Gunsmithing Cerakote paint strainer
- Thread starter BE5810
- Start date
I think it is a must.
But then it also depends on your individual levels of acceptable quality.
Lots of solids have to stay suspended in the mixed product while applying. As your supply gets older and or you do not agitate properly, some of those solids will clump. Guaranteed to cause less than acceptable spray pattern consistency and visible issues with the coated part.
Some colors seem to have finer solids that stay mixed/suspended better than other colors but all can cause an issue if certain conditions exist.
The strainer is just good insurance that only the "good" product is making its way to your spray gun.
#150 mesh for H-Series and #300 for Elite Series.
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But then it also depends on your individual levels of acceptable quality.
Lots of solids have to stay suspended in the mixed product while applying. As your supply gets older and or you do not agitate properly, some of those solids will clump. Guaranteed to cause less than acceptable spray pattern consistency and visible issues with the coated part.
Some colors seem to have finer solids that stay mixed/suspended better than other colors but all can cause an issue if certain conditions exist.
The strainer is just good insurance that only the "good" product is making its way to your spray gun.
#150 mesh for H-Series and #300 for Elite Series.
./
If you are in a real bind, you can go to Lowes or Home Depot paint departments and purchase their generic paper cone screen strainers or better yet go to any auto paint supply store. Most of those usually have disposable/1 time use strainers and maybe even different screen densities.
Good luck.
They are pricey but if you are going to be doing this on a regular basis, look hard at the "in cup" stainer filter thingy that CeraKote has for sale on their site. They are reusable forever if you clean them properly and promptly.
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@Terry Cross hit the nail on the head.
The strainers are critical once your cerakote gets a little old. I've made the mistake of not straining, and spent most of my time trying to clear clogs in a 200$ airbrush.
Using the cheapo paper strainers from a local paint store and even a 5 year old bottle of tungsten sprays like a champ. I just finished up that old bottle after milling an RMR cut and front serrations on a Glock 23.
The strainers are critical once your cerakote gets a little old. I've made the mistake of not straining, and spent most of my time trying to clear clogs in a 200$ airbrush.
Using the cheapo paper strainers from a local paint store and even a 5 year old bottle of tungsten sprays like a champ. I just finished up that old bottle after milling an RMR cut and front serrations on a Glock 23.
Looks great! What color is that? Burnt bronze? Thanks@Terry Cross hit the nail on the head.
The strainers are critical once your cerakote gets a little old. I've made the mistake of not straining, and spent most of my time trying to clear clogs in a 200$ airbrush.
Using the cheapo paper strainers from a local paint store and even a 5 year old bottle of tungsten sprays like a champ. I just finished up that old bottle after milling an RMR cut and front serrations on a Glock 23.
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It's Tungsten. The camera flash makes it appear a little different.
Order right from Cerakote, I'm an applicator and there customer service is "top shelf". If cost is that big of deal? well govern yourself accordingly.
I bought the strainer that fits in the cup from Cerakote, it works but it takes longer to clean it properly than it does to spray the job. That was 150 micron, I tried 190 micron automotive paint 1 time strainers. I haven't looked back, absolutely no particles coming thru and clean up is now a breeze. If you use an in cup strainer, clean it as soon as the paint is in the cup before spraying. It will make your life easier. Auto strainers are all I use now and the finishes are very good.
Same here. I use the same strainers for Cerakote that I use for my PPG paints. Works quite well. 20$ for a pack of 100 strainers.
I take it you guys are using C series with using 150/190 Micron, 100/80 mesh filters not H series.
No, I'm using them on H series. Works great with 190 micron.
In addition to the strainer, I highly recommend the spray gun that Cerakote sells (“Iwata” ? Im away from home....). It’s the cats ass. Cry once.
Been using these for the last 5 years, a whopping $.10 each... screw cleaning out "strainers". More like 70 mesh than the 100 recommended, but I haven't had any issues with them.
The Elite needs much finer- I found some shit that's used for filtering cannabis oils or something that had a mesh fine enough
The Elite needs much finer- I found some shit that's used for filtering cannabis oils or something that had a mesh fine enough
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I get mine from O'Reilly auto parts store. Disposable filters. If you can't get the ones from cerakote. They are 100's mesh size
Something to consider.
I did purchase the 150 micron in-cup strainer/filter from CeraKote several years ago. I did purchase their 300 micron for the Elite Series a couple of years ago. I keep a trigger type spray bottle of Acetone at the coating booth and just as soon as I pour the mixed product into the cup of the IWATA, I spray down the screen. This gets it 99% clean. I then lay it in a stainless pan with more acetone and just as soon as I complete my coating, I break the sprayer down into the same pan and clean it while the coated parts are getting their recommended 30 minutes prior to heating. Overall I find the re-usable in-cup screens effective and I maybe spend an extra 60 to 120 seconds cleaning them along with IWATA parts each use. Besides an extra minute of labor, I am out a little acetone from the spray bottle too.
Cleaning and re-using the CeraKote filters do not have to be a big deal.
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I did purchase the 150 micron in-cup strainer/filter from CeraKote several years ago. I did purchase their 300 micron for the Elite Series a couple of years ago. I keep a trigger type spray bottle of Acetone at the coating booth and just as soon as I pour the mixed product into the cup of the IWATA, I spray down the screen. This gets it 99% clean. I then lay it in a stainless pan with more acetone and just as soon as I complete my coating, I break the sprayer down into the same pan and clean it while the coated parts are getting their recommended 30 minutes prior to heating. Overall I find the re-usable in-cup screens effective and I maybe spend an extra 60 to 120 seconds cleaning them along with IWATA parts each use. Besides an extra minute of labor, I am out a little acetone from the spray bottle too.
Cleaning and re-using the CeraKote filters do not have to be a big deal.
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Yes, As soon as it goes thru the strainer it needs to be cleaned. My 190 micron filters cost less that 50 cents ea. My time is worth more than than. cerakote is now shipping 190 micron disposable filers with an order. Acetone is now $20 a gallon.
It's worth the trouble to run Cerakote through a strainer to avoid fighting problems in the gun. Cerakote has recommendations on what mesh should be used. Mesh size does differ across their products.
I've been shooting this stuff for quite a few years now and have always used the strainers that they sell. Even though I clean immediately after use, I have noticed a little build-up over time. This is easily remove by soaking the mesh in brake cleaner for a while. Strainers look like new after doing this.
I've been shooting this stuff for quite a few years now and have always used the strainers that they sell. Even though I clean immediately after use, I have noticed a little build-up over time. This is easily remove by soaking the mesh in brake cleaner for a while. Strainers look like new after doing this.
Hi, You said you soak the filters in Brake cleaner, I have never tried that Acetone does not seem to work that well.
Have you seen this or do you not clean up with Acetone?
Thanks
I do clean with acetone after use. However, over many uses the mesh gets a bit of buildup of material anyway. Soaking in brake cleaner takes care of this problem. I suppose one could spray the strainers with brake cleaner immediately after use (thereby avoiding the soaking later) but I would rather avoid the mess of that practice.
Thanks I'll give it a try tomorrow
If anyone wants a in the cup (mini) strainer 150 micron from cerakote, $20 shipped . PM me. I realize it's not a classified but someone watching this thread might need 1.
what do you charge for the milling and refinish?@Terry Cross hit the nail on the head.
The strainers are critical once your cerakote gets a little old. I've made the mistake of not straining, and spent most of my time trying to clear clogs in a 200$ airbrush.
Using the cheapo paper strainers from a local paint store and even a 5 year old bottle of tungsten sprays like a champ. I just finished up that old bottle after milling an RMR cut and front serrations on a Glock 23.
Rattle cans are not good- you have a hard Cerakote and a chemical resistant cerakote....
The reason why you cerakote and not rattle can is for durability...
Hoppies and powder blaster ruin rattle can paints....
I don't do gun work for profit any more. After moving to WA state, I decided that the states laws are more pain in the ass than it's worth. I let my FFL and SOT expire, and stopped renewing my state firearms dealer license.
The last couple years, I just make random shit for my own amusement. Like the magnetic cheek-rest I posted in the DIY forum, the bigass smoker in the bear pit, or my stupidly overbuilt hog saddle. I occasionally help out friends and coworkers, trade machine time or CAD CAM work for a bottle of Macallan.
I'll start things back up once I retire from my day job and move to a free state.
