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Experiences with Savage 110 BA Stealth .338 Lapua Magnum

Benito

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Aug 12, 2011
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I am doing research on this rifle, and am curious to hear input from guys here on this in .338 Lapua Magnum.
It is significantly less expensive than other chassis .338 LM rifles, so am wondering if this is reflected in it's precision, etc.
I haven't been able to find much information, results, etc.
 
The original ones that first came out, where pretty much junk.

The chambers were cut incorrectly rounds were sticking, people were having to hammer them out. They showed really early signs of overpressure.

I think at some point Savage finally corrected the problems, but I am not sure if there is a solid way to know at what point that happened?

Sorry, but everyone that I know who had one, ultimately got rid of them.

Hopefully someone can comment on some of the more recent production ones?

EDIT, FYI
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/brass-extraction-problem-new-savage-338-lm.104416/

https://www.longrangehunting.com/threads/savage-110ba-338-lapua-problems.123924/
Once again, these are older issues, so if you are buying a used rifle, something to consider.
 
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Thanks, I have never heard of that, but that definitely sounds bad if true. Yikes.
 
There was the original 110BA, then the more recent Stealth, and now the Stealth Evolution, if I'm not mistaken. The original was the heavy one, and I have a 2nd gen Stealth (totally different barrel . . .). Only 30 rounds in, but no issues whatsoever so far. The bolt is a tad gritty, but I expext that to smooth out in time. Still not sure what I think of the stock . . . The Evolution is a gen past that, and I have never touched one. All in all, a tad coarse in areas, but seems well worth the cost, and seems pretty decently made.
 
There was the original 110BA, then the more recent Stealth, and now the Stealth Evolution, if I'm not mistaken. The original was the heavy one, and I have a 2nd gen Stealth (totally different barrel . . .). Only 30 rounds in, but no issues whatsoever so far. The bolt is a tad gritty, but I expext that to smooth out in time. Still not sure what I think of the stock . . . The Evolution is a gen past that, and I have never touched one. All in all, a tad coarse in areas, but seems well worth the cost, and seems pretty decently made.

Is yours in .338 Lapua Magnum?
 
The Evolution looks like a very nice setup. Magpul PRS stock, extended rail (in case you are looking to use a clip-on optic in front of your main optic). My only concern/question is about the barrel profile/thickness. It looks rather light for a precision rifle. The Savage 110 BA Stealth (& Stealth Evolution) .338 Lapua Magnum weighs about the same (11 lbs) as a Ruger Precision Rifle in 6.5 Creedmor (same barrel length, 24") whereas a Barrett MRAD in .338 Lapua Magnum weighs a good 3 lbs more. I realize that weight difference could be coming from places other than just the barrel, but it must be partly from the barrel based on the relative thicknesses of the barrel profiles.
 
Mine was fine in factory 1st during.

Load it 92+ Grains H1000 (like a lot of us run 338s) using reloaded brass... even lapua much less softer stuff and report back how extraction is.

I would never have a 110 338 again. But that’s just my 2cents
 
I have a 2nd generation 338 Stealth Lapua (the current model). Haven't shot it much, but seems plenty accurate with 92 grs H7977, a 250 gr Lapua Scenar bullet, and Lapua brass. The Drake chassis is kind of simple but it works fine. Could use a softer pad, though.

The Evolution (which is no longer on the Savage website in 338 Lapua) has the Magpul stock and 5R rifling, neither of which I think will buy you much if anything (maybe a little less shoulder soreness if the pad is softer).

Definitely the most inexpensive way to get into tactical shooting with a 338 Lapua. You would have to pay a lot more to get something better and even then there are so many factors regarding accuracy there is no guarantee of any improvement.
 
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Mine was fine in factory 1st during.

Load it 92+ Grains H1000 (like a lot of us run 338s) using reloaded brass... even lapua much less softer stuff and report back how extraction is.

I would never have a 110 338 again. But that’s just my 2cents

I'm curious why you would not get a 110 .338 again. Is it personal preference, or did you run into any particular issues?
 
I'm curious why you would not get a 110 .338 again. Is it personal preference, or did you run into any particular issues?

I have had a few custom 338s,1 stock Police 700 along with the 110 Savage Stealth. Other than the barrel twisting loose the first couple rounds, the savage shot very well. I had the Savage as an extra 338.

In general, the aftermarket support and the fact that the extractor systems is poor at best. So other than one place who makes a retro-fit ball, spring bolt head that kinda helps, but is not a "fix" etc.. you're kinda at a near dead end, even if you rebarrel.

For me and others I knew, we found that as long as you shoot factory rounds the gun was fine. As soon as you started using softer brass like Horandy with 285s on the multiple firings, extraction became an issue. Lapua was better as long as you didn't run over 92gr of H1000 with heaver bullets or stayed with a lighter 250gr. Because we wanted to hit normal velocity windows to shoot ELR, the minute we tried using reformed brass with 285s, 300s or Solids, run on the hot edge, we needed to run around the front of the gun with a cleaning rod and bang out the cases.
Maybe they have fixed it today, but with their extractor system, I am very, very suspect. While the people I was exposed to shooting ELR all had the same type of issue to a varying degree, I am sure guys shooting factory, and light hand-loads like 250's with 92 H1000 are very happy.

FWIW, no disrespect to guys running 92grn with 250s with H1000, but Hogdon's published max load is around 98grns and it isn't uncommon to see people over published n ELR guns with custom actions and barrels.

So you need to ask yourself when 20 round of match grade factory runs over $5 round with reloads well over $100, is saving a couple of thousand over a custom really worth the headache? I'f your just going to want to say "I have a 338" shoot a few rounds and put in your safe, that might be a different story.

Just my 2 cents again no disrespect to anyone.

edited to add.. reloads over $1 - not $100 LOL
 
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I have had a few custom 338s,1 stock Police 700 along with the 110 Savage Stealth. Other than the barrel twisting loose the first couple rounds, the savage shot very well. I had the Savage as an extra 338.

In general, the aftermarket support and the fact that the extractor systems is poor at best. So other than one place who makes a retro-fit ball, spring bolt head that kinda helps, but is not a "fix" etc.. you're kinda at a near dead end, even if you rebarrel.

For me and others I knew, we found that as long as you shoot factory rounds the gun was fine. As soon as you started using softer brass like Horandy with 285s on the multiple firings, extraction became an issue. Lapua was better as long as you didn't run over 92gr of H1000 with heaver bullets or stayed with a lighter 250gr. Because we wanted to hit normal velocity windows to shoot ELR, the minute we tried using reformed brass with 285s, 300s or Solids, run on the hot edge, we needed to run around the front of the gun with a cleaning rod and bang out the cases.
Maybe they have fixed it today, but with their extractor system, I am very, very suspect. While the people I was exposed to shooting ELR all had the same type of issue to a varying degree, I am sure guys shooting factory, and light hand-loads like 250's with 92 H1000 are very happy.

FWIW, no disrespect to guys running 92grn with 250s with H1000, but Hogdon's published max load is around 98grns and it isn't uncommon to see people over published n ELR guns with custom actions and barrels.

So you need to ask yourself when 20 round of match grade factory runs over $5 round with reloads well over $100, is saving a couple of thousand over a custom really worth the headache? I'f your just going to want to say "I have a 338" shoot a few rounds and put in your safe, that might be a different story.

Just my 2 cents again no disrespect to anyone.


Great, thanks for the input. I know very little about the Savage extractor and how it compares to competitors. I've heard good things about Savage bolt guns in hunting non-magnum calibers, so figured their .338 LM would also be the same, just scaled up. Will need to do more research.
 
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I have the BA Stealth in 338 Lapua. It is the most accurate 338LM for the money you can get in my opinion. I only use Federal American Eqgle 250gr, and it has been 100% reliable and spot on accurate. I bought a bunch on sale at $49 bucks a box, so less than $2.50 per round. My .308 rounds are a bit over one dollar, so 338LM at $2.50 is not bad.

I ended up with a Nikon Black X1000 24X 2nd focal plane scope, which is almost perfect for this beast. Eveyone I let shoot the rifle have commented on how very light the recoil is, and how impressed they are with the accuracy. The light recoil is due to the excellent muzzle brake. It will pretty much clear out anyone next to you at the range, cause anything near is impacted by the reverse blast. It feels more like a 6.5 than a .338.

I also purchased a Plano field locker hard case, and it works perfectly for this size weapon. It enables me to travel with the rifle with ease, due to the wheels and great handles.

My only complaint is the magazines. Way to few rounds and way too expensive. ( I use the AICS 10 round mags)

That being said, for around $1200 bucks shipped, it makes long range shooting with extreme accuracy available to the average person. Oh, and since its bolt, its also NY compliant!
 
Guy I shoot with at 1000 had one. I didn’t see his target but the rifle seemed to be really nice. Good quality. He said he loves it.
 
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I dont have a stealth, but I have the a 110 fcp in 338 and I cant say much bad about it. It shoots excellent and has extracted everything I have put in it. I shoot mostly 300smk in front of 92gr of h1000 in both lapua and hornady brass with no issues.

I'm not a fan of the accutrigger, but the timney was under $100. The bolt is a bit sloppy as typical savage but it works.
 
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I have the BA Stealth in 338 Lapua. It is the most accurate 338LM for the money you can get in my opinion. I only use Federal American Eqgle 250gr, and it has been 100% reliable and spot on accurate. I bought a bunch on sale at $49 bucks a box, so less than $2.50 per round. My .308 rounds are a bit over one dollar, so 338LM at $2.50 is not bad.

I ended up with a Nikon Black X1000 24X 2nd focal plane scope, which is almost perfect for this beast. Eveyone I let shoot the rifle have commented on how very light the recoil is, and how impressed they are with the accuracy. The light recoil is due to the excellent muzzle brake. It will pretty much clear out anyone next to you at the range, cause anything near is impacted by the reverse blast. It feels more like a 6.5 than a .338.

I also purchased a Plano field locker hard case, and it works perfectly for this size weapon. It enables me to travel with the rifle with ease, due to the wheels and great handles.

My only complaint is the magazines. Way to few rounds and way too expensive. ( I use the AICS 10 round mags)

That being said, for around $1200 bucks shipped, it makes long range shooting with extreme accuracy available to the average person. Oh, and since its bolt, its also NY compliant!



Is there a specific AICS model number you have to use in the Savage 110 338LM? The 5 round mags that came with mine are marked "ACCURATE MAG". Are these made by AI?

Thanks
 
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Thanks mil... I'd hate to drop $100+ apiece for four of these and have them not fit. It would be something else I should sell but never do..
By the way everyone, my Savage 110 338LM, model I can't see because of the scope mount but it's the longer one with the military looking stock (I don't like the overused word "Tactical") and the rather huge muzzle brake does very well for me.
The AccuTrigger seems better than the ones years ago but it at the lightest setting and I'm already looking to lighten it up a bit. My bolt is smooth and tight and only needs a little RemOil or white lithium grease to stay that way. I've shaken the cross hairs off center, they have rotated to the right... Vortex 6-24 illuminated reticle and which ever focal plane means you don't have to constantly compensate. I don't mind if the crosshairs and hash marks get bigger. I'll send this scope in for repair and probably get a NiteForce.
Anyway, we only have a little more than 300 yards where I shoot but I can break 3" clays at 330 yards. I know it's just slightly under 1 MOA but I do it from only a bipod and no rear pod and never use a sled. I'm a hunter and I like to practice somewhat realistically from the ground or sometimes a bench. I use a Gemtech Arrow suppressor but have a ThunderBeast on its way.
Thanks for your advice and your time.
One more good year and I'll probably get an AI setup.
 
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I have had a few custom 338s,1 stock Police 700 along with the 110 Savage Stealth. Other than the barrel twisting loose the first couple rounds, the savage shot very well. I had the Savage as an extra 338.

In general, the aftermarket support and the fact that the extractor systems is poor at best. So other than one place who makes a retro-fit ball, spring bolt head that kinda helps, but is not a "fix" etc.. you're kinda at a near dead end, even if you rebarrel.

For me and others I knew, we found that as long as you shoot factory rounds the gun was fine. As soon as you started using softer brass like Horandy with 285s on the multiple firings, extraction became an issue. Lapua was better as long as you didn't run over 92gr of H1000 with heaver bullets or stayed with a lighter 250gr. Because we wanted to hit normal velocity windows to shoot ELR, the minute we tried using reformed brass with 285s, 300s or Solids, run on the hot edge, we needed to run around the front of the gun with a cleaning rod and bang out the cases.
Maybe they have fixed it today, but with their extractor system, I am very, very suspect. While the people I was exposed to shooting ELR all had the same type of issue to a varying degree, I am sure guys shooting factory, and light hand-loads like 250's with 92 H1000 are very happy.

FWIW, no disrespect to guys running 92grn with 250s with H1000, but Hogdon's published max load is around 98grns and it isn't uncommon to see people over published n ELR guns with custom actions and barrels.

So you need to ask yourself when 20 round of match grade factory runs over $5 round with reloads well over $100, is saving a couple of thousand over a custom really worth the headache? I'f your just going to want to say "I have a 338" shoot a few rounds and put in your safe, that might be a different story.

Just my 2 cents again no disrespect to anyone.

edited to add.. reloads over $1 - not $100 LOL


Nice info, thanks. The guys on this forum seem to be a bit more mature than folks at other forums who trash on young people or newcomers as if they are supposed to innately have 50 years of experience with everything. I'm 64 so I have no excuses for my questions..
I have a 110, the longer one with the tech looking chassis and a muzzle brake the size of a small Pepsi can. I shoot with either just a bipod or just using my arms at a bench and buy lots of S&B and PPU 250 gr 338 LM for around $36/10 in Alaska. Recently moved to my dad's house to help him out and am still working on a new reloading bench. When I built my first one at my house 40+ years ago I did it in two days. Now that I'm old I'm agonizing over every measurement... it got so ridiculous I called my son and had him send the measurements off the first one...
So with the $3.60 a round cheap ammunition I can shoot MOA and less at 330 yards from my arms (man that's a heavy gun) or the bipod when I do my part and remember to breathe. That's enough accuracy for me. Just need to put my two Dillons and a Rock Chucker together and get to work as i have tons of brass from myself and once fired range pickup.
 
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My savage 110 BA 338 LM is 3 years old. When I was shooting factory rounds I had a group of ±8 inches off POA. Reloading my own ammunition, my groups at 1/4 mile are within a 1/2 inch circle. Still shooting good with 240 rounds through it. I am from the school of full cleaning once a year unless circumstances demand sooner.
 
I have had a few custom 338s,1 stock Police 700 along with the 110 Savage Stealth. Other than the barrel twisting loose the first couple rounds, the savage shot very well. I had the Savage as an extra 338.

In general, the aftermarket support and the fact that the extractor systems is poor at best. So other than one place who makes a retro-fit ball, spring bolt head that kinda helps, but is not a "fix" etc.. you're kinda at a near dead end, even if you rebarrel.

For me and others I knew, we found that as long as you shoot factory rounds the gun was fine. As soon as you started using softer brass like Horandy with 285s on the multiple firings, extraction became an issue. Lapua was better as long as you didn't run over 92gr of H1000 with heaver bullets or stayed with a lighter 250gr. Because we wanted to hit normal velocity windows to shoot ELR, the minute we tried using reformed brass with 285s, 300s or Solids, run on the hot edge, we needed to run around the front of the gun with a cleaning rod and bang out the cases.
Maybe they have fixed it today, but with their extractor system, I am very, very suspect. While the people I was exposed to shooting ELR all had the same type of issue to a varying degree, I am sure guys shooting factory, and light hand-loads like 250's with 92 H1000 are very happy.

FWIW, no disrespect to guys running 92grn with 250s with H1000, but Hogdon's published max load is around 98grns and it isn't uncommon to see people over published n ELR guns with custom actions and barrels.

So you need to ask yourself when 20 round of match grade factory runs over $5 round with reloads well over $100, is saving a couple of thousand over a custom really worth the headache? I'f your just going to want to say "I have a 338" shoot a few rounds and put in your safe, that might be a different story.

Just my 2 cents again no disrespect to anyone.

edited to add.. reloads over $1 - not $100 LOL
Good words. My reloads are usually not over pressured. And yes I did, and stopped quickly. They were also on the third firing without annealing or sizing the OAL of the brass. I needed to tap a couple out, I stopped, set the rounds aside and took them apart when I got home. Only time I had a problem.
 
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I have a 110BA stealth, I have had zero problems with it.
It is very accurate. Lapua brass, federal gold primers, 250 scenars, 285 eld, 300 Berger's and h1000.
Maybe 100 rds down it now all single fed.
 
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My savage 110 BA 338 LM is 3 years old. When I was shooting factory rounds I had a group of ±8 inches off POA. Reloading my own ammunition, my groups at 1/4 mile are within a 1/2 inch circle. Still shooting good with 240 rounds through it. I am from the school of full cleaning once a year unless circumstances demand sooner.
I reload 250 g, h1000 or imr2828. I had the brass stick once, most definitely my fault. I was practicing in the desert. I usually keep my ammo in the shade but I left it on the table while walking to target and back, 1/2 mile round trip. Overpressure, dropped a brass rod, (purchased later), and it fell out.
I do not shoot competitively, just against myself. Inexpensive, shoots beyond my capabilities but forcing me to be better. Going to be reaching out to 1/2 & 3/4 mile with 300g bullets this year. Next 338 LM will be a custom built. I would not discourage anybody from this rifle using my experiences.
It is a bit heavy but it is not my deer or squirrel rifle.
 
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I know this thread is old, and yes this is my first post.
I bought a Savage Stealth Evolutin in 338 Lapua Mag last year, I literally tried every powder combination as I wanted to use 300 grain projectiles, a group of us shoot ELD, I had been shooting 300 WIN MAG and wanted to try something else.
It took 1 year, of stuck bolts, and terrible accuracy but finally I found what I wanted.
I use Lapua brass and fire form it, I full length form it but only bump the shoulder back .001-.003 I use 95.5 Grains of VV N570 with Berger OTM 300 grain tips.
Last Sunday in perfect conditions I put 6 out of 6 in a 5 inch square at 1438 yards, no stuck brass, no over pressure signs. And the gun shoots under .300 at 100 yards.

2845 FPS out of my chronograph , and that’s only a 24 inch barrel.
I am .005 into the lands and single feeding as I am past the clip capacity.

please take the load data with a grain of salt, start low and work up.

I do hope this post helps someone, I have not heard anyone using these components that is what works great for me I thought I would share it.....

good luck
 
I know this thread is old, and yes this is my first post.
I bought a Savage Stealth Evolutin in 338 Lapua Mag last year, I literally tried every powder combination as I wanted to use 300 grain projectiles, a group of us shoot ELD, I had been shooting 300 WIN MAG and wanted to try something else.
It took 1 year, of stuck bolts, and terrible accuracy but finally I found what I wanted.
I use Lapua brass and fire form it, I full length form it but only bump the shoulder back .001-.003 I use 95.5 Grains of VV N570 with Berger OTM 300 grain tips.
Last Sunday in perfect conditions I put 6 out of 6 in a 5 inch square at 1438 yards, no stuck brass, no over pressure signs. And the gun shoots under .300 at 100 yards.

2845 FPS out of my chronograph , and that’s only a 24 inch barrel.
I am .005 into the lands and single feeding as I am past the clip capacity.

please take the load data with a grain of salt, start low and work up.

I do hope this post helps someone, I have not heard anyone using these components that is what works great for me I thought I would share it.....

good luck
I have the 110 BA Stealth variant, not the first one with the big ass grip. I was forwars thinking, and picked up 1000 rounds of American Eagle 250gr ammo. The Stealth comes with an awesome brake that makes it feel more like my 308. My 30-06 kicks much harder.

My daughter loves shooting it, and it shoots sub moa at 100 with that factory ammo. Best deal around. My issue is I live in Marxist NY, so there are no close ranges to let it stretch its legs.

Let me know if you need ammo, as I still have about 750 rounds left, most in factory box, and about 3-400 in a 50 cal can.
 
I have a 110BA stealth which has only had about a box of ammo through it, purchased this year. Plan to run hornady ELDX 270gr projectiles as a single load for hunting and steel at distance, hoping to buy a little patch of land soon. I have purchased 100 hornady cases on top of the factory ammunition. Will be using AR2225 (sold as retumbo in the US) powder and federal magnum match primers.

It sounds like some are using way overpressure loads of too fast powder instead of the slower stuff. Will be interested to see how I go. If I can get finance approved and make an offer on the property I want I should be able to set up a 1000m and one mile shot.

I think some of you have had your politics skewed by the Murdock media, real leftists want an armed working class, it is centre right neoliberals that want to take everyone's guns. It's hilarious you suggest a state with restrictions is Marxist, lets have a closer look at his opinion:

marx_gun_control.jpg
 
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