possible time.Murphy's law ?!?!?
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The micrometer top bullet seating dies are way worth the extra money.It's not a bad idea to get a extra stem and primer punch pins in case you get a Berdan primed case mixed in by accident.

For small quantities of rifle reloading I started using die wax.That new Hornady die wax is slicker than the other stuff and it comes in a bigger tin.Keep it off the shoulder of the case.

For rifle...Buy brass of the same lot number.Mixed headstamp brass is for cheap blasting ammo not precision.

Those caliber specific powder funnels from Saturn Machine are nice because they fit over the neck of the case and won't fall off.I wish I'd had them many years ago.

Steve