That thing is big, and as a leftie, looks awkward to manipulate. With the "modular" and "easily taken apart" aspect. Yeah, no. Shoving a rifle between the center console and seat in a vehicle... do some driving, some occupant movements in the seat, bumps, etc.. I don't want anything that requires just a push in in a little twist to disassemble. Let alone some of the fucked up things you don't even realize you do when you're up Shit's Creek without a paddle: like using your light bezel as a barricade stop..., so no quick disconnect bezel or tail for me.. I'll never be in that much of of rush to change my batterys or take the bezel off (why?).
Riding the same brightness boat as above by
@TheGerman , lights are supposed to to be up close target identification and like magnification in a scope, more is not always better. Yes, having the ability to brightly light up an object to identify it at 100-200 yards is cool... but if you put a light with a bazillion lumen or whatever candela light that can spotlight someone bright as day at that distance, what will that do to YOU at 5-7 yards in your home as you use it and the light reflects back off a mirror, a glass-pane framed picture, or white wall in a dark room? You're blinded and gonna take a little bit of time to unfuck yourself. If you're using your rifle with a light in your home for real, that is THE WRONG time to take some time to unfuck yourself because you're blinded from a super-duper-aweseome light. People who do actual room entry stuff for a living usually live in the 180-600 lumen range on lights.
A lot of cool marketing language on that website. The FL-1 standard for dropping w/o failing or damage is dropping from *1 meter* 6 times from 6 different angles like the sides of a cube.
Buying a flashlight, headlamp, bicycle light, or spotlight can be a confusing proposition. The ANSI/PLATO FL 1 2016 Standard and PLATO provide clarity.
www.plato-usa.org