Direct thread can backs off

[DeathBeforeDismount]

Any idea what a good solution would be for this? I know I could do the A419 system and it should fix it.

Crush washers are bad, is there anything else I am thinking off.

I can ughah ugahing the shit out of the can and it still comes loose after a few strings of fire. I assume thermal contraction is causing it to loosen up no matter how hard I tighten it. I really dont want to have to tac weld this can to the barrel if I dont have to.

5/8x24 barrel with a titanium dillegent defence HUB adapter mated to KGM R30K.

 

[Maurygold]

I would get it hot and give it a slight strap wrench snug.

I’m a 419 user and really like it

 

[LR1845]

SUPPRESSORTOOLS.COM | Pooler | 31322

www.suppressortools.com

This guy probably has a tool to tighten and remove it if not he can make you something, good guy.

 

[GeoDude]

So people use a rubber o ring. I’ve never had my omega direct thread can spin off on its own during a 2 day match.

 

[DeathBeforeDismount]

I went playing in the toolbox and have a ton of old mounts i forgot about.

Griffin paladain 2 port brakes, a ton of shims and a Plan A adapter for Hub. Im going to give that a shot and see if it works.

 

[joe777]

I've had great luck with the standard A2 style crush washers on many barrels with my aem5. I just tighten a turn or two extra so that the washer actually crushes (wears flat on the sharp edge) and essentially self aligns

 

[BCP]

Sounds like it needs some kind of tension like a crush washer

 

[alamo5000]

Sounds like it needs some kind of tension like a crush washer

You must be new.

Never. Ever. Use a crush washer with a suppressor.

 

[DeathBeforeDismount]

For real some of this advice is bonkers.

 

[TheOE800]

I've had great luck with the standard A2 style crush washers on many barrels with my aem5. I just tighten a turn or two extra so that the washer actually crushes (wears flat on the sharp edge) and essentially self aligns

That’s because the AEM5 doesn’t use the muzzle brake for critical alignment, the taper collar behind the muzzle is what locates the suppressor. Completely different situation here.

 

[M4guru]

The right O-ring might do it for you. A good silicone ring will do 450F, that's probably enough at the threads. You're dealing with a lot more ass than a pistol cartridge obviously, but it works well on handguns. I've never tried it on a rifle.

Other than that, gorilla that shit with a strap wrench. I wound up doing Xeno adapters on gas guns and Xeno Xero (just the interface, no FH or brake) on bolt guns. LH coarse threads, so as long as the HUB adapter stays tight on the can you're good.

 

[joe777]

For real some of this advice is bonkers.

You're the one shooting with a loose can lol. I wonder what that alignment is like

My aem5 muzzle brakes are perfectly aligned after verifying with a rod and haven't loosened

Everyone acting like a $2 crush washer gonna cause the earth to shatter. All I can say is try for yourself and verify with an alignment rod

 

[hlee]

Does the can have wrench flats? Consider putting a wrench in your range bag. Use it for that bit of extra leverage over “hand tight…”

 

[Old Man with Gun]

Never use a crush washer, every suppressor maker says so. I've seen baffles and end cap strikes caused by this.

You can use a little thread locker. You just need some resistance. Put a drop on the threads, wipe off almost completely and let dry a few minutes. Screw can on and off then leave to dry completely. If there is not enough resistance after it dries, repeate. Too much, brush clean and try again.

 

[DeathBeforeDismount]

You're the one shooting with a loose can lol. I wonder what that alignment is like

My aem5 muzzle brakes are perfectly aligned after verifying with a rod and haven't loosened

Everyone acting like a $2 crush washer gonna cause the earth to shatter. All I can say is try for yourself and verify with an alignment rod

The alignment is perfect. I don't buy or shoot cheap shit. High volume gas gun shooting with DT depending on recoil, gas volume and thread engagement , it's going to come loose.

Virtually every suppressor manufacture explicitly warns against using a crush washer. It's well known to cause baffle strikes.

AEM brake has nothing to do with a threaded shoulder interface. Especially when the barrel is machined to bassicaly slip fit the brake.

The whole point is seeing if there are any other good solutions or products to safely keep the can from coming loose.

 

[hlee]

My Rearden (plan B) mounts/adapters tighten down TIGHT with hand force. When hot, I need a wrench to remove the suppressor, but it comes loose with hand force once cool again… So, if you’re not against a mount and don’t mind spending a few dollars…

 

[DeathBeforeDismount]

I mentioned a few posts up I found some shims and mounts I had stashed away from old guns. I threw that together and we'll see if it holds up. Won't know until I dump a few mags through it and cycle that a few times.

 

[joe777]

The alignment is perfect. I don't buy or shoot cheap shit. High volume gas gun shooting with DT depending on recoil, gas volume and thread engagement , it's going to come loose.

Virtually every suppressor manufacture explicitly warns against using a crush washer. It's well known to cause baffle strikes.

AEM brake has nothing to do with a threaded shoulder interface. Especially when the barrel is machined to bassicaly slip fit the brake.

The whole point is seeing if there are any other good solutions or products to safely keep the can from coming loose.

My point is that your alignment is not perfect when your suppressor is loose...

 

[caberslash]

For real some of this advice is bonkers.

Loctite or Araldite

 

[redbullitt]

I shoot direct thread mostly. Have had good luck with shoot it hot, and tighten a bit with wrench, strap, glove etc.

I've also had a bit of blue lock tight work too, at least short term, but not a fan

Guess it depends on your firing sequences a lot. If hot and tight don't work, some sort of nice mount could be the easy button.

Those rearden mounts mentioned are sweet if your can is hub.

No way I'd put crush washers behind my magnus, but if you roll that way no worries lol.

 

[Ichi]

For direct thread on pistols, Rugged recommends teflon tape. The Oatey yellow PRFE tape has a temp rating of 500 degrees.

Not sure if this translates to rifles.

They specifically say not to use o-rings as it may misalign the suppressor.

 

[Marinevet1]

I use anti seize on my direct thread can, and usually have trouble getting it off.........3/4 X 28

 

[DeathBeforeDismount]

For direct thread on pistols, Rugged recommends teflon tape. The Oatey yellow PRFE tape has a temp rating of 500 degrees.

Not sure if this translates to rifles.

They specifically say not to use o-rings as it may misalign the suppressor.

Problem is over 450 or so degrees it breaks down into phosgene gas nasty toxic shit you really don't want to be breathing.

 

[AznTactical]

I thought Frank banned you? But anyways all of my suppressors that are DT eventually loosen up. My Omega, Diligent Defense, and SRD45, they all loosen up and it's annoying. I just check all the time and I even use a wrench or Craftsman's rubber tool strap to tighten them. I also have witness marks on them to give me a visual indicator if they've loosened up.

 

[carbonbased]

titanium dillegent defence HUB adapter mated to KGM R30K.

Is this the adapter you have?

I too had issues with DT cans and my AR. I went with the Surfire secondary retention system. Knowing if what I know now, I think I’d choose a different system because of gas leakage even with one of their labyrinth seal flash hiders.

A trick that worked better than just hand cranking once is to crank it on cold, shoot five or so rounds to heat stuff up, then loosen and crank the crap out of it again.

 

[Baron23]

I thought Frank banned you?

Multiple times under multiple ID’s

Frank’s a softie and dickbeforedismount has seemed to moderate himself a bit….well, on occassion

 

[JR1200W3]

https://kakindustry.com/plan-b-universal-muzzle-device/

Plan B HUB Mount

We are a design and full service manufacturing company that specializes in AR-15 parts & AR-10 parts in the firearm industry. Buy your own firearm parts directly or become a dealer to take advantage of exclusive pricing.

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