- Thread starter diverdon
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One personal preference I'd change is that even though it "looks funny" I orient my rifles stock down to the wheels as he did but scope up towards the handle versus down towards the bottom of the case. That way as the case gets set down or chucked around by baggage handlers the weight of the rifle isn't being absorbed by the scope. May never make a difference in real life, but it just makes more sense to me to have the scope up when carrying the case.
Nice video, thanks. He left out the ammo though. Cut out a space for a box or two of ammo. I've never had TSA check any serial numbers in years of gun travel (domestic). Every now and then they do ask to take the firearms out and show it's unloaded, which always makes for an awkward situation, pulling your rifle out of the case in a line of people at the airport.
I did this one for a safe under my truck seat. Turned out pretty good The Havalon knives with replaceable scalpel blades work just fine for detail work, just lay the foam on the floor or a hard work table and make plunging vertical cuts. Checking SN#'s isnt always a TSA requirement, but should be a personal accountability check when you get your case back in your hands on the other side. If you leave the airport and then find out shit is missing thats more difficult to prove. Its not that hard to open those cases without picking locks.
I've found that the Havalons or similar work pretty well on closed-cell foams, but I've found my results to be absolutely horrible on the regular open-cell pelican foam.
Thanks for sharing! I’m in the process of planning my cases and this helped tremendously. Now is I can just decide on what cases to use lol
I've been giving foam case inserts a lot of thought lately, and may have a suggestion (which I have not yet, but will soon be trying myself).
My understanding is that the foam being used is usually of the open cell variety. My internet searches seems to also reveal that this type of foam attract and retains moisture, and may be leading to corrosion issues. If I am wrong about this, I'd welcome a heads-up.
Well, I recently attended another Comics (etc.) Fan Fest in Phoenix, and locked onto the foam being used in Cosplay costumes. It
is a closed cell foam being describes as EVA foam. It's the stuff you see being used for comfort floor mats, and most of us have walked on it often without even realizing it.
It tends to be stiffer than open cell foam, also works well for cheek rests, etc., and is readily available from craft suppliers, Amazon, and the like, but may be most easily obtained form automotive body shops. It may also be less attractive and retentive regarding moisture.
I think it may have value in shooting applications (including as self-healing targets, and target backers), suggest it be investigated for possible applications in our activities.
Greg
My understanding is that the foam being used is usually of the open cell variety. My internet searches seems to also reveal that this type of foam attract and retains moisture, and may be leading to corrosion issues. If I am wrong about this, I'd welcome a heads-up.
Well, I recently attended another Comics (etc.) Fan Fest in Phoenix, and locked onto the foam being used in Cosplay costumes. It
is a closed cell foam being describes as EVA foam. It's the stuff you see being used for comfort floor mats, and most of us have walked on it often without even realizing it.
It tends to be stiffer than open cell foam, also works well for cheek rests, etc., and is readily available from craft suppliers, Amazon, and the like, but may be most easily obtained form automotive body shops. It may also be less attractive and retentive regarding moisture.
I think it may have value in shooting applications (including as self-healing targets, and target backers), suggest it be investigated for possible applications in our activities.
Greg
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One tip I recently found with cutting foam (didn't see mentioned above) is coating the foam with "Plastic Dip" spray (found on amazon). Throw 4-5 coats of that on the foam, and it really firms the foam up and prevents/delays the fraying that usually happens after you cut and/or place your guns a few times.
We cut foam with our laser. Is excellent for cutting custom ammo containers and rifle shaping in big cases
Good video. I guess the old electric knife Carver from the 80s I was using wasn't to great so I ended up using a jigsaw which yielded great results. Also used a silver washable marker so I can better see my outline. I tried to do the whole mirroring thing but my inability to cut straight down into the foam resulted in the underside looking sloppy and not form fitting around the edges. 
Great video.
Is there any consideration to cutting out the foam so that the rifle optic is facing 'up' (away from the hinge side) when carrying the case by the side handle? Or is the weight distributed enough along get length to not to worry about it? This would mean cutting the foam so that the rifle is 'upside down' while facing the case as it's open.
I'm probably overthinking this...
Is there any consideration to cutting out the foam so that the rifle optic is facing 'up' (away from the hinge side) when carrying the case by the side handle? Or is the weight distributed enough along get length to not to worry about it? This would mean cutting the foam so that the rifle is 'upside down' while facing the case as it's open.
I'm probably overthinking this...
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Nice. However, I’m fortunate enough to live reasonably close to a family-run shop that has a water jet cutter. Made short work of very nice cuts for a couple of our AR cases. My son’s SBR with a 10.5” 5.56 upper as well as an 8.5” 300BLK running an AAC SD-N6 can under the carbon fiber hand guard.
Craptaculous pics of my most oft-used rifle for popping varmints out on the ranch. Just a regular 16” 5.56...lot’s of good parts in this one though:
Have a couple more for other rifles but can’t find pics right now... Quality work at reasonable prices (about $100 each) by San Marcos waterjet if you happen to live near Austin/San Antonio, TX.
And bonus toys for the kids!
Craptaculous pics of my most oft-used rifle for popping varmints out on the ranch. Just a regular 16” 5.56...lot’s of good parts in this one though:
Have a couple more for other rifles but can’t find pics right now... Quality work at reasonable prices (about $100 each) by San Marcos waterjet if you happen to live near Austin/San Antonio, TX.
And bonus toys for the kids!
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Notes on foam:
The soft “foam rubber” like a mattress rebounds rather sharply from impact, whereas stiff foam (closed cell?) generally holds things in place better. An expensive instrument company I deal with shifted from the soft “grey gun case foam” inserts to the stiffer “cut-closed cell” type, resulting in zero shipping damage.
Regardless, I fog whatever foam with a quality corrosion inhibitor, even long term full contact storage has shown zero rust.
The soft “foam rubber” like a mattress rebounds rather sharply from impact, whereas stiff foam (closed cell?) generally holds things in place better. An expensive instrument company I deal with shifted from the soft “grey gun case foam” inserts to the stiffer “cut-closed cell” type, resulting in zero shipping damage.
Regardless, I fog whatever foam with a quality corrosion inhibitor, even long term full contact storage has shown zero rust.
Recently purchased a over and under shot gun at Griffen and Howe which came with a foamed lined case, they stated never put the gun in the case if it was wet for it would never dry out. I also had a problem leaving a black anodized rifle in the factory box which had soft foam in it and it started to turned the black anodized white. It was covered in a white haze , lucky a rub down with oil restore the black color.
