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Range Report Do you ONLY shoot match grade ammo?

BigDKC

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Mar 19, 2010
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Hello, newbie here! I have a question that I wasn't able to find on a search, perhaps my wording isn't working out right.. Also I wasn't really sure where to post this, so I apologize if this is not the proper place!

I am wondering if you guys will ONLY shoot match grade ammo, either purchased or hand-loaded in your precision rifles?

I have a new .308 savage I have been setting up and I am about to the point of going to do a minimalist bbl break-in and scope sight-in. I was just curious if I should only use match ammo to do this or does it matter?? I would not be shooting for groups, just shooting to get the scope lined up and the bbl broke in a little bit.

I have around 60rds of surplus 7.62 nato ammo sitting here and was wondering if I could or should use them for these tasks? (I realize a re-zero will be needed with the ammo I plan to shoot once I am ready to kick up into full on shooting with this rifle)

Will this cause any problems later on shooting much higher quality ammo? Cause the bbl to foul easier due to break in with non-high grade ammo? Any other ill effects?

Your thoughts?
 
Re: Do you ONLY shoot match grade ammo?

dude buy some cheap ammo and shoot that stuff yeh

If you have reloading gear by all means, handload from the begining using starter loads (min loads listed in ur reloading manual)

If not, buy cheap ammo, say 150gr... has less recoil than the bigger 180s

Save the brass.

Sight it in at 100 using that

Not sure on the barrel every one is different, but lets just say the first 100 rounds will be for break in...

I wouldnt concern myself with match grade ammo until shes had at least 40 rounds down the barrel and the scope is sighted in. Thats 2 boxes of crappy factory loads. Then shoot 2 5shot groups with factory ammo to bring your zero in to its true value that will be represented when you shoot the more consistent match grade ammo
 
Re: Do you ONLY shoot match grade ammo?

I shoot lots of cheap surplus components through my precision rifles. Trigger time is great, and when it costs 20 cents a round for 30-06 ammo it's really tough to say no.

When I'm shooting long distance at tiny little targets then I shoot the "match" stuff, but I've shot mil surp bullets and powder out to 900 yards with decent results on rocks and plates.

It's just an application of your shooting skills, the 150 FMJBT's need more wind and drop than my 208 Amax loads do, so it's a different zero and wind hold/dial but otherwise, it's the same idea.

Shoot it and be happy. Welcome to the Hide.
 
Re: Do you ONLY shoot match grade ammo?

I've shot South African, German, and more recently found Portugese surplus to be fairly accurate to 500 with a GAP AR10. It all goes bang when you pull the trigger and I've seen no ill effects. Shoot that shit man.........
 
Re: Do you ONLY shoot match grade ammo?

i have used prvi hunting grade junk for foulers and for preliminary sight in. shoot whatever you feel will be safe out of your rifle...there is some surplus that maybe flat downright dangerous tho
 
Re: Do you ONLY shoot match grade ammo?

for practice ammo, i shoot USAAmmo's .308 milspec FMJ round...seems pretty accurate in my rifle. and ontop of that they reload all lake city brass...
 
Re: Do you ONLY shoot match grade ammo?

Hey guys, thanks for the reply's so far!

I know it will shoot, I was just more concerned about lower quality ammo being the first 20-60 rounds fired through a new bbl possibly having some sort of ill effect on the bbl itself! The whole break-in debate etc etc.. Kind of like putting synthetic oil in a motor, if that's what it had from the day it was built, you never go back and put in dino oil in it at a change. I just wanted to make sure I wouldn't be doing any damage to accuracy later on by using lower quality rounds out of the gate.

I have never owned a precision rifle before, so I am more then likely over thinking it! I just happen to have about 60rds of this sitting here (south african surplus). I figured for bbl break in rounds, and preliminary scope zero'ing where super group accuracy isn't the order of the day, this would be a cheaper way to go, provided it won't be any harm.
 
Re: Do you ONLY shoot match grade ammo?

Just shoot. Don't worry about what kind of ammo you shoot.

I shoot a lot of good bullets because that's the only way to get 1 MOA or less accuracy in my experience. That said, I do have a BIG box of 150 grain FMJBTs that I shoot in my Garand.
 
Re: Do you ONLY shoot match grade ammo?

Maybe a dumb question, but is there any pressure concerns shooting 7.62 Nato ammo in a .308 chambered rifle?

I have been told there are subtle differences in the two cases with the Nato round being loaded to a higher pressure. Also told it was OK to shoot 308 cases in a Nato chamber, but not Nato ammo in a 308 chamber. Any truth to those statements?
 
Re: Do you ONLY shoot match grade ammo?

Hey Big, as long as the barrel is lubricated dont stress

Truth be told, strict cleaning often and unguided cleaning rods are whats does all of the damage, NOT the projectiles

A light amount of oil in, then whiped out, is all thats needed... or you could use dry lubes inside the barrel.

All projectiles have a copper jacket, be it match or hunting, or crappy surplus... so they all produce the same type of wear on the barrel

Hot Handloads also cause more barrel wear due to the higher pressures.
 
Re: Do you ONLY shoot match grade ammo?

I have a good dope worked up for 150gr off the shelf Federal stuff. I mostly shoot 168 match and just got 500 155gr palama rounds but I do have the ability to shoot that 150gr factory stuff out past 1000yds when I want to plink.
 
Re: Do you ONLY shoot match grade ammo?

Your not going to hurt your stick at this point by putting surplus or cheap ammo down the tube. Once you get the "feathers" knocked out of the barrel then you can concentrate on running good stuff. Some factory barrels take 10 rounds to shoot to max accuracy, others take 200. Some barrels never shoot well.

In the mean time shoot the rifle like it has world class match ammo in it, tuned to the rifle. Concentrate on your form, position, breathing and trigger control. Make each shot count as a training aid or your just wasting time, ammo and money.

Cheers,

Doc
 
Re: Do you ONLY shoot match grade ammo?

Right on guys! Thanks again for the info! I can't wait to get underway! Just wish I had somewhere a lot closer to me to shoot some real distance! As it is I will have to drive about an hour and a half to shoot anything over about 200 yards, but hell that's a start!!

I'm just about finished in my gathering stage. The final pieces other then the permanent scope are arriving this week! Then it's just a waiting game for the Viper PST's to start shipping the pre-orders! But I got an "ok" temp scope mounted up for the mean time.

Doc since you stopped in I just wanted to say you guys make some unbelievable scopes! I got to handle one for the first time at a local gun show a couple weeks back! Wish I would have had the $$ for it as it was a killer deal on a used one! But it did let me check out what high end optics are really all about! I also got to compare it to a high end leupold and the us optics was a cut above to say the least! someday... someday!
 
Re: Do you ONLY shoot match grade ammo?

I treat my rifles' bore/throat life like an irreplaceable resource, because these days, it just may be.

While MilSurp will certainly serve for bore break-in, these's really no reason not to use the opportunity to work on my precision skills, while I'm at it. Besides, I've fallen out of love with the concept of a deliberate bore break-in; at least and especially when a precision-made aftermarket bore is involved. Most 'factory' bores probably could use some form of such an approach, but I tend to think the process could be overrated.

Outside such 'sideline' tasks, I see little point in shooting a rifle for any reason but what the rifle is intended to do. Mine are intended for hunting and competitive shooting, and the ammo I choose to use is either commercial hunting stuff, or (usually) handloaded match grade stuff.

In other words, the stuff that either gets directly to the rifle's accuracy potential, or does a workmanlike terminal performance job without needing to waste bore life developing a hunting load when the big boys have already spent a dumpload of money doing the very same thing.

I do not add the wear associated with proficiency development and skills practice to that accumulated overall bore wear. A rimfire training rifle shoulders that load.

If one seriously believes that substantial recoil adds to the benefit of such practice, then we disagree; in fact I consider such recoil to be a negative aspect, compounding shooter fatigue and unneessary stress.

BTW, shooting 100yd-200yd with a .22LR <span style="font-style: italic">is</span> shooting some <span style="font-style: italic">real</span> distance. In my estimation, shooting a .22LR at an extended distance is equivalent to shooting 3-4 times as far with a 1000yd-capable rifle.

Greg
 
Re: Do you ONLY shoot match grade ammo?

Kindof along the same lines as what you've got going on...

On another forum somebody had a wicked-acurate Suhl super .22 for sale for $1000+, and some person asked how well it shot bulk ammo.

I couldn't help but wonder: does this person put shit gas in his Ferarri? Or does he exercise like a body builder yet eat at Jack in the Box on the way home from the gym?

If you have a precision rifle, feed it quality fuel that will reciporicate the rifle's capability.

EH
 
Re: Do you ONLY shoot match grade ammo?

I only shoot two grades of match ammo in my GAP. My target match ammo is Winchester cases, WLR primers, Varget, and 155g Lapua Scenar or 175g SMK bullets. For my full-house Match ammo substitute Lapua brass and CCI BR2 primers for the Winchester. I wouldn't be able to shoot as much as I do if I used anything other than match ammo. FWIW I use Wolf Match Extra in my 22lr. Range time is too precious to shoot crappy ammo.
 
Re: Do you ONLY shoot match grade ammo?

Thanks again for the replies! I believe I have my answer!

Please keep in mind my initial question was more or less would firing the 3 boxes of surp ammo I already have on hand have any ill effect on a new rifle/barrel as far as accuracy is concerned in the long run for the rifle.

Once I get on paper and get my temp scope sighted in these will be shot just to be able to shoot the rifle because I have the ammo, and nothing else to shoot them in. Plus doing so the first range trip will save me atleast $80 in ammo. (at this point any little bit helps!) After that I only plan on using match quality factory stuff and my own reloads once I get some components layed in.

Thanks again for all the replies and info! It is very much appreciated!
 
Re: Do you ONLY shoot match grade ammo?

I don't expend non-match ammo for the sole purpose of getting rid of it. I mean, it's still good for its original use, no matter what it's fired out of.

Ammo's not so abundant these days, and my crystal ball is cloudy about the future.

I keep it aside, 'in case', with zero info attached, gleaned from several shots taken to confirm that zero.

One never knows, do one...?
 
Re: Do you ONLY shoot match grade ammo?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bennybooboo</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

I couldn't help but wonder: does this person put shit gas in his Ferarri?

EH </div></div>

Comments like this always make me laugh. Every gas station gets fuel from the same distribution point. Your "shit" gas came out the same hose as your name brand gas.
 
Re: Do you ONLY shoot match grade ammo?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: kyreloader</div><div class="ubbcode-body">So is it a conspiracy that my car recommends 91 octane or greater gas? </div></div>

The truck shows up at the gas station and pumps 87 and 93 into the ground, the pumps pull from both tanks and mix on the fly to make medium grade.

If you have a compression ratio over 10:1 you should be running 91 or higher, 11.5:1 and you should run 93 or higher.

Your car has knock sensors in it, you can run it on 85 if you wanted to, the gas mileage is going to be reduced because it can't lean out the mix enough to get optimal burn.

Back on topic...

I don't see the problem in expending top shelf ammo if you're just whacking a steel plate with it and doing so at ranges where "cheap" ammo is capable.

Rimfire ammo is a little different story compared to centerfire ammo, and for the cost of Eley or Wolf Match, I'd put that stuff through an Annie or Suhl instead of bulk ammo any day.
 
Re: Do you ONLY shoot match grade ammo?

Greg, point taken! But I am not shooting it just to get rid of it in that sense. More like "shooting it because that is what I have available to me at this exact moment".

Bohem, I am guessing that might have been a miss type:

"I don't see the <span style="font-weight: bold">problem</span> in expending top shelf ammo if you're just whacking a steel plate with it and doing so at ranges where "cheap" ammo is capable."

I am guessing you meant:

"I don't see the <span style="font-weight: bold">point</span> in expending top shelf ammo if you're just whacking a steel plate with it and doing so at ranges where "cheap" ammo is capable.
 
Re: Do you ONLY shoot match grade ammo?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MAGUA</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Be careful using surplus ammo...a lot of this crap is "STEEL" jacketed. I would not shoot it in a Precision rifle. </div></div>


Now THAT could be an issue! I haven't heard of this before!

I'm pretty sure what I have is South African production .308, I'll have to look on the boxes!
 
Re: Do you ONLY shoot match grade ammo?

Steel jackets may not be quite as evil as we think.

First of all, they are ferrous, and will respond to a magnet, but iron does that too.

In fact, 'steel' jackets and cartridge cases are a lot more likely to be made of a softer material, most likely some form of ductile iron. Simply put; if they weren't, they wouldn't do the job they are made to do.

Government Ordnance Departments are not stupid. They are not going to be making millions of rounds of ball ammo that will be fed through their infantrymen's rifles, if those rounds are going to be seriously damaging to those rifles.

Would I feed them through a costly honed aftermarket bore? Most emphatically, no.

Would I dispose of them when I have a service grade rifle available to use them in? Absolutely not.

I wouldn't use them in the custom barrel because they will undoubtedly have <span style="font-style: italic">some</span> influence on bore wear; but more importantly, because even a custom barrel won't coax stellar performance out of a low spec ammo, and my concern is for the throat life that's being consumed regardless of the type of jacket, and wasted using a match rifle for plinking. Round count is round count, period.

The 'steel' jackets and cases are an issue, but not as bad as many might think. As plinking ammo in a a plinking rifle, they're fine.

My worry about steel ammo is that if it's rusty, iron oxide is fairly abrasive. 'Steel' wool (actually iron wool) can take are of that.

Greg
 
Re: Do you ONLY shoot match grade ammo?

As a self-check, I did some fairly extensive Internet Search research on 'steel' jackets.

I found mostly moral support for my own views, some strong conjecture, and very little direct data that deals specifically with the degree of wear steel jackets impose on bores. While I found a lot of concern, I found pretty much no evidence that steel jackets actually did increase bore wear.

Even so, I would use them with caution and attention, and keep them out of high value bores. If I were Mythbusters, I'd stay away from 'disproved' and 'confirmed', and say it's plausible, but not demonstrated as truth.

Greg