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Gunsmithing Cerakote vs DuraCoat

Re: Cerakote vs DuraCoat

Teflon would make for a self lubricating coating and can also have good impact resistance. But I don't know about holding up to temperature. He may have some that do well at temp. For sliding parts teflon based products are great. And yes like the non stick stuff in your frying pan. That's not entirely teflon, it has teflon ingredients, so if its not good quality stuff it can flake. That's not the teflon part.

I wonder if Birdsong doesn't have some part of teflon in it. I assume that it does but we'll never find out.
 
Re: Cerakote vs DuraCoat

At 16.95 per 4 oz. that comes out to $540.00 per gallon. No paint in the world is worth that much money. I've been shooting auto paint for 30 years and the most expenisive paint in the world is about $200 per gallon.

I'll search for flat auto paint before I buy any of that stuff. Urethane is plenty durable for just about anything.
 
Re: Cerakote vs DuraCoat

Turned this up on an internet search:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/QT-HOT-RO...=item2c5b87722a

That's 1.5 quarts for $45. It comes in tan, earth, flat black, OD green and another green. Granted, not the color selection of Lauer or CeraKote, but for a few hundred dollars you get about 3 lifetime supplies if all you are painting is firearms.

Camo stencils available at Brownells.

You could probably go in with a couple buddies and each pay $100 for more paint than you'll ever need.

For me, I'd nix the airbrush. I have an Iwata. Nice brush...but it's high pressure. I'd dial the pattern way down on a conventional gravity feed gun and you'll do just as well and save a lot of paint. Lot's of overspray with that little Iwata.
 
Re: Cerakote vs DuraCoat

If you are looking for a substitute for Duracoat look at Nason Fullthane P. You'll find similarities in the ingredients. I've heard htat Duracoat is also very similar to Sherwin Williams industrial paints but I've not looked into it myself.

I guess any flat or super flat industrial paint would stand up to what we do if it can take some heat.
 
Re: Cerakote vs DuraCoat

Just remember to wear a good Organic Vapor respirator if you are using a hardner. Solvents aren't going to kill you...hardner might.
 
Re: Cerakote vs DuraCoat

Here is a link to the results of a triple blind study on three different coatings. C1 is Duracoat and C2 is KG.
http://phantomfinishing.com/datasheet.html
There is no chemical that I am aware of that will effect properly cured cerakote. With Duracoated items that I need to strip, I just drop it in a bucket of brake clean for a couple of minutes and wipe it off.
 
Re: Cerakote vs DuraCoat

Interesting. I realize all this was done to show how durable the coating was, but did he really have to bounce that barrelled action off a fence post? Donate it to the poor, like me;)
 
Re: Cerakote vs DuraCoat

Anything other than Cerakote is just a small step above Krylon and not worth the extra trouble over Krylon, IMO.

You can soak Cerakote in acetone for a week and there is no change or damage.

It's got to be applied and cured just right, though. It's not forgiving at all.
 
Re: Cerakote vs DuraCoat

Frank did you have to give that parting blow at the end. It just wasnt right....
smile.gif
 
Re: Cerakote vs DuraCoat

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wnroscoe</div><div class="ubbcode-body">#1. Cerakote
#2. KG Gun Kote
#3. Polane T / Duracoat
#4. Krylon </div></div>

Are you saying Polane T and Duracoat are the same thing or equal to each other?
 
Re: Cerakote vs DuraCoat

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: FromMyColdDeadHa</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Are you saying Polane T and Duracoat are the same thing or equal to each other? </div></div>

Same/Same
 
Re: Cerakote vs DuraCoat

How careful do you have to be when applying any of these coatings to moving parts or parts that encounter friction? I've heard Cerakote is a little thinner than Duracoat so maybe the margin for error is larger.

I always thought that if you sprayed your bolt/chamber/trigger/etc then you would change the tolerances and it wouldn't function properly.

I even read a DIY article (ar15.com maybe?) where a guy left an AR 15 completely assembled, closed the dust cover, deployed the bipod and sprayed the entire rifle. Wouldn't this cause the mag release buttons, bolt release, trigger, etc to gunk up and/or stick?
 
Re: Cerakote vs DuraCoat

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">...left an AR 15 completely assembled, closed the dust cover, deployed the bipod and sprayed the entire rifle. </div></div>

Yikes! And I thought I was a hack!
shocked.gif
 
Re: Cerakote vs DuraCoat

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: THEBEARRRRRRJEW</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How careful do you have to be when applying any of these coatings to moving parts or parts that encounter friction? I've heard Cerakote is a little thinner than Duracoat so maybe the margin for error is larger.

I always thought that if you sprayed your bolt/chamber/trigger/etc then you would change the tolerances and it wouldn't function properly.

I even read a DIY article (ar15.com maybe?) where a guy left an AR 15 completely assembled, closed the dust cover, deployed the bipod and sprayed the entire rifle. Wouldn't this cause the mag release buttons, bolt release, trigger, etc to gunk up and/or stick? </div></div>
The correct way to apply the coating is to completely disassemble the firearm and prep for coating. Do not coat the springs or expose them to prolonged heat, i.e., set them aside. You cannot properly prep a firearm for coating leaving it assembled. Every piece being coated must be soaked in Brake Clean or Acetone prior to blasting with media. You must then heat each piece and check for wet spots or oil bleed out. If there is any oil bleed out you must go through the prep process once again and continue until you have zero oil bleed out. Surface preparation is the key to successful coating with Cerakote. The coating thickness should be 1/2 to 1 mil. Once cured and re-assembled, the tight fitting parts will loosen up with some oil and cycles. You might want to visit the NIC Industries website, www.nicindustries.com for all the information regarding Cerakote and proper application.
 
Re: Cerakote vs DuraCoat

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mark Housel</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">...left an AR 15 completely assembled, closed the dust cover, deployed the bipod and sprayed the entire rifle. </div></div>

Yikes! And I thought I was a hack!
shocked.gif
</div></div>
Hack is too nice of a word.
 
Re: Cerakote vs DuraCoat

I've been painting custom bikes and stuff for 40 years and agree with himaster. A good quality automotive or industrial finish will work as good as anything. Sherwin Williams makes a industrial paint line called Polane thats as good as anything you can put on a rifle stock, scopes or any other parts that don't get super hot. It doesn't matter what you put on a bolt or other moving parts that contact other metal: it will wear off.
 
Re: Cerakote vs DuraCoat

Just to add another plug for Sherwin Williams Polane; if it's good enough for Manners to use on their Stocks then it sure as heck is good enough for me.
 
Re: Cerakote vs DuraCoat

Polane and Duracoat are different in name and that is about it. The issue with getting Polane is that depending on where you live Benjamin Moore may not sell it to an individual due to safety regulations.
Duracoat is much thicker than Cerakote and does not hold up to chemicals all that well. For DIY the air cure version of cerakote may be a better option than Duracoat, however Duracoat has better self leveling properties and is generally a little easier to apply than cerakote, particularly when using an entry level airbrush. Air cure cerakote is not as hard as the H series, but it is still harder and more chemical resistant than Duracoat. I haven't bought Duracoat in a couple of years and so I don't know the cost difference, but off the top of my head I think that Duracoat is a little cheaper than Cerakote. Air cure Cerakote costs more than the H series.
With any finish that is applied, it is all about the prep. It is important to disassemble and prep all parts individually. In some cases the manufacturer tolerances are too tight to accept a coating, for example Les Baer 1911s. In that case it is important to create jigs or use masking tape to avoid certain areas, that or be prepared to spend some time with sand paper removing the coating in order to get back together and functioning again. In most cases everything can be coated and re-assembled with out issues.
 
Re: Cerakote vs DuraCoat

Been tossing the Duracote v Cerakote option for a long time, finally bought the Cerakote. Now that I have it I'm going to try it with some Bulldog camo stencils... Anyone try this? It's the bake on stuff, any words of wisdom?
 
Re: Cerakote vs DuraCoat

NIC Industries manufacturer of Cerakote has an applicator locator on our site. The map is designed to provide contact information to all NIC certified and recommended applicators for Cerakote Firearms, High Temperature Coatings and Prismatic Powders.
NIC Locator Map
Please click the link to go to the map.