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Co-ax press is misaligned

V

Vandy321

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It doesn't appear to have an effect on cases entering the dies straight, not any interference during loading, but I just noticed that one of the stops, on the down stoke, bottoms out before the other?

Pretty tough metal to bend...anybody else seen this, know what's causing it to troubleshoot, or if it's even an issue (doesnt appear to be, but I dont have a cocentricity gauge to check loaded rounds either.

I'm away from home for a few days, so a pic will be hard, but if you have one, at the full downstroke, lookingndown from above, on of the stops (on the lower/outside of the handle) bottoms out prior to the other.

I figure it still rides the two main rails without issue, but wanted to ask.
 
It may just be slop in the link. The one on the left side of mine does not have hardly any play, where I can get the one on the right to rattle when I shake it. However, mine do hit the stop at the nearly the same time. Maybe 0.01 off.
 
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Intersted to hear what others say, on mine on stop definitely sits a about 1/8" as the other side contacts. But again, I've done my best to eyeball it as I run different dies, and it's not binding....nor does it have any visible slop or play in the actual press as it runs up the cylinders/rails (whatever they're called)
 
When it is under a load, take a caliper and measure from the top of the base to the the top of the lock ring insert (machined edge to machined edge). Guessing it will check out.
 
When it is under a load, take a caliper and measure from the top of the base to the the top of the lock ring insert (machined edge to machined edge). Guessing it will check out.


Meaning measure left and right sides of that and just make sure its even?
 
The right side hits first on mine. I just started reloading about 2 months ago and have loaded around 2500 rounds with it with only one minor problem. The only problem I've had with this press is that using a Lee decapping die, once in awhile the mouth of the brass would hit off center and ding the edge of the mouth. Picked up an FW Arms Auto Center Decapper and no problem since.
 
Funny, I have the same problem with the lee, but I find it's only when I'm in a rush and the case isnt seated fully in the jaws
 
I have the same issue. The problem is with the round cast nubs on the handle. The one on the right side of mine is a smaller diameter than the left. Hasn't affected loading consistent ammo, and I had not noticed it until you started this thread.
 
The only problem I've had with this press is that using a Lee decapping die, once in awhile the mouth of the brass would hit off center and ding the edge of the mouth. Picked up an FW Arms Auto Center Decapper and no problem since.

This happens to me all the time because I'm usually in a hurry (as mentioned in a later post). The decapper die slides toward me a bit and I munge a case mouth.

That FW decapper looks like it'd be too tall to run in a co-ax. Is that not the case?
 
This happens to me all the time because I'm usually in a hurry (as mentioned in a later post). The decapper die slides toward me a bit and I munge a case mouth.

That FW decapper looks like it'd be too tall to run in a co-ax. Is that not the case?

I think it might depend on the Co-Ax. If I remember correctly, the guys at The Reloading Podcast confirmed it worked in the Forster.
 
The lee decapping die works just fine in the Forster, but I have noticed if toy keep the lee lock ring on, that it can slide a little bit whe you're not looking...I put a forster wring on it and try not to rush, easy fix.
 
And to answer/confirm the misalignment issue...the stops do not touch evenly, however the suggested caliper measurements seem to say it's still 100% in-line on the one-stroke, as far as I can tell
 
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Check the bottom link pins/dowels. They have a machined hole for the set screw to set in. If the pin is rotated so the hole is not aligned with the set screw, the pin will walk, throwing off the squareness of the linkage.
 
Check the bottom link pins/dowels. They have a machined hole for the set screw to set in. If the pin is rotated so the hole is not aligned with the set screw, the pin will walk, throwing off the squareness of the linkage.

Will take a look when I get home friday again...not sure I can picture what you're saying, but hopefully it makes sense when I look at it. Never noticed anything on the bottom of the dowels, maybe thats the issue.

Thanks for bringing that up!
 
And your point/contribution to this dialog is?

Maybe I misinterpreted your statement but I thought you were implying to air-dry the loctite before tighting the fastener, i.e., "blue (dried first) locktite." I was not attempting to criticize or be offensive.
 
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Maybe I misinterpreted your statement but I thought you were implying to air-dry the loctite before tighting the fastener, i.e., "blue (dried first) locktite."
No, that’s what I meant. Blue loctite dries whether applied and screwed in, or applied and then allowed to air dry, and then screwed in.

The air dried approach accomplishes the same thing without dripping blue colored shit everywhere though. Hence my recommendation.

Sorry to be so irritable and short with you, that wasn’t fair or graceful of me. I‘m in a fair amount of pain right now, and even with opiates and barbiturates, I tend to get cranky and short with folks that happenstance into my path.

My apologies.
 
It was set, put it back in, same deal...the right side link is just a tad more loose than the left.