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Cleaning a new .22 rifle?

sentry1

Crayon Eater
Full Member
Minuteman
Jul 7, 2012
1,991
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Madison, Alabama
So, from what I've read, the .22 caliber rod, jag, and brushes I already have are oversized for my .22LR's bore.

Do I just buy a set in .20 caliber to clean the new rifle?

P.S. The rifle is a CZ455
 
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Got a rod guide? Good one piece cleaning rod?

Don't know your gun or the quality of the barrel. I would get a couple of nylon cleaning brushes to start with. A .20cal. and a .22cal. You won't need to use the brushes all the time but I would say about every 200 rounds maybe more for peak accuracy. Round count is going to vary with the quality of the barrel and how nice the chamber throat is etc....Watch for lead build up in the throat. I'm assuming a match type rifle and only shooting lead bullets?

Depending on what type of ammo you shoot you might have to use a bore cleaner like JB Bore Compound etc....about every 500 rounds maybe more in between using the compound/paste cleaners etc...Some ammo has/uses a glass type compound in the priming mixture. It will deposit at the bottom of the barrel from say 4 to 8 o'clock position. You will feel the bore getting rougher. When it starts getting rougher and you see accuracy drop off that's when you need the compound to get it out and smooth the bore out again. If you ever look in the bore of the barrel and what appears to be little pits....they are that glass compound bits coming out and will leave a little void/pit in the barrel. You will notice it more and more the more rounds you get on the barrel. No way around it.

Pay attention to the gun. It will tell you what is going on.

Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels
 
The 455 has a tight bore. I use a .20 cal dewey rod and jag with a delrin bore guide. .20 and .22 nylon brushes seem to be ok. I use a bore snake after each use and clean every 300-500 rounds or when accuracy falls off...whichever comes first.
 
The 455 has a tight bore. I use a .20 cal dewey rod and jag with a delrin bore guide. .20 and .22 nylon brushes seem to be ok. I use a bore snake after each use and clean every 300-500 rounds or when accuracy falls off...whichever comes first.

yes the CZ has a tight bore. You will most likely scratch the crap out of a .22 call rod so go smaller. Find a bore guide as well. When using bore snakes remember all that nasty crap on your patches? Well that gets stuck in the bore snake. Check out the patch worm as well.
 
Got a rod guide? Good one piece cleaning rod?

Don't know your gun or the quality of the barrel. I would get a couple of nylon cleaning brushes to start with. A .20cal. and a .22cal. You won't need to use the brushes all the time but I would say about every 200 rounds maybe more for peak accuracy. Round count is going to vary with the quality of the barrel and how nice the chamber throat is etc....Watch for lead build up in the throat. I'm assuming a match type rifle and only shooting lead bullets?

Depending on what type of ammo you shoot you might have to use a bore cleaner like JB Bore Compound etc....about every 500 rounds maybe more in between using the compound/paste cleaners etc...Some ammo has/uses a glass type compound in the priming mixture. It will deposit at the bottom of the barrel from say 4 to 8 o'clock position. You will feel the bore getting rougher. When it starts getting rougher and you see accuracy drop off that's when you need the compound to get it out and smooth the bore out again. If you ever look in the bore of the barrel and what appears to be little pits....they are that glass compound bits coming out and will leave a little void/pit in the barrel. You will notice it more and more the more rounds you get on the barrel. No way around it.

Pay attention to the gun. It will tell you what is going on.

Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels

Frank, that is the best advice,an well said.
i did not how to put it into words, but you so did
an you are right the rifle will let you know if something is going wrong.
as a match shooter, i do clean a little more now, then i use to
not so much with my hunting rigs
 
Thank you, Frank.

I had been taught long ago that it was better to never clean a .22LR bore, and to only clean the action if it needed it to restore reliable cycling.

But reading what you've just had to say here clearly informs me that my earlier 'knowledge' had been faulty.

Thank you for the update, it was sorely needed.

Greg
 
Thank you, Frank.

I had been taught long ago that it was better to never clean a .22LR bore, and to only clean the action if it needed it to restore reliable cycling.

But reading what you've just had to say here clearly informs me that my earlier 'knowledge' had been faulty.

Thank you for the update, it was sorely needed.

Greg

Greg and Yoteman! Your welcome! I was also taught a long time ago not to clean the .22rf match rifle (not benchrest rifle but a position type rifle). I do know after cleaning some .22rf might need X amount of fouling rounds before it starts to group consistently etc...but again what I say is you have to know your rifle and pay attention to it. It will tell you what and how it needs etc....It also goes back to what kind of accuracy you need out of the gun and what your using the gun for. A benchrest guy will probably clean it way more than a position shooter needs to.

Last weekend I shot my rebuilt 52D. Before shooting it last weekend the barrel only had 97 rounds on it. I shot 100 rounds thru it with out cleaning. It shot groups of .5" or less at 114 yards and consistently was shooting in the low .2's at 50 yards with the 20x Unertl on it. Towards the end of the shooting I put a zero on the iron sights and after zeroing them and with the last 5 rounds I shot a 5 shot group at 25 yards that came in at .190".

I have not used a brush in that barrel yet. Just has been Hoppe's #9 and patches. Got the barrel sitting with Hoppe's in it right now. I'll bore scope it Tuesday at work and see what the throat looks like and if any lead build up. If so I'll use the nylon brushes and solvent next. I don't feel a need for any bore compound at this time. The barrel still feels like brand new.

Later, Frank
 
In the past, I have used Shooter's Choice Lead Remover solvent to soak the lead loose in the front recess of the chamber. Mostly it works, and I say 'mostly' mainly because I don't have a borescope.

...and long ago, a friend would periodically chase out that same lead for me and several others with a .22LR chamber reamer. I didn't understand at the time that there is a proliferation of .22LR reamers, but accuracy improved again each time and no issues appeared. That option no longer exists for me.

Greg
 
The boretech .22-6mm cleaning rod will fit .22LR all the way up through the 6.5. I know because mine has been used on all of these. In fact I even use mine on the .308 and the 12 gauge. https://www.boretech.com/caliber/riflecaliber.shtml#22cal

Also a thing to note, is that they have developed a cleaning solution that is specific to rimfire. Welcome to Bore Tech, Inc. I actually have just about everything they make. The cleaning solvents are the best hands down. I will never go back to using anyone else. Being ammonia free is also a plus. No odors to deal with, and they clean really really well. I actually use the shotgun blend, and the rimfire blend. Its well worth the cost.
 
Anyone seen one of the brass tools that have teeth and remove the carbon ring. Theory is the soft brass, gently hand applied will not hurt the bore.
 
Barrel cleaning has been thoroughly covered,
but no one brought up an item I consider critical.
Before using a new rifle, read all documentation,
obtain a parts diagram, all torque specs
and strip the rifle down to it's individual components including the bolt.
Why? Over the years I've taken firearms out of the factory box/wrapper
and found bits of metal from the machining process left in inconvenient places
and fasteners not tightened to spec. Always disassemble any firearm new to you
and clean to ensure no unwanted problems occur during first use.
Then lube and reassemble using correct torque values.
Don't ever assume that any firearm has been delivered to you
in full/clean/safe working order. Doing this can save you from serious problems.
 
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What serious problems have you had when you did not do as you suggest?
 
Barrel cleaning has been thoroughly covered,
but no one brought up an item I consider critical.
Before using a new rifle, read all documentation,
obtain a parts diagram, all torque specs
and strip the rifle down to it's individual components including the bolt.
Why? Over the years I've taken firearms out of the factory box/wrapper
and found bits of metal from the machining process left in inconvenient places
and fasteners not tightened to spec. Always disassemble any firearm new to you
and clean to ensure no unwanted problems occur during first use.
Then lube and reassemble using correct torque values.
Don't ever assume that any firearm has been delivered to you
in full/clean/safe working order. Doing this can save you from serious problems.

Yep, I have seen this MANY times as well. The usual problems I find are action screws that are loose or too long (this drives me nuts). Also look at the inlet very close and make sure the bolt handle, trigger, any magazine retainers, ect are not making hard contact with the stock (this seems to be a common problem as well).

As far as cleaning I agree with Frank. I use a Dewey 20 cal rod and bore guide and a pistol brush (its shorter and will not cause the rod to flex as bad). On factory barrels I find that I am cleaning more often and more aggressive, but quality barrels usually just a few patches and it is good to go. I have gone well over 500 rounds before cleaning on quality barrels and the truth is I bet it really didn't need it.
 
What serious problems have you had when you did not do as you suggest?


Me? None. I was taught to read, understand, disassemble, inspect and clean completely before using.
Examples of things I've found: Heavy preservative on/in the barrel and receiver from the factory.
Bits of metal in the action or bolt that could interfere with operation of the bolt/trigger/safety.
Loose fasteners, incorrect length fasteners, missing fastener (later found in packing materials)
On used firearms I've run into improper assembly by previous owner, unsafe triggers, disabled safety,
gsr deposits in the bolt/action that prevented operation, and missing or incorrect parts.
 
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Spent $25 on a 22LR Boresnake and have had them send a replacement and can't get either to go down the pipe on my Clark Custom 10/22. Certainly not going to force it down. Thanks for the info above. Will be trying FrogLube on the barrel.
 
The 22 boresnake is a generic fit for all .22x calibers.
In a snug bore it'll jam and be a bear to reverse out.
I use a .204 snake on my 22's and have no problem.
 
Greg and Yoteman! Your welcome! I was also taught a long time ago not to clean the .22rf match rifle (not benchrest rifle but a position type rifle). I do know after cleaning some .22rf might need X amount of fouling rounds before it starts to group consistently etc...but again what I say is you have to know your rifle and pay attention to it. It will tell you what and how it needs etc....It also goes back to what kind of accuracy you need out of the gun and what your using the gun for. A benchrest guy will probably clean it way more than a position shooter needs to.

Last weekend I shot my rebuilt 52D. Before shooting it last weekend the barrel only had 97 rounds on it. I shot 100 rounds thru it with out cleaning. It shot groups of .5" or less at 114 yards and consistently was shooting in the low .2's at 50 yards with the 20x Unertl on it. Towards the end of the shooting I put a zero on the iron sights and after zeroing them and with the last 5 rounds I shot a 5 shot group at 25 yards that came in at .190".

I have not used a brush in that barrel yet. Just has been Hoppe's #9 and patches. Got the barrel sitting with Hoppe's in it right now. I'll bore scope it Tuesday at work and see what the throat looks like and if any lead build up. If so I'll use the nylon brushes and solvent next. I don't feel a need for any bore compound at this time. The barrel still feels like brand new.

Later, Frank

How did that work out Frank
 
A recommendation from Rimfirecentral.com is the use of Birchwood Casey Lead Remover and Polishing Cloth. Cut cloth into a small patch to remove lead at the throat of the chamber. I can't tell you how well it works because until now any deterioration in accuracy has been the result of deterioration in the shooter's skills not the rifles accuracy. A little more practice and the rifle gets better!
 
I avoid cleaning at all costs.I used to do a dry patch after every range session. Now, I barely remember to do that. Every 700 - 1000 rounds I will use solvent. But remember, you will need to "season" the barrel again after using solvent. My bore takes a good 20 -25 shots to get seasoned again and you can't use cheap stuff. So it costs me $7.00 every time I clean the barrel. No wonder I never clean it!
 
I avoid cleaning at all costs.I used to do a dry patch after every range session. Now, I barely remember to do that. Every 700 - 1000 rounds I will use solvent. But remember, you will need to "season" the barrel again after using solvent. My bore takes a good 20 -25 shots to get seasoned again and you can't use cheap stuff. So it costs me $7.00 every time I clean the barrel. No wonder I never clean it!

Respectfully, I call bull on that last statement. Why do you need to re-foul with "good stuff" vs cheap bulk ammo?

I'm not arguing the re-fouling part, we all agree with that, just the part where you say you can't use cheap stuff.
 
I avoid cleaning at all costs.I used to do a dry patch after every range session. Now, I barely remember to do that. Every 700 - 1000 rounds I will use solvent. But remember, you will need to "season" the barrel again after using solvent. My bore takes a good 20 -25 shots to get seasoned again and you can't use cheap stuff. So it costs me $7.00 every time I clean the barrel. No wonder I never clean it!

My cleaning and number of rounds in between cleaning will vary with the type of gun/caliber I'm shooting but for the most part if I shoot it, I clean it.

The question I ask is what is your accuracy requirement? Depending on how you answer this question will dictate how often you need to clean the barrel on your RF.

My rebuild 52D with a 100 rounds thru it with out cleaning was holding low to flat .2's at 50 yards and was shooting flat .500" or better at a 114 yards. As a position/prone rifle I don't see the need to clean it at this time etc...

but if it was a benchrest type rifle and I knew the gun up to 50 rounds shoots in the .1's with X type ammo etc...and after 50 rounds it falls off into the .2's then you have to clean the gun at the 50 round mark.

If your accuracy requirement is 2" groups at 100 yards and it's o.k. that it shoots 1" groups at 50 yards......then yea you can probably put 500 rounds or more thru it with out cleaning.

You have to pay attention to the gun and it will tell you what it needs.

Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels
 
Respectfully, I call bull on that last statement. Why do you need to re-foul with "good stuff" vs cheap bulk ammo?

I'm not arguing the re-fouling part, we all agree with that, just the part where you say you can't use cheap stuff.

Lube is different on different ammo and they will usually not shoot the best (with the good stuff) until they have been "seasoned" with the good stuff.
 
How did that work out Frank

Yoteman, Here are three pictures of the chamber/throat area. The barrel was cleaned with solvent only and patches only and the barrel sat with solvent in it for like two weeks.



The first picture above is where the throat transitions into the lead of the chamber. The dark shaded areas and if you see the little dark areas right on the sides of the lands in the lead area is lead build up.



The second picture is a going towards the breech opening (away from the throat but still right in the area of the case mouth).



The 3rd picture above is right at the lead area of the throat almost right at the end of it. The dark spot on the right side of the land (this is the driving side of the land) isn't not a tear etc....it's lead build up.

I'll clean it with a nylon brush etc....over the weekend (might even shoot the gun some tomorrow or on Fathers Day) but once I get it clean with the brush I'll take a couple more pictures with the bore scope and post again in a few days.

Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels
 
On my "SmallBore" 22 4 position rifles, I use a one piece coated Dewey rod and a 22 cal black nylon brush and the TM solution. After brushing it 10 to 15 complete strokes I let it set for 5 to 10 minutes, re-wet and brush another 10 strokes. Then I patch it dry. When it's dry I put 5 drops of powdered graphite in alcohol on a clean patch and run through the barrel. Remove the bore guide and make sure no solvent got into the stock or trigger group. A light touch of grease on the back of the bolt lugs or bolt handle and wipe down the outside.

It never takes more than 5 to 10 rounds to get either barrel printing back like they should. The Kimber 82Gs take a bit more than the Anschutz. I don't clean again for 250 to 300 rounds.

I hope this helps. Good luck.
 
My cleaning and number of rounds in between cleaning will vary with the type of gun/caliber I'm shooting but for the most part if I shoot it, I clean it.

The question I ask is what is your accuracy requirement? Depending on how you answer this question will dictate how often you need to clean the barrel on your RF.

My rebuild 52D with a 100 rounds thru it with out cleaning was holding low to flat .2's at 50 yards and was shooting flat .500" or better at a 114 yards. As a position/prone rifle I don't see the need to clean it at this time etc...

but if it was a benchrest type rifle and I knew the gun up to 50 rounds shoots in the .1's with X type ammo etc...and after 50 rounds it falls off into the .2's then you have to clean the gun at the 50 round mark.

If your accuracy requirement is 2" groups at 100 yards and it's o.k. that it shoots 1" groups at 50 yards......then yea you can probably put 500 rounds or more thru it with out cleaning.

You have to pay attention to the gun and it will tell you what it needs.

Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels

My "accuracy requirement" is max required. You can't treat a rimfire like a centerfire. I know that there are a few rimfire benchresters who clean often, and yes, that is barrel dependent. I have always found that accuracy goes wild: 1) after switching ammo brands, and 2) after cleaning with solvent. Bill Calfee talks about building up and then breaking down the carbon ring. He says you need a certain amount of a carbon ring for max accuracy, but when it builds too much, accuracy falls off. That doesn't really explain the difference in accuracy when moving to another brand of ammo. I think it is all about the lube.

Not to dodge your original question about accuracy requirement, the X-ring on an A-51 target is 0.161" and the 10-ring is .356" this is shot at 50 yards, so yeah, I need a rifle that groups tight. At 100 yards, I have a 1.025" 10-ring. As big as that sounds, it is extremely difficult to clean that target. Hopefully, I will fare better this weekend, as I have an 800 point match. But trust me, I don't avoid cleaning because I hate accuracy.
 
Yoteman, Tied up with work stuff right now. Gun is still sitting on the bench. I'll try and get to it here in the next few days.

Later, Frank

Yoteman, Cleaned the gun yesterday with a nylon brush and Hoppe's #9 solvent. Ran the brush about 6 times back and forth in the chamber area and a couple of times full length of the bore. From those earlier pictures I'd say all the lead is out. Some carbon build up is left (might be lead mixed in with that).

I'll clean it again sometime during the week and bore scope it again and take some more pics. for ya!

Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels
 
Yoteman, Cleaned the gun yesterday with a nylon brush and Hoppe's #9 solvent. Ran the brush about 6 times back and forth in the chamber area and a couple of times full length of the bore. From those earlier pictures I'd say all the lead is out. Some carbon build up is left (might be lead mixed in with that).

I'll clean it again sometime during the week and bore scope it again and take some more pics. for ya!

Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels

Frank thank you for taking time to bore scope your barrel.
a good friend an great gunsmith, told me about the lead build up at lead area.
I shot my MPR 64 about 300 rounds, an it shot lights out, I mean 25 cent size group at 211yrd 5 shots
then one day all I could do to stay around 1" at 50 yrd
so out came the nylon brush an a good cleaning. after 10 to 15 rounds, back to doing what it did.
so now I soak an patch after every match, an try to shoot 20 rounds to check my dope, before next match.
an let the rifle tell me when to brush again
just not sure of the JB paste yet.
will I do more harm then good with JB bore paste
 
My "accuracy requirement" is max required. You can't treat a rimfire like a centerfire. I know that there are a few rimfire benchresters who clean often, and yes, that is barrel dependent. I have always found that accuracy goes wild: 1) after switching ammo brands, and 2) after cleaning with solvent. Bill Calfee talks about building up and then breaking down the carbon ring. He says you need a certain amount of a carbon ring for max accuracy, but when it builds too much, accuracy falls off. That doesn't really explain the difference in accuracy when moving to another brand of ammo. I think it is all about the lube.

Not to dodge your original question about accuracy requirement, the X-ring on an A-51 target is 0.161" and the 10-ring is .356" this is shot at 50 yards, so yeah, I need a rifle that groups tight. At 100 yards, I have a 1.025" 10-ring. As big as that sounds, it is extremely difficult to clean that target. Hopefully, I will fare better this weekend, as I have an 800 point match. But trust me, I don't avoid cleaning because I hate accuracy.

I agree changing ammo does cause issues, especially if you are changing from ammo with a wax based lube to one that has a grease based lube or visa versa. And in my experience no two rifles are the same, I shot my Remington 37 position rifle 2 full seasons without cleaning it, with no issues. My Anschutz 1813 has to be cleaned thoroughly and often, so much so I may never shoot it again. I have a number of 40-X's and 40-XB's, they are not as forgiving as my 37 and need to be cleaned once or twice a year depending on how many rounds they see.
 
Frank thank you for taking time to bore scope your barrel.
a good friend an great gunsmith, told me about the lead build up at lead area.
I shot my MPR 64 about 300 rounds, an it shot lights out, I mean 25 cent size group at 211yrd 5 shots
then one day all I could do to stay around 1" at 50 yrd
so out came the nylon brush an a good cleaning. after 10 to 15 rounds, back to doing what it did.
so now I soak an patch after every match, an try to shoot 20 rounds to check my dope, before next match.
an let the rifle tell me when to brush again
just not sure of the JB paste yet.
will I do more harm then good with JB bore paste

I'd use the JB bore compound before trying the paste.

It's hard for me to try and describe this as every barrel especially custom vs. some of the factory ones but you have to get a feel for how smooth the barrel is. When you feel the bore getting rougher and the accuracy has dropped off and your regular cleaning doesn't bring the accuracy back that's when you are going to have to use the compound. Some barrels can go say 300-500 rounds and some not so much. It also depends on which ammo your shooting. Remember some of the ammo will leave like a glass type deposit from the priming compound in the barrel. Mostly at the 6 o'clock position but you will see it say from 4-8 o'clock. It's these glass like deposits you have to get out and it seems like the only thing that works is the compounds. You use the compound to get the stuff out and the barrel feeling smooth again.

Just be careful using the stuff is the best I can tell you. Again I feel more comfortable with the bore compound then the paste cleaners but you will have to try and see what works for your gun.

Later, Frank
 
FWIW in Anshutz's instructions years ago was a statement to the effect of "This is a ultra-honed lead lapped barrel. Do NOT clean with a brush or shoot gilded ammo in it. To do so will void the warranty." Occasionally on my precision rimfires I will push a Wonder Lube patch through it.
 
Well for starters I would never use a boresnake on a gun I cared about,a good quality rod and fitted boreguide for said rod,I would use a patchworm in a pinch
 
Bore guide specific to your 455.
IVY rods has a .22 rod that measures .187 on the shaft.
I use a pistol rod and nylon brush in the chamber without a bore guide.
I use the full length rod and Shooter's Choice Lead Remover for lead in both chamber and bore.
After full cleaning with the lead remover, take a cloth or large patch, encircle the shaft of the rods and look at the lead that you are removing.
Wet patch with your regular cleaning solution and then dry patch until clean.
 
For my CZ452, I use a 20cal rod and guide. But honestly, I don't clean it that much. And it still shoots. Maybe every 1000rds Ill clean it. And I have really gotten away from using brushes in any of my rifles, center fires as well. I have been using a product called "Wipe Out / Pacth Out" and the "Accelerator" that goes with it. On patches only, scrubbed back and forth in the barrel. This stuff works fantastic. Bores look like mirrors. No need to use a brush. On my center fires, if the copper fouling is really bad, which it rarely is, Ill push a bit of Sweets through, and follow it with the Wipe Out Patch Out. With the advent of such good solvents in the recent years, I don't think brushing is necessary.