How else would you do it with a depth mic?
- Thread starter karagias
- Start date
That’s what I’m saying, a depth mic is a bad way to get that measurement.
I am just wondering why all these people are buying gauge balls, how are they going to measure it? Most guys have a set of harbor freight calipers at best.
A depth mic is the most convenient and cheapest way to get an accurate and repeatable measurement.
So how exactly are you going to take a measurement from the top of a 1.25" sphere and measure down to a barrel shoulder that is likely 1.25" or smaller?
I am just wondering how all these people I see posting about buying the gauge ball are planning to use it?
with a barrel help vertically, Two gage blocks on either side of the tenon up against the shoulder will provide a flat surface for which you can use a depth mic. I dont have any gage blocks or the correct size ball bearing on hand and instead for photo purposes had to use a stone and scrap bolt knob, but you get the idea.
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Why would a version of the action that isnt even a napkin sketch yet go into production before leftys?
Agreed, leftys are barbarians.
If you have the barrel mounted in the lathe chuck you could set the ball and zero out an indicator at the highest point on the ball then move the carriage of the lathe till the indicator zero's out on the face of the barrel. Then use a DRO or a carriage mounted indicator to read the measurement.
It seems like you answered your own question.
Kidding aside, I was only hoping to hear if anyone happened to have any information in casual conversation with ARC since it was mentioned a long time ago.
I had a thought to rebarrel my current hunter to a new caliber and it would be a good excuse to sell it and build a better rifle.
When I spoke to them a few weeks ago, it was nothing more than a Hide request.
That’s a shame. But I appreciate the info
Do you need me to draw you a pic?
Last piece of my puzzle showed up too.
Second last, I guess.
Second last, I guess.
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Do they offer a specific CDG inlet now? My archimedes fit like crap in the mausingfield inlet I was told by JK "it'll work great"
It’s a foundation ARCA rail.
Yes.
What model is that with the flatter bottom? Centurion with no bag hook?
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Centurion is 90° grip. I think it's. Genesis
Has anyone bore scoped or removed a fired barrel? I now have ~120 rounds on my 22GT and it appears the coned breach is quite pitted from bullet tips. I’ll need to remove the barrel to take a closer look.
Pitted breech face from bullet tips? Are you using some of those fancy new bullets with abrasive ceramic alumina tips?
I have a conical breech on another rifle with 2k rounds or so through it, and the conical breech face is still perfectly smooth but always shows some light mark off and copper colored tracks from bullet tips contacting it during feeding-- and those marks wipe right off with solvent on a patch.
Post pics of the breech face... I'm sure I'm not the only one with questions wanting more info.
I've removed my fired barrel a couple times. No issues with the coned breech. Are you sure it's actually pitting? Honestly I don't see how that could happen.
It defies reason that a copper or plastic tipped bullet would damage barrel steel in 120 rounds. When I chambered my barrel, I polished it to a mirror. Still looks like that at 100 rds. Im shooting standard match bullets.
Your bolt is doing that. Look at the radial nature of the marks. No part of the cartridge touches that part of the barrel. Look at your extractor.
Were you the one who was complaining that your coup was harder to bolt lift than your Arch actions? If so, there’s your reason. I could be wrong, trying to remember who that was.
I was not.
Ok. Prepare for it to feel smoother and lighter after the fix.
Do us a favor, drop a cartridge into your chamber. See if the back of the chamber overhangs the extractor groove of the case. Take a pic if you can.
This part of the chamber
So he is chambered just a little deep? Cut the shoulder back and the conical breach the same amount deeper?
Made me look. 125 on mine.
@bohem - looks like you may need to go .005 or so deeper with the cone.
I can’t feel this at all, but it barely touched.
In my case I’d bet it’s just kissing as the extractor pops over the case head. I know it’s CRF, but just shot a match where we had to single load 10 over an empty mag. For all those it had to snap over rim.
@bohem - looks like you may need to go .005 or so deeper with the cone.
I can’t feel this at all, but it barely touched.
In my case I’d bet it’s just kissing as the extractor pops over the case head. I know it’s CRF, but just shot a match where we had to single load 10 over an empty mag. For all those it had to snap over rim.
No, the cone is too shallow, and that picture shows that it can be cut substantially deeper (~.015) and still not expose the web of the case.
When I chambered my barrel, I cut the cone until the extractor was clear plus .002 or so. Then I chambered the barrel so it would touch on my Go gauge(so chamber was Go plus nothing). Then I inserted a cartridge case to check protrusion. What I saw was exactly what s3th posted in the pic, so i cut the cone deeper .015-.020(dont remember exactly).
Actually its not that. That portion of the extractor pivots out of the way when the case is underneath it. By out of the way I mean that face of the extractor matches the cone engle. It doesn't match the angle when theres no case. You can see this in the ARC drawings.
Its actually possible that S3th and yours only touch when the chamber is empty.
Sharpie up the shiny spot on the extractor and chamber a round, ill bet it will clear and the sharpie will remain. Either way, have it fixed, it will only feed better the further out you push the cone.
Where’s the best place to order a pre fit for CDG nowadays? Thanks
