Effing Redding dies

hafejd30

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    Excess lube is probably producing some of those lines. It will push out and form to length.
    Have you sanded down the neck/shoulder junction of a sacrificial case yet?

    @hafejd30
    Have you checked for stickage because of a groove worn into the collet?
    It will hold the tapers together causing a case to drag going in.
    The collet stays stuck and partly closed down. I have to polish mine.
    I take mine apart and polish/lube the collet and mandrel etc before using

    Been using Lee collet dies for about 12 years. Use for 6.5/260/308 and 300 WM. Only issues I’ve ever ran into was from that tacky residue left by my annealer when I first started using them. Once I started cleaning the cases up either with steel wool or tumbling I haven’t had an issue since.

    I use Frankfort arsenal lube when I FL size. I use no lube on the Lee collet dies
     
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    918v

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    The way I'm reading it, you're adding .002, correct? So I'd go from 1.633 to 1.635 with the smallest shell holder. No way to reduce it down to 1.626 just using the shell holders, I can only add? Or am I completely backwards on that one?

    Yes, the competition shell holder only adds length to the shoulder. If you need more bump you need to solve the hard sizing issue. A case that is hard to size will receive the least shoulder bump.
     

    918v

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    Ok but why are they easy in the Hornady? And why are the Cross cases also just as hard to size in the Redding?

    Maybe because you have a big chamber? How big is your chamber? How much is the die sizing? .006”? .002”? The latter is a lot easier to size than the former.
     

    AllenOne1

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    If you can get your money back from the vendor I would do that asap. Stop fighting an issue that shouldn't exist. I gave up on Redding dies and have moved on.

    If you still want to try the bushing die the Whidden has worked great for me. Of course the Hornady Match, Wilson, Short Action Customs $$$ will all work better for you than what you are experiencing with the Redding.

    The Redding Imperial lube or Hornady Unique will work very good.
     

    918v

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    Welcome to redding dies. Worst internal finish in the industry. Get rid of it and buy any other bushing die. Hornady match, whidden, etc.

    I have a Lee FL die whose internal finish looks absolutely horrible. It should have been rejected. But it sizes brass smoothly and without issue.

    I shoot range pickup brass all the time. The only ones that are hard to resize are cases fired out of those “special” chambers. They all have the flute lines.
     

    Supersubes

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    I shoot range pickup brass all the time. The only ones that are hard to resize are cases fired out of those “special” chambers. They all have the flute lines.
    The difference there is your three die lee set with shell holder cost half what a single Redding S die costs. Its at least understandable they’d have a trash finish.

    I used redding for years, and own several grand worth of comp sets and various other dies. Based on the number of high effort Redding dies I ended up with, I started taking castings of them. Dimensionally theyre usually correct, and match other dies, they just take much more effort. I have eight or nine hornady match sizers up to 300 NM. Every single one of them looks like a Whidden inside, and I can fl size with shoulder bump using only my index finger on the press handle. Thats with One Shot lube. Prior to covid, a Hornady match FL die cost half what a single Redding S die costs. The price has crept up on them recently. Still $30 cheaper than a Redding though. And dont get me started on Redding bushings….😂
     

    918v

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    The difference there is your three die lee set with shell holder cost half what a single Redding S die costs. Its at least understandable they’d have a trash finish.

    But they size smoothly despite the poor finish. It’s not the surface finish that is to blame here.
     

    Krob95

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    If you’re set on using a bushing die, just get a whidden die. Folks either like them or hate them, but my whidden die for my 22GT is pretty damn nice, and sizes like butter. If you’re just looking for another due to try out and not bushing type, mighty armory makes a damn nice sizing die.

    I would send and email to who ever you purchased the die from requesting to ship it back for a refund and have them deal with Redding.

    Or you can send me that die, and I can run a handful of some 1x fired federal brass out of my AI through it 😂
     

    DeathBeforeDismount

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    I just realized you're referring to the trimmer when the rest of us are talking about resizing dies. I have a Giraud. Why would I trim before sizing the die? Go back and read the entire thread, I took out the neck bushing to remove it from the equation. The brass isn't getting hung up on the neck bushing but rather the main portion of the resizing die either having a bad finish or being undersized.
    It helps with die feeding. You always want to run virgin or once fired cases through the trimmer to reduce the ammount of friction when sizing the first time. You probably arent using enough lube either. I had a similar thing happen with a redding type S 6.5cm die and ended up scrapping it. Replaced with Wilson and it runs so much smoother now. It can be a combination of all these things working against you.
     

    Supersubes

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    But they size smoothly despite the poor finish. It’s not the surface finish that is to blame here.
    OP could certainly have a chamber size thats adding to his issue.

    Something else to consider. Without measuring RA/RZ of a surface finish, we’re just guessing. I dont have the equipment to take those measurements, but I can take detailed dimensions of the die shape and the fired cases. Then the sizing effort is the proof. Something Redding is doing isnt right ime. I would wager that Lee of yours is simply rough in the right way.

    There’s zero doubt in my mind that anyone who buys Redding is paying premium money for dies that are average at best.
     
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    B y r o n

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    I would hope! With the Hornady die, zero problem achieving that. With the Redding screwed down against the shell holder, I can get a minimum of 1.633 on my comparator. I need 1.626 as twice fired cases are 1.628. I have a CarbonSix barrel on the sig, not the stock barrel. I'd have to go back and look what my headspace was with the stock barrel.

    Edit: I took the bushing out to remove it from the equation.

    It sounds like one of the problems you have is that the headspace on your Sig is below SAAMI spec. You might take a look at this info. I could be mistaken but die manufactures create their dies to bring brass back to SAAMI minimum spec and you are trying to make your brass 0.004" below that.

    With regard to your lube problem, it doesn't really matter what you FEEL is the correct amount of lube. If a case sticks in the die you didn't use enough lube or simply did not cover the entire case with it.

    Instead of beating cases out of your die you might look into purchasing a stuck case remover kit.
     

    Short Round

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    Yes, the competition shell holder only adds length to the shoulder. If you need more bump you need to solve the hard sizing issue. A case that is hard to size will receive the least shoulder bump.


    One can polish a shell holder or the die mouth itself to shorten a sizing combo. move the item in figure 8s on a flat bench stone.

    I have a couple sets of the Redding Competition shellholders. The set and the regular shell holder have no fixed relationship as in your regular shellholder is unlikely to be the 0.00 to the +0.002-0.010 set. Kind of a nuisance.

    iirc without looking at my notes, my .260 die just barely sizes tothe minimum my pair of .260s were cut to. My smith always cuts chamber to minimum unless you tell him otherwise. In fact iirc none of my Redding shell holders were right to bump the shoulders enough, I used an older RCBS one that gave a little more bump and was still in full cam over.
     
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    918v

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    I think the OP should separate the Sig and POF fired brass and measure the shoulder and base diameter to compare them to what the die sizes to. He should also remove the bushing from the die and just run it as a body die for now until this problem is solved.
     

    spife7980

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    I think the OP should separate the Sig and POF fired brass and measure the shoulder and base diameter to compare them to what the die sizes to. He should also remove the bushing from the die and just run it as a body die for now until this problem is solved.
    Yes, and then share the measurements. So often people finally measure stuff and say "oh, it was obviously x" when they come to report back.

    I had a 6 creed die that was bad at the start of this year, like the finish reamer didnt get past where they had predrilled it andthe shoulder was wonky. But I gave them an actual pic and some measurements and they had me send it in and had a new die out within the week. When you can point to where the issue actually is redding is extremely responsive, ime.
     

    hafejd30

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    Not to derail the thread but has anyone ran a bore mop with gun brite polish on a drill into their body of their Redding dies?

    I plan to start working with my 300 PRC and plan to run Redding type S FL sizer. Then 21st century mandrel and Redding comp seater

    Also have considered sending in case/bullet for a Lee collet die in 300 PRC paired with a Redding body die. Which is my go to in other setups
     
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    Taylorbok

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    I got a Redding die second hand for my 300 RUM. I stuck a bunch of cases maybe got one or 2 sized. I put it back in the box and swore to never use it again.
     

    Supersubes

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    Not to derail the thread but has anyone ran a bore mop with gun brite polish on a drill into their body of their Redding dies?

    I plan to start working with my 300 PRC and plan to run Redding type S FL sizer. Then 21st century mandrel and Redding comp seater

    Also have considered sending in case/bullet for a Lee collet die in 300 PRC paired with a Redding body die. Which is my go to in other setups
    Consider that for a small premium over a redding type s, you can send a fired case to Harrell’s precision and they select the die for you. They have multiple (6-8) different dies for every cartridge, and select the one that fits best. You can do basically the same thing with Whidden.
     

    ma smith

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    Consider that for a small premium over a redding type s, you can send a fired case to Harrell’s precision and they select the die for you. They have multiple (6-8) different dies for every cartridge, and select the one that fits best. You can do basically the same thing with Whidden.
    Also with forster...IIRC
     

    spife7980

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    Consider that for a small premium over a redding type s, you can send a fired case to Harrell’s precision and they select the die for you. They have multiple (6-8) different dies for every cartridge, and select the one that fits best. You can do basically the same thing with Whidden.
    But only in PPC, BR Remington, 6.5 x 47 and Dasher according to their website https://harrellsprec.com/index.php/products/full-length-die


    Also with forster...IIRC
    You arent exactly in the way that harrels does for the whole case, forster will hone the neck diameter and thats it. https://www.forsterproducts.com/resources/custom-machining-service/
     
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    Rocketvapor

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    The "standard" shell holder thickness is 0.125".
    The Competition Shellholder Set DECREASES headspace by 2, 4, 6 ,8, 10 thou.
    I got this wrong:
    That is each one sizes MORE than a standard.
    Makes sense, since you can size LESS by backing out the die .

    Yup backwards. So confusing.
    :)
     
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    Supersubes

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    The "standard" shell holder thickness is 0.125".
    The Competition Shellholder Set DECREASES headspace by 2, 4, 6 ,8, 10 thou.
    That is each one sizes MORE than a standard.
    Makes sense, since you can size LESS by backing out the die :)
    You have that backwards. The point is for the die to be in contact with the shell holder for consistent sizing.
     

    Rocketvapor

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    I have a Lee press with a hard stop. I get consistent sizing with the die locked down and NOT touching.
    Sounds like you would need two dies or shell holders to size for a minimum headspace target bolt rifle (0.001" to 0.002") and a little more for an AR (0.003" to 0.004").
    Some use shims to get a longer case (shorter headspace).
    Some trust the die manufacturer to know what they want.
    OR, buy the $70 Competition Shellholder Set which ONLY makes shorter cases.
     
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    Supersubes

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    I have a Lee press with a hard stop. I get consistent sizing with the die locked down and NOT touching.
    Sounds like you would need two dies or shell holders to size for a minimum headspace target bolt rifle and a little more for an AR.
    Some use shims to get a longer case (shorter headspace).
    OR, buy the $70 Competition Shellholder Set which ONLY makes shorter cases.
    Think about this another way. FL dies oversize by design, so every cartridge fits in every in-spec chamber. Thats how they got a bad name, people screw them all the way, and end up oversizing. Redding comps add height to the top of the shell holder, to hold the case further out of the die so you can minimally size a case. It also allows easy headspace changes for multiple with different chambers instead of chasing a die height ever time you reload.

    You can get consistent sizing without contact with the shell holder, but its far more consistent if you can contact it. The reason is press deflection.
     

    Rocketvapor

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    Now you can control headspace. The new Redding Competition Shellholders are packaged in five piece sets in .002” increments (+.002”, +.004”. +.006”, +.008” and +.010”). Each shellholder has a distinct black oxide finish and is clearly marked to indicate the amount it will decrease case-to-chamber headspace. You can now easily adjust the shoulder bump to customize cases to your specific chamber.

    Which dimension, Red or Blue does the Competition set modify?
    Red-or-Blue.jpg
     
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    Supersubes

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    Now you can control headspace. The new Redding Competition Shellholders are packaged in five piece sets in .002” increments (+.002”, +.004”. +.006”, +.008” and +.010”). Each shellholder has a distinct black oxide finish and is clearly marked to indicate the amount it will decrease case-to-chamber headspace. You can now easily adjust the shoulder bump to customize cases to your specific chamber.
    Vague wording, it does decrease if you go from .010 to .002, which is leading to your mistake. Been using these for 20 years. Why would anyone, let alone a competition shooter, want to take a full length die that already oversizes, and size further still?
     

    Supersubes

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    Now you can control headspace. The new Redding Competition Shellholders are packaged in five piece sets in .002” increments (+.002”, +.004”. +.006”, +.008” and +.010”). Each shellholder has a distinct black oxide finish and is clearly marked to indicate the amount it will decrease case-to-chamber headspace. You can now easily adjust the shoulder bump to customize cases to your specific chamber.

    Which dimension, Red or Blue does the Competition set modify?
    View attachment 7974535
    Blue, its taller there by the amount indicated on the shellholder.
     

    Rocketvapor

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    Thanks,
    So it hold the case further out of the die making the base to datum longer, sizing less.
    Found this
    The five shellholders are +.002", +.004", +.006", +.008", and +.010" thicker than normal shellholders (.125" from the bottom of the case head cut to the top of the shellholder).
    I guess that sort of means the thickness from the top red line to the top blue line is increased 2,4,6,8,10.
    I don't have a set so you would know best.
     

    Supersubes

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    So it hold the case further out of the die making the base to datum longer, sizing less.
    Found this
    The five shellholders are +.002", +.004", +.006", +.008", and +.010" thicker than normal shellholders (.125" from the bottom of the case head cut to the top of the shellholder).
    Yes
     
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    Rocketvapor

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    @Supersubes,
    Thanks for setting me straight.
    Head hurts now :)
    Less is more, more is less.
    $70 is too much.

    I set my hard stop Lee press to get the headspace I want.
    Results repeat pretty much.
    I be cheap :)
    HeadSpace-1.jpg
     
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    Supersubes

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    Head hurts now :)
    Less is more, more is less.
    $70 is too much.
    Think of how easy it is to set up dies with them. Set the press to cam over on a standard shell holder, put in the + .010, then size. Measure how far you are over, do the math, put the right one in and go. No matter how flexible your press is, you always get the same sizing. Multiple rifles in same caliber? Change the shell holder instead of chasing a dies setting every time you switch.


    Some dies dont allow use with these sets. Whidden is an example. Very short dies. The .260 rem die im using now will push a shoulder .012 below a go-gauge. For a fee, Redding will custom make them to any number you want also. I do more than my fair share of shit talking Redding, but this is a great product in an area of reloading that even some fairly experienced people fuck up a lot.
     

    txtaxman

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    My sized headspace measurements were all over the map. From 1.620 to 1.628 depending on the size of the pre-sized fired case. ......

    I threw in a few fired from my AR10 which are in the 1.630+ range. Those would size down to 1.626, my target. If I then took a fired case that was 1.626 already, it'd size down to 1.618 to 1.620 with no adjustments to the die. I really don't understand this as I'm mechanically limiting the amount of bump. All brass is the exact same head stamp.

    Any suggestions greatly appreciated.
    -Per Redding's instruction, I raised the ram, screwed the die down until it was just touching, backed it out 1/4 turn.
    ........
    -Pulling the case out and measuring, headspace is now 1.638. Assuming the case being resized is pushing the shoulder up.
    -Raising the ram and screwing the Redding die til it's just touching, I lock it in place and size another piece. Starting headspace 1.634. Ending, 1.633. And there it is.

    At it's minimum setting the die, with my RCBS "standard" shell holder, will not size below 1.633. So if I'm seeing this, and turning the die further in to achieve 1.626, I'm most likely introducing inconsistencies in the cam over as I fully lower the handle. THAT'S where the inconsistent head spacing happens.

    The way I'm reading it, you're adding .002, correct? So I'd go from 1.633 to 1.635 with the smallest shell holder. No way to reduce it down to 1.626 just using the shell holders, I can only add? Or am I completely backwards on that one?
    Ape_Factory,
    As I see it, you have two issues here. One is your Redding dies; sorry, I cannot offer any help for that.

    The other issue is inconsistent results while full length sizing cases. In this I can offer some comments.

    In your situation, the Redding Competition Shell Holders could be the answer. If I read correctly, you can size the cases down to 1.618 by using the standard shell holder with enough lube and cam over. So, by using the +0.008 shell holder plus enough lube and cam over, you would have the desired 1.626.

    The thing is, you are not mechanically limiting the amount of bump, unless there is no gap between the bottom of the die and the top of the shell holder at the top of the sizing stroke under load.

    The only way I have been able to achieve consistent measurements is by adjusting the sizing die down for enough cam over that there is no gap between the bottom of the die and the top of the shell holder at the top of the sizing stroke under load. If there is a gap, it will vary depending on the case's resistance to sizing.
     

    Supersubes

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    I guess the cam over is more repeatable than a hard stop press.
    Can't cam over with mine.
    Some day I'll upgrade.
    View attachment 7974565
    General term, given all the press designs. Having firm contact between die and shellholder, short of a full stroke, then pushing past that to the press stops would be “camming over” the way we use the term. Just how much you need depends on how flexy your press is given the amount of work you’re doing.
     
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    Ape_Factory

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    Ok back from the day job which always gets in the way of reloading. ;) Cliff notes before I get to all the quotes below, I purchased from Midway and I can send everything back for a refund. I'll purchase something through them as that's great customer support and I'll support them in return.

    Ya I saw the post about Hornady working. Just wondering if maybe the rougher finish on the Redding die combined with a rougher texture on the shoulder of the brass may cause the issue
    I just don't know to be honest as I have no way of really measuring how rough the inside is. I really think it's a dimensional issue combined with the lack of lapping but I don't really know.

    You tumble after annealing?
    I do but AFTER resizing and trimming.
    Generally, my process is this for the bolt gun:
    -Deprime and swage if necessary. Sometimes I unify too if I'm feeling frisky.
    -Wet tumble w/stainless pins and dry in the dehumidifier.
    -Anneal
    -Resize case
    -Use a neck mandrel to resize neck ID and set tension (21st Century)
    -Trim if necessary on a Giraud
    -Wet tumble again with stainless media, use dehumidifier to dry.

    At this point I'm ready to load and I don't have any lube causing powder to get stuck high up on the neck. I was running into that with 300 blackout and it just annoyed me for some reason even though the bullet seating probably pushed it all down.

    I just pulled an annealed case and it's not sticky or tacky per se but it's "grippy" like bare metal would be if that makes sense? But it's otherwise smooth.

    Excess lube is probably producing some of those lines. It will push out and form to length.
    Have you sanded down the neck/shoulder junction of a sacrificial case yet?

    @hafejd30
    Have you checked for stickage because of a groove worn into the collet?
    It will hold the tapers together causing a case to drag going in.
    The collet stays stuck and partly closed down. I have to polish mine.
    Yeah, I could definitely see the extra lube causing that. Just haven't seen it before. Those were 4X fired brass out of my AR so I don't necessarily polish them up or anything. I have not checked for grooves in the collet but will do so tonight.
    Lets get some actual measurements here, lets see just how much the case is getting sized everywhere vs just the one single measurement.
    Here is my 6.5 creed and its resultant measurements from my redding type s full length, just like you are using.
    View attachment 7974281

    Taking the base down 3k would make for some super tough sizing regardless of where the shoulder is getting pushed to for example. The answer is in the actual numbers somewhere.
    I'll measure. Someone mentioned a hard case not sizing all the way so maybe that's the case here. I'll measure an unsized and sized here shortly.
    Could be operator error. I've been using Redding Type S Match dies for years on everything from 223 to 300 win mag. I full length size with RCBS case lube, works perfect.
    Absolutely could be user error! I've been reloading for a grand total of 3.5 years I think. But I do what I think is a pretty good job. Not unusual for me to have loads with SD's in the 3.0 range and occasionally less. Still, I have a ton to learn which is why I'm here!
    Yes, the competition shell holder only adds length to the shoulder. If you need more bump you need to solve the hard sizing issue. A case that is hard to size will receive the least shoulder bump.
    Ok there it is...I could see that. I usually raise the press and let it simmer for 3 seconds for spring back.
    Maybe because you have a big chamber? How big is your chamber? How much is the die sizing? .006”? .002”? The latter is a lot easier to size than the former.
    Will measure here shortly and report back.
    If you can get your money back from the vendor I would do that asap. Stop fighting an issue that shouldn't exist. I gave up on Redding dies and have moved on.

    If you still want to try the bushing die the Whidden has worked great for me. Of course the Hornady Match, Wilson, Short Action Customs $$$ will all work better for you than what you are experiencing with the Redding.

    The Redding Imperial lube or Hornady Unique will work very good.
    Done. Bought through Midway, they even send you a shipping label. Will start researching dies tonight, definitely want a neck bushing die to try and improve over what I'm doing currently with a non-bushing resizing die. I'll look at Whidden and the rest.
    I have a Lee FL die whose internal finish looks absolutely horrible. It should have been rejected. But it sizes brass smoothly and without issue.

    I shoot range pickup brass all the time. The only ones that are hard to resize are cases fired out of those “special” chambers. They all have the flute lines.
    I took bore scope photos of the POF, I'll post those up in a bit.
    The difference there is your three die lee set with shell holder cost half what a single Redding S die costs. Its at least understandable they’d have a trash finish.

    I used redding for years, and own several grand worth of comp sets and various other dies. Based on the number of high effort Redding dies I ended up with, I started taking castings of them. Dimensionally theyre usually correct, and match other dies, they just take much more effort. I have eight or nine hornady match sizers up to 300 NM. Every single one of them looks like a Whidden inside, and I can fl size with shoulder bump using only my index finger on the press handle. Thats with One Shot lube. Prior to covid, a Hornady match FL die cost half what a single Redding S die costs. The price has crept up on them recently. Still $30 cheaper than a Redding though. And dont get me started on Redding bushings….😂
    That's what really bothers me; the cost differential between the Hornady that just plain works out of the box and the Redding which doesn't. Have to say I wasn't all that impressed with their micrometer seating die either. The Hornady mic seems more precise and smoother to operate. Go figure.
    If you’re set on using a bushing die, just get a whidden die. Folks either like them or hate them, but my whidden die for my 22GT is pretty damn nice, and sizes like butter. If you’re just looking for another due to try out and not bushing type, mighty armory makes a damn nice sizing die.

    I would send and email to who ever you purchased the die from requesting to ship it back for a refund and have them deal with Redding.

    Or you can send me that die, and I can run a handful of some 1x fired federal brass out of my AI through it 😂
    Why do some hate the Whidden? I'll look at Mighty Armory too. I know there's some really high end stuff out there but I'm just beginning my long range journey with .308 which is fairly forgiving. But willing to look at whatever.
    It sounds like one of the problems you have is that the headspace on your Sig is below SAAMI spec. You might take a look at this info. I could be mistaken but die manufactures create their dies to bring brass back to SAAMI minimum spec and you are trying to make your brass 0.004" below that.

    With regard to your lube problem, it doesn't really matter what you FEEL is the correct amount of lube. If a case sticks in the die you didn't use enough lube or simply did not cover the entire case with it.

    Instead of beating cases out of your die you might look into purchasing a stuck case remover kit.
    The Sig's headspace is on the tight side but within SAMMI spec. Measurements are using a Hornady comparator. I've shot a few varieties of factory ammo and the bolt closes easily on all of them. No issues there. Was set up properly by a gunsmith when swapping in the new barrel.
    I think the OP should separate the Sig and POF fired brass and measure the shoulder and base diameter to compare them to what the die sizes to. He should also remove the bushing from the die and just run it as a body die for now until this problem is solved.
    I can do that no problem. I just pulled out the POF stuff just to see plus I have a lot of it, both PMC bronze and Lake City. For the Cross, I'm using the PMC X-Tac brass only right now which has a date stamp. Once I get more proficient/better, I'll purchase "better" brass.

    I've been running it without the bushing to eliminate that as an issue.
    Yes, and then share the measurements. So often people finally measure stuff and say "oh, it was obviously x" when they come to report back.

    I had a 6 creed die that was bad at the start of this year, like the finish reamer didnt get past where they had predrilled it andthe shoulder was wonky. But I gave them an actual pic and some measurements and they had me send it in and had a new die out within the week. When you can point to where the issue actually is redding is extremely responsive, ime.
    Will do. I mean I sent the die back to them with five fired cases. The four they sized didn't all have the same headspace measurement but maybe they weren't aiming for that, just to make sure the cases could be sized. I may not have the equipment to measure the inside of the die with that sort of precision though. I'll be mailing it back to Midway at some point this week.
     

    hafejd30

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    My “go to” is Lee collet die/Redding body die for sizing.

    I may even look into the custom Collet die for my 300 PRC
     
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    FLIGHT762

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    Why do some hate the Whidden? I'll look at Mighty Armory too. I know there's some really high end stuff out there but I'm just beginning my long range journey with .308 which is fairly forgiving. But willing to look at whatever.
    Just a FYI on the Mighty Armory F/L 308 die. I first bought a 223 die. It worked perfectly with all of the types of brass I have. I then bought a 308 die. That 308 die wouldn't bump the case shoulders down far enough. I contacted them and sent the die back and had them skim about .008" off of the bottom of the die. The die then worked perfectly, however, a note that I have some old Winchester and Hornady 308 brass that is very thin, cases weigh under 160 Gr. Those cases need a .333" bushing (for the Hornady) and a .331" bushing (for the Winchester).

    The Mighty Armory 308 die will not size down those case necks to hold a bullet. Any brass that uses a .335" + bushing, the die works fine.

    Shortly after I received my die back, Mighty Armory started to offer their Gold match sizing dies in a -.005" option. Apparently, I wasn't the only one having this issue.

    If you're going to buy the die, I would get the -.005 version. The really nice thing is their decapping pins can be switched out from the standard .074" to the smaller, .057" for small flash hole cases.
     

    Ape_Factory

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    Ok..brass size.

    Sig Cross, twice fired NOT Resized X-Tac brass.
    Base is .469, midway is .463 and .457 right below the transition to the shoulder.

    Sig Cross, twice fired, resized with the Redding die
    Base is .468, midway is .459, and .450 right below the transition to shoulder.

    POF, once fired, NOT resized X-Tac brass
    Base is .470, midway is .463 and .456 right below the transition to the shoulder.

    POF, once fired, resized with the Redding die
    Base is .469, midway is .458 and .449 right below the transition to shoulder

    The E2 chamber in the POF leaves a telltale mark on the brass so I know which is which.
     

    Ape_Factory

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    Chamber pics.

    POF first. Took a pic of the E2 channel, there's four of them, which helps with extraction.




    Took the right angle mirror off for the Cross.
     

    spife7980

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    Ok..brass size.

    Sig Cross, twice fired NOT Resized X-Tac brass.
    Base is .469, midway is .463 and .457 right below the transition to the shoulder.

    Sig Cross, twice fired, resized with the Redding die
    Base is .468, midway is .459, and .450 right below the transition to shoulder.

    POF, once fired, NOT resized X-Tac brass
    Base is .470, midway is .463 and .456 right below the transition to the shoulder.

    POF, once fired, resized with the Redding die
    Base is .469, midway is .458 and .449 right below the transition to shoulder

    The E2 chamber in the POF leaves a telltale mark on the brass so I know which is which.
    That’s why it’s tough. You’re going from a large chamber to a small sizing die.
    F84017B6-2A1A-4912-974B-CEB74AE3E8E6.jpeg

    The base is getting squeeze a thou more than ideal too (imo).
    Just a poor match between chamber and die, max to min.
    I bet the hornady dies split the difference in the fired to sized dimension. If you had a tight chamber the hornady might not work for you then where the Redding might, it’s just the way things work sometimes.
     
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    Ape_Factory

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    I'll have to measure a few sized cases with the Hornady. Forgot to do that but I have a bunch that are already sized.
     

    Earnhardt

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    Is the used case in question from a bolt gun or an AR?
    Thanks
     

    Rocketvapor

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    Hey even a know it all like me learned stuff here :)
    The wife and I have a 600 F-Class match Saturday (new range close by, Saorsa Acres).

    Sort of a new couples thing for us.
    Will put my reloading skills to the test.
     
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    Juma

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    Got Redding dies and T7 press. Save yourself some grief. Anneal your brass every time. If 223 use a SB die, take out the expander and viola you will get bug holes. Go that trick partially off the dude Froggy. Love the SB die. Magic die.
     

    Ape_Factory

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    Thanks Juma, I do anneal every time. We're talking .308 here but I do reload for 223 as well. I've not used a SB die on any of the cartridges I load for as it hasn't been needed and an SB can overwork the brass. I don't ever use the expander balls and set neck tension with a separate 21st Century nitrided mandrel.
     

    Short Round

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    Now you can control headspace. The new Redding Competition Shellholders are packaged in five piece sets in .002” increments (+.002”, +.004”. +.006”, +.008” and +.010”). Each shellholder has a distinct black oxide finish and is clearly marked to indicate the amount it will decrease case-to-chamber headspace. You can now easily adjust the shoulder bump to customize cases to your specific chamber.

    Which dimension, Red or Blue does the Competition set modify?
    View attachment 7974535


    Technically the dimension of interest is the top blue line to the top red line. That is the amount of casing that cannot go in the die. Top of shellholder to the base the brass sits on.
     
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