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changing barrel on AIAX

timelinex

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
  • May 7, 2011
    1,381
    31
    Scottsdale,Az
    How easy is it to change the barrel on an AIAX (not the new MC versions). I've heard its a 30 minute job or so at home. Is it bad to do it often (couple times a year lets say)

    Also, can anyone recommend a set or list of all the tools needed to do it in the most 'inexpensive' way. I know AI sells their own kit, but at $1200, I would have to pass..
     
    Depending on the set up, about 8 minutes.

    You need a barrel vice, action wrench, torque wrench, and some go/no go gauges.

    If shop around you can get everything for under $1000.
     
    Get the viper or tubb barrel vise from midway or brownells (same exact vise just different name and finish), buy my action wrench for $125 shipped, get a 1/2" breaker bar (you shouldn't break the barrel loose with a torque wrench), and get a QUALITY torque wrench that goes to at least 100ftlbs, preferably that 100ftlbs isn't the max or minimum as it will be more accurate in the middle of the range. I recommend snap on, if you must skimp then at least by a craftsman, don't buy the shit from harbor frieght.

    You clamp or bolt the barrel vise to a sold surface, wrap some paper around the barrel so it doesn't marr the finish and tighten the bolts on the vise hella tight. Insert action wrench with breaker bar and crack it loose. Only crack it lose, remove the gun from the vise and unscrew the barrel with the gun in a upright position, this will keep from damaging the tennon and action threads. Make sure action face and barrel shoulder of new barrel is free of debris (wipe it down) use some light oil on the threads and spin the new barrel in. Put it back in the vise, insert action wrench and torque to 100ft lbs.

    Taking your time and removing the handguard to clean the receiver face this should take no more than 15 mins. You can get in the slots with qtips though to swab the face, if you do that and take your time 5-10 mins. Very easy to do.
     
    Get the viper or tubb barrel vise from midway or brownells (same exact vise just different name and finish), buy my action wrench for $125 shipped, get a 1/2" breaker bar (you shouldn't break the barrel loose with a torque wrench), and get a QUALITY torque wrench that goes to at least 100ftlbs, preferably that 100ftlbs isn't the max or minimum as it will be more accurate in the middle of the range. I recommend snap on, if you must skimp then at least by a craftsman, don't buy the shit from harbor frieght.

    You clamp or bolt the barrel vise to a sold surface, wrap some paper around the barrel so it doesn't marr the finish and tighten the bolts on the vise hella tight. Insert action wrench with breaker bar and crack it loose. Only crack it lose, remove the gun from the vise and unscrew the barrel with the gun in a upright position, this will keep from damaging the tennon and action threads. Make sure action face and barrel shoulder of new barrel is free of debris (wipe it down) use some light oil on the threads and spin the new barrel in. Put it back in the vise, insert action wrench and torque to 100ft lbs.

    Taking your time and removing the handguard to clean the receiver face this should take no more than 15 mins. You can get in the slots with qtips though to swab the face, if you do that and take your time 5-10 mins. Very easy to do.

    What about the go/nogo gauges LL just mentioned?

    Also, is this a good torque wrench for the job:

    http://www.amazon.com/Industrial-CD...8763513&sr=8-1&keywords=snap-on+torque+wrench

    (seems like the brand is snap-on owned)
     
    Last edited:
    Cdi torque wrench is what I use, it's good to go. Go/no go gauges come into play after barrel is installed, insert go gauge close bolt fully, insert no-go gauge and bolt should not close all the way. Headspace will be good and you're good to go. Some say the gauges aren't needed for the ai barrels, but I check mine anyways for piece of mind.
     
    My search skills are not up to snuff this morning. There is a 4 part video that covers the aw and a tube change with the use of the gages. I am sure someone can post the links.
     
    Is there any detrimental effects on the integrity or long term accuracy of the rifle /barrel from switching barrels on the ax this way semi-often( once a month).

    I don't plan on doing that but I'm just wondering what kind of abuse it causes.
     
    Is there any detrimental effects on the integrity or long term accuracy of the rifle /barrel from switching barrels on the ax this way semi-often( once a month).

    I don't plan on doing that but I'm just wondering what kind of abuse it causes.

    At that rate I would seriously consider selling the AX and getting the AXMC.
     
    You may mar the finish on the barrel over time. Otherwise, assuming your following procedure (torque specs) you should have no issues.

    Let me turn it around - if I carefully screwed and unscrewed my supressor on every day - would I do damage to either?
     
    Is there any detrimental effects on the integrity or long term accuracy of the rifle /barrel from switching barrels on the ax this way semi-often( once a month).

    I don't plan on doing that but I'm just wondering what kind of abuse it causes.

    No problem what so ever. I've been swapping barrels on comp guns for 35 years. Sometimes I show up with two barrels, different calibers w/ammo and decide based on conditions which I'll shoot.
     
    You may mar the finish on the barrel over time. Otherwise, assuming your following procedure (torque specs) you should have no issues.

    Let me turn it around - if I carefully screwed and unscrewed my supressor on every day - would I do damage to either?

    Thats a really good point, the only difference would be the much higher torque applied. But regardless I get what your saying.
    No problem what so ever. I've been swapping barrels on comp guns for 35 years. Sometimes I show up with two barrels, different calibers w/ammo and decide based on conditions which I'll shoot.

    Good to hear. I Really do not plan on switching calibers often. My AX will have a 308 and 6mm creedmoor. I'm gonna start with 308 and when I have time to do some experimenting (this is my first non standard cartridge like a 22/223/308/338) I want to start using the 6mm. I'm guessing I will love the 6mm and not want to put the 308 back on, BUT I want to know in case I'm short on 6mm ammo with no time to reload, I can switch to the 308 without any detrimental effects. It might sound obvious to you guys, but its going to be my first time doing anything like it so I was just making sure. I'm a measure twice and cut once type of guy I guess.

    Thank for all the help, I just bought all the stuff I need. Wheeler barrel vice, AI torque wrench, rosin and a CDI/snap-on torque wrench.
     
    Just as above, but to add:

    Easy task. Buy a Wheeler barrel vise (about $75 off Amazon, it includes oak wood blocks), get an action wrench from Adams Custom Rifles (great service, under $150), and a Go/NoGo/Field Gauge set from Sinclair. You should already own a torque wrench or two. Understand the gauges (insert and turn bolt), but try them on the barrel (to be removed) so you know what to expect before you remove your barrel. I used Meuller Rosin powder to grip the barrel in the vise's wood blocks. Takes longer to gather the tools and clamp the vise down than it does to swap barrels.
     
    So, let me ask. Have any of you changed the barrel from a 20" to something else? I found myself thinking I needed to remove the fore end to take of a 20" barrel (have 16" fore end).
     
    No intention on hijacking this thread, but with the changing of barrels conversation I thought Id ask.

    Are all accuracy international barrels interchangable? If not, which are compatible with each other?

    Thanks!
     
    No intention on hijacking this thread, but with the changing of barrels conversation I thought Id ask.

    Are all accuracy international barrels interchangable? If not, which are compatible with each other?

    Thanks!

    It depends, you can use an aw threaded barrel on any ai, however a specific ae barrel will not work with an aw. Aw barrels have longer threads, as opposed to the ae barrels with are threaded shorter for use with the recoil lug. I'm attempting to find a comparison picture for you, but here's an older thread with reference photos
    http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/snipers-hide-bolt-action-rifles/250499-ai-ae-vs-aw-barrels.html