Gunsmithing Cerakote Question

[MA66OT]

Hello, I am currently building a rifle and i plan on cerakoting it tomorrow. I have all the equipment and i already cerakoted the stock. My question is what cant i coat with the cerakote? I plan on doing the action inside and out, the outside of the barrel and the bolt. I already blasted the rifle and its prepped. Can i cerakote the bolt face, i blasted it will very fine glass. Do you coat the recoil lug also. Thanks guys!

 

[Ranger70]

Re: Cerakote Question

I had 2 1911s done, and Todd did all the parts. It took all the slop out of the pistols, they had 30,000&50,000 rounds down the tubes. Jim

 

[Mgordon]

Re: Cerakote Question

I use to tape off the bolt face and the back of the lugs, but anymore I just paint everything. Cerakote is pretty tough, but it will rub off on the high wear areas such as the bolt body, bolt lugs and possibly the bolt face.

Make sure you either re-sand blast before you paint or do an excellent job of degreasing.

I would just sand blast again lightly, that is what Cerakote recommends.

Mark

 

[biglou13]

Re: Cerakote Question

i'm told cerakote is more diffcult/finicky to spray. how do you all make it work

 

[DAVETOOLEY]

Re: Cerakote Question

Cerakote is actually pretty easy. Degrease, degrease,blast,blow off, spray, bake. Taking care not to touch it with your bare hands.

 

[STR]

Re: Cerakote Question

NIC procedures are to blast all surfaces to be coated with 120 grit aluminum oxide. You can coat it all , and as mentioned before it will rub off any where there is metal to metal contact. Don't coat the the bolt nose and lug area to heavy, and the initial wearing in will be minimal. The mixing, and spraying is like any other product, just follow the directions. Don't know what type stock you have, but if it is fiberglass and you plan to bake it be carefull as sometimes these high quality stocks have air pockets you can't see and might expand when heated. NIC make an auto motive type paint that requires no heating for stock painting. Hope everthing turns out great.

 

[MA66OT]

Re: Cerakote Question

Thanks for the input! I have HS precision stock and i already coated it, it came out nice. i have the air cure stuff so i don't have to worry about baking.

 

[locked&loaded]

Re: Cerakote Question

You mentioned blasting with glass. I use 120# alu. Ox. NIC recommends this as well. The glass tends to polish the surface a bit. Don't know if the alu.ox. Is an option for you. Metal prep is the key to a lasting finish.

 

[Keith Johns]

Re: Cerakote Question

We do not coat the face, or rear of lugs.
The Cerakote should be .001" thick. Putting that or even half that on the lugs and/or face can tighten up rounds in the chamber because of headspace. If you coat the face, and rear of lugs, on an already tight chamber, it will be tight until you rub it off.
Not to mention that when you sand blast, you'd better have every hole on the bolt head pluged/covered. Covering the head with tape like we do ensures no blasting media will enter. And you have to cut the tape and lay it out well. Cant just wrap tape around it. Blasting media WILL ENTER EVERYTHING IT CAN

We plug the rear of the bolt with a dowel threaded 1/2x13


Do not get sand in the bolt. It will take you an hour to get *most* of it out. Good luck getting every last micron out

 

[SHANE0472]

Re: Cerakote Question

You can coat the whole bolt. If you spray it right it should be very thin as stated above. You would have to have an extremely tight chamber to begin with for the coating to make any difference. IMHO
Make sure you thoroughly degrease everything, it will help in getting the blasting media all out when your done.