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Does ammo loaded weeks earlier become progressively inaccurate over time?

OK, here is an update. Believe the problem is now solved.

Did load development with once fired Alpha brass with 140 gn Berger Hybrids, with H4350 loaded from 39.0 gn to 42.0 gn in 0.3 increments. Powder came from a fresh bottle and did not sit in the powder thrower for weeks sucking up moisture. To recap: Trying to avoid “cold welded bullets” increasing effective neck tension and significantly increasing SD.

My working theory was stimulated by a section from Glenn Zediker’s book: Powder absorbs moisture and swells, increasing in volume, and burn rate goes down. My theory was that the powder inside the case releases moisture and cause the inside of the neck and the bullet to corrode and stick to each other. [No way to confirm that without access to a materials science lab...]. If true, this could be mitigated by keeping the powder in the bottle and not exposing it for long periods if time to the atmosphere. Once powder is in the case, seat the bullet fairly quickly after weighing and don’t let it sit open for long. Drop a bullet in the neck wrong way round to act as a plug.

The brass was tumbled for only 2 hours, using fresh corn cob with a small amount of Nu Shine polymer based car wax added to the tumbling media. Still some carbon visible in the necks. Used an ear bud to coat the inside of the necks with Imperial dry lube (graphite, a good lubricant, less scrathing of bullet and case neck during seating operation, less direct contact between the two metal surfaces). Dipped bullets in dry lube as well to double up the amount of dry lube in the beck, tapped on table to remove excess amount, then seated via Wilson hand die to book length, via a K&M arbor press with force messurement. Seating force was between 12 and 22 lbs, which is nice and light and adequate consistent in my prior experience.

Intentionally let the ammo sit for a week. This previously caused accuracy problem and SD exceeding 25 fps. Reseated today at the bench 0.015” deeper, and seating force was light and consistent, same as before. That is a good result!

Alpha brass was AMP annealed, neck sized only, used a Federal Magnum Match primer, inside neck was deburred, primer pockets cleaned with a brush. No trimming required as the brass got 0.002” shorter after fire forming. Alpha brass was sorted into a batch of 50 that was about 0.6 gn weight range. Superb weight consistency, hopefully indicating very consistent case volume.

Best SD was 3.3 fps, second best was 4.4 fps, most were below 10, loads above 41.2 gn exceeded 10 fps (11-15 fps). Best group was 0.35”, and two at 0.45”. Most were below 0.8”. Lowest SD corresponded with smallest group size at 2750 fps. Typical accuracy node for this rifle.

Problem seems to have been cured by combo of Nu Shine car polish added to the corn cob, avoiding powder sitting in the thrower for weeks sucking up moisture, and double application of dry lube. [I doubt the reseating made any difference as neck tension was essentially unchanged, jump was very long and an extra 10 or 15 thou would not have a material effect. Will skip this step next time.]

Thank you for the ideas, it really helped. Case closed.
 
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This is very interesting, I’ve never heard of this before nor have I ever had this issue I’ve loaded rounds and shot 3 or more years later with no issues, But I guess this could be an issue with some people? I mean it logically makes sense that this could happen especially with brass that isn’t cleaned real well the corrosion in the neck could cause this I’m guessing?
 
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This is very interesting, I’ve never heard of this before nor have I ever had this issue I’ve loaded rounds and shot 3 or more years later with no issues, But I guess this could be an issue with some people? I mean it logically makes sense that this could happen especially with brass that isn’t cleaned real well the corrosion in the neck could cause this I’m guessing?

Deeply strange experience for me too. Have reloaded for almost 6 years. Never really noticed because i never bothered to reseat the ammo. If asked 2 years ago, i also would have said “never seen this before, what are you talking about!”. But some batches of ammo shot great and others less so. Once i got a MagnetoSpeed i noticed some batches had SD around 6-9, other batches were 12-18 fps, or worse, and i never understood why.

Then a year ago, i wanted to do load development at the bench, so seated the bullets very long with the intention of optimizing seating depth, idea being to experiment until i found the best result without having to drive up and down between home and the shooting range. Reseated half the batch via a cheap little arbor press and a Wilson hand die, and seating effort was minimal, but ran out of daylight. Then went back a week later and now suddenly the bullets stuck like crazy, needed to stand up and put a lot of force on the little handle, and then the bullet would come loose with a loud thunk. Not smooth at all, violent. Later on got an arbor press that can accurately measure seating force, and then it was clear: Old batches needed up to 10x more force to yank the bullet loose. Also very inconsistent. Very bad when trying to maintain consistent “neck tension”.

My point: I probably had this problem for years and did not know it. My RCBS rock chucker press has so much camming power you probbaly would not feel it either. Arbor press only has a little 4” lever, and it becomes real obvious. I think a lot of reloaders have this problem and don’t know it, because they lack the required gear to measure it.

If i may make a request to the community: Try to reseat a few catridged loaded weeks or months ago, and do it with one finger on the handle. Do you find any difference from one catridge to the next? If you have an arbor press and a hand die that would of course be better. I bet we will find that many folks have this problem, and that it correlates with how humid your climate is, and if you use dry lube or not, or some other form of lubrication.
 
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I mix my wax with mineral spirits and put in a condiment squirt bottle.
2 parts wax to 1 part spirits .

I turn the tumbler on and add 2 full squirts, let the tumbler distribute the wax till all clumps are gone before adding brass.

? Brass too slick or shiny making problems? Not ran into that.

Since your media is dry some extra wax on first run may help.

Approximately how much would two full squirts be? ? I'm trying to understand how this doesn't make a caked up mess in the tumbler? Thanks.
 
I use walnut media from the pet store.
Fill vibration tumbler 3/4 full.
Turn it on and give 2 healthy squirts of wax mix while it runs. Let run till no more clumps are seen 3-5 minutes.
Then.
Add brass and a used drier sheet, I tie a knot in the middle of mine.

Dirty deprimed range brass gets 4 hrs.
Everything else gets less it's your call.

Brass looks nice and no cold welding so far.
Edit no dust problem.
 
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Here is an attempt at a quantity on the wax, I have never measured it.

A 1/8 inch stream squirted 2 times all the way around the bowl of media while it is running.

Best description I have.

Hope it helps.
 
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Here is an attempt at a quantity on the wax, I have never measured it.

A 1/8 inch stream squirted 2 times all the way around the bowl of media while it is running.

Best description I have.

Hope it helps.

Btw: I added too much the first time, brass came out with an oily layer on it. Smelled the mineral spirits on it. Added four drier sheets and no brass and let it run for another two hours. Throw away drier sheets.

Next batch came out pretty nice. Ever so slight slipperiness to the brass, similar to virgin brass. Very clean on the outside, inside of the neck still has slight amount of black carbon residue (desirable), and zero corn cob dust. Batch of 20 gave an SD of 8.0 fps, good enough for me.

It works!
 
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Final update: Have continued to use Nu Shine car wax, but in smaller quantities, tumble for 1.5 hours, now skipping dry lube and results are very similar. Slightly quicker to load.

Also keep the powder in the bottle and won’t let it suck up moisture by leaving it in the trickler or the powder thrower for weeks. Not sure if this really matters or not, but i think it does.

Get SDs in the 2 - 8 fps range. Very happy with that. Had one 5 shot group at 1.1 fps SD, a new record for me. Speed is a very constant 2760 fps, for 140 Berger Hybrids, with a predictable impact from ambient temperature changes. H4350 is pretty insensitive to ambient temp changes anyway.

Can now get first shot hits on 8” targets at 400 and 600 yards, with vertical spread of 2-3” at least 90% of the time. Still upgrading my wind reading skills, so 3 to 5” of horizontal error. Would really like that to improve...

Anyway: Much better than before! Thanks to everybody for their advice and contributions. You guys rock!
 
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Minor update: Have found that cases fired multiple times that have not been perfectly cleaned that have consequently built up a layer of hard burnt-on carbon on the outside of the necks (from multiple firings and perhaps annealing as well) will clean up really well with this mix of mineral spirits and Nu-Shine added to the tumbler: Just run it for 4 hours instead of 1.5 hours. Still some carbon on the inside, which is a good thing. The mneral spirits appear to act like a solvent, it seems.

Loaded ammo shot well. No bullet weld!