Rifle Scopes F-Class Glass???

usmcsniperone

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I shot my first F-class match last sat.{reduced} only 200yrds. My questions for you pro F-class shooters are these: What power scope is normally used for the real matches out to 1000 yrds and what is the best retical for shooting those pesky little bulls? I seen everything at the match from hunting scopes to some fine tactical glass. Should I get a fixed power or variable?
I'm looking to upgrade and shoot some of these matches and need some input before I drop the cash on some scope that isn't what I really need.
Thanks!
 

Hoser

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Re: F-Class Glass???

NF 12-42 or a 8-32. NXS or BR, doesent matter other than 1/4 vs 1/8 clicks.
 

STP

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Re: F-Class Glass???

usmcsniperone,

That March is priced like the Schmidt Bender PM series you peeked thru on Saturday.

grin.gif
 

usmcsniperone

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Re: F-Class Glass???

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: STP</div><div class="ubbcode-body">usmcsniperone,

That March is priced like the Schmidt Bender PM series you peeked thru on Saturday.

grin.gif


</div></div>

That was one clear scope indeed! I looked through JDAjr's also and that was awesome! I don't remember what his was though. I do know you could see the legs on the flies on the targets at 200yrds!!!
 

Greg Langelius *

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Re: F-Class Glass???

Tom;

After a couple of years worth of 1Kyd F Class down in Bodines, some tidbits about optics have emerged.

Mirage will dictate the upper limit of useful magnification. Having more available than you need (<span style="font-style: italic">at the moment</span>) is not a disadvantage. As distances decrease the amount of magnification you can utilize practically will get higher. It is highly unlikely that optical conditions will be so bad that you need to go all the way down to the minimum magnification available from a decent variable. The higher magnification you can use, the better you can resolve your sight picture. This is a primary factor in F Class success.

No amount of magnification you can actually put on your rifle will allow you to effectively spot bullet holes beyond 200-300yd.

Objective diameter works against you, requiring a higher head position, and affecting the height of the reticle above the bore as the diameter grows, and this has a significant bearing on comeups. It is highly unlikely that you will be shooting F Class under lighting conditions that justify using an objective much above 40mm in diameter.

Reticle type is less important than target resolution. I have used medium and fine duplex reticles and never felt the need for a MilDot in F Class. Sometimes, line chatter will divulge wind holdoffs, and the MilDot crew likes to chat up the number of mils, but if you simply allow 3 1/2MOA per mil, approximately, for such chatter, you don't need the mil unless you're shooting an unknown size target art an unknown distance, neither of which conditions occurs in F Class.

My experience tells me that a scope of moderate optical quality, 1" tube, 40-42mm objective, and in the 6-24X variable magnification range, will be clearly adequate for F Class shooting at all the required F Class distances. I use 24x at 200yd nearly always, and mirage has seldom limited my upper mags below 18X at 1Kyd. My preferred scope, believe me or not, is an $80 Tasco VAR624X42M MilDot varmint/target scope that has these attributes. I keep waiting for it to go tits up; and after going on three years, I'm still waiting. When it does, I have three more spares waiting in the wings.

Greg
 

usmcsniperone

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Re: F-Class Glass???

Greg, Good post! I'm not going with MD retical unless its got fine cross hairs like that S&B had. I'm trying to decide on either fine cross hair, 1/8 dot, dot & fine, etc. I know that I have a better sight picture with that round dot against a round bull compared to any cross hair configuration. Thats why they use appeture{SP} sights on those {space guns} in highpower. Your eye can focus on it more easily I believe.
 

STP

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Re: F-Class Glass???

You can do a "post match" peek after our next FV 200yd match with the consent of their owners. Shoot, I had 5 guns with me last Saturday. It never occured to me to have you look thru them.

Next match, we will do so....
 

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Re: F-Class Glass???

Greg,

Interesting comments, we'll agree to disagree on a few
wink.gif
i.e. 56mm vs 40mm objective = nom 1/4" difference in head height, you have an adjustable cheak piece and if this changes your come up at 1000 from say 34 to 35 does it matter? Greg you have better eyes than me if your 40mm Tasco is resolving targets to the same degree as a 56mm NF. But this discussion could go no forever - each to his own is the best bet I feel?


S-one. If you are serious about F class then 1/8 clicks are probably better as the V bull is 5" diameter. At 1000 yards one click on a 1/4 adjust is 1/2 the v bull and the top competitons are won on V bulls - if you look at the scores, the top shooter shot 55% V bulls over 10 stages over several days (150+ rounds).

I listed Gary's scope as what will win in all sorts of conditions (as one of the American team noted thay had all 4 seasons during the F Class world championships) If you use his set up a benchmark then the only factor is your ability.

Brgds English
 

Greg Langelius *

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Re: F-Class Glass???

You will have an even better sight picture if you use the 'offset POA' method.

Instead of putting overlaying the reticle wire intersection into a wide mass of at the center of the bull, try kissing the left edge and bottom edge of the bull with the crosswires. Overlaying center allows the intersection to 'swim' in the bull, degrading the amount resolution/correlation between reticle and aimpoint. By kissing the edge, a more definite and more closely repeatable resolution is achieved. Yes, the crosspoint of the reticle wire is outside the bull, but if you offset the reticle to shift the POI back to the bull's center, you're back inside the ballpark, and you have the added advantage that you are less likely to shoot out your aimpoint reference.

This is an old fashioned BR shooter's technique.

English, to each their own. I speak of 'minimums and adequates', and yes, we could easily agree that the 56MM objective provides a superior image, and that good mounts and cheekrests will absolve any additional cheek height issues. I can even accept the bore/optical axis digressions as non-critical. But my point is that while preferable, such niceties are not absolutely necessary.

While my F Class performance is anything but world shaking, I am reasonably confident that my deficiencies are due to skill, rather than optics.

Greg
 

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Re: F-Class Glass???

I will echo Greg and what he said and add that for a dedicated F-class rifle, if you want to drop several thousand dollars on a scope, by all means go for it. It won't make you a better shooter, but you will feel good trying.

An F-class scope has completely different requirements from a hunting or tactical scope. Greg went through some of them, let me add a few more; there is no need for extensive FOV, color rendition and fidelity and twilight factor and so on. Greg already discussed the lack of need for ranging, I will add that the simplest reticle is best.

What counts for me is quality high magnification and dependable target knobs with assured repeatbility. I have been using a Weaver T-36X40 for a few years now, with target dot reticle and just bought another one for my .308 F-T/R rifle. Yes, it's fixed power, less to mess up and better quality optics for the same dollars as a comparable variable. Why buy a 6-24 when you're going to leave it on 24X all the time anyway?
 

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Re: F-Class Glass???

Because I use the rifle for other things as well, including varmint shooting, and because I have decided to standardize on a single affordable scope design. My three 'hot spares' are doing service on a lightweight .30-'06 hunter, and two .22LR practice rifles. Their ability to focus down to 15yd makes them particularly versatile. My scopes are only valuable to me if I have an actual use for them.

Greg
 

Sig685

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Re: F-Class Glass???

I totally understand, and that is exactly why I qualified my post above using the words "dedicated F-class rifle".

I would hate to lug either one around further than from the back of my SUV to the firing line and they are F-T/R rifles.
 

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Re: F-Class Glass???

Sig685

I'm probably going to appear a real PIA but can I make a point re. FOV. I've always liked variables as I can adjust, if necessary, the FOV to see the targets either side of mine without moving the rifle. If I percieve a wind change and I'm shooting with other reasonably consistant shots, being able to see their last shots on the targets either side of you might confirm your call on the wind?

Just a thought!

English
 

usmcsniperone

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Re: F-Class Glass???

I don't think I'll be laying down thousands of dollars for a premium optic at this point in the game. If and when the time comes to step up to a full time effort I will. I will probably go with a nikon monarch or the loopy in the 6-24 power range so I can also use it for varmints if I want and it won't break the bank while still giving good clarity and repeatability. Burris is also in the running as I have 2 of those and really like them.
Still undecided on the retical, but I'm leaning towards the fine crosshair and 1/8 dot unless someone convinces me otherwise.
 

bear458

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Re: F-Class Glass???

Current standard is the Nightforce 12x42BR I like the CH2 reticule or the NP-R2. .308 class rifles need a 30 minute rail and open class a 20 min rail. 1/8 minute adjustments are very helpful, hence the BR over the NSX, and less spendy too boot.
If you pick something else, make sure it has enough travel in the turrets for the selected ballistics
 

drmarc

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Re: F-Class Glass???

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: English</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Sig685

I'm probably going to appear a real PIA but can I make a point re. FOV. I've always liked variables as I can adjust, if necessary, the FOV to see the targets either side of mine without moving the rifle. If I percieve a wind change and I'm shooting with other reasonably consistant shots, being able to see their last shots on the targets either side of you might confirm your call on the wind?

Just a thought!

English </div></div>


VERY good point English!
 

Sig685

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Re: F-Class Glass???

English, you are not a PIA; this is a forum for information and debate and that's exactly what we are doing. Once the sighters are away, I rarely if ever change the adjustments on my scope; I will use the high magnification to place the target dot where I need to hold off on the target itself. If I don't touch the knobs during a string, you can be assured I would never consider playing with the zoom to look at other targets.

At 36X, the 300 yard target is the only one I see in my scope, the others hold no interest for me. At 500/600 I can see about half of the target on either side of mine, by just nudging the rifle, I can see the whole target if it's important. I'd rather do that than to break position to fiddle with the zoom.

At 800/900/1000 yards I see the targets on either side and about half of the next target beyond those. Again, a small jiggle (technical term) will show me all I want. The less I mess with the scope, the better.


usmcsniperone, I looked at the Monarch and I was going to get the 8-32X50 but they did not have it with a fine reticle, only the Nikoplex. I contacted Nikon and they said the demand for fine crosshairs with dot in that scope was non-existent. I told them to put mne down as one who wanted one. The 6-24 does have one and a friend of mine has bought one; it is one phenomenal scope, especially for the price. Beware of the lack of adjustments, you may want to look at a canted rail, 20MOA.

I got my last Weaver T-36 for $385 delivered.
 

asbestosglove

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Re: F-Class Glass???

Check out the Weaver 6-24. Good quality at around $300. When I first started to get serious about F-Class around 1998-99 that was what was being touted in my area (NC). Inexpensive but still high quality. I use a 8-25 Leupy and an 8-32 NF currently, but turn both to around 20-22 due to mirage. This scope will also allow the multi-purpose role and the FOV adjustment mentioned above. I have the T-36's as well, and am a cheerleader for them, but in the Southeast, have too much mirage for their use at 1K.

AG in NC
 

wildcats

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Re: F-Class Glass???

i would recomend you spend the extra $$ and go with one of the
NF NXS 12-42 or their benchrest 12-42 if you are planning to shoot out to 1K.i would lean more toward the Benchrest series due to 1/8 min adjustments.you can always add a 20-30 min. base for more elevation adjustment.
 

Sig685

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Re: F-Class Glass???

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: drmarc</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Sig685, you ever have any mirage issues using the fixed 36x ? </div></div>

I shoot at 1000 yards, year round in south Texas, every month. When the mirage runs, the mirage runs for everybody. I've been using the T-36 for 2 years now, and I do not remember a time when I wished for less magnification due to mirage or any other factor. For me, 30something X is the bare minimum. But I'm old(er) and my eyes are not what they used to be. F-T/R is difficult enough as it is, I want to take any advantage I can get. So for those who espouse less magnification, by all means those are the scopes I want to see, on my competitors' rifles. :)
 

STP

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Re: F-Class Glass???

usmcsniperone,

I fully agree with bear458 in regards to the need for 1/8 min. adjustments. A 20MOA base is something that can wait for now should you select a 1 inch diameter tube scope. For our club matches with glass with the 1/8 min. dials, you can adjust in actual 1/4 minute increments at 200yds to gain a few more "V`s" on our target.

With this arrangement in the hayfields you can ask Howard "you want me to hit that woodchuck in the eye, or the ear?"
wink.gif
 

Mark Walker

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Re: F-Class Glass???

Here is a picture taken of the rifle rack at the last 1k F-Class match here at Bayou rifles. I think you can see what is the dominate choice in glass for 1k F, at least in Open class...

bayou1krack.jpg
 

usmcsniperone

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Re: F-Class Glass???

Thanks everyone! I'm soaking up all the information provided.It all comes down to this: How involved in this sport do I want to get? That in itself will dictate how much I want to spend on a scope or rifle or barrel. Also a main factor is time....a time to load, a time to practice. The time spent away from home going all around the country to matches and on and on. I did all that shooting highpower for several years in three different states not counting the nationals at perry. It came down to full time devotion to shooting or to family. Well, The family took top place and the shooting is now part time. I plan to shoot as many local shoots as I can and hope for the time to get to a bigger match when possible. Only have 2 more years and my last one is off to college and things might ease up after that. At least one can hope!
Thanks again for all the input!
 

usmcsniperone

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Re: F-Class Glass???

Just ordered a Nikon Monarch 6-24X50mm side focus with sunshade! I went with the fine crosshair and dot retical. Will be in next monday. Also ordered a shorter bipod as I found out mine was to tall at the odessa match and I had to use muscle to elevate the butt to see.

Running out of excuses fast !!
wink.gif
 

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Re: F-Class Glass???

Tom;

I've been thinking about this, and I figure I can afford to loan out one of my Tascos to you for a coupla months for your evaluation. It's a hard choice, as all the guns they are on have some purpose in my life, but I think your needs are such that I can get by loaning one out for awhile. It will be at the next match. I just need it back in time for deer season.

This way, you can get some idea of what's available at my end of the cost spectrum, and whether or not it's good enough for your actual, real needs. I know it is for mine. Forget the grueling workouts, their relationship to F Class is tenuous at best; just use it for what's actually needed for F Class. If it works for you, saving several hundred bucks can go a long way toward ammo costs.

Greg
 

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Re: F-Class Glass???

I run a NXS 8-32x56 on my F rifle and the only thing I dont like about it is the 1/4 clicks. Even at 600yd every click is 1.5".

If I were to buy another scope for F-class shooting, I would definately go with 1/8 clicks

Jerid
 

usmcsniperone

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Re: F-Class Glass???

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Greg Langelius *</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Tom;

I've been thinking about this, and I figure I can afford to loan out one of my Tascos to you for a coupla months for your evaluation. It's a hard choice, as all the guns they are on have some purpose in my life, but I think your needs are such that I can get by loaning one out for awhile. It will be at the next match. I just need it back in time for deer season.

This way, you can get some idea of what's available at my end of the cost spectrum, and whether or not it's good enough for your actual, real needs. I know it is for mine. Forget the grueling workouts, their relationship to F Class is tenuous at best; just use it for what's actually needed for F Class. If it works for you, saving several hundred bucks can go a long way toward ammo costs.

Greg</div></div>

Greg, No offence, but I have a borrowed 20 power fixed tasco target on my shooter now and that thing isn't worth the paint on it. I took a 4.5-14 nikon off it just because the tasco had the target dot in it. I have a 10-40X50 tasco target that is just as bad as the straight 20 fixed. They both look like your looking through LA Smog compared to just about anything else out there. Thank you for the offer!
 

R-TAC

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Re: F-Class Glass???

Couple of points already made, but I would reiterate,

Reticle – I use a Nightforce NP-R1 or NP-R2 reticle. As pointed out earlier, the outlying vertical and horizontal marks can be used to “box” or “bracket” one of the scoring rings, or even the outside of the target. IMHO, this helps to make sure you are square on the target and not canted, and it helps you to get a more consistent aiming point. A single point or dot in the center of the reticle can “mix/fade/swim” in the black center scoring rings. The black outer marks in the reticle stand out very clearly against the white outer portions of the target. I use the outer marks to “square and center”, and then confirm the center aiming point in the reticle with the x ring. I have found with newer / less experienced F-Class shooters this can help. Obviously the more experienced shooters are doing well with a simple dot or fine reticle, however I think that also comes along with repeated use and adjustment to that sight picture.

Magnification – Simple for me. If you need it, but don’t have it, you can’t dial it up. If you do have it, but don’t need it, you can always dial it down. Based on a shooters eyesight, some will do much better with the higher magnification, comes down to a personal need based on the shooter. Based on Mirage, there will be times when you will need to adjust your magnification accordingly. I have seen Mirage bad enough that you needed to dial down to 15x-20x, versus the 30x-40x range where you would normally shoot at. IMHO, there is a reason why the majority of the F-Class Shooters run an adjustable 30x-40x scope. Greater magnification allows you a more precise sight picture. Adjustable magnification allows you to adjust for the conditions.

Objective Size – IMHO, bigger is better. I have been on a firing line at 08:00 AM on a very cloudy/overcast day, and lighting was definitely an issue. Per above, if you have the larger objective, you can take full advantage of the available light. If you have a smaller objective, you are stuck working with what you have.

MOA Adjustments – without a doubt at 1,000 yards, being able to adjust 1.25” with 1/8 MOA adjustments, versus 2.5” with 1/4 MOA adjustments can make a difference when it comes to shooting Xs (or Vs) versus just shooting a 10.

I am not always a real big fan of the “Herd” or “Follow me while I jump of this bridge mentality”, but if the majority of winning F-Class Shooters are using a variable power Nightforce NXS or BR in the 30x-40x range with a 56mm objective, then there is probably some “method to the madness”.

I can also appreciate the “I don’t have an unlimited bank account” issue, so I can also appreciate shooters who are looking for a more “economical” alternative. That being the case, I would say the above criteria still apply. Then it just comes to down to which scope can provide those, with the best quality glass and most repeatable adjustments that your budget will allow.

Best of Luck,
Capt Richardson
 

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Re: F-Class Glass???

Tom;

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Greg, No offence, but I have a borrowed 20 power fixed tasco target on my shooter now and that thing isn't worth the paint on it. I took a 4.5-14 nikon off it just because the tasco had the target dot in it. I have a 10-40X50 tasco target that is just as bad as the straight 20 fixed. They both look like your looking through LA Smog compared to just about anything else out there. Thank you for the offer!
</div></div>

Roger that, no harm no foul. I'll leave it mounted, but the offer stands in case you get the hankering.

Greg
 

Sig685

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Re: F-Class Glass???

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: usmcsniperone</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Just ordered a Nikon Monarch 6-24X50mm side focus with sunshade! I went with the fine crosshair and dot retical. Will be in next monday. Also ordered a shorter bipod as I found out mine was to tall at the odessa match and I had to use muscle to elevate the butt to see.

Running out of excuses fast !!
wink.gif
</div></div>

I look forward to your report on this scope. The one I looked through and tried was very nice.

Now, which bipod did you get and why?
 

usmcsniperone

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Re: F-Class Glass???

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sig685</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

I look forward to your report on this scope. The one I looked through and tried was very nice.

Now, which bipod did you get and why?</div></div>

I ordered the harris 6-9 in. model as I have the 9-13 and it was just about 1in. to high for me. I use a versa-pod for varmint hunting as most of my shots are sitting unless its over 350 or so then I'll go prone. At the match last weekend I was having to use my off hand on top of my rear bag to get the right elevation and that was putting muscles to work which put the pulse right on the gun.
Also after 4 ruptured discs and three back surgeries the less I arch the better.
 

Sig685

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Re: F-Class Glass???

In my estimation the Harris bipod is about the worst for F-class competition, just one notch above a brick. You should instead look at something better like the Versapod 6-9 with friction lock or the Sinclair or anything but the Harris.
 

wolfman

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Re: F-Class Glass???

I just got back from the FCWC's in England and the biggest impression I had, (besides that the Brits sure know how to shoot) was just how dominating the Nightforce grip is F Class. I've been shooting NF BR's for the last 6 years- first a 5.5-22, and now a 12-42, and have always liked the glass, and magnification range. This is especially true now that the target has shrunk. As for 1/8 vs 1/4 adjustments, the new NXS that Nightforce built for the US F/TR team is where it's at, IMHO. 1/8 elevation, and 1/4 windage. Points get lost quickly if a shooter fails to center the group vertically, but I challenge anybody to make 1/8 wind calls. On top of that 1/8 clicks make for LOTS of cranking when you are making 3-4 minute changes between shots. Reticles seem to be a very personal choice. I'm shooting w/ a NP-R2, and I really like it. Lots of others are shooting 2DD or Ch-2. The good news is a used scope form Leupold, NF, is not much of a risk. Buy one, try it, and then decide if it's what you really want or not.
 

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    Re: F-Class Glass???

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sig685</div><div class="ubbcode-body">In my estimation the Harris bipod is about the worst for F-class competition, just one notch above a brick. You should instead look at something better like the Versapod 6-9 with friction lock or the Sinclair or anything but the Harris. </div></div>

    This is ridiculous. I understand that the push on this site has long been to sturdier bipods, but military snipers have been using Harris bipods for years and they work just fine.

    I won my first and only F-class match with a Harris. How much better would I have performed with a $200+ bipod?
     

    cybersniper

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    Re: F-Class Glass and more???

    I just returned from the World Championships at Bisley UK.
    Before getting there I was asking myself the same question ...not now.
    I used my USO SN3 5-25 with tactical RDP-MOA reticle. I peeked though many scopes there, also though the US team Nightforces and nothing comes close to my USO.
    BUT
    There still a small issue with the reticles issued by most manufacturers. In my case USO does not offer a reticle designed for FT/R. The RDP-MOA is a nice tactical reticle and works fine for FT/R, BUT, The center crosshair with a fine dot in the middle, would help "piercing" the V-bull. That would be even better, FOR ME.
    When humidity, rain and mirage hits the dot help you a lot piercing the center ring. On those British conditions the dot would help a lot.

    I could manage with my reticle but i felt that it was easier with a center dot. The perfect reticle would be a center crosshair a little thicker that leupolds with a dot ( just like Leupolds) and with 1 MOA lines for windage correction with small half MOA lines in middle.
    SIMILAR to my reticle but with finer center lines.
    BUT regarding optical clarity and performance ...GO USO.

    SO why do most shooters use other brands. I am sure that marketing, aggressive pricing and special prices for competitors are the issue here. I come from the military sniping world, and use USO for special proyects. We have M4 (4,5-14X) and S&B PMII(4-16 and 5-25), then my preference goes to the scopes I like most from the ones I already have in stock. The 14X is underpowered and the S&B and USO are all 1/10 MIL clicks so it all ended up in the optical clarity and ruggedness, plus the RDP that was way better than a S&B P4 .

    If I had to buy a new scope I would ask for the features I want and after the manufacturers respond, and quote a price, decide which one to buy. The optical clarity is a must and the reticle is important, BUT the 1/8 MOA clicks are important too and none of the scopes I had at hand had them. USO can make their SN3 with any clicks you need, Nighforce and leupolds too, but S&B cant ( to my knowledge). And yes the USO weight can be an issue, but not for me now as I have plenty weight margin. For me, and if price is not an issue, USO rules.
    Eduardo
     

    cybersniper

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    Apr 5, 2006
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    www.cybersniper.com
    Re: F-Class Glass???

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Downzero</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sig685</div><div class="ubbcode-body">In my estimation the Harris bipod is about the worst for F-class competition, just one notch above a brick. You should instead look at something better like the Versapod 6-9 with friction lock or the Sinclair or anything but the Harris. </div></div>

    This is ridiculous. I understand that the push on this site has long been to sturdier bipods, but military snipers have been using Harris bipods for years and they work just fine.

    I won my first and only F-class match with a Harris. How much better would I have performed with a $200+ bipod? </div></div>

    Fully agree with you, you can win with a Versapod or a Harris. I bought a Sinclair a few days prior to Bisley comp and if was not the best to do. It does not have a positive stop and ref marks on the legs and one fell down on the middle of the string.... big screwup.
    BUT
    It is very stable and the rifle recoils much better than with smaller bipods.
    Ed
     

    Sig685

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    Dec 3, 2006
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    The Lone Star State
    Re: F-Class Glass???

    I've been shooting with a Sinclair for over a year now. By the third competition, I had adjusted to it coming from a Versa pod (which was head and shoulders above a Harris.)

    I added reference lines on the legs and I know how to make sure it won't drop in the middle of a string. You just need to get used to it.

    For F class, that bipod is much better than the Versapod, which in turn is much better than the Harris. My opinion, of course.
     

    TonyTRG

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    Jan 2, 2007
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    Re: F-Class Glass???

    I agree with R Tac on the idea of using the NP R1 on the NXS to 'box' the target . Last time I shot at 1000 to 1200 at Bisley the rain and mist was sometimes so bad that using the hash marks to box the black was more useful than trying to put the cross hairs in the middle of it ( and I think gives a more consistant aiming mark than using the edge of the aiming diagram - ref Greg).
     

    philthygeezer

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    Mar 21, 2010
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    Re: F-Class Glass???

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mark Walker</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Here is a picture taken of the rifle rack at the last 1k F-Class match here at Bayou rifles. I think you can see what is the dominate choice in glass for 1k F, at least in Open class...

    bayou1krack.jpg
    </div></div>

    What scopes are these? I don't recognize them.
     

    Mark Walker

    The Long Shots
    Full Member
    Minuteman
    Jan 28, 2006
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    Houston, TX
    Re: F-Class Glass???

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: philthygeezer</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mark Walker</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Here is a picture taken of the rifle rack at the last 1k F-Class match here at Bayou rifles. I think you can see what is the dominate choice in glass for 1k F, at least in Open class...

    bayou1krack.jpg
    </div></div>

    What scopes are these? I don't recognize them. </div></div>

    7 out of the 8 are Nightforce BR 12-42s. The other is a Premier.
     

    Jedi

    Team AndiCapp
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    Minuteman
    Dec 10, 2003
    137
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    Mountains
    Re: F-Class Glass???

    I currently shoot 12-42NF br

    most consider this the defacto standard for F class

    However
    I also have a great fondness for sightron scopes, amazing value for money, glass IMO as GOOD as NF

    The Just released 10-50 would be perfect
    thou not just me that has a high opinion of these scopes

    So if was buying now Sightron SIII 8-32 or 10-50
     

    matchking

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    Mar 7, 2006
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    louisiana
    Re: F-Class Glass???

    When I shoot a F-class match, I run a Premier-boosted 32x Mark 4 and never feel handicapped. I'd run it over a NF anyday; too bad new ones can't be purchased any longer.