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Cleaning a B14R bolt...

nikonNUT

The harbinger of... making things not work anymore
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Oct 6, 2019
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    Gunlandia
    Stupid question for the rimfire gurus. Took the bolt apart today (I have had it apart before to get the thick grease out) and there is still a goodly amount in the threads etc (seems to be migrating) so what do ya'll use to blast it out? I have non-clorinated brake clean but I fear that might eat paint (bolt shroud?)/eat any plastic bits I can't see. Would Hornady One Shot do the trick? Thanks for the info!
     
    Stupid question for the rimfire gurus. Took the bolt apart today (I have had it apart before to get the thick grease out) and there is still a goodly amount in the threads etc (seems to be migrating) so what do ya'll use to blast it out? I have non-clorinated brake clean but I fear that might eat paint (bolt shroud?)/eat any plastic bits I can't see. Would Hornady One Shot do the trick? Thanks for the info!
    I use EZZOX on my guns but if you just want to degrease, try some denatured alcohol ( very mild) or lacquer thinner. The lacquer is more aggressive but I just tested it on my shroud and the coating is fine. It will however remove the red cocked indicator if you leave it on too long.
     

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    @AirGunShawn Awesome! Thank you for the info and for checking the durability of the coatings! Much appreciated!
     
    Did getting the factory grease out of the bolt change anything performance-wise? What do you lube the bolt with now? I've probably got close to 3k rounds thru my b14r and haven't taken the bolt apart yet.
     
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    I toothbrush clean all of my guns as soon as I get them old or new. I get familiar with them that way and inspect for any possible concerns. I also take that opportunity to decide if I should get any spare parts. IE: My Vudoo has very small extractors and even smaller springs and they were a $1.50 each so I bought half a dozen of each. I also inspect for manufacturing burrs or anything else that gets overlooked in QC, like machining particulates.
    I just bought this NJR ( pellet rifle ) and after inspection I realized that the factory had used two different styles of stock retention screws. A Philips head screw in the front and a slotted towards the rear. I keep all of it's original parts for resale, but replaced them with S.S. socket head cap screws. Now I don't need two different tools to remove the BA. When I go diving, I always have spare O-rings for me or someone else. I'm not going to blow a dive trip on account of a .50 cent seal. I'm a big believer in "self rescue" Can you imagine taking a vacation to Belize and miss out on diving because a seal sprung a leak??

    For lube I use EZZOX all over the gun with Krytox on the trigger sears. Both kind of pricey but I'm very happy with the results. I separate the stocks and actions and apply EZZOX liberally to the metal and the wood. That way when my guns go from inside the house at 72 F to outside
    with a temp of 90 F and high humidity and they start to sweat like a beer bottle, I don't have to worry too much about them.

    I don't recall any of my guns ever having too much factory lube. Not my junky $275.00 Zastava ( those five shots surprised me ) I say junky because of the rudimentary trigger, the rest is fairly nice. or my many Anschutz or V22, or SAKO, etc. They all seemed appropriately lubed to me.

    When my accuracy starts to fail, I look to me first. I would make sure that I'm doing everything the same with every shot. You should send your gun for lot testing. My V22 shot 1.11" and then .34" while getting tested simply with different lots of Center X. Strangely, Midas Plus was slightly WORSE!

    When my gun is shooting well and then it stops more than once..... that's usually me getting tired or losing focus. I have changed my cheek pressure or I'm not pulling the gun into my shoulder with the same force.

    My POA with the Zastava was the .12" diameter circle and I had a tiny scope mounted and not one of my Trijicon 5-50s on her.

    If it were me and I had no cleaner handy, I would strip the bolt and wash every part in Dawn dish washing soap to degrease and the lubricate with your Hornady One shot and call it good.

    Shawn
    Did getting the factory grease out of the bolt change anything performance-wise? What do you lube the bolt with now? I've probably got close to 3k rounds thru my b14r and haven't taken the bolt apart yet.
     

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    Did getting the factory grease out of the bolt change anything performance-wise? What do you lube the bolt with now? I've probably got close to 3k rounds thru my b14r and haven't taken the bolt apart yet.


    Performance wise, no. I just broke it down because I was cleaning the barrel and decided to have a look. There was a LOT of brown goop in the in the firing pin channel and still a goodly bit of grease (looked like cosmoline but thicker) on the threads. Hosed everything down with One Shot, used Q-Tip, rags and little nylon brushes to scrub what was accessible, let it dry for a few minutes, and blew out the the excess (read in the roll pins and the extractor grooves. Put a dab of synthetic grease on the cocking piece threads and put it back together. I'll be honest and say it "feels" smoother but that could be just getting all the detritus from the ammo/stuff that wears off as the bolt laps in -or- I'm in denial. :LOL: Gonna take it out later and see if it I got it back together right! :lol:

    I toothbrush clean all of my guns as soon as I get them old or new. I get familiar with them that way and inspect for any possible concerns. I also take that opportunity to decide if I should get any spare parts. IE: My Vudoo has very small extractors and even smaller springs and they were a $1.50 each so I bought half a dozen of each. I also inspect for manufacturing burrs or anything else that gets overlooked in QC, like machining particulates.
    I just bought this NJR ( pellet rifle ) and after inspection I realized that the factory had used two different styles of stock retention screws. A Philips head screw in the front and a slotted towards the rear. I keep all of it's original parts for resale, but replaced them with S.S. socket head cap screws. Now I don't need two different tools to remove the BA. When I go diving, I always have spare O-rings for me or someone else. I'm not going to blow a dive trip on account of a .50 cent seal. I'm a big believer in "self rescue" Can you imagine taking a vacation to Belize and miss out on diving because a seal sprung a leak??

    For lube I use EZZOX all over the gun with Krytox on the trigger sears. Both kind of pricey but I'm very happy with the results. I separate the stocks and actions and apply EZZOX liberally to the metal and the wood. That way when my guns go from inside the house at 72 F to outside
    with a temp of 90 F and high humidity and they start to sweat like a beer bottle, I don't have to worry too much about them.

    I don't recall any of my guns ever having too much factory lube. Not my junky $275.00 Zastava ( those five shots surprised me ) I say junky because of the rudimentary trigger, the rest is fairly nice. or my many Anschutz or V22, or SAKO, etc. They all seemed appropriately lubed to me.

    When my accuracy starts to fail, I look to me first. I would make sure that I'm doing everything the same with every shot. You should send your gun for lot testing. My V22 shot 1.11" and then .34" while getting tested simply with different lots of Center X. Strangely, Midas Plus was slightly WORSE!

    When my gun is shooting well and then it stops more than once..... that's usually me getting tired or losing focus. I have changed my cheek pressure or I'm not pulling the gun into my shoulder with the same force.

    My POA with the Zastava was the .12" diameter circle and I had a tiny scope mounted and not one of my Trijicon 5-50s on her.

    If it were me and I had no cleaner handy, I would strip the bolt and wash every part in Dawn dish washing soap to degrease and the lubricate with your Hornady One shot and call it good.

    Shawn
    @AirGunShawn Good info all the way around! I dive too and during my last trip to the cenotes (NSS-CDS advanced cave driver) in the Yucatan I had a burst disc pop. If it hadn't been for the spare set of doubles I had I would have been stuck as top side tender :( Pro Tip... Creative air fills can bite you in the ass! 4200PSI on Scuba Pro steel 100s sends people running for cover and you damn sure want to point the pressure gauge away from you when you crack the valve :LOL: As for the Bergara... I should have scrubbed it stem to stern as soon as I got it but I overlooked the bolt. They are NASTY from the factory and with good reason I assume. Broke my own rule with this one. Lesson learned and I'll check out those potions and lotions you mentioned! Can't make it to Lapua this year but hoping to take a week and hand deliver it sometime in 2022. Hopefully a time of year when it is "cooler" in Mesa. Lastly that is a good looking Bergara! I like how you filled in the logo! Here's mine...
    Rifle Pron.jpg
     
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    I
    Performance wise, no. I just broke it down because I was cleaning the barrel and decided to have a look. There was a LOT of brown goop in the in the firing pin channel and still a goodly bit of grease (looked like cosmoline but thicker) on the threads. Hosed everything down with One Shot, used Q-Tip, rags and little nylon brushes to scrub what was accessible, let it dry for a few minutes, and blew out the the excess (read in the roll pins and the extractor grooves. Put a dab of synthetic grease on the cocking piece threads and put it back together. I'll be honest and say it "feels" smoother but that could be just getting all the detritus from the ammo/stuff that wears off as the bolt laps in -or- I'm in denial. :LOL: Gonna take it out later and see if it I got it back together right! :lol:


    @AirGunShawn Good info all the way around! I dive too and during my last trip to the cenotes (NSS-CDS advanced cave driver) in the Yucatan I had a burst disc pop. If it hadn't been for the spare set of doubles I had I would have been stuck as top side tender :( Pro Tip... Creative air fills can bite you in the ass! 4200PSI on Scuba Pro steel 100s sends people running for cover and you damn sure want to point the pressure gauge away from you when you crack the valve :LOL: As for the Bergara... I should have scrubbed it stem to stern as soon as I got it but I overlooked the bolt. They are NASTY from the factory and with good reason I assume. Broke my own rule with this one. Lesson learned and I'll check out those potions and lotions you mentioned! Can't make it to Lapua this year but hoping to take a week and hand deliver it sometime in 2022. Hopefully a time of year when it is "cooler" in Mesa. Lastly that is a good looking Bergara! I like how you filled in the logo! Here's mine...
    View attachment 7697614
    Nikon,
    Are those aftermarket adjustment wheels under your cheek piece? I hate to spend 295.00 on my Atlas bi-pods but they are very nice.
    I know you appreciate yours..... :)

    I wish I would have gotten the black stock but it's still a nice rifle for the money. I also hang-glide and rock climb. If your not willing to be responsible for yourself and make superior decisions, buy quality equipment, take lessons when your supposed to... you just wont last very long.

    I've never done cave but I have done some thin Ice diving. It keeps you on your game and adds an entirely different dimension to diving. Night diving with sharks adds dimensions as well.! ( SCARY ) I have spent a fair amount of time with one of my instructors trailing her students. It's amazing how much you a persons body language will tell you. You can tell when someone is freaking out and about to bolt to the surface. I've seen it happen and when it does, people jump in the water, pull the guy out, cut his gear off and ambulance him to the ER. Gilboa quarry in Ohio is a great place to learn to dive. It has lots of stuff in it with really good Vis. It's also big and 140 foot deep. I want to mention that any gear that protects me or a fellow diver, climber etc. was bought new and kept serviced. I wear a parachute while flying and we have deployment practice, inspection and re-pack every six months.
    When my climbing ropes that are still like new, but reach their five year service life, I cut them in half and repurpose them. It sucks but I'm not willing to risk injuring me or my climbing partner.

    Nikon.... You know.... You can send your action to Lapua and they will test it for you and send you the results. That is the way I have done my 4 rifles. All they want is the BA, mounting screws and magazine.
    I know that Lapua in Arizona has a fixture for your B14R. I'm going to be sending in my 1971 Anschutz 54 ( target below ) and Kimber 82G very soon. The testing is $50.00 for each rifle and that is waived if you buy two cases of ammo. You would need to check with Ohio.

    As far as the enamel or lacquer finger nail polish in the Bergara logo...... I tape off the area and then hap hazardly paint over the entire logo and surrounding area. Then I take a thin flexible piece of rubber or plastic ( Bondo scraper is shown ) to remove the bulk of it like a windshield wiper does. Then I wrap my scraper with a piece of paper towel and get it damp with a small amount of lacquer thinner to remove the surrounding ghost or shadow. By wrapping the scraper, and using on it's edge as shown, you minimize the removal of color from the engraved area. After a short time, you can apply this to rounded features as well. It's a three minute procedure that turns out pretty crisp. I tried Lacquer pencils from Brownell's and could never get good, crisp, even fill like the factory gets.

    btw... best flight stats: 35 miles, 2.5 hours aloft and just over 7000 AGL. George was still flying when he was 85. My hero !!

    Everybody...Please... Break out of your comfort zone and do more than you think you can! Life is short but it doesn't have to be boring.
     

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    With any luck.... ( Proper planning ) I should be able to get back into air rifle Field Target competitions next spring.
    Which air gun below should I buy?? Anschutz $4400, Daystate $2400, Feinwerkbau $3400? I have the last one... It's a 2007 FWB P70 HP.


    btw... I replaced my B14R bolt knob with a Vudoo knob. It requires a Lumley thread ( 5/16-24 - M6-1 ) adapter but is longer, bigger in diameter and has three shallow groves that make it very comfortable to cycle. It's doesn't have the abrasive, pointed knurling.
     

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    @AirGunShawn The collars are 10MM I.D. Climax split collars from Amazon. I was looking for zero stops for the cheek piece so that I wouldn’t have to fiddle with resetting the height every time I pulled it for whatever reason.
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    I feel you on the no cheap gear (Pay no mind to the Athlon 🙄🤣). Any diving that involves an overhead component has got to be taken seriously! I’ve done the stupidest of the stupid (sort of). Back in the day (18 years old) I dove Ginnie Springs. We made it to the “Bone Room”. At some point it crossed my mind that we were 2500 feet back into the system at a depth of 140 feet but the passage was only 6 feet high. So about 134 feet or solid rock over our head and a half mile swim out if things went bad. Hence no solo dives, 2 complete regulators, 2 tanks with a shut off in between, 3 lights, and a reel with 600 feet of line on it (enough to clip off to the main line in the system). Lots of practice doing lights out, on your buddies spare, feeling your way out! Everything got rebuilt on the regular. I’ve known and lost too many friends and mentors of the sport to things they couldn’t control. That said it’s a sport I adore and wish I could do more often! My old man was a hang glider but I never caught the bug! 🤣

    P.S. I’m no air gun guru but Anschutz FTW? The 9015 in the ONE stock is a good looking rifle.
     
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    I use Liqui Moly Synthetic grease on my guns. For cleaning I indeed use plain regular brake cleaner. In my experience it does not effect paints, but some plastics.

    With any luck.... ( Proper planning ) I should be able to get back into air rifle Field Target competitions next spring.
    Which air gun below should I buy?? Anschutz $4400, Daystate $2400, Feinwerkbau $3400? I have the last one... It's a 2007 FWB P70 HP.

    Anschütz 9015 ONE - I've seen a couple with trigger issues with changing temperatures. Personally I went with the Steyr LG110 route. In Europe it's "the" Field Target work horse...
     
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