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Diy shooting table to be left outside ideas?

Gros21

Private
Minuteman
Apr 1, 2019
71
12
I own a property 20min drive from my place and I'm looking at setting up a small range.

Im looking for ideas for a simple shooting table that can be left there 24/7

Im even half tempted to mount something in a small shipping container or garden shed so I have shade when I shoot or at least amle a simple roof for it.
 
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well portable there was a post in the forums someone had a tow behind trailer with a ineradicable set up a bench with an over hang for shade It really made me drool lol .they do make portable just throw it in your truck and go but anything you leave outside is subject to others and while I do like people they trash any good thing they find but concrete could be an option maybe a nice solid frame would stand up to others abuse . good luck on what ever you decide to do or make it would be nice to see a pic or so when you do it .
 
4E371F89-32BC-406D-86CD-1C2B6502BF4D.jpegI framed mine out of scrap angle.. an used treated 2x6 for the top .. holding up good so far..
 
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Was considering a concrete one till I read the weight I'd like 300lb plus.

If its stolen so be it.

Guess I could use those roll out veh shades all I'd have to do is put in 2 posts to support it
 
I'm extremely tempted to use one similar but wondering how it will last full time outside. Maybee I should buy one with a good return policy or a year warrenty.

I currently use one similar that I obtained from work but half the time I forget it or think nah its not to bad 3hrs later I'm dehydrated and bright red.

Just want to make it simple so I can rock up spend an hr there then leave.
 
I've bought some treated pine sleepers to make a bench out of 2 x 8ft sleepers.

Should give a front area of 32" that will taper to 16" at the rear length will be 4ft.

With some treated 2x4 for braces.

Feet wise I've went with saw horses which will be screwed to the top table shall be a little lower than a standard table. Seat wise I'm hoping to use a plastic milk create with some sleeper off cuts to boost it up followed by a outdoor cushion for comfort.

Which means it will be 100% outdoor friendly and moveable by myself (just)

I have some marine carpet I plan to cut to size to use for the top, which I can roll up and keep behind my ute/truck seat. Which will mean I can also use it for prone shooting.

If its still to rough I can quite easyly cut some thin ply or similar for the top.
 
Here is the table so far. Please note back leg will be rotated 90 degrees. I decided bugger my 1 or 2 mates that are leftys. This gives me a 32" front and 24" rear.

A 165mm/7" circular saw juuuuust deep enough but will fix the end cuts at the end.

Table is a touch low may table top is 27" high my milk crete seat is 13" high.

I may need to use the 2x4" to bump the hight up a touch.

I'll grab my file rest and a rifle with a bipod to see how it feels height wise. However I'm I australia and don't want to let my neighbours know I have several firearms. Over the back are pretty darn dodgey 24/7 fighting in this lockdown.

So far pretty impressed how simple and half decent it looks maybe my cheap saw horses will only last a few years but meh top should last ages.

Think on far side I will add a small rifle rack will also keep a old 4 or 6" conduit or ammo can under the table for a few targets/stapler and black dots.
 

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Well I slid the other saw horse back and it doesn't interfear with my shooting position.

Saw horse is approx 40" wide so I will slide them to the right a touch and cut off access or possibly add an other length or do some sort of rifle rack.

But with supports it's stable as I have 4 cross braces plus 2 saw horses.
 
At a club I was a member at I did this( see pics ).
I found some pieces of industrial racking and ended together a simple frame. Also scavenged a restroom partition that didn’t get used on a job and bolted it to a treated wood top. Super sturdy and weather proof. Even was able to give it a few convenient features.
I have access to a small property now and I’m going to use a heavy duty Shipping pallet/ skid and attach legs to it. The top deck boards are 2x6 and it’s roughly 5x6’. A few good coats of deck sealer should do the trick for most of the year.
As far as cover goes, I would t leave a pop up outside all year. They’re not meant for that in my opinion. Try Costco or Sams for a more permanent “car port” or “garage” type or cover. If the soft cover gets ruined usually they sell replacements.
Another idea is to get a wall tent angle bracket set that you can customize with DIY conduit pieces. Those conduit diameters can be large enough to screw in to (steel panels) or you can use canvas tarps.
Good luck and send pics!
 

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I wouldn't expect a gazebo to last a year in the weather but warrenty should cover it.

I'm trying to find a vehecile awning which I may attach to my veh or install 2 posts.

Plan c, d or what ever I'm up to is find a large umbrella that normally is used on a pool or similar.

I'm in Australia so range is limited I'm looking for pool shade type devices shade sails ect etc as they are designed to be outside 24/7.

BTW nice looking table, I did look at doing similar but new racking was crazy expensive.
 
Here is 2 examples of our largest hardware chain, I have a mate that works here and he said its pretty common for people to return these as they blow over or some other bs excuse. But Ill just use some big reo pegs to keep it in place.

Still not as good as some proper shade but or something metal but should do the job



 
The fact that you own the property suggests doing the job right so you can enjoy it long term. It's nice to have it work reliably you when you arrive - year after year.

I built a masonry block and concrete table at my range 20 years ago that will still be there long after I'm dead. It's complete with a single slope livestock shade made from steel pipe and corrugated tin roofing.

I formed up and poured the table top at home so I could take my time and let it cure before transporting it. I built a horseshoe shaped base out of masonry block at the range. I installed a few wedge anchors to secure the top to the masonry block base and dropped it in place while the cement was wet on the base. I used a front end loader to get it in place, but levers, blocks and jacks will get any object into position with enough time. A trash can, chairs, astroturf and buckets full of brass all store in the concrete base.

Two years ago, I helped a buddy build a shooting table in just a few hours - for only the cost of fuel to drag some scrap concrete into position. It consists of a 48" diameter concrete stand pipe section that we used as a pedestal base, plus a slab of scrap concrete pad simply lain on top of it. No cement or joinery was used. The slab is so big and heavy, you'd never know the difference. We shaped the rough edges with a sledgehammer. If you check with a contractor that does demolition, you might be amazed what you can get for free.
Next time I go out, I need to bring a saw with a concrete blade to make it a bit classier. I'd like to slope the edges to make it more comfortable, but it works great and is superior to wood benches for stability and longevity . For shade, we've been bringing an easy up. I'm not a fan because they are fragile, but the mobility is nice as the sun changes position. We threaded small wedge anchors into blocks to keep it from blowing away. Wing nuts make it quick and easy to remove for storage. Hoping my buddy gets some scrap tin so we can do it right. He's planted a few trees, but it'll be years before the benefit is realized.

The important part is, nobody can really damage or steal either of the concrete setups. Years ago, I've chased off trespassers after I found bullet holes in the tin roof from AD's. I can manage things more smartly now that game cameras with SIM cards exist.

P.S. If you're still thinking of using a container for a shade and storage - think about the concussion and lack of circulation. It'll be loud, hot and full of lead vapor. Open space is so much nicer.

Wish you luck
 
I prefer to keep my crap portable. I bought an old beater blazer that I keep everything in. This makes it possible to go shoot anywhere I want and have shade, benches, carpet and screens to catch brass no matter where I go. If I get an invite from a buddy I just grab a few guns and toss them in the blazer and go. This was shot in my back yard. I have 3 ranges on my property so portable is what works for me

20190707_122730[1695].jpg
 
I have the single of this version with that I topped with the same composite decking material. It has been powder coated and hasn't shown any signs of adverse wear from being left outside. The guy that makes the frame is in San Angelo, but would be very easy to copy or modify as you needed.
 

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I made some cheap bed sides for my truck out of interior grade plywood. I painted the wood with a marine paint called Topside. Seems to be holding up well.

My last bench rotted away in a few years without any coatings.
 
I used concrete and sonotubes for a 'permanent' outdoor shooting table. The separate shooting stool is a 15"x13"x11" block of chainsaw-ed wood (it's adjustable height by flipping/rotating the block). The setup hasn't wandered off yet, but it's not light weight either.
 
I own a property 20min drive from my place and I'm looking at setting up a small range.

Im looking for ideas for a simple shooting table that can be left there 24/7

Im even half tempted to mount something in a small shipping container or garden shed so I have shade when I shoot or at least amle a simple roof for it.
Can't go wrong with a properly mixed, finished to size concrete. The more stable the better .and concrete will defiantly last you. Unless you thinkyou might move it someday. Then it's not so good. I see them all the time at uncontrolled shooting ranges. So there has to be some merit to it...right?
 
Shed or gazebo...
I have a shed 12x16 the only reason is so if I want I can shoot from inside it or leave shit in it and go back to it after a bit. The only things in it are a cooler, fan, trash can, and targets to post or hang.

If its nice out i don't use it....
 
View attachment 7294540I framed mine out of scrap angle.. an used treated 2x6 for the top .. holding up good so far..
Question on your table. I'm assuming at some point you have shot from a less than stable table and you get that little wobble bobble. If I'm on a concrete bench it's just beautiful no motion at all. My bench meh could be a lot better. Looking at your build I'm going to guess that mofo doesn't move a mm looks like a tank. Is that an accurate assessment?

I use angled flanges build by a guy off 24hourcampfire and 1.25" NPT threaded pipe. Height fits me great, but darn if I have not figured out how to get the teeny build of wobble out like a concrete bench.....it may be that this is just the limit of it. Thanks for any insights. This is pretty much what mine looks like(same flanges, pipes, stacked-glued-screwed).

7eenoFk.jpg
 
Question on your table. I'm assuming at some point you have shot from a less than stable table and you get that little wobble bobble. If I'm on a concrete bench it's just beautiful no motion at all. My bench meh could be a lot better. Looking at your build I'm going to guess that mofo doesn't move a mm looks like a tank. Is that an accurate assessment?

I use angled flanges build by a guy off 24hourcampfire and 1.25" NPT threaded pipe. Height fits me great, but darn if I have not figured out how to get the teeny build of wobble out like a concrete bench.....it may be that this is just the limit of it. Thanks for any insights. This is pretty much what mine looks like(same flanges, pipes, stacked-glued-screwed).

7eenoFk.jpg
Have you tried unscrewing a leg or two until you get good contact im assuming the ground isn't perfectly flat. Also might be worth looking into putting some larger feet on it to disperse weight that way it won't want to sink into the ground. Great looking table by the way it looks pretty portable!
 
Have you tried unscrewing a leg or two until you get good contact im assuming the ground isn't perfectly flat. Also might be worth looking into putting some larger feet on it to disperse weight that way it won't want to sink into the ground. Great looking table by the way it looks pretty portable!
Yea we have tried different point of contact: sand, grass, when it's muddy will sit on it to anchor in a bit. That table is from the thread where I found the flanges, but not mine.....looks pretty much like it. His grass is too nice to be my yard! Thanks for the ideas on feet. My *guess* feels that it's a tiny bit of flex going on and not the table shifting off the 3 points of contact. Since I have 3 legs that left rear section is kind of hanging there w/o support. Thanks
 
I use angled flanges build by a guy off 24hourcampfire and 1.25" NPT threaded pipe. Height fits me great, but darn if I have not figured out how to get the teeny build of wobble out

Same concept, but smaller OD pipe inside attached legs allows for each leg adjustment.

1645361396848.jpeg
 
Yea we have tried different point of contact: sand, grass, when it's muddy will sit on it to anchor in a bit. That table is from the thread where I found the flanges, but not mine.....looks pretty much like it. His grass is too nice to be my yard! Thanks for the ideas on feet. My *guess* feels that it's a tiny bit of flex going on and not the table shifting off the 3 points of contact. Since I have 3 legs that left rear section is kind of hanging there w/o support. Thanks
Ah I missed the part where it was only three legs. Maybe try adding another leg temporarily just to see if it helps.
 
Grass, dirt, gravel - works great. Can‘t take credit for the design. I spoke at length with the gent who provided the angled mounts and went with his recommendation. He’d built a bunch for others and settled on the design and shape as the most stable. His name is Greg Culpepper, great guy.

“Get four pieces of 1 1/4" black iron pipe 24" long threaded on one end but reamed on both ends. Drill a 5/8" hole all the way through 4" from the threaded ends for tightening with a screwwdriver or similar tool. Drill 5/8" holes through one side 2" from the unthreaded ends for clamp bolt clearance. Weld a SS 1/2" nut (supplied) over that hole. Chase the threads in the nut to clean up after welding. Get four pieces of 1" black iron pipe 15" or longer if you want and weld a washer (supplied) to one end for the adjustable part of the leg.”

1645363263597.jpeg
 
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Grass, dirt, gravel - works great. Can‘t take credit for the design. I spoke at length with the gent who provided the angled mounts and went with his recommendation. He’d built a bunch for others and settled on the design and shape as the most stable.
Would that happen to be Lonny at 24hourcampfire? That would be hilarious....just sent him an email on a 4th bracket.
 
Usually when I see someone shooting from a bench with a cutout in the corner they are leaning sideways over their rifle, instead of directly behind it. My bench is a rectangle and the shooter sits behind it. It makes it a lot easier to square up my rifle and shoulders with the target.
 
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wood moves. I would use something other than wood to build a bench that will be outside permanently.

If using wood, use a sheet good for the top. Attach with figure 8 fasteners or nails. Coat HEAVILY, especially ensuring the edges are sealed. Next step is to replace the top every year, lol.

Metal frame with a concrete slab top is probably cheapest/easiest.
 
I wish it were permanent this has to be taken down and put in back each trip and then put in garage. If permanent I'd already have a slab and cinder blocks waiting on me dangit.
 
I poured my own out of concrete. I don't live on the property anymore (in another state) or I'd take a picture for you. As I recall, it cost me about $20.

I scrounged "heavy-duty" cardboard tubes from Lowe's-- as I recall, it might have been (a single) 6-8" tube left over from their carpet rolls, roofing paper, or carpet runner(s). It's been so long ago I can't remember what purpose was served with the cardboard tubing. Anyway, I remember having to cut at least one tube to the same length as the others. I used these three tubes as forms for concrete legs. I made a wooden tray to serve as a form for the table top. I used 1/2" plywood cut into a "L" shape, and screwed through the plywood along the entire perimeter to hold the 2x4s cut to the correct lengths. I used small L-braces to join each 90* joint where two 2x4s butted against each other so the 2x4s wouldn't bow when the weight of the concrete stressed them.

I placed the three tubes upright at the shooting location, oriented in a triangle that would correspond to supporting the table top form. I cut some rebar to the appropriate length so that I could insert two pieces into each tube and have them extend out of the tubes and through smaller ~3" holes I sawed into the table top form's plywood base. I had some flat wire fencing that I'd cut to fit and lay in the wooden form table top.

Then I filled each tube with concrete about halfway full, inserted 2 pieces of rebar into each tube--so that the rebar protruded from the exposed end of each standing tube about 2", and then filled the rest of the tubes with concrete. Then I laid the wooden form over the "legs", aligning the 3" holes in the table so the rebar came through and filled the table-top form halfway with concrete. I laid the flat wire fencing down, and filled the rest of the form. If the rebar stood too high, I just pounded it down into the leg with a hammer til the poured concrete table covered it.

It set up in about 3 days; or at least, I gave it that much time before I used it. It was still like new when I sold the property 16 years later. Even in Missi'ppi's humidity, the cardboard tubes still had not rotted away; THAT really surprised me. The only thing I didn't like was that the concrete was "abrasive"; I hadn't thought that out. I ended up using a scrap of indoor-outdoor carpet to line the table top. I got lucky and scrounged that from Lowe's too--it was too small for them to sell so they just gave it to me. I've scrounged carpet remnants from furniture companies before (say, 3x2--they have no practical application except the trash bin) so the managers usually let them go--like the cardboard tubing.

Hey, 'Cheeep' is my middle name.
 
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