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Clamp On Muzzle Breaks. Anybody running them???

HOGTOOTH5R

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jan 25, 2011
1,156
2
DFW, TEXAS
Hi guys, long story short. I got a Remington 5R Mil Spec in .300 WM that has the Factory 26" none threaded barrel. I'll be going on a Hunt/Fun Trip with it soon and have no time to send it off to smith to get it threaded and put a break on.

I've seen/heard of some Clamp On Style Muzzle breaks before and was wondering if anyone here has expierences on them. If so how well do they work and which brand/style do you use?

Pictures worth a thousand words.

Thanks in Advance!

Cheers.

HOG.
 
I took a Badger FTE brake and put it in my lathe, opened the threads up .002 larger than my barrels diameter, slid it on and tightened the set screw. It was on my old 700 varmint and I shot several thousand rounds out of it with no problems. I could remove the brake at anytime to clean muzzle. Was a great alternative to sending it off to a smith.

That sounds like a great Alternative except I don't have a Lathe nor the skills to operate one. But what I am looking for is precisely the same kind of setup as what you're talking about. Just wondering if anyone knows a good brand or place to find one already made to go.
 
Ruin a $125 brake and half ass a job to have a clamp on vs just thread the barrel... Great idea lol.


OP, I got a rifle in on trade that had a clamp on and it had some weird POI shifts that was definitely caused by the brake. I was suspect but it confirmed it for me. Look at it this way, that barrels surface tapers ever so slightly, it's not a perfect machine surface. Unless the inside of the brake is tapered to match, weird shit is likely to happen.


If you're in a crunch and you're not hunting at far distances I'd suggest just getting some lighter bullet weight loads and rezeroing the rifle. As others have mentioned as well, a brake isn't the best move on a hunt. That is unless it's a muzzle brake mount for a can.
 
I was in the same predicament as you are a few months ago with a 308 - I did some research and my conclusion was to find a smith and have some threads
added. He threaded and added an AAC 51T. I did consider one from Grizzly Gun Works
but in the end I went the threaded route. Not really hunting with this rig I have it set up more for target shooting.


Here is what I started with:


Here is the brake added:


The final product:


Hi guys, long story short. I got a Remington 5R Mil Spec in .300 WM that has the Factory 26" none threaded barrel. I'll be going on a Hunt/Fun Trip with it soon and have no time to send it off to smith to get it threaded and put a break on.

I've seen/heard of some Clamp On Style Muzzle breaks before and was wondering if anyone here has expierences on them. If so how well do they work and which brand/style do you use?

Pictures worth a thousand words.

Thanks in Advance!

Cheers.

HOG.
 
Ruin a $125 brake and half ass a job to have a clamp on vs just thread the barrel... Great idea lol.


OP, I got a rifle in on trade that had a clamp on and it had some weird POI shifts that was definitely caused by the brake. I was suspect but it confirmed it for me. Look at it this way, that barrels surface tapers ever so slightly, it's not a perfect machine surface. Unless the inside of the brake is tapered to match, weird shit is likely to happen.


If you're in a crunch and you're not hunting at far distances I'd suggest just getting some lighter bullet weight loads and rezeroing the rifle. As others have mentioned as well, a brake isn't the best move on a hunt. That is unless it's a muzzle brake mount for a can.

Don't assume anyone half assed anything. I took two measurements and matched my barrels taper using snap gauges and a dial bore indicator. There were no poi shifts even after removal for cleaning. The fit was flawless. I have since learned how to thread my own barrels and time the brake without the use of crush washers by using a surface grinder for final finish. The slip fit was to just get me going until I figured out the latter.
 
I did use a Roedale brake on my Tikka. It worked great - but I ended changing it out for a supressor.



 
It worked flawless with no poi shifts. There are switch-barrel setups using this same method, are they "half ass" also?

Most of those switch barrels run something like the badger FTE which clamps onto a perfectly machined surface. Different animal from a one size fits most that clamped to a tapered barrel.
 
I have a Witt Machine muzzle brake and it works like a gem. It reduced the recoil on my 30-06 by at least 60%. I have had no problems with it coming off and it was only 89 bucks online. But that brake looks good and so does the gun!
 
I have an older (pre-threaded barrel) 700 5R .308 and I installed a big rectangular 6 bolt clamp on brake from Muzzle Brakes by Kahntrol Solutions | No Gunsmithing Muzzle Brakes, Clamp On or Threaded I was also skeptical at the clamp on installation at first but I checked the torque on the bolts after the first 20 and then next 100 rounds and 1200+ rounds later it hasn't thought about moving or coming off. This is the only brake I've ever owned so I can't compare it to any others but the before/after difference is amazing. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend a clamp on brake to anyone.
 
In other words, half assed....



Not necessarily half assed. It sounds like there was thought put into this along with effort and it worked well from what i read. Sometimes it seems that the idea around here is if it doesn't cost 3 months salary, and wasn't done by a top name, how could it ever work. I speak from experience when i say sometimes we make things much more difficult/complicated/fancy than they need to be. Just my opinion....