Did I ruin my barrels?

[kRcu]

Have two new barrels that I was removing muzzle devices from, to switch over the Area 419 system, and noted the ends of the threads look f@cked up. Method of removal was butane torch while slow-roasting the brake over the flame, rotesserie style.

1. What would cause galling on new barrel threads?

2. Can this be remedied without re-cutting and re-threading?

I have never had this happen before. Just wondering if I caused this by improperly removing the devices. Thoughts?

 

[redneckbmxer24]

That’s really bad, not sure how you could do that removing a brake unless you use a jackhammer to do the job. Is there any damages to the threads of the brake? Did the break thread on smooth when they went on the first time?

I set my brakes with red loctite and use a heat gun to bring them up to about 800 degrees when I have to pull them.

 

[Waorani]

Looks like damage from initial assembly.

 

[Bradu]

I would just have a smith clean it up. By the looks of it, you won't have to worry about losing any length. Was it hard to screw off the whole time or just towards the end? Stainless galls pretty easily.

 

[XLR308]

Check the thread depth on your brake, it looks like the may have bottomed out slightly when initially installed if there isn't a relief cut at the bottom of the threads.

 

[kRcu]

I would just have a smith clean it up. By the looks of it, you won't have to worry about losing any length. Was it hard to screw off the whole time or just towards the end? Stainless galls pretty easily.

After about 270 degrees of turn, it got harder. First few quarter turns were easy.

That’s really bad, not sure how you could do that removing a brake unless you use a jackhammer to do the job. Is there any damages to the threads of the brake? Did the break thread on smooth when they went on the first time?

I set my brakes with red loctite and use a heat gun to bring them up to about 800 degrees when I have to pull them.

Brakes have similar damage, far inside of the brake. The brakes were installed at the smith, so I never put them on.

 

[IHFarmer07]

It don't look like your barrel is damaged as far as accuracy wise the way I see it, its just your threads. Deburr the end of your barrel and run a tap and die die over your threads, put anti seize on your threads and then your gtg.....
On stainless steel if you tighten it too tight it will gall and essentially cold weld the two pieces together and then you will have issues that you WILL have to either cut the brake off or cut the threads off with the brake......not good at this point, heating probably won't even work and damage to the barrels accuracy could be damaged.

 

[kRcu]

I’m going to get them out to the smith tomorrow and hopefully it’s a quick fix. Thanks guys.

 

[Waorani]

There are "smiths" and then there are honest to goodness Gunsmiths.

 

[IHFarmer07]

After about 270 degrees of turn, it got harder. First few quarter turns were easy.



Brakes have similar damage, far inside of the brake. The brakes were installed at the smith, so I never put them on. View attachment 6994868View attachment 6994867

Run a bottoming tap in there with PLENTY cutting oil/tap and die oil and it will be fine. Those threads don't look that bad at all, I've seen worse. Make sure you put anti seize on you threads!!! It is your friend or don't tighten it too tight.

 

[Bradu]

Almost looks like the barrel bottomed out on the brake by looking at the picture

 

[kRcu]

There are "smiths" and then there are honest to goodness Gunsmiths.

This smith is the latter for sure..no question about that.

 

[IHFarmer07]

Almost looks like the barrel bottomed out on the brake by looking at the picture

Yes I believe you are right on the second picture of post #7, it does look like the threads were too long on the barrel for the brake, good catch.

 

[XLR308]

This smith is the latter for sure..no question about that.

Maybe but everyone makes a mistake occasionally, and by the looks of it the goof was on him.
See post #6 and compare

 

[308pirate]

Anyone worth there salt on a Lathe can fix that issue looks haggard now but easily fixable barrel

Don't even need to chuck it up. I can clean that up with a thread file.

 

[kRcu]

Maybe but everyone makes a mistake occasionally, and by the looks of it the goof was on him.
See post #6 and compare

For sure. I will definitely check to see if the brake bottomed out.

 

[TheGerman]

Totally ruined them.

PM me for mailing address and I will dispose of them for you.

 

[Kiba]

I've seen worse on the lead in thread on the tenon after removing a few barrels from other rifles...

The crowns look to be OK, at this point you just want to clean up that last thread so the new Area 419 adapters thread on cleanly without further galling or thread pulling. I'd clean up the boogered last thread with the appropriate chaser or thread file followed by buffing with a wire wheel, then install the new adapters with anti-seize. Hell, you could even hold the barrel up to a belt sander at a 45 degree angle while spinning it to chamfer that last thread and clean it up.

 

[kRcu]

Is it ok to just use thread locker? They’ll have cans on them and want to make sure they are on properly.

 

[IHFarmer07]

Is it ok to just use thread locker? They’ll have cans on them and want to make sure they are on properly.

What color, blue or red?
You can try anti seize and lock it down tighter or have a lock nut to lock it down instead.....I hate putting lock tight on things that cost a lot to replace

 

[kRcu]

What color, blue or red?
You can try anti seize and lock it down tighter or have a lock nut to lock it down instead.....I hate putting lock tight on things that cost a lot to replace

Usually red for the barrel threads, to the brake. I use anti-seize on suppressor threads obviously.

 

[srt-4_uk]

What color, blue or red?
You can try anti seize and lock it down tighter or have a lock nut to lock it down instead.....I hate putting lock tight on things that cost a lot to replace

A lock nut for a suppressor mount?

 

[newguy2k3v2]

Looks like he tightened it down dry and it galled. Always put something on it, especially stainless. Even thread locker acts as a lubricant during assembly.

Eta:On second look probably bottomed out inside the adapter and deformed the last thread. Clean it up and it'll be fine.

 

[IHFarmer07]

Usually red for the barrel threads, to the brake. I use anti-seize on suppressor threads obviously.

If it was my gun I would not feel comfortable heating my barrel like that....I don't see why blue wouldn't work. Up to you

 

[IHFarmer07]

A lock nut for a suppressor mount?

Ya, lots of people use lock nut/jam nuts for muzzle brakes and that's more or less what it is. I have jam/lock nuts on the rifles that have brakes, they work great. You can use anti seize then and never gull the threads with a jam nut.

 

[Kiba]

Is it ok to just use thread locker? They’ll have cans on them and want to make sure they are on properly.

Thread locker is fine, just makes it more of a bitch to remove down the road and if it's a stainless brake and stainless barrel it increases the risk for galling. However, I believe the Area 419 adapters are nitrided, so they'll be substantially harder than the bare stainless barrel and the dissimilarity in hardness should prevent galling if and when you remove the adapters. I'd suggest heating the Area 419 adapter with a heat gun to soften the thread locker before removing them.

 

[IHFarmer07]

Sometimes even the gun powder residue will act as a thread locker and cause corrosion of both items and then makes it that much more of a b!tch to take off.

 

[srt-4_uk]

Ya, lots of people use lock nut/jam nuts for muzzle brakes and that's more or less what it is. I have jam/lock nuts on the rifles that have brakes, they work great. You can use anti seize then and never gull the threads with a jam nut.

on a brake, sure. But the muzzle device for a suppressor mount needs a flat shoulder to index off of to keep alignment for the suppressor.

 

[IHFarmer07]

on a brake, sure. But the muzzle device for a suppressor mount needs a flat shoulder to index off of to keep alignment for the suppressor.

You may learn me something here as I've never been around suppressors/mounts for them or am I'm missing something but there is flat spots to index on most everything here and on the OP's pictures.....I honestly don't what your talking about with indexing a suppressor mount, I assumed you didn't need to index a suppressor or mount, but we all know what assuming means lol.

 

[srt-4_uk]

thread a brake on half way. You will feel some wobble on the brake. Depending on which thread specs the barrel have and the brake has, there can be a lot of wobble or a little wobble. The shoulder of the barrel is perpendicular to the bore so keep the brake straight when tightened down against it. If the shoulder was a little off, you will deflect the brake a few degrees. Not a big deal normally but when you put a suppressor on, that small angle of deflection can result in a baffle strike.

 

[IHFarmer07]

thread a brake on half way. You will feel some wobble on the brake. Depending on which thread specs the barrel have and the brake has, there can be a lot of wobble or a little wobble. The shoulder of the barrel is perpendicular to the bore so keep the brake straight when tightened down against it. If the shoulder was a little off, you will deflect the brake a few degrees. Not a big deal normally but when you put a suppressor on, that small angle of deflection can result in a baffle strike.

I see what your saying....good point, thanks!