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Suppressors Cleaning AL Rimfire Baffles

gunner442

Private
Minuteman
May 5, 2014
58
44
Have been looking for an easier way to clean my aluminum rimfire baffles and found Bore Tech C4 Carbon Remover. Stripped a year of hard baked carbon off overnight. Just wanted to share since I think someone on SH happened to mention it.
 
Be careful with carbon remover, it will eat the aluminum. I just pick the chunks off and ensure the threaded bits are clean. No need to get the can to like-new condition. I have heard using a light coating T/C Bore Butter on the baffles helps keep the gunk from sticking.
 
Be careful with carbon remover, it will eat the aluminum. I just pick the chunks off and ensure the threaded bits are clean. No need to get the can to like-new condition. I have heard using a light coating T/C Bore Butter on the baffles helps keep the gunk from sticking.

Two other things I've heard work really well are a light coating of dielectric grease and, here's the best one: K-Y jelly.

I have zero experience using either item on a suppressor. Just passing on tips I've read about and been told about.
 
I cleaned my can the other day after running around 800 rounds of CCI Suppressor and it was a spray with PB Blaster and wipe off kind of situation. The baffles looked nearly new afterwards and it took about ten minutes.

I do put a bit of white lithium in the can after cleaning which seems to help keep anything from sticking but mainly it's the ammo, the CCI suppressor stuff is amazing. It's cleaner after 800 rounds than Aguila was after 50.
 
Two other things I've heard work really well are a light coating of dielectric grease and, here's the best one: K-Y jelly.

I have zero experience using either item on a suppressor. Just passing on tips I've read about and been told about.
I can vouch for dielectric grease. It just doesn't melt like bore butter did for me. I can only wish I had a full auto .22, but on a semi pistol the butter was blowing out the can once it was too hot to hold onto. The grease never does. It really is a disassemble and wipe down affair. Try both. And let me know how KY works. The grease works so well I'm not going to be doing any more experimenting. I do think KY would make a good ablative, but I don't "wet" mine for sound reduction.
 
I called bore tech tech support about just this issue. They said that it was safe to fill the Al can with C4 and soak it overnight. The fouling came off with a paper towel. It is as clean as it was from the factory. No scraping or picking required.
 
I called bore tech tech support about just this issue. They said that it was safe to fill the Al can with C4 and soak it overnight. The fouling came off with a paper towel. It is as clean as it was from the factory. No scraping or picking required.
Probably many good carbon solvents. A cheaper alternative is the bucket of carburetor cleaner. Has a parts basket inside that you can lift out and drain. Can be used over and over. Safe for aluminum. Has an aluminum body carburetor right on the can. I also use it for my SS rimfire can and CGS 9mm can. I've gotten lazy for days and left parts soaking, including the tubes. No finish damage on any of them.
 
Be careful with carbon remover, it will eat the aluminum. I just pick the chunks off and ensure the threaded bits are clean. No need to get the can to like-new condition. I have heard using a light coating T/C Bore Butter on the baffles helps keep the gunk from sticking.
Already have some and going to give that a try as well. Thanks.