If you’re talking about making corrections on the clock for a 90s - 2min par time…..it’s not an easy task.
Mirage, you’ll need to have focus on the area where you want to look. Which most times won’t be at the target as the target wind speed is the least important at distances most shoot. So, you’ll either have to be focused closer and shooting a blurred/non parallax free target or you’ll be dialing your parallax on the clock. Both have their pros and cons.
And then you’ll be trying to decipher the angle of mirage for wind value. Which isn’t all that easy.
I would instead do two things for switchy winds:
- As much as possible, use a bracketed wind. For example a left hand wind where the wind picks up and dies, you’ll want to be hitting center-right side on the pickups and center-left on the let offs.
This works if the pick ups and let offs vs target size allows for this.
Normally you always want to be correcting to center each shot. But in the instance of switchy winds, you will forego that in this specific instance as you’re trying to increase your hit % without having to read the wind on the clock.
- when the wind vs target size doesn’t allow for a bracket, I would recommend using your time waiting to shoot on glass and find an object/s in your FoV that indicators of the pickup and let off.
Preferably an object that has something in the fore or background to compare it to.
For example, you find a tree limb that’s behind an unused target in your FoV. When the wind is picked up, the tree limb appears to point to X position on that steel. When the wind lets off, it appears to point to Y position.
Have a wind hold figured out for each position of the tree branch.
Then you don’t have to try to worry with mirage (that may or may not be doing something different due to terrain) and you have very, very defined points and something to make the decision for you on the clock. Before each shot, you take a quick look at the branch, and use the hold for what it’s doing.
