Appalachian, Thank you so much for catching my blunder.... I did mean the
#9657K611. I should have also added a description as well.
It has a length of .375" and an OD of .148" and a wire diameter of .014" The Yo-Dave wire was .018" when I bought his kit.
When people do the spring job I also recommend they sand down the ends of the trigger pin for easy insertion. Once they drive the
pin out it becomes clear why I suggest it. To retain the pin I use finger nail polish because it wont wick into the trigger joints like Loc-tite
can or they can stake the pin in place. The stake I show in photo five is huge because I wanted it be clear in the photo. All you need is
a few thousandths deformation. I also suggest people lap the trigger sear in the same direction as the trigger travel. Or 90* to the trigger
pin. You can see the faint grind marks in the frosted area of photo number six demonstrating that the factory did it in that direction as well.
I was surprised to find that the MIM manufactured trigger was concave and not flat. Lappers... one last note: Keep the trailing edge of the
trigger sharp and crisp. Do Not let it get rounded over !!
The
#9657K601 spring is the .25" long version and although I have tried it, I decided
against it because it was too light for my taste.
If anyone tries it, they will need to get all of the spring pre-load from the #53 adjustment screw. I have sold or given away a fair amount
of the 457 spring kits and I felt suppling it would cause more problems than it would solve. I have given the short spring to people who just
have a burning desire to try it. Be careful !!
Screw
#49 is backwards... In yields less sear engagement. I typically start off the final tune by turning the #49 screw in until the firing pin
falls and then back it out by 90*
I think you meant McMaster-Carr #9657K611
