CLR vs. Carbon

#5
It demolishes carbon, it will start foaming instantly. It will mess up nitride and probably other finishes if yer not careful. I used nylon brushes and patches, and afterwards I douched the hell out of everything with just action cleaner as the CLR will eventually eat into steel I would guess
 
#8
mahlv said:
It demolishes carbon, it will start foaming instantly. It will mess up nitride and probably other finishes if yer not careful. I used nylon brushes and patches, and afterwards I douched the hell out of everything with just action cleaner as the CLR will eventually eat into steel I would guess
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How does it mess up nitride?
 
#9
It will turn it into a cool antique shade of it’s previous self if left exposed to CLR for a long time, like maybe a few hours
 
#10
has anyone else tried wd-40 instead of named brand gun cleaner ? so far It seems to do a pretty good job .at 1/3 rd the cost . Its worked on tools for past 20 years can't see why It would not on gun parts .
 
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#14
Sportin Wood said:
I bought a bottle of CLR when at Lowes but haven't used it for this yet... But I am interested in trying it!!
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I use a 2 solution cleaning process. Scrub bore with CLR, patch it out, then scrub with copper solvent, patch it dry. Makes it shiny. I'm going to try some IOSSO soon, its supposed to be great as well
 
#15
Campguy308 said:
I use a 2 solution cleaning process. Scrub bore with CLR, patch it out, then scrub with copper solvent, patch it dry. Makes it shiny. I'm going to try some IOSSO soon, its supposed to be great as well
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I'm not so worried about the bore, as the Boretech does well in this regard, its the carbon ring that builds up on my 6 Creed and 6 BRX that I am going to use the CLR to break up and get out of there. I luckily have a AIAX so I remove the barrel and clean it by itself.
 
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#16
Sportin Wood said:
I'm not so worried about the bore, as the Boretech does well in this regard, its the carbon ring that builds up on my 6 Creed and 6 BRX that I am going to use the CLR to break up and get out of there. I luckily have a AIAX so I remove the barrel and clean it by itself.
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Yes carbon rings suck. The CLR will remove it with the appropriate amount of scrubbing. Use an oversized brush, as a brush of bore diameter will not reach all of it.
 
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#17
Campguy308 said:
I will say this, unless you have a good borescope, you don't know what works and what doesn't.
Click to expand...

This^^

on 2 different barrels, i used 2 popular "gun" carbon cleaners in each one...in each barrel i did cleaning cycles (patch, brush, patch...) every 20-30 min for 6 hrs...when i was done, both still had some carbon in the neck/throat area

both barrels, i patched with CLR, let sit for 20 min, then 10-15 strokes of nylon brush...neck/throat clean as it gets

the next time i cleaned them, i used 20-30 min of CLR first...the gun carbon cleaners got retired

CLR turns hard carbon build up into putty quick
 
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#19
CLR is great, but will discolor Cerekote if left on too long.

I push a half dozen patches with CLR, followed by a few dry, then thoroclean per instructions. End with a wet patch of lock-ease graphite lube, then 1 more dry to sop any excess lock-ease.

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To answer your question, I haven't found anything that eats carbon faster than CLR.
 
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#21
Drop a filthy Tbac brake in a cup of CLR , 20 min later it looks like you just took it out of the packaging.... nothing eats carbon like CLR
I have left it sitting on the out side of my barrel Over night to see if it would etch and it wiped off with no mark left at all , I still follow it with boretech for copper and kroil for a finish before patching dry.
 
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#23
This sounds like a great preventative maintenance step! How would one approach this on a gas gun? Will a bore guide (I'm running a Dewey) let the CLR get to the area that need addressed without getting the places you don't want it? or do the o-rings block that section off? Also, Any concerns with pushing CLR in the gas block when you run patches through the barrel after the fact? Total newb here so forgive the dumb questions but I am curious and like the thought a simple household cleaner handing the heavy lifting!
 
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#24
nikonNUT said:
This sounds like a great preventative maintenance step! How would one approach this on a gas gun? Will a bore guide (I'm running a Dewey) let the CLR get to the area that need addressed without getting the places you don't want it? or do the o-rings block that section off? Also, Any concerns with getting CLR in the gas block when you run patches through the barrel after the fact? Total newb here so forgive the dumb questions but I am curious and like the thought a simple household cleaner handing the heavy lifting!
Click to expand...
You're asking the right question.i, also checking everyones procedure
 
#26
It won't eat the bore. It is reactive with carbon and is water soluble. Follow up with water soaked patches, dry patches, and kroil. Put a brake in some and try it. It will turn the leftover carbon green after a few days if it isn't neutralized.
 
#31
I've been using clr for years in barrels and for cleaning suppressors. It is some excellent stuff for taking carbon rings out of a barrel.

Here is another tip. Go to the hardware store with your can and buy some pvc pipe that your can will slide into. Get one side with a flat bottomed cap and glue that on the piece of pipe. Now put your can into the pvc pipe and fill it with clr. You can also get a cap with threads for the top portion of the pipe so you can shake the pvc filled with for and suppressor to agitate it about every half hour or so. Dump it out and rinse with warm soapy water and let sit and dry.
Xdeano
 
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#32
xdeano said:
I've been using clr for years in barrels and for cleaning suppressors. It is some excellent stuff for taking carbon rings out of a barrel.

Here is another tip. Go to the hardware store with your can and buy some pvc pipe that your can will slide into. Get one side with a flat bottomed cap and glue that on the piece of pipe. Now put your can into the pvc pipe and fill it with clr. You can also get a cap with threads for the top portion of the pipe so you can shake the pvc filled with for and suppressor to agitate it about every half hour or so. Dump it out and rinse with warm soapy water and let sit and dry.
Xdeano
Click to expand...
I do this with removable brake :)
 
#33
15741170104103315012548154047934.jpg

There's so many type of CLR anyone tried this and had sucess removing them carbon build up? Pls confirm which CLR working the best
 
#36
xdeano said:
I've been using clr for years in barrels and for cleaning suppressors. It is some excellent stuff for taking carbon rings out of a barrel.

Here is another tip. Go to the hardware store with your can and buy some pvc pipe that your can will slide into. Get one side with a flat bottomed cap and glue that on the piece of pipe. Now put your can into the pvc pipe and fill it with clr. You can also get a cap with threads for the top portion of the pipe so you can shake the pvc filled with for and suppressor to agitate it about every half hour or so. Dump it out and rinse with warm soapy water and let sit and dry.
Xdeano
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bjay said:
I do this with removable brake :)
Click to expand...

I did a similar soak with an Area 419 brake in a cup of Hoppes # 9. It definitely marred/dulled the finish.
I’d love to try the CLR soak in PVC, but am reluctant to soak a TBAC in anything - particularly CLR, which took the bluing off an action I was trying to clean minor rust off.
 
#37
TBAC said they clean cans with CLR but they also cerakote them again after. Told not to use it on anything stainless. Which would include their brakes. Said best way to clean their ultra cans is plug the end, fill it up and leave it for a day, rinse and repeat. At least this is what I was told today on the phone. So I won't be cleaning my brakes with this stuff.
 
#40
I made a plug yesterday out of a wine cork. Filled up my TB U7 and thing started to foam out pretty quick. No way of preventing the CLR from overflowing foam on the cerakote. I wiped it up and then dumped it out after 30 minutes as I didnt want the CLR all over the cerakote. I rinsed it out and was surprised how much crap came out after 30 minutes.

I filled it back up again but didnt fill it into the brake threaded part or taper. I watched it for 30 minutes and dabbed out the foam on the top from spilling over. 10x less foam then the first time. I cleaned it out again with soap water.

Filled it up for a 3rd time at same level as the second. I let it sit for a few hours and cleaned it out. The blast chamber at this point was 100 percent clean but still a little on the ring at the bottom of the baffle against the tube. I was going to call it good at this point. But said what the heck.. filled it up again, and left it for 10 hours. Little more came out but not a ton. So I called it good.

I am waiting on another product like the CLR that will allow me to soak the can completely instead of having to babysit it for the first hour so it doesn't spill out and soak the cerakote. It was recommended to me here by another member and it's called hillyard iforce DMB product #474. Pretty much the same thing as the CLR but I'm told works better. Not that the CLR isn't amazing.

The picture of some carbon is what it looks like every time you flush it out. But take that times 10 for every rinse. Flushing with water and shake the can, tip it over and you get that many many times over. I just took a pic of one quick where it didnt wash down the sink yet. The carbon is like mud. Soon as you touch it its soft and you can not pick up chunks of it.

I lost 2 oz of weight in the can.
 

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#41
I've been using CLR on my TBAC cans for years. I also use an Ultra sonic cleaner on the smaller ones. After a soak, shake it vigorously in a bucket of water. You'll be amazed at what else comes out! I don't care about the finish on mine. I sand blast the finish off when they get jacked. Plus, I run a cover.
 
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#44
I just fill a cup with CLR then turn the rifle upside down to soak the brake for awhile, then scrub and repeat. Then blast it with degreaser from a can. I seldom remove brakes, even the self timing ones.

I have done this on Thunderbeast bare stainless brakes and Area 419 brakes that are black from them.

I havent discolored one yet.

YMMV
 
#49
My 2 cents worth. I have an Advance Armament Pilot that I use on .22lr guns. I purchased it about 2005 and have used it on rifles and handguns since then. My son used it on every 22lr he had as well. How many thousands were put through this without cleaning would just be a wild guess. Let me tell you we do not sit still when it comes to shooting 22lr.

I decided to clean it last week and had another gunsmith use his ultrasonic cleaner on it and got some carbon out. Then I took it home and got some CLR from the hardware store. Soaked this suppressor in a quart canning jar filled with CLR for 48 hours. It bubbled for the first 25 hours and then quit. Poured out all the CLR and found about 1/16 or slightly more carbon in the bottom of the jar.

Refilled the jar with CLR and soaked for another 23 hours and no more bubbles. Took the suppressor out and rinsed it well in the sink. Then took and filled the unit with Bore Tech C4 Carbon Remover for 24 hours and then rinsed this out. Very little black carbon remaining at all.

Is this an Aluminum based Supressor? Yes, the outside is exactly that. Did this turn this old suppressor pink. NO. Did it remove all the coating? NO. Now in the future and over time it may but not at this time.
 
#50
AGrizz said:
My 2 cents worth. I have an Advance Armament Pilot that I use on .22lr guns. I purchased it about 2005 and have used it on rifles and handguns since then. My son used it on every 22lr he had as well. How many thousands were put through this without cleaning would just be a wild guess. Let me tell you we do not sit still when it comes to shooting 22lr.

I decided to clean it last week and had another gunsmith use his ultrasonic cleaner on it and got some carbon out. Then I took it home and got some CLR from the hardware store. Soaked this suppressor in a quart canning jar filled with CLR for 48 hours. It bubbled for the first 25 hours and then quit. Poured out all the CLR and found about 1/16 or slightly more carbon in the bottom of the jar.

Refilled the jar with CLR and soaked for another 23 hours and no more bubbles. Took the suppressor out and rinsed it well in the sink. Then took and filled the unit with Bore Tech C4 Carbon Remover for 24 hours and then rinsed this out. Very little black carbon remaining at all.

Is this an Aluminum based Supressor? Yes, the outside is exactly that. Did this turn this old suppressor pink. NO. Did it remove all the coating? NO. Now in the future and over time it may but not at this time.
Click to expand...


Good to know, thank you. I couldn't care less about the finish on mine, just don't want to make it unsafe to shoot with.
 
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