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e-series cerakote on bolt made it "gummy"

DudeBro

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Minuteman
Mar 17, 2019
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A couple years ago, I had my T3X action cerakoted in e-series. Since then, I've put 600+ rounds through it and the bolt manipulation now seems pretty "gummy." I can't say for sure if it's been that way all along. I have another bone stock T3X with < 10 rounds through it and that one runs buttery smooth (actually better than my Lone Peak Razor Ti but not quite as good as my new Kelbly).

Any suggestions on how to improve the bolt manipulation?
 
How does one get the cerakote off?
It will most likely have to be abrasive blasted. Could be bead blasted, which is less aggressive.

You might also want to consider having the bolt treated with something like NP-3, if you can find someone to do it. Robar used to do it, but as I understand, they are no longer in business. NP-3 was/is an electroless nickel with teflon additive and is quite nice.

DLC or Black Nitride are other coating options. I can't make any specific recommendations, but find a good, competent "coater" that specializes in firearms finishes.
 
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I would try bead blasting as well.

Could have been worse. I think we’ve all heard a story of someone cerakoting an action before going on a hunting trip only to realize it binded the trigger.
 
I think you're screwed, as noted above, just dont do it in the future. Clean the shit out if it, Lube it up and use it, it will free up. The problem with blasting is it may leave a shitty surface finish.
 
To remove the Cerakote it must be media blasted. It will need to be recoated or polished out afterwards. Ive coated many bolts without issue. Tolerance stacking can be problematic, but gumming up over time is generally not an issue. Maybe an E-series thing (I dont like E-series).

When tolerances are tight or even moderateto heavy use will wear through most any coating depending on what it is.
 
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When tolerances are tight or even moderateto heavy use will wear through most any coating depending on what it is.
Valve grinding compound and work the bolt. Don't get it on the lugs, just the bolt body and raceways. I'd go with the water soluble and 800 grit. You will notice it get smoother. This works for non-coated actions, too.
 
You might also want to consider having the bolt treated with something like NP-3, if you can find someone to do it. Robar used to do it, but as I understand, they are no longer in business. NP-3 was/is an electroless nickel with teflon additive and is quite nice.
Robar's sister company Coating Technologies was always the ones that handled the coating.

Robar is out of business but CT is still in Phoenix and doing business from what I understand.
I have sent hundreds of bolt and bolt parts to them in the past. I no longer use them but they are still there and still offering their coating services.

If Debi Warren is still there, talk to her. I had a crush on her just from phone conversations. 💑
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Robar's sister company Coating Technologies was always the ones that handled the coating.

Robar is out of business but CT is still in Phoenix and doing business from what I understand.
I have sent hundreds of bolt and bolt parts to them in the past. I no longer use them but they are still there and still offering their coating services.

If Debi Warren is still there, talk to her. I had a crush on her just from phone conversations. 💑
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Pics ? :unsure: ;)
 
Valve grinding compound and work the bolt. Don't get it on the lugs, just the bolt body and raceways. I'd go with the water soluble and 800 grit. You will notice it get smoother. This works for non-coated actions, too.
I just turn the bolt body 0.002”-0.003” before Cerakote. Lugs and primary extraction cam are untouched. Usually I can tell and have a pretty good history of bolt body diameters to know what dimension(s) are required in the factory Rem 700.

Picked this up in a post from LRI years ago.
 
I just turn the bolt body 0.002”-0.003” before Cerakote. Lugs and primary extraction cam are untouched. Usually I can tell and have a pretty good history of bolt body diameters to know what dimension(s) are required in the factory Rem 700.

Picked this up in a post from LRI years ago.
A little late now for the OP....
 
I had an action cerakoted once, seemed like a good idea at the time... what's the old expression? Something about not learning from others experience? Well... I learned (the hard way)... never again.

NP3 is nice, but have you heard of Birdsong? Green-T or Black-T depending on your preference... they will both run just fine. ;-)
 
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I had an action cerakoted once, seemed like a good idea at the time... what's the old expression? Something about not learning from others experience? Well... I learned (the hard way)... never again.

NP3 is nice, but have you heard of Birdsong? Green-T or Black-T depending on your preference... they will both run just fine. ;-)
Same. Was talked into it by a smith friend. Can’t remember the type of cerakote but it was supposed to be slim and slick. My bolt was/is pretty worn from many rounds so it didn’t stick in the action or anything, but it also wore off pretty quickly. Not worth the coin for me.
 
I had an action cerakoted once, seemed like a good idea at the time... what's the old expression? Something about not learning from others experience? Well... I learned (the hard way)... never again.

NP3 is nice, but have you heard of Birdsong? Green-T or Black-T depending on your preference... they will both run just fine. ;-)
Yep.
I have a few bolts that I had cerakoted, not sure what series. Never an issue but also not all that durable and the bolts show plenty of wear to the cerakote. I don't care in the least since the bolts are and always have been real smooth operating.
I have Duracoated several bolts myself. The POS Kimber Mountain Ascent was improved by the paint. Everything else seems to have been unaffected by whatever thickness the paint is. The Duracoat is also not all that durable when used on the bolt and, again, I could not care any less that the finish has worn.
Will I paint or cerakote more bolts?
Yep. In a heart beat. If it makes the bolt a little sticky or whatever, I will just work that bolt aggressively and probably with some valve grinding compound until it smooths up.
 
A little late now for the OP....
WTF???

I originally responded in May of 2022. YOU quoted my post from 2022. I didn’t dig this up. And how is my response any later than your lapping compound?

If you aren’t trying to be a smart-ass, you’re doing a great job without trying.

FYI - almost anyone can remove 0.002” - 0.003” from a bolt sandpaper and a cordless drill.

PS - My reply is for anyone who reads it. Not necessarily the OP.
 
Well, I wasn't trying to be a smartass but I don't really give a fuck that you got your panties in a wad.