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dry fire training routine

jippy1

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Minuteman
Nov 8, 2019
84
8
South Carolina
so I watched the there trigger control / marrying the trigger vids, from online training section
good stuff

and have seen the objective lens cover things, that let you focus down to 12 fat, at an indoor target
may get one, but I can focus and practice by sighting at things out the window at the field from across the house, for now.

SO MY QUESTIONS IS : WHAT ALL DO I NEED TO BE FOCUSING ON??
since PERFECT practice makes perfect, not just lots of (imperfect) practice

consistent finger placement to trigger, height of finger (from bottom of trigger), and center of pad)
smooth pull
what else?

I guess goal is to focus on a distant object, and execute a smooth pull, AND NOT SEE THE CORSSHAIRS COME OFF OF SAID TARGET??
what else?

will build a barricade soon, and do all above with changes of firing position.
WHAT ELSE??

want to get as much good from my time as possible

is the dime on the barrel thing just for the trigger pull?
or cycling the bolt as well?

WHAT ELSE?

thx
 
Just take a black marker and make a dot or any other POA you want to.

I used cardboard and tape to see closer, just make a small 0.1 hole into it and place it so that the hole matches to the center of objective lens.

Dry-fire is more than just trigger pressing, it involves the whole package.

-Form, you do not have a rush now, take your time to find a GOOD position for your body. Remember, square to the rifle.
-Breathing, you can just take breathing excercises too, but by setting up a correct position you will get that.
-Pressures and handling. Put notice on how much your cheek is applying pressure, left arm, right arm, shoulder - which should not really apply pressure.
 
For form. Place a sticky dot at distance. Orange, white, whatever. Turn zoom low. Practice moving. Try a ladder. Lowest rung, highest, next lowest, etc.. it's about movement. Learn to appreciate the time you have on target, don't focus one moving.

Unlearn the movement. It's just a reaction, not the whole game. If you don't know how to move and have to consciously think about it, then you are a robot. You need to think and focus on the shot release, not about moving.
 
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@Near miss care to explain the pinhole deal?
It will reduce the angle in which light can come in to the objective - thus increasing depth of image and making a scope normally able to focus at 25yds at 7 yds or less. You can probably see even closer with very small hole and intensively lighted target.

In other words, you trade brightness to depth of field. This can be also used to read wind, targets or mirage on a bright day over a long distance by making a hole onto the scope cover.

I have thought of making a 0.5" hole to the scope cover and just covering it with a tape until it is needed but I should first test some different sizes with cardboard maybe. Now I am barely able to see sun during the day.

1280px-Depth_of_field_illustration.svg.png
 
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Got any pictures how big the hole is or is it just trial and error
 
Got any pictures how big the hole is or is it just trial and error
I just poke a small hole with a ball pen and if it is too small I make it larger. Clear hole is better but I am not overly careful with it. I think between 0.1 to 0.2 will be good. I keep it ready and attach it on with tape. It seems much larger ones are used too.

And it also depends on lightning conditions.
 
I just bought the indoor dry firing system. Well worth the $150 and comes with everything I need. It’s got a range at several different heights to make it easy. I have a small barricade and a cattle gate in my basement and I focus on just building solid positions and focusing on fundamentals. Build and break drills with various positions is very helpful.
 
Dryfire is where you work on the mechanics of everything except recoil control and spotting. Break down the process of shooting. Some days shoot from prone and focus on the fundamentals. Shoot from barricades of various heights and work on your wobble zone.
When you really get your wobble zone tight you can see bad npa and trigger pulls and breathing. Good shots the reticle will stay on target. Shots where there is a breakdown of the fundamentals will see .1 mil or more reticle movement when the trigger breaks. With prone it is not as obvious, but it really shows up from a barricade that is barely solid enough to shrink your wobble to half moa.

I have a 16 sided dice that I use to give me a wind speed. I then work on calculating the wind holds and working through a course of fire. I have not written down wind holds since learning the bc method from the everyday sniper podcast. It helps me mentally to correct a bad wind call and calculate the holds for the rest of the shots off of the corrected wind call. When I wrote them down, my brain would want to hold what I wrote down.

Basically, work on everything from the fundamentals to shooting stages under time. It will improve your game and costs very little. A guy still needs to actually shoot a lot though. Reading wind, spotting trace and impacts, and reading target reactions in order to keep correcting to the middle are all huge parts of being successful at matches. Dryfire is a good way to make you subconsciously competent at the other stuff so you can focus on the recoil management, spotting, and adjustment aspect.