I am always surprised by the high number of pictures with the optics on the hinged side of the case.
- Thread starter jamesmspencerjr
- Start date
You know, I was wondering that myself. I guess the rifle looks good when you open the case, but then the rifle is always upside down when you carry it from the handle longways.
Do you think that it really makes any difference though? I am curious since I will start cutting in a couple of weeks for my new case.
You can always spin it 180.
What I've always understood is that if you plan to travel with the case, orient it so that the serial numbers can be read without taking the gun out of the case. Then decide if you want the optics up or down.
What I've always understood is that if you plan to travel with the case, orient it so that the serial numbers can be read without taking the gun out of the case. Then decide if you want the optics up or down.
I think the optics should be away from the hinge. Doesn't mean someone won't drop it "handle down" but it will be less likely to happen.
I did mine with a Nitrogen laser. I spent a little time making a 1" grid on paper, drawing everything out in CAD and then Laser cutting the foam. It was an absolutely perfect fit. The laser did not melt or burn the foam, it just cut it perfectly. In fact the cut out pieces still fit incredibly tight against each other. If someone had a CAD Drawing or if you could work out a way to get me a profile of your rifle I would be happy to cut some one else's stuff.
-Edit- Before you go crazy...yes, I know it is "upside down". We took a bunch of photos prior to putting spray adhesive on the back piece and installing the foam the correct way. It just looked "cooler" this way for photos.
I have a short video of the foam being cut as well.
-Edit- Before you go crazy...yes, I know it is "upside down". We took a bunch of photos prior to putting spray adhesive on the back piece and installing the foam the correct way. It just looked "cooler" this way for photos.
I have a short video of the foam being cut as well.
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I did mine with a Nitrogen laser. I spent a little time making a 1" grid on paper, drawing everything out in CAD and then Laser cutting the foam. It was an absolutely perfect fit. The laser did not melt or burn the foam, it just cut it perfectly. In fact the cut out pieces still fit incredibly tight against each other. If someone had a CAD Drawing or if you could work out a way to get me a profile of your rifle I would be happy to cut some one else's stuff.
-Edit- Before you go crazy...yes, I know it is "upside down". We took a bunch of photos prior to putting spray adhesive on the back piece and installing the foam the correct way. It just looked "cooler" this way for photos.
I have a short video of the foam being cut as well.
How does it close with the rifle folded like that. When I take out my middle foam and fold the rifle, it's definitely digging hard into the other foam pieces.
It closes ok...just gotta squish the case a little. I had to have mine folded or I would never of been able to fit everything else in the case...travel.
Any potential issues with it closing that tight? I want to cut mine with the rifle folded as well to save space.
How deep is that cut out and how thick is that top layer of foam in the normal areas
I have tried cutting foam with an electric knife and it just looked messy. The last case I fitted was done with a hot knife. It was under $20 at Harbor Freight and works like a champ. it also has a depth guide built onto it that came in handy. If you're wondering, it was for a O/U shotgun so it didn't really matter what went next to the hinges.
I put it like that for the pic. Lol. I never put my optics on the hinge side when carrying it.
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Thank you Hairball, I might do something similar and those pictures give me good measurements to start from.
Does anyone have any experience using a spray adhesive to glue the two bottom pieces of foam together after the top layer is cut? My cut foam is a tight fit to the rifle and each time I take it out I always end up pulling up the foam; I thought spray adhesive would be a good solution?
Cutting foam in a pelican case
3M super 77 works well. I have also used regular contact cement and just brushed it on with a foam brush.
Both take a while to set and even longer for the smell to go away. You will want to do it outside. Contact cement is worse on both accounts.
3M super 77 works well. I have also used regular contact cement and just brushed it on with a foam brush.
Both take a while to set and even longer for the smell to go away. You will want to do it outside. Contact cement is worse on both accounts.
Or you can get a Starlight case with their 4 lb micro cell polyethylene foam, make tracing and let them cut it for a charge on their computerized router table. I'm ordering one soon for my Surgeon Remedy. Just waiting on stock spacers to fit the rifle to me better.
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New Innovative Products, Inc. - Starlight Cases - World's Strongest Protective Cases - Unconditional Lifetime Warranty - Virtually Indestructible
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If you have access to AutoCAD, you can take a picture of your items, overlay the pictures into AutoCAD, and trace them. Then you can digitally lay the items out and send the .dwg file to someone to have the items cut out with a laser.
This is the way to get the absolute best fit.
This is the way to get the absolute best fit.
I'm sure laser cut is exceptionally clean, but what many people don't consider is that a gun is three dimensional. After I cut out the shapes I need, I will also trim the thickness of the cutout to match the thickness of the item. That way you are not fishing in a 2" hole for a 1" thick item. Also...considering that you have a layer of foam under the rifle, you can cut the bottom layer out under the gun for soft items such as rear shooting bags thereby saving space on the middle layer of foam.
Several different jobs here. In the first pic, the top case was cut with an extendable razor knife. The middle case was hot wire and the third case you can see the outline as it was not cut yet. The second pic was a chore. Since the weapon was longer than the case, only thing I could do was to fold the stock for it to fit. What I did is took all sections of foam and cut them in half making six layers rather than three. Then the four inner layers were cut individually so that the stock would fit lower in the bottom of the case and then one layer of the top was cut so that it matched the inlay of the weapon. Still need to make provisions for my suppressor, ammo, bolt and magazines. All done with a hot wire setup that has a variable control for heat. case closes nicely.
Tag. Great info here.
Nobody seems to have mentioned these guys. Kinda spendy but professional results.
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Custom Foam Case Inserts - MyCaseBuilder.com
