Factory Seconds

Depends on your use. Serious Match shooter? No. I haven't found anything wrong with mine, but why take a chance for match ammo.

General use, ringing steel etc? yes. And Powder Valley has 175 grainers on their specials page for 116 bucks for 500. Again, no problems IME.
 
I believe the ones from powdervalley are actually 175 SMK. I found them to be just as accurate but I am just a casual shooter. They shoot easily under 1/2 moa if you do your part.

My experience exactly. I can't tell the difference in the 2nds and top of the line, but "casual shooter" fits me. A real pro might be able to tell a difference.
 
SMK and Nosler are as good as the firsts. I ordered a few hundred of the Grafs 168 seconds and the only difference was a little oxidation on the bullets. They were not nasty, just looks like they were stored open to the air for a while. Bullet to bullet variance was just as good as off the shelf SMK's.
 
I have a few hundred of the graf's seconds in 175. Basically 175 SMKs, some with dinged tips, and a little variation on weights. At 100 and 200 yards the target can't tell. Definitely worth shooting, and not just because I can't seem to find SMKs around here.

Shoot em up!
 
Savage11022335grVmax13grBlueDot100yardsfirstgroupfromnewbarrel59-18-2013.jpg
5 shots at 100 yards with blem Vmax .224" 33 gr that cost 7.7 cents each, I bought ~ 3,000
Lothar Walther barrel chambered 223
257 Roberts Ackley Impoved 100 gr Hndy 100 yards  42 gr 4895 2007-1-31.jpg
4 shots @100yards 257 100 gr HNDY SP blem 4.3 cents each, I bought ~ 1000
Lothar Walther barrel chambered 257 Roberts Ackley Improved
 
If you want to check the specs on your seconds, more than weigh and OD, to see how close they are take a vernier and measure your boat tail length, measure from the junction line to the base. Take a small piece of piano wire and forceps and measure your cavity depth, stick the wire into the bullet until it makes contact with the core and but the forceps up to the meplat and clamp the wire, measure with a vernier. Check the radius from boat tail to base, keep like radii together for best results. Also check base to ogive length, there should never be more than .010 variation in a lot for green box. I don't have measurements for what boat tail length or cavity depth should be anymore (I used to work at Sierra) but if anybody is interested I can probably get them. One of the things I noticed working there, when checking ballistics and accuracy on bullets, aside from weight being off, is cavity depth. For whatever it's worth
 
If you want to check the specs on your seconds, more than weigh and OD, to see how close they are take a vernier and measure your boat tail length, measure from the junction line to the base. Take a small piece of piano wire and forceps and measure your cavity depth, stick the wire into the bullet until it makes contact with the core and but the forceps up to the meplat and clamp the wire, measure with a vernier. Check the radius from boat tail to base, keep like radii together for best results. Also check base to ogive length, there should never be more than .010 variation in a lot for green box. I don't have measurements for what boat tail length or cavity depth should be anymore (I used to work at Sierra) but if anybody is interested I can probably get them. One of the things I noticed working there, when checking ballistics and accuracy on bullets, aside from weight being off, is cavity depth. For whatever it's worth
Thanks for the inside info!
 
I've got a few thousand of the Midway blems which are Hornady seconds in 6mm 105 bthp and 6.5mm 140 AMax. Have not seen any difference between them and Hornady box bullets.


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