How well does this work and what is the correct soaking time and mix ratio and can it be done indoors
Suppressors Cleaning using dip ?
- Thread starter 1shot2kill
- Start date
Re: Cleaning using dip ?
50/50 mix, repeat solution changes until clean, watch the materials list of you can, use indoors at your own risk, I think it makes a lead acetate as a residue, hazmat disposal, it works wonders on all stainless rimfire cans.
HTH
50/50 mix, repeat solution changes until clean, watch the materials list of you can, use indoors at your own risk, I think it makes a lead acetate as a residue, hazmat disposal, it works wonders on all stainless rimfire cans.
HTH
Re: Cleaning using dip ?
Indoors...really....NO!!!!!
Indoors...really....NO!!!!!
Re: Cleaning using dip ?
i use straight white vinegar without the peroxide. works well on the baffles of my element. maybe try that first and save yourself the whole hazmat disposal thing.
upon further investigation it seems the peroxide only speeds up the process. i think im full of lead now... crap.
i use straight white vinegar without the peroxide. works well on the baffles of my element. maybe try that first and save yourself the whole hazmat disposal thing.
upon further investigation it seems the peroxide only speeds up the process. i think im full of lead now... crap.
Re: Cleaning using dip ?
Here are a couple tidbits...
- Periodically agitate the solution & suppressor.
This will allow fresh reactant to be exposed to the solution, thus accelerating the time it takes to clean the item.
- Disposal and handling of the used "Dip" aka Lead Acetate, is easier than one would think.
Store used "dip" and precipitated particulate in plastic bottles.
Label them as "Battery Acid" and dispose of them at the same place you would lead acid car batteries.
The purpose of the labeling is to ensure that container doesn't get placed with regular recyclables and is handled with the same care as a used car battery.
If you haven't already figured it out, use of "The Dip" is a controversial thing.
Some will emphatically tell you that you will make your suppressor weaker due to Hydrogen Embrittlement.
This very well may be the case, but I have yet to come across an example of a suppressor failing due to Hydrogen Embrittlement.
Regardless, use of "The Dip" should be done only after careful consideration and handled with the appropriate level of caution.
Here are a couple tidbits...
- Periodically agitate the solution & suppressor.
This will allow fresh reactant to be exposed to the solution, thus accelerating the time it takes to clean the item.
- Disposal and handling of the used "Dip" aka Lead Acetate, is easier than one would think.
Store used "dip" and precipitated particulate in plastic bottles.
Label them as "Battery Acid" and dispose of them at the same place you would lead acid car batteries.
The purpose of the labeling is to ensure that container doesn't get placed with regular recyclables and is handled with the same care as a used car battery.
If you haven't already figured it out, use of "The Dip" is a controversial thing.
Some will emphatically tell you that you will make your suppressor weaker due to Hydrogen Embrittlement.
This very well may be the case, but I have yet to come across an example of a suppressor failing due to Hydrogen Embrittlement.
Regardless, use of "The Dip" should be done only after careful consideration and handled with the appropriate level of caution.
Re: Cleaning using dip ?
after removing the parts from the dip do i need to neutralize the parts with water or straight vinegar?
after removing the parts from the dip do i need to neutralize the parts with water or straight vinegar?
Re: Cleaning using dip ?
Warm water rinse and hit it with a compressed air nozzle. Blow as much of the water out as you can. (you will make a mess) Then stand it end on end for about an hour. Oil it down real well and you should be set.
Warm water rinse and hit it with a compressed air nozzle. Blow as much of the water out as you can. (you will make a mess) Then stand it end on end for about an hour. Oil it down real well and you should be set.
Re: Cleaning using dip ?
A couple other things...
- Using white vinegar regularly is a good practice.
- Washing with piping hot water & Dawn dish detergent is also amazingly effective.
- To ensure that all water is gone prior to storage, place in a toaster over set on 250 for half an hour.
- Prior to storage, use Nickel Anti-Seize on the mounting surfaces to prevent fouling.
(Using regular Anti-Seize that is found in most automotive stores is not a good idea because they will not stand up to the heat and will harden.)
A couple other things...
- Using white vinegar regularly is a good practice.
- Washing with piping hot water & Dawn dish detergent is also amazingly effective.
- To ensure that all water is gone prior to storage, place in a toaster over set on 250 for half an hour.
- Prior to storage, use Nickel Anti-Seize on the mounting surfaces to prevent fouling.
(Using regular Anti-Seize that is found in most automotive stores is not a good idea because they will not stand up to the heat and will harden.)
Bringing this thread back from the dead with a question. How long does it typically take for this process to run its course? This is a picture of my suppressor soaking in the third batch of solution and with a total soak time of around 16 hours. Just curious how much longer I'm looking at for it to be complete? It's still bubbling which, from what I've read means it's still dissolving lead. I've had the can for 6 years and it's probably got 5K rounds through it.
