I really wish they made a 6 mm bullet dropper. I've tried using a 6.5 mm and experimenting with the little bearings. Using two or using two 6.5 bearings and then a 223 bearing. Just wasn't reliable enough to use all the time.
- Thread starter padom
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I started using the Dillon carbide.223 sizing die on my 1050. A light spray of Dillon lube and it feels like sizing 9mm. Cranked through over a 1000 rounds in a little over an hour.
The difference in fatigue factor is nice.
I size and prime on tool head number one. Then trim brass on the giraud.
Processed brass is then loaded in tool head -2.
Armonov powder funnel, Redding competition seating die and Dillon crimp die.
The difference in fatigue factor is nice.
I size and prime on tool head number one. Then trim brass on the giraud.
Processed brass is then loaded in tool head -2.
Armonov powder funnel, Redding competition seating die and Dillon crimp die.
Hello, Needing some help.
I have. Dillon 1100 for 5.56. I using a Redding seat die with the micrometer. I can load 55gn hoser ammo just fine but started to load 77gn Sierra Match Kings and the bullet is hitting the seat die after the bullet feeder station. I can’t raise the die because I have the micrometer bottomed out. I’m using Ram Shot Tac going for 23.5-24 grains of powder and using an OAL of 2.250. Is there another way to load this longer bullet on an 1100! Thanks in advance for taking the time to
read and respond to my post!
I have. Dillon 1100 for 5.56. I using a Redding seat die with the micrometer. I can load 55gn hoser ammo just fine but started to load 77gn Sierra Match Kings and the bullet is hitting the seat die after the bullet feeder station. I can’t raise the die because I have the micrometer bottomed out. I’m using Ram Shot Tac going for 23.5-24 grains of powder and using an OAL of 2.250. Is there another way to load this longer bullet on an 1100! Thanks in advance for taking the time to
read and respond to my post!
I had similar issues on my Super 1050 trying to use sliding sleeve match dies.
Not enough "workspace" for .308 or 30-06. I even tried machining down the sleeve length.
Only match die of that design I can run is .223 but I think the S1050 has more "workspace" than its later iterations.
Interested if someone found a workaround.
I recall adding micrometer seating stems to my standard dies now that I think about it.
It's been so long since I reloaded .308-30/06.
Pretty sure I put a Redding seating stem on either one or both dies.
Not as nice as the sliding insert competition dies but it gave some reference for seating.
It's been so long since I reloaded .308-30/06.
Pretty sure I put a Redding seating stem on either one or both dies.
Not as nice as the sliding insert competition dies but it gave some reference for seating.
Kind of depends if you are trimming with the rapid Trim.
I do an initial size with a Dillon die to knock the primer out and have the ball unscrew any dented necks.
But I only about 80% the first sizing. What percent is a guess. They wouldn’t chamber is the thing.
I use a rapid trim to finish size. The trim die is tight though I only want it set to the point it will allow brass to chamber and even than I have to run a neck die to reopen the necks from the tight RT die.
If not trimming on the S1050 I’d think it could be a one die operation.
I do an initial size with a Dillon die to knock the primer out and have the ball unscrew any dented necks.
But I only about 80% the first sizing. What percent is a guess. They wouldn’t chamber is the thing.
I use a rapid trim to finish size. The trim die is tight though I only want it set to the point it will allow brass to chamber and even than I have to run a neck die to reopen the necks from the tight RT die.
If not trimming on the S1050 I’d think it could be a one die operation.
This
If not trimming, single die is all you need. If your trimming, I use a MA FL Gold sizing die but also used a Forster FL and Dillon Carbide 223 in the past. This sizes the die 90% or so to get it real close. I then have the FL trim die setup to set final bump and trim to length.... I found, because of the amount of force it took to do 100% sizing in the trim die, the trim length was not 100% consistent. It was close, and acceptable, but not 100%. Took a lot more force to do everything in the trim die.
Press runs so much smoother with the 2 die setup as mentioned above when using an RT1500 trimming on press.. I ALWAYS use a 21st century mandrel right after the trim die to set final neck tension because that trim die sets WAY too much neck tension.....
Thanks. Definitely not trimming on press. I’m experimenting with BRA sizing. So trimming is basically once in the brass lifetime. I don’t mind the separate step there. I’m just looking to save time for the day to day tasks.
When using a separate prep and load stage, does anyone run into issues NOT resizing on station 1 during the load phase? For some reason I thought it was important to have a resizer in place and I don’t have the experience to know one way or the other.
If not resizing in station 1, do you have anything in that station?
If not resizing in station 1, do you have anything in that station?
I have decap in station one. (Mighty Armory with the guide bushing) Clears any leftover tumbling media from the flash hole. It’s not necessary though. I run my size die out in station 2 in brass prep mode with the decap pin removed/retracted. I don’t deal with crimped brass so my swage is backed totally off.
I butchered my Redding comp seating die sleeve to make it work on my 1050 loading 308.
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What I did to get 300prc going on the 650
Installed a tnt burly shell plate. Nice product. Runs smooth.
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