When cleaning a barrel, do you guys ever use copper solvents from time to time, or do you guys just clean out the barrel using swabs and a cleaning solution?
- Thread starter uracowman
- Start date
Re: clean the copper in barrels?
Once the copper builds up enough to effect accuracy, you have to clean it out. The only real way to get it out is to use a copper solvent and let it soak. But, ensure you clean all the solvent out afterwards or it can hurt your barrel if it sits for a long time. 15-45 minutes soak is just fine with most any copper solvent. Then just clean normally.
Once the copper builds up enough to effect accuracy, you have to clean it out. The only real way to get it out is to use a copper solvent and let it soak. But, ensure you clean all the solvent out afterwards or it can hurt your barrel if it sits for a long time. 15-45 minutes soak is just fine with most any copper solvent. Then just clean normally.
Re: clean the copper in barrels?
I use Sweets 7.62 and it's one of the best copper solvents I've found, just be sure to do it either outside or with a fan running as the amonia in it will melt your nose otherwise.
What I do is clean the barrel normally, running oil and dry patches through it to get out all the carbon fouling, and then run a patch of sweets through, let it sit for 15min, run a few dry patches, then an oil one, then a dry one. If the last dry patch still comes out green, run another patch of sweets and repeat the process until the patches come back clean.
I use Sweets 7.62 and it's one of the best copper solvents I've found, just be sure to do it either outside or with a fan running as the amonia in it will melt your nose otherwise.
What I do is clean the barrel normally, running oil and dry patches through it to get out all the carbon fouling, and then run a patch of sweets through, let it sit for 15min, run a few dry patches, then an oil one, then a dry one. If the last dry patch still comes out green, run another patch of sweets and repeat the process until the patches come back clean.
Re: clean the copper in barrels?
Try Bore Tech's copper solvent for the reason Wolvenhaven said; it works and it's very low odor.
Try Bore Tech's copper solvent for the reason Wolvenhaven said; it works and it's very low odor.
Re: clean the copper in barrels?
If you use a copper solvent, understand that your point of impact/groups may change for the first 10-20 rounds until that copper layer can be redeposited. I have used copper solvent once, and I will never use it again...my groups went to hell for 20 rounds or so. I clean my rifle at the range with normal MPro7, then I shoot 5 rounds. A fouled rifle can shoot better than a clean one.
If you use a copper solvent, understand that your point of impact/groups may change for the first 10-20 rounds until that copper layer can be redeposited. I have used copper solvent once, and I will never use it again...my groups went to hell for 20 rounds or so. I clean my rifle at the range with normal MPro7, then I shoot 5 rounds. A fouled rifle can shoot better than a clean one.
Re: clean the copper in barrels?
Yeah,
But keep in mind there comes a time when too much copper can be a problem. Once it gets to be too much, it effects velocity and causes alot of friction. Which, causes your barrel to heat up faster. That's about the point where you are seeing accuracy issues. There's such a thing as too much of a good thing.
Sure, you will need to fire fouling rounds. But that's normal.
Yeah,
But keep in mind there comes a time when too much copper can be a problem. Once it gets to be too much, it effects velocity and causes alot of friction. Which, causes your barrel to heat up faster. That's about the point where you are seeing accuracy issues. There's such a thing as too much of a good thing.
Sure, you will need to fire fouling rounds. But that's normal.
Re: clean the copper in barrels?
I use slip 2000 for the carbon and sweet 7,62 for copper this will clean a barrel with over 600 rd of .308 in less than 20 minutes.
I use slip 2000 for the carbon and sweet 7,62 for copper this will clean a barrel with over 600 rd of .308 in less than 20 minutes.
Re: clean the copper in barrels?
Pro Shot Copper Solvent IV. No ammonia and best I've used to date. Cleans carbon fouling too.
Pro Shot Copper Solvent IV. No ammonia and best I've used to date. Cleans carbon fouling too.
Re: clean the copper in barrels?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: uracowman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">When cleaning a barrel, do you guys ever use copper solvents from time to time, or do you guys just clean out the barrel using swabs and a cleaning solution? </div></div>
Just cleaned my 6mm last night, let some Hoppes #9 soak all night, patches came out nice and blue just a few mins ago, I dont use my Sweet's anymore, but it does work very fast if you have a copper fouling problem. And it stinks of course.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: uracowman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">When cleaning a barrel, do you guys ever use copper solvents from time to time, or do you guys just clean out the barrel using swabs and a cleaning solution? </div></div>
Just cleaned my 6mm last night, let some Hoppes #9 soak all night, patches came out nice and blue just a few mins ago, I dont use my Sweet's anymore, but it does work very fast if you have a copper fouling problem. And it stinks of course.
Re: clean the copper in barrels?
I use the lazy man method. I use Bore Foam, it works every time in less than three treatments. If you're in a hurry, get their accelerator.
Hit it with Pro-lix when it's clean and let the Pro-lix dry after that and your cold bore zero will not drift.
The best thing about Bore Foam is you can throw away the brushes and it goes inert in 24 hours, never damaging the bore.
BTW; it drives Darrel Holland nuts, our guns were cleaner faster than his multi-stroke, multi-cleaner methods that everyone else used at the recent Long Range Shooters School.
I use the lazy man method. I use Bore Foam, it works every time in less than three treatments. If you're in a hurry, get their accelerator.
Hit it with Pro-lix when it's clean and let the Pro-lix dry after that and your cold bore zero will not drift.
The best thing about Bore Foam is you can throw away the brushes and it goes inert in 24 hours, never damaging the bore.
BTW; it drives Darrel Holland nuts, our guns were cleaner faster than his multi-stroke, multi-cleaner methods that everyone else used at the recent Long Range Shooters School.
Re: clean the copper in barrels?
i listen and agree with all of this. after 500 rounds my rifle still hold 3/4 moa at 100 yards. i shoot with a national f-class champion and we al know how they are with there barrels. this guys cleans his barrel after every 22 round string. ive actually witnessed him shoot 1 round, clean, shoot another round, clean, and he did that for 10 rounds.i wish i took a picture to back this up but at 200 yards with a 6.5 he had a 10 shot group the size of 1 .338 lapua round. it amazed me. then took my 500 round fouled barrel and did the same thing in .308 and it amazed him.
i listen and agree with all of this. after 500 rounds my rifle still hold 3/4 moa at 100 yards. i shoot with a national f-class champion and we al know how they are with there barrels. this guys cleans his barrel after every 22 round string. ive actually witnessed him shoot 1 round, clean, shoot another round, clean, and he did that for 10 rounds.i wish i took a picture to back this up but at 200 yards with a 6.5 he had a 10 shot group the size of 1 .338 lapua round. it amazed me. then took my 500 round fouled barrel and did the same thing in .308 and it amazed him.
Re: clean the copper in barrels?
I shoot with a bunch of National Champions, F, F TR, Palma, Match Rifle etc., and let me tell you most dont clean nearly like you suggest.
I clean every 100-200 rounds. Then use this cleaning technique
I take Hoppes BR Cleaner. Soak a patch, wrap around a brass cleaning brush and push through barrel from rear to front. Inscrew brush and pull rod back out.
Put new clean soaked patch on and repeat until I have removed the powder and cooper. Take less than ten passes.
Then I use dry patches same way to get solvient out.
Clean dry chamber,
Run and oild patch through for stoarage.
Take WD40 and spray brass brush for storage
Good to go and under five minutes. Beat the old BR ways I used to clean. Faster and not using severe solvients which can kil a barrel fast
I shoot with a bunch of National Champions, F, F TR, Palma, Match Rifle etc., and let me tell you most dont clean nearly like you suggest.
I clean every 100-200 rounds. Then use this cleaning technique
I take Hoppes BR Cleaner. Soak a patch, wrap around a brass cleaning brush and push through barrel from rear to front. Inscrew brush and pull rod back out.
Put new clean soaked patch on and repeat until I have removed the powder and cooper. Take less than ten passes.
Then I use dry patches same way to get solvient out.
Clean dry chamber,
Run and oild patch through for stoarage.
Take WD40 and spray brass brush for storage
Good to go and under five minutes. Beat the old BR ways I used to clean. Faster and not using severe solvients which can kil a barrel fast
Re: clean the copper in barrels?
i didnt mean all, i just meant him. thats the way he does it. he told me he has yet to find a better way to shoot that accurate until he shot mine. he still cleans his like that but couldnt believe how well mine shot.
i didnt mean all, i just meant him. thats the way he does it. he told me he has yet to find a better way to shoot that accurate until he shot mine. he still cleans his like that but couldnt believe how well mine shot.
Re: clean the copper in barrels?
I will shoot 60 rounds per match, twice per month, and clean the rifle every two or three matches.
I use Outer's Gunslick Bore Foam, two foamings, then patch the bore dry, and do a light oiling for the bore.
I'm not trying for an immaculate bore. I just want to stay ahead of the fouling, and the oil creates something of a barrier against moisture and oxygen, so the remaining traces of copper will not initiate bore pitting.
Greg
I will shoot 60 rounds per match, twice per month, and clean the rifle every two or three matches.
I use Outer's Gunslick Bore Foam, two foamings, then patch the bore dry, and do a light oiling for the bore.
I'm not trying for an immaculate bore. I just want to stay ahead of the fouling, and the oil creates something of a barrier against moisture and oxygen, so the remaining traces of copper will not initiate bore pitting.
Greg
Re: clean the copper in barrels?
Wipeout is all I ever use on any of my rifles and I couldn't be happier with the results. Easy and effective.
Wipeout is all I ever use on any of my rifles and I couldn't be happier with the results. Easy and effective.
Re: clean the copper in barrels?
Wipeout left in bore over night, run a couple patches next morn till dry, then one patch soaked with Kroil....done!
Effective, fast n simple
BnC
Wipeout left in bore over night, run a couple patches next morn till dry, then one patch soaked with Kroil....done!
Effective, fast n simple
BnC
Re: clean the copper in barrels?
I'll read this. Always fun to see how so many great shooters do it so different.
I'll read this. Always fun to see how so many great shooters do it so different.
Re: clean the copper in barrels?
Just discovered ED's RED SOLVENT after being a Hoppe's #9 guy for years. Benefits are that its FREE if you already have the ingredients, it seems to cut through deep carbon fouling with fewer passes and less time than Hoppe's, and I can add some of my industrial grade Ammonia to gets a Sweet's copper foul out effect. Downside is that it is stinky (I love the smell of Hoppe's and CLP) and the storage containers *should* be glass if you use Acetone.
This stuff really rocks and is worth a try.
Just discovered ED's RED SOLVENT after being a Hoppe's #9 guy for years. Benefits are that its FREE if you already have the ingredients, it seems to cut through deep carbon fouling with fewer passes and less time than Hoppe's, and I can add some of my industrial grade Ammonia to gets a Sweet's copper foul out effect. Downside is that it is stinky (I love the smell of Hoppe's and CLP) and the storage containers *should* be glass if you use Acetone.
This stuff really rocks and is worth a try.
Re: clean the copper in barrels?
I use soaked patches of Wipeout Accelerator (WA) to patch out the gunk and crud in the bore after my third or fourth range session. It usually takes 3 to 5 soaked patches of WA before the patches start to come out clean. I then spray one of the bore foam cleaners I have on hand and let it sit for 3 or 4 hours. Push out the excess with a single dry patch. Run a nylon brush back and forth a dozen or so times and patch clean. I finish with a patch of Kroil oil followed by two dry patches. Done!
Simple easy no fuss no muss and it works for me! Next time at the range it usually takes 2 fouling shots for my rifle to settle down and shoot to its capabilities.
I use soaked patches of Wipeout Accelerator (WA) to patch out the gunk and crud in the bore after my third or fourth range session. It usually takes 3 to 5 soaked patches of WA before the patches start to come out clean. I then spray one of the bore foam cleaners I have on hand and let it sit for 3 or 4 hours. Push out the excess with a single dry patch. Run a nylon brush back and forth a dozen or so times and patch clean. I finish with a patch of Kroil oil followed by two dry patches. Done!
Simple easy no fuss no muss and it works for me! Next time at the range it usually takes 2 fouling shots for my rifle to settle down and shoot to its capabilities.
Re: clean the copper in barrels?
Been using Wipeout for a few years now. I'll never push a metal brush down the bore of my rifles again.
Been using Wipeout for a few years now. I'll never push a metal brush down the bore of my rifles again.
