Has anyone ever had any issues with direct connect suppressors loosening. during fire? I'm particularly wondering about direct connect on an AR.
Thanks
Thanks
Suppressors Direct connect problems??
- Thread starter jakhamr81
- Start date
Re: Direct connect problems??
It happens all the time...you just have to check tightness every once in a while. Unless of course there are flats on the suppressor for a wrench.
It happens all the time...you just have to check tightness every once in a while. Unless of course there are flats on the suppressor for a wrench.
Re: Direct connect problems??
It's why they put witness marks on them for guys in the military so you can look up and see the index point is matching.
It happens, unless you leave it on all the time and it gets welded with carbon, then it stays on nice and tight
It's why they put witness marks on them for guys in the military so you can look up and see the index point is matching.
It happens, unless you leave it on all the time and it gets welded with carbon, then it stays on nice and tight
Re: Direct connect problems??
In an effort to keep my SBR as short and lightweight as possible, I am considering a direct connect suppressor. I was looking at the Gemtech Trek Titanium. It is advertised as full auto rated, and while I will not be shooting it full auto, I will be shooting it at very high rates of fire. It is Inconel and Titanium constructed, so I feel that it will be able to handle my rates of fire.
My only concern was the can working its way loose. Someone else I was talking to today mentioned that their is a company that makes a precision machined lock washer that would prevent the can from coming loose.
In an effort to keep my SBR as short and lightweight as possible, I am considering a direct connect suppressor. I was looking at the Gemtech Trek Titanium. It is advertised as full auto rated, and while I will not be shooting it full auto, I will be shooting it at very high rates of fire. It is Inconel and Titanium constructed, so I feel that it will be able to handle my rates of fire.
My only concern was the can working its way loose. Someone else I was talking to today mentioned that their is a company that makes a precision machined lock washer that would prevent the can from coming loose.
Re: Direct connect problems??
You are not really supposed to use a washer on a thread on can. If they are not perfectly symmetrical all the way around and throws your can off by just a bit...... baffle strike.
You are not really supposed to use a washer on a thread on can. If they are not perfectly symmetrical all the way around and throws your can off by just a bit...... baffle strike.
Re: Direct connect problems??
Guys. Full stop.
Do not use teflon tape.
The best solution is to use a product called Rockset and back it up with witness marks like LL suggested. Doesn't matter where you get it or who's brand. This stuff is extremely heat resistant and will hold the suppressor on there without issue no matter how hot it gets. It is extremely fragile when it comes to torque. Meaning it will unscrew if you use your man hands and really try.
Under most firing conditions it will work just fine. And if you ever need to remove it you can do so without tools.
Guys. Full stop.
Do not use teflon tape.
The best solution is to use a product called Rockset and back it up with witness marks like LL suggested. Doesn't matter where you get it or who's brand. This stuff is extremely heat resistant and will hold the suppressor on there without issue no matter how hot it gets. It is extremely fragile when it comes to torque. Meaning it will unscrew if you use your man hands and really try.
Under most firing conditions it will work just fine. And if you ever need to remove it you can do so without tools.
Re: Direct connect problems??
Rocksett would probably be my first choice if I were going to leave the can attached.
However, I must ask, why not use teflon tape if someone is going to be constantly using then removing the can? It's been used for years by suppressor users who remove their cans after shooting. Several manufacturers have recommended it's use as well.
Rocksett would probably be my first choice if I were going to leave the can attached.
However, I must ask, why not use teflon tape if someone is going to be constantly using then removing the can? It's been used for years by suppressor users who remove their cans after shooting. Several manufacturers have recommended it's use as well.
Re: Direct connect problems??
A lot of guys clean their 22lr suppressors in the bathroom and pour the lead down the drain and into the water supply where they live. Doesn't make it a good idea. But it works. You've met them at the range. Where do you think they are doing this cleaning?
I'm all about nailing it right the first time. That way I only have to mess with it again if I want to.
I'm sure you could use wood glue and it would work. Or even packing tape.
We used to use teflon tape in paintball for our air fittings and then completely stopped. We found that little whisps would get shoved inside the threaded section and then would make their way through the internals. We also found that when the junction was unscrewed it was sometimes hard to get all the compressed and now shredded tape shards out of the inside without losing some to go through the internals.
In paintball we switched to blue thread locker. Specifically the gel. Found if it was allowed to setup in the presence of air it would form a white colored gasket material that was fairly sticky and stayed put. Then you screw it together.
This solution will also work better than your teflon tape. Don't get me wrong, teflon tape is a better idea than wood glue. But it's not the <span style="text-decoration: underline">best</span> idea. Not enough wraps and it has a tendency to not work too well. Or get too think and it will prevent full threading and seating to occur.
A lot of guys clean their 22lr suppressors in the bathroom and pour the lead down the drain and into the water supply where they live. Doesn't make it a good idea. But it works. You've met them at the range. Where do you think they are doing this cleaning?
I'm all about nailing it right the first time. That way I only have to mess with it again if I want to.
I'm sure you could use wood glue and it would work. Or even packing tape.
We used to use teflon tape in paintball for our air fittings and then completely stopped. We found that little whisps would get shoved inside the threaded section and then would make their way through the internals. We also found that when the junction was unscrewed it was sometimes hard to get all the compressed and now shredded tape shards out of the inside without losing some to go through the internals.
In paintball we switched to blue thread locker. Specifically the gel. Found if it was allowed to setup in the presence of air it would form a white colored gasket material that was fairly sticky and stayed put. Then you screw it together.
This solution will also work better than your teflon tape. Don't get me wrong, teflon tape is a better idea than wood glue. But it's not the <span style="text-decoration: underline">best</span> idea. Not enough wraps and it has a tendency to not work too well. Or get too think and it will prevent full threading and seating to occur.
Re: Direct connect problems??
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BachelorJack</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
We used to use teflon tape in paintball for our air fittings and then completely stopped. We found that little whisps would get shoved inside the threaded section and then would make their way through the internals. We also found that when the junction was unscrewed it was sometimes hard to get all the compressed and now shredded tape shards out of the inside without losing some to go through the internals.
</div></div>
This is not paintball... These are real guns; a little piece of Teflon tape is not going to induce a malfunction. I don't even believe that it would prevent you from fully seating your suppressor, and if I were worried about that, the index marks that Lowlight mentioned would take care of that too.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BachelorJack</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
We used to use teflon tape in paintball for our air fittings and then completely stopped. We found that little whisps would get shoved inside the threaded section and then would make their way through the internals. We also found that when the junction was unscrewed it was sometimes hard to get all the compressed and now shredded tape shards out of the inside without losing some to go through the internals.
</div></div>
This is not paintball... These are real guns; a little piece of Teflon tape is not going to induce a malfunction. I don't even believe that it would prevent you from fully seating your suppressor, and if I were worried about that, the index marks that Lowlight mentioned would take care of that too.
Re: Direct connect problems??
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Gunfighter14e2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Belleville, Spring Washers,... check the temp rating for your application. I use them on a 11.5" FA, never been a problem. </div></div>
This from a man who USES his can on a FA M16. Direct experience, all first hand. Listen....
All direct connect cans are INTENDED to come off, and most manufacturers will TELL you to use antiseize to be SURE you can TAKE IT OFF.
And those with real experience know that the best deal is a smith fitted thread to your can that has positive lock-up. For the rest of us who put a can on a factory barrel, welcome to the crap shoot.
Yes, I have a direct connect can on a factory AR barrel. I also have a washer on it and no danger of a baffle strike.
I read the above comments about this. Smart people use a wooden dowell rod to be sure of clearance when trying anything new on can mounting. Then they look to see the shadow you will see if the can is too close in line.
I have also burned the finish off two cans on AR's in rapid fire and FA fire. I never had a problem with cans coming loose because I KNEW they WOULD come loose and I put witness marks on them AND checked them between each string of fire. Each time they moved, back tight with a strap wrench.
I would never use anything to try to glue or affix the can to a barrel because when that happens and it welds itself on, you have a much bigger problem than a can getting loose, when all the operator has to do is be vigilant and check the equipment as needed.
All of the above is why I now run QD on all but two of my AR apps. Is also why the military prefers QD.
However: Each to their own based on their uses. Good luck to all of you.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Gunfighter14e2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Belleville, Spring Washers,... check the temp rating for your application. I use them on a 11.5" FA, never been a problem. </div></div>
This from a man who USES his can on a FA M16. Direct experience, all first hand. Listen....
All direct connect cans are INTENDED to come off, and most manufacturers will TELL you to use antiseize to be SURE you can TAKE IT OFF.
And those with real experience know that the best deal is a smith fitted thread to your can that has positive lock-up. For the rest of us who put a can on a factory barrel, welcome to the crap shoot.
Yes, I have a direct connect can on a factory AR barrel. I also have a washer on it and no danger of a baffle strike.
I read the above comments about this. Smart people use a wooden dowell rod to be sure of clearance when trying anything new on can mounting. Then they look to see the shadow you will see if the can is too close in line.
I have also burned the finish off two cans on AR's in rapid fire and FA fire. I never had a problem with cans coming loose because I KNEW they WOULD come loose and I put witness marks on them AND checked them between each string of fire. Each time they moved, back tight with a strap wrench.
I would never use anything to try to glue or affix the can to a barrel because when that happens and it welds itself on, you have a much bigger problem than a can getting loose, when all the operator has to do is be vigilant and check the equipment as needed.
All of the above is why I now run QD on all but two of my AR apps. Is also why the military prefers QD.
However: Each to their own based on their uses. Good luck to all of you.
Re: Direct connect problems??
Excellent post by Capt Huskey. I agree 100%.
Pay particular attention to his comments about the "crap shoot" with factory threads. I've seen this a lot where one barrel might have a slightly tighter thread spec than another. For example, a few years ago I was playing around with an AAC Ranger 2 on a Bushmaster carbine. The suppressor was working loose after less than 40 rounds of slow fire. It worked loose enough to stick two thick business cards between the shoulder and the back of the suppressor. The same exact suppressor was mounted on a Noveske barrel the next weekend for a carbine class and was run for 1500+ rounds without coming loose once.
Keep in mind most factory AR barrels are threaded with the intention of the user running something like a flash suppressor on the barrel. Those threads aren't necessarily cut for the purpose of something like a suppressor that requires more precision in the threading.
One more thing...I've seen a LOT of thread-mount suppressors from just about every manufacturer that had inconsistent threading. Meaning three of four of the same product all had threads that were cut to slightly different tolerances. Thus, you might have several of the same model of suppressor that all fit slightly differently.
Like the good Captain, for years I've also recommended "fast-attach" products on auto-loading, high cycle rate hosts because it is on those hosts that a direct/thread-mount product is more likely to work loose.
Excellent post by Capt Huskey. I agree 100%.
Pay particular attention to his comments about the "crap shoot" with factory threads. I've seen this a lot where one barrel might have a slightly tighter thread spec than another. For example, a few years ago I was playing around with an AAC Ranger 2 on a Bushmaster carbine. The suppressor was working loose after less than 40 rounds of slow fire. It worked loose enough to stick two thick business cards between the shoulder and the back of the suppressor. The same exact suppressor was mounted on a Noveske barrel the next weekend for a carbine class and was run for 1500+ rounds without coming loose once.
Keep in mind most factory AR barrels are threaded with the intention of the user running something like a flash suppressor on the barrel. Those threads aren't necessarily cut for the purpose of something like a suppressor that requires more precision in the threading.
One more thing...I've seen a LOT of thread-mount suppressors from just about every manufacturer that had inconsistent threading. Meaning three of four of the same product all had threads that were cut to slightly different tolerances. Thus, you might have several of the same model of suppressor that all fit slightly differently.
Like the good Captain, for years I've also recommended "fast-attach" products on auto-loading, high cycle rate hosts because it is on those hosts that a direct/thread-mount product is more likely to work loose.
Re: Direct connect problems??
You are correct about threads being inconsistant. That comes from manufactureres not using guages ($300-600 a guage.) But never with good suppressor companies. In fact if they screw up a direct set of threads they screw up QD threads and every other thread set as well. More parts more problems. Threads are NOT why cans come loose (shoulders maybe), cans come loose because operators don't properly attach them, seat them and maintain them. Period.
Silliness that a direct thread is a problem. For every single QD mounts in service there are twenty direct attach. Many many more directs than QD. Buy a quality suppressor and you will get perfect threads more than capable of a solid lock-up on a quality threaded host. In instances where heavy FA work is expected you have three choices. Leave it on until carbon locks it up exactly the same way it locks up a QD but without the huge consequences, use a whitness mark and tighten as needed, use the supplied cam-lock that comes with some quality direct attach suppressors.
I once asked this very question and was told "Sure, we get returns on cans that have a strike for a poorly mounted FA, but they are rare, much rarer than returns for cans that the operator feels requires more loosening torque than they feel comfortable doing to their own host. Strikes are less than 1%." Huskey is right.
By the way....what is the cost of repairing the typical "strike" on a quality, repairable can? Answer = $65 and that is only for operator error.
Crap cans have crap threads. Sell crap cans and they will have crap threads. Bookhound....what can companies do you see that have inconsistent threadings?
Jakhamer, buy quality, read the directions, manage the can, direct threads? No problem.
You are correct about threads being inconsistant. That comes from manufactureres not using guages ($300-600 a guage.) But never with good suppressor companies. In fact if they screw up a direct set of threads they screw up QD threads and every other thread set as well. More parts more problems. Threads are NOT why cans come loose (shoulders maybe), cans come loose because operators don't properly attach them, seat them and maintain them. Period.
Silliness that a direct thread is a problem. For every single QD mounts in service there are twenty direct attach. Many many more directs than QD. Buy a quality suppressor and you will get perfect threads more than capable of a solid lock-up on a quality threaded host. In instances where heavy FA work is expected you have three choices. Leave it on until carbon locks it up exactly the same way it locks up a QD but without the huge consequences, use a whitness mark and tighten as needed, use the supplied cam-lock that comes with some quality direct attach suppressors.
I once asked this very question and was told "Sure, we get returns on cans that have a strike for a poorly mounted FA, but they are rare, much rarer than returns for cans that the operator feels requires more loosening torque than they feel comfortable doing to their own host. Strikes are less than 1%." Huskey is right.
By the way....what is the cost of repairing the typical "strike" on a quality, repairable can? Answer = $65 and that is only for operator error.
Crap cans have crap threads. Sell crap cans and they will have crap threads. Bookhound....what can companies do you see that have inconsistent threadings?
Jakhamer, buy quality, read the directions, manage the can, direct threads? No problem.
Re: Direct connect problems??
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jakhamr81</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BachelorJack</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
We used to use teflon tape in paintball for our air fittings and then completely stopped. We found that little whisps would get shoved inside the threaded section and then would make their way through the internals. We also found that when the junction was unscrewed it was sometimes hard to get all the compressed and now shredded tape shards out of the inside without losing some to go through the internals.
</div></div>
This is not paintball... These are real guns; a little piece of Teflon tape is not going to induce a malfunction. I don't even believe that it would prevent you from fully seating your suppressor, and if I were worried about that, the index marks that Lowlight mentioned would take care of that too. </div></div>
Missed the point. ENTIRELY. Those whisps of teflon tape that you see in the threads when you unscrew the suppressor. Those will be going through the suppressor. And hopefully they will make it out. But most likely not.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jakhamr81</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BachelorJack</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
We used to use teflon tape in paintball for our air fittings and then completely stopped. We found that little whisps would get shoved inside the threaded section and then would make their way through the internals. We also found that when the junction was unscrewed it was sometimes hard to get all the compressed and now shredded tape shards out of the inside without losing some to go through the internals.
</div></div>
This is not paintball... These are real guns; a little piece of Teflon tape is not going to induce a malfunction. I don't even believe that it would prevent you from fully seating your suppressor, and if I were worried about that, the index marks that Lowlight mentioned would take care of that too. </div></div>
Missed the point. ENTIRELY. Those whisps of teflon tape that you see in the threads when you unscrew the suppressor. Those will be going through the suppressor. And hopefully they will make it out. But most likely not.
Re: Direct connect problems??
Absolutely right, if the problem is constant lock-up on AR15 style weapons use a light coating of grey high temp anti-seize on the threads. Look, the issue is rarely threading, sometimes shoulder but normally that dissimular metals cool and contract making it tought get off...not wiggle off. Always consider popping off some rounds to heat things way up and then disassembly is easier. I have seen .50 caliber weapons that the cans had to be cut off with a torch, the issue there was simular metal bonding.
Note: some anti seize compunds will take magnificent shiney and perfect gauged threads and dull them out. No problem at all, completely cosmetic, but just know it happens.
Absolutely right, if the problem is constant lock-up on AR15 style weapons use a light coating of grey high temp anti-seize on the threads. Look, the issue is rarely threading, sometimes shoulder but normally that dissimular metals cool and contract making it tought get off...not wiggle off. Always consider popping off some rounds to heat things way up and then disassembly is easier. I have seen .50 caliber weapons that the cans had to be cut off with a torch, the issue there was simular metal bonding.
Note: some anti seize compunds will take magnificent shiney and perfect gauged threads and dull them out. No problem at all, completely cosmetic, but just know it happens.
Re: Direct connect problems??
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BachelorJack</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jakhamr81</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BachelorJack</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
We used to use teflon tape in paintball for our air fittings and then completely stopped. We found that little whisps would get shoved inside the threaded section and then would make their way through the internals. We also found that when the junction was unscrewed it was sometimes hard to get all the compressed and now shredded tape shards out of the inside without losing some to go through the internals.
</div></div>
This is not paintball... These are real guns; a little piece of Teflon tape is not going to induce a malfunction. I don't even believe that it would prevent you from fully seating your suppressor, and if I were worried about that, the index marks that Lowlight mentioned would take care of that too. </div></div>
Missed the point. ENTIRELY. Those whisps of teflon tape that you see in the threads when you unscrew the suppressor. Those will be going through the suppressor. And hopefully they will make it out. But most likely not. </div></div>
Ever notice that center fire rifle cans do not need to be cleaned?? Ever wonder why that is?? Maybe the velocity that the round and gases are traveling at through the suppressor some how manage to blow the crap out.
Ever have someone tell you that it is fine to shoot rim fire rounds through a center fire round and just shoot some regular rifle rounds when you are done to remove any led build up?? If a center rifle round is capable of removing lead that has bonded itself to the inside of your suppressor I highly doubt that "whisps" of Teflon tape stand a chance.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BachelorJack</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jakhamr81</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BachelorJack</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
We used to use teflon tape in paintball for our air fittings and then completely stopped. We found that little whisps would get shoved inside the threaded section and then would make their way through the internals. We also found that when the junction was unscrewed it was sometimes hard to get all the compressed and now shredded tape shards out of the inside without losing some to go through the internals.
</div></div>
This is not paintball... These are real guns; a little piece of Teflon tape is not going to induce a malfunction. I don't even believe that it would prevent you from fully seating your suppressor, and if I were worried about that, the index marks that Lowlight mentioned would take care of that too. </div></div>
Missed the point. ENTIRELY. Those whisps of teflon tape that you see in the threads when you unscrew the suppressor. Those will be going through the suppressor. And hopefully they will make it out. But most likely not. </div></div>
Ever notice that center fire rifle cans do not need to be cleaned?? Ever wonder why that is?? Maybe the velocity that the round and gases are traveling at through the suppressor some how manage to blow the crap out.
Ever have someone tell you that it is fine to shoot rim fire rounds through a center fire round and just shoot some regular rifle rounds when you are done to remove any led build up?? If a center rifle round is capable of removing lead that has bonded itself to the inside of your suppressor I highly doubt that "whisps" of Teflon tape stand a chance.
Re: Direct connect problems??
jakhamer, unfortunately that is not correct.
So, to be helpful, lets go through this ok?
Sealed centerfire cans that are properly designed and used with proper ammunition, they...do not need to be cleaned. Centerfire cans that are not properly designed are called "capture cans" by designers and they need to be cleaned. In fact the vast majority of centerfire cans are sealed and a majority of them are sold expressly recommending that .22 rounds not be fired through them. The process of purging forward in well designed cans is not an accident. Some popular cans do not purge, and depend on low pressure dwell that would allow .22 leading to be a mjor problem. There is no "shooting clean" those cans. Shooting good quality ammo, both propellant and projectiles is a requirement for keeping a can in good shape for decades. Corrosive ammo in steel can, lead bullets in many baffel designs can be a very real issue.
When people suggest that their sealed centerfire can is designed to allow .22 fire I think "I hope it can be dipped." Nobody should tell you its "fine" to shoot .22s through any sealed centerfire can. Some designs can handle .22s better than others, but .22s are filthy, especially subsonics and unplated .22s will "lead" cans faster than many would think. And then there is the gas system of many rifles to think of as well. Most buy the cheapest .22s they can, don't, buy good quality .22 that have plated bullets for your .22 cans and see the difference.
Now I am not saying that Teflon tape can get trapped in your can. But I have seen plenty of designs where it could and would. Teflon tape is a poor choice and should be avoided in favor of anti-sieze.
http://www.xtranormal.com/watch/8193125/should-i-clean-my-centerfire-suppressor
.
jakhamer, unfortunately that is not correct.
So, to be helpful, lets go through this ok?
Sealed centerfire cans that are properly designed and used with proper ammunition, they...do not need to be cleaned. Centerfire cans that are not properly designed are called "capture cans" by designers and they need to be cleaned. In fact the vast majority of centerfire cans are sealed and a majority of them are sold expressly recommending that .22 rounds not be fired through them. The process of purging forward in well designed cans is not an accident. Some popular cans do not purge, and depend on low pressure dwell that would allow .22 leading to be a mjor problem. There is no "shooting clean" those cans. Shooting good quality ammo, both propellant and projectiles is a requirement for keeping a can in good shape for decades. Corrosive ammo in steel can, lead bullets in many baffel designs can be a very real issue.
When people suggest that their sealed centerfire can is designed to allow .22 fire I think "I hope it can be dipped." Nobody should tell you its "fine" to shoot .22s through any sealed centerfire can. Some designs can handle .22s better than others, but .22s are filthy, especially subsonics and unplated .22s will "lead" cans faster than many would think. And then there is the gas system of many rifles to think of as well. Most buy the cheapest .22s they can, don't, buy good quality .22 that have plated bullets for your .22 cans and see the difference.
Now I am not saying that Teflon tape can get trapped in your can. But I have seen plenty of designs where it could and would. Teflon tape is a poor choice and should be avoided in favor of anti-sieze.
http://www.xtranormal.com/watch/8193125/should-i-clean-my-centerfire-suppressor
.
Re: Direct connect problems??
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BachelorJack</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jakhamr81</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BachelorJack</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
We used to use teflon tape in paintball for our air fittings and then completely stopped. We found that little whisps would get shoved inside the threaded section and then would make their way through the internals. We also found that when the junction was unscrewed it was sometimes hard to get all the compressed and now shredded tape shards out of the inside without losing some to go through the internals.
</div></div>
This is not paintball... These are real guns; a little piece of Teflon tape is not going to induce a malfunction. I don't even believe that it would prevent you from fully seating your suppressor, and if I were worried about that, the index marks that Lowlight mentioned would take care of that too. </div></div>
Missed the point. ENTIRELY. Those whisps of teflon tape that you see in the threads when you unscrew the suppressor. Those will be going through the suppressor. And hopefully they will make it out. But most likely not. </div></div>
If that is your only <span style="font-style: italic">point</span>, then it's really weak. It can certainly be your opinion, and I'd advise you to steer clear of using it if you are uncomfortable with the ideal. However, I really doubt what you describe would ever be an issue. In my years of shooting 9mm, .40 and .45 I've never experienced or witnessed a instance where this has occurred. If someone is using a entire roll on a single 9mm barrel, then I have serious concerns that they shouldn't be holding a loaded gun. I cannot speak about the use of tape on Paintball guns as I've never held a paintball gun. I could see how it would be more of a concern in that a paintball gun depends on lubrication, movement, and compressed air to function.
IMO, unless we're talking about direct connect on fullautos, using anything to 'tighten' a can to a barrel is really overkill. I certainly wouldn't use Rocksett or Threadlock on a direct connect can for any length of time. I've seen quick attach mounts practically weld themselves onto the barrel.
As LL stated at the beginning of the post, the use of witness marks and common senses is all one really needs.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BachelorJack</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jakhamr81</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BachelorJack</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
We used to use teflon tape in paintball for our air fittings and then completely stopped. We found that little whisps would get shoved inside the threaded section and then would make their way through the internals. We also found that when the junction was unscrewed it was sometimes hard to get all the compressed and now shredded tape shards out of the inside without losing some to go through the internals.
</div></div>
This is not paintball... These are real guns; a little piece of Teflon tape is not going to induce a malfunction. I don't even believe that it would prevent you from fully seating your suppressor, and if I were worried about that, the index marks that Lowlight mentioned would take care of that too. </div></div>
Missed the point. ENTIRELY. Those whisps of teflon tape that you see in the threads when you unscrew the suppressor. Those will be going through the suppressor. And hopefully they will make it out. But most likely not. </div></div>
If that is your only <span style="font-style: italic">point</span>, then it's really weak. It can certainly be your opinion, and I'd advise you to steer clear of using it if you are uncomfortable with the ideal. However, I really doubt what you describe would ever be an issue. In my years of shooting 9mm, .40 and .45 I've never experienced or witnessed a instance where this has occurred. If someone is using a entire roll on a single 9mm barrel, then I have serious concerns that they shouldn't be holding a loaded gun. I cannot speak about the use of tape on Paintball guns as I've never held a paintball gun. I could see how it would be more of a concern in that a paintball gun depends on lubrication, movement, and compressed air to function.
IMO, unless we're talking about direct connect on fullautos, using anything to 'tighten' a can to a barrel is really overkill. I certainly wouldn't use Rocksett or Threadlock on a direct connect can for any length of time. I've seen quick attach mounts practically weld themselves onto the barrel.
As LL stated at the beginning of the post, the use of witness marks and common senses is all one really needs.
Re: Direct connect problems??
According to your post Rolling Thunder, I stand corrected. I have had a different understanding from speaking with various people. Even though I was never planning on using Teflon tape, I will never believe that it would cause any major problems as it would in a paintball gun.
What I have gotten from this post is that a direct connect suppressor may come loose, but seizing the can to the barrel is more likely and a bigger problem. The loosening can be minamized by using index marks, matching the threads and shoulder of the barrel to the suppressor, and simply checking your equipment.
According to your post Rolling Thunder, I stand corrected. I have had a different understanding from speaking with various people. Even though I was never planning on using Teflon tape, I will never believe that it would cause any major problems as it would in a paintball gun.
What I have gotten from this post is that a direct connect suppressor may come loose, but seizing the can to the barrel is more likely and a bigger problem. The loosening can be minamized by using index marks, matching the threads and shoulder of the barrel to the suppressor, and simply checking your equipment.
Re: Direct connect problems??
For some users of the 223A (rated for 7" F/A), we recommend the Nord-lock washers. They work great. Most of our testing of that can has been with them.
For regular sporting/precision/LR use, it's usually not a problem. I can't remember the last time I had a direct-connect can come loose.
For some users of the 223A (rated for 7" F/A), we recommend the Nord-lock washers. They work great. Most of our testing of that can has been with them.
For regular sporting/precision/LR use, it's usually not a problem. I can't remember the last time I had a direct-connect can come loose.
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