Dillon xl750 is there slop in ram like the 650xl?

[Kocher]

i’ve had a Dylan XL 650 bought it brand new and should’ve paid more attention as to where and why the cases were not lining up with the dies. whether it’s rifle or straight wall pistol brass it does not lineup with the center of each station.

.

Does the XL 750 fix this? Did they add a bronze bushing so that there’s not slop in the ram?


Looks like the XL 750 is basically the same except they change the primer system.


FYI, my case feeder even has a warp in the bottom half where I had to add thin card stock to level it out so the brass cases will not keep falling out of the feeder before it got to the drop spot.

I should’ve boxed it up and brought it back immediately. Now it’s past that point obviously as this is now a discontinued model and they’ve moved onto this XL 750

I’ve got a ticket with DILLAN we’ll see what they say. I’ve done everything, including adding thin bushings to the left side of the bottom of the ram pin holder… this helps to twist or force the head to the left …




I get that this is not a very expensive press in the grand scheme of things…
a misaligned, drilled or bored hole even with a bushing will still be a misaligned .. to whatever side it was drilled/bored off center on…. the slop would be reduced because it would be a much tighter fitting piece.. It doesn’t have to be like a crank and Conrod , as this is not turning at 5,000 rps… so a bronze bushing would work just fine. I would pay an extra hundred dollars or even 200 for that bronze bushing to be machined and squeezed in there for a better fit..

 

[Jrb572]

You can adjust that out

 

[Huskydriver]

i’ve had a Dylan XL 650 bought it brand new and should’ve paid more attention as to where and why the cases were not lining up with the dies. whether it’s rifle or straight wall pistol brass it does not lineup with the center of each station.

I should’ve boxed it up and brought it back immediately. Now it’s past that point obviously as this is now a discontinued model and they’ve moved onto this XL 750.

Does the XL 750 fix this? Did they add a bronze bushing so that there’s not slop in the ram?


Looks like the XL 750 is basically the same except they change the primer system.



l

You do realize that's intentional and you can eliminate the issue?

Float the dies and clamp the heads

 

[Jrb572]

contact Dillon. They will help or fix it

 

[Threadcutter308]

contact Dillon. They will help or fix it

Yep, call Dillon.

IIRC, there is also an alignment pin (I may evern have one (?)) that is used to get everything to line up. I have two 650's and haven't really had any problems with them. As good as dillon is, there are a few funky things about their design though. The primer feed has been re-designed, hence the 750. But, mine work pretty well. They just need some loving once in a while.

 

[Kocher]

 

[Kocher]

Yep, call Dillon.

IIRC, there is also an alignment pin (I may evern have one (?)) that is used to get everything to line up. I have two 650's and haven't really had any problems with them. As good as dillon is, there are a few funky things about their design though. The primer feed has been re-designed, hence the 750. But, mine work pretty well. They just need some loving once in a while.

Is this an aftermarket piece that someone sells?

 

[Kocher]

never mind it looks like it was something that came with a kit. I don’t know if I have it or not but it looks just like it’s a piece that fits in the powder drop and you basically trying to line that up when you tighten things down.

I attempted this with loosening the case holder plate or ram rod head whatever it’s called and it didn’t change a whole lot. It may have made it a tiny bit better, but it only allows for a little bit of movement….

I can physically put a lefty Lucy pressure on the reloading arm, when I’m pulling it down and that’ll get some movement as well. It’s almost like a twisting motion, but it only does so much. I may try and loosen the control arms rather than tightening them and I might be able to get more twist action in it But again this is just going to cause more premature wear on everything…

Hopefully Dylan will get this right…

I an contemplating just picking up a 750 XL today and put this one aside while it gets shipped back-and-forth or whatever amount of time it’ll take to get this one running properly and sell it once it is.

The mark seven Apex 10 looks solid yet looks quite expensive for just simple caliber in case changes..

There’s not many reloading presses that are as versatile as the Dillons are…

 

[Jrb572]

never mind it looks like it was something that came with a kit. I don’t know if I have it or not but it looks just like it’s a piece that fits in the powder drop and you basically trying to line that up when you tighten things down.

I attempted this with loosening the case holder plate or ram rod head whatever it’s called and it didn’t change a whole lot. It may have made it a tiny bit better, but it only allows for a little bit of movement….

I can physically put a lefty Lucy pressure on the reloading arm, when I’m pulling it down and that’ll get some movement as well. It’s almost like a twisting motion, but it only does so much. I may try and loosen the control arms rather than tightening them and I might be able to get more twist action in it But again this is just going to cause more premature wear on everything…

Hopefully Dylan will get this right…

I an contemplating just picking up a 750 XL today and put this one aside while it gets shipped back-and-forth or whatever amount of time it’ll take to get this one running properly and sell it once it is.

The mark seven Apex 10 looks solid yet looks quite expensive for just simple caliber in case changes..

There’s not many reloading presses that are as versatile as the Dillons are…

I’m pretty sure a 750 is a 650 with an updated primer system and that’s it

 

[Jrb572]

Mine has this aftermarket thing but I’m almost positive you can move the factory one back and forth for case alignment also

 

[Threadcutter308]

never mind it looks like it was something that came with a kit. I don’t know if I have it or not but it looks just like it’s a piece that fits in the powder drop and you basically trying to line that up when you tighten things down.

I attempted this with loosening the case holder plate or ram rod head whatever it’s called and it didn’t change a whole lot. It may have made it a tiny bit better, but it only allows for a little bit of movement….

I can physically put a lefty Lucy pressure on the reloading arm, when I’m pulling it down and that’ll get some movement as well. It’s almost like a twisting motion, but it only does so much. I may try and loosen the control arms rather than tightening them and I might be able to get more twist action in it But again this is just going to cause more premature wear on everything…

Hopefully Dylan will get this right…

I an contemplating just picking up a 750 XL today and put this one aside while it gets shipped back-and-forth or whatever amount of time it’ll take to get this one running properly and sell it once it is.

The mark seven Apex 10 looks solid yet looks quite expensive for just simple caliber in case changes..

There’s not many reloading presses that are as versatile as the Dillons are…

It's been so long since I aligned either machine, I've forgotten most of the details. I seem to remember there are instructions on how to do it. IIRC, it was pretty simple and straightforward.

The instructions are either in the XL650 manual itself, or they are separate, for the alignment tool. Check out the Dillon support pages for the manual(s) on their website.

Product Videos | XL650

Dillon Precision: Reloaders, Reloading Equipment, Bullet Reloading, Bullet Reloaders

www.dillonprecision.com

Also, they offer a complete machine teardown, cleaning, rebuild and calibration service. I had this done to one of my machines and I was ecstatic. It was a screaming deal;

XL650/XL750 Service & Refurbishment

Services include 1. Disassembly + Solvent Tank Bath 2. Detailed Inspection & Replacement of Worn Out Parts 3. Re-assembly and Full Machine Lubrication 4. Testing all Pertinent Systems, Including Machine Timing 5. OEM Packaged and Shipped Right Back to You What about shipping? Pricing for...

www.dillonprecision.com

I'd still recommend that you go thrrough the process of figuring out how to time the machine yourself. If you ever do a teardown, clean/re-assembly, you'll need to know how to do it. Call Dillon. They'll get you pointed in the right direction.

 

[Threadcutter308]

Mine has this aftermarket thing but I’m almost positive you can move the factory one back and forth for case alignment alsoView attachment 8683822

Yes, this (lateral) adjustment determines where the shellplate stops.

 

[Threadcutter308]

Oh, and the spare parts kits are worth their weight in gold.

 

[Kocher]

Mine has this aftermarket thing but I’m almost positive you can move the factory one back and forth for case alignment alsoView attachment 8683822

Oh, that’s kinda nice. I’ll take a picture of mine. I’ve used mine so much that the metal is actually worn. I’ve replaced several of the advancement plastic brawl thing jiggy because that gets jammed up and breaks when you get powder up in the top part.

that doesn’t look to be anything with alignment, though that will help make advancement smoother yet the plates only going to stop and rest where the ball detent is

I had a massive groove worn in my case advancement part thing so I filled it with some hard, marineepoxy!

Many many thousands of rounds later I don’t see any wear or groove pattern since!

 

[Jrb572]

Is the plastic indexing arm above the red circled part worn out? That would probably cause an issue. Mine about a month ago would not always index far enough and clip a case going into station one sizing die. I adjusted that red circled part just a touch and it’s run flawlessly ever since.

 

[Jrb572]

The only thing by going 750 is going to get you an updated primer system. I would get a spare parts kit from Dillon or call and I bet they would walk you through adjusting it. Only upgrade in press would be going 1050 or I think it’s an 1100 now.

 

[Kocher]

You are correct there is a tiny bit of a movement that you can adjust when an indexes.. but it appears it is the hole they drilled or machine with a knee milll.. through the press , but you have to physically pull the entire head assembly to the left for it order to lineup.

If I could line it up just right I’d put the Rod/ram it in my heavy duty frame press and bend the ram so that everything lined up

 

[Jrb572]

That black plastic thing in your second photo has something to do with indexing also. Like @Threadcutter308 said it’s been so long since I messed with indexing mine. I’m just guessing. But Call Dillon don’t waste your money unless you just want a new press

 

[Jrb572]

I’ll leave this from their site

 

[Threadcutter308]

That black plastic thing in your second photo has something to do with indexing also. Like @Threadcutter308 said it’s been so long since I messed with indexing mine. I’m just guessing. But Call Dillon don’t waste your money unless you just want a new press

Also, go to the Dillon webpage that I listed above and watch the videos. There's a wealth of information there.

And yes, if you are hell bent on a new press, go to the 1050/100 and skip the 750. But, keep in mind that you'll still have to be making adjustments with them as well. The 650's are good machines,but like most other things, they require periodic maintenance and adjustment. Personally, I think you're better off getting the alignment part of the 650 figured out and to stick with the 650. You'll certainly be money ahead.

 

[Threadcutter308]

That black plastic thing in your second photo has something to do with indexing also. Like @Threadcutter308 said it’s been so long since I messed with indexing mine. I’m just guessing. But Call Dillon don’t waste your money unless you just want a new press

IIRC, it's called a "Ring Indexer". I have broken one or two of them in the past. I'm fairly certain that the reason they make them out of plastic is that they want them to be sacrificial, so that other, more expensive parts don't break if a serious jam up occurs. I also seem to recall it's about the same cost as the complete spare parts kit, which includes one ring indexer. So.....buying the spare parts kit is a no brainer.

I've had one of my 650's for over 25 years and even with some of the quirks, it's still a pretty damned good machine.

 

[Jrb572]

IIRC, it's called a "Ring Indexer". I have broken one or two of them in the past. I'm fairly certain that the reason they make them out of plastic is that they want them to be sacrificial, so that other, more expensive parts don't break if a serious jam up occurs. I also seem to recall it's about the same cost as the complete spare parts kit, which includes one ring indexer. So.....buying the spare parts kit is a no brainer.

I've had one of my 650's for over 25 years and even with some of the quirks, it's still a pretty damned good machine.

I think I’ve had mine just shy of your time. I’ve had it for around 20 years. I like it a lot and I even us it to load some long range stuff. I’ve got no complaints about mine. If I had to send it back for the $150 dollar cleaning,adjustments I would in a heartbeat.

 

[Threadcutter308]

I think I’ve had mine just shy of your time. I’ve had it for around 20 years. I like it a lot and I even us it to load some long range stuff. I’ve got no complaints about mine. If I had to send it back for the $150 dollar cleaning,adjustments I would in a heartbeat.

I don't recall for sure, but I have it in the back of my mind that they did all the cleaning/work/re-assembly and also sent a new powder measure back with it.

Like I said, it was an absolute screaming deal. It did come back to me with some new parts at no additional cost, I do know that much.

I have two 650's. One is set up for 9mm and the other one is set up for .45 ACP. Each 650 has an Autodrive on it. Everything has to be dialed in correctly and you have to watch them like a hawk when they are running. They will put out a lot of good ammunition quickly. But, if you're not watching and something goes haywire, they will put out a lot of bad ammunition quickly.

 

[Kocher]

Is the plastic indexing arm above the red circled part worn out? That would probably cause an issue. Mine about a month ago would not always index far enough and clip a case going into station one sizing die. I adjusted that red circled part just a touch and it’s run flawlessly ever since.

I appreciate all the responses and the time you spent to help me out…

I even tried removing the ball detent and manually slightly moving the plate/brass case holder and no matter what position I put it in it would not lineup properly

I also tried moving case in and out on the rotating brass plate holder.

(I’ve been running out into the garage trying these adjustments on the Dylan 650 XL as I posted, as I wanted to make sure I didn’t miss something)

Unfortunately, the only way for the cases to line up , is if you push or pull the ram head to the left. It will line up perfectly every time…

 

[Kocher]

Thanks again, guys for all the responses and input we’ll see what Dillon says on Monday..

 

[Kocher]

I don't recall for sure, but I have it in the back of my mind that they did all the cleaning/work/re-assembly and also sent a new powder measure back with it.

Like I said, it was an absolute screaming deal. It did come back to me with some new parts at no additional cost, I do know that much.

I have two 650's. One is set up for 9mm and the other one is set up for .45 ACP. Each 650 has an Autodrive on it. Everything has to be dialed in correctly and you have to watch them like a hawk when the are running. They will put out a lot of good ammunition quickly. But, if you're not watching and something goes haywire, they will put ou a lot of bad ammunition quickly.

very nice Set up

 

[chd]

Might be worth checking out Armanov for some upgrades though.

Dillon XL650 Upgrades | Armanov Shop

Upgrade your Dillon XL650 press with ease! Check out our top-quality aftermarket parts and accessories designed to enhance your reloading experience.

www.armanov.com