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Favorite Rimfire Upgrade/Mod?

kingtut67

Private
Minuteman
Feb 16, 2017
7
0
Michigan
The hide doesnt have a lot of rimfire traction over here. Personally I love shooting rimfire. Which leads me to:

What has your favorite rimfire upgrade been. Choices may be tuning or drop in parts.

I cant decide if mine is the trigger, barrel, stock/chassis, firing pin tune or the scope

It can be for whatever reason: accuracy, precision, fit, function, aesthetics, cost, or any reason.
 
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It kind of depends on your starting point. But if your are starting with a good base rifle that has accuracy potential then the upgrade is very easy: ammo
 
Do them all, one at a time. Pillar, bed, optics, trigger, barrel, stock, ammunition and barrel shimming.
Find the most consistent ammo first, then make one change at a time and test the results.
When you achieve the target results you wanted, stop. I never stopped.

What started like this:

ka6noDvtoWPDlfQ9Ki-N7lhDY2c6FqCJlsRjyHlGgu_QcpCIVrJumSW8Lt7gJ-5gjVcwY0GdfVXmEQ=w459-h220



Ended up with this...

[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/rNSyUQeTRfUFS-veAT3bY3osze22vdxWsGYogucNtEtoeyNW7y4jp7jGetET-VN8on3gjFK1tUEl9g=w468-h220"}[/IMG2]
 
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My 1st upgrade is always a drop in trigger for my rimfires. If accurate, then start shooting. If you need more, then look at bedding the stock if possible. If not, replace the stock and barrel if cost allows.
 
Do them all, one at a time. Pillar, bed, optics, trigger, barrel, stock, ammunition and barrel shimming.
Find the most consistent ammo first, then make one change at a time and test the results.
When you achieve the target results you wanted, stop. I never stopped.

What started like this:

ka6noDvtoWPDlfQ9Ki-N7lhDY2c6FqCJlsRjyHlGgu_QcpCIVrJumSW8Lt7gJ-5gjVcwY0GdfVXmEQ=w459-h220



Ended up with this...

[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/rNSyUQeTRfUFS-veAT3bY3osze22vdxWsGYogucNtEtoeyNW7y4jp7jGetET-VN8on3gjFK1tUEl9g=w468-h220"}[/IMG2]


Yeah, but what one is your FAVORITE? Can you pick just one?

I dont think I can pick my FAVORITE but I really liked the barrel upgrade followed with a trigger upgrade.
 
I have no favorite. Once you start chasing rimfire accuracy, you end up trying everything.
I can comment on which modifications produced the most improvement.

#1 Ammunition, find quality ammunition that produces consistent results.
Unlike most who claim "find the brand your rifle likes"
my response is test the best you can afford over a chronograph.
Then buy the batch that produces the smallest extreme spread in muzzle velocities.
Best results/brand will change, depending on the quality of that days production on the assembly line.

#2 Pillar and bed receiver, eliminated sloppy fit to stock.
By preventing any receiver movement stopped most of the odd strays.

#3 Barrel replacement. Hammer forged mass produced barrels are gambles.
Never know if you'll end up with a Monday morning barrel, a Friday afternoon barrel
or a "I'm so hungover I shoulda stayed home" barrel. Optimum headspace,
chambering/engraving the bullet, barrel diameter, crown and lapped bore all are important.

#4 Barrel shimming. Stops stock flex, dampens barrel vibrations
Slim lines and oversized inletting allow recoil bounce.
Shims in the barrel channel support the barrel and balance load on the receiver
as well as minimizing barrel vibrations.

#5 Optics, more power/clarity, means better sight picture.
If you can't see it, you can't hit it.

#6 Stock replacement to add weight and rigidity

#7 Trigger work/replacement makes the smallest improvement.
Important to a benchrest shooter chasing thousandths of an inch
but even a creepy/gritty trigger can be gotten used to.
 
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I use 2 part 5 minute epoxy thickened with wood flour.
Regular baking flour works just as well.

[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"http:\/\/i.imgur.com\/43pztrX.jpg"}[/IMG2]

Wax the barrel and buff it to a shine multiple times. I use at least 5 coats of wax.
I have mold release wax but neutral shoe wax does the job too.
If you want the epoxy shim to be removable, wax the barrel channel also

Set the stock in an upright position with the barrel channel leveled.
Mix about a teaspoonful sized batch of epoxy then add flour gradually to thicken.
Need to be quick as there's only 5 minutes.
When it's reached the consistency of peanut butter, puddle where desired in the barrel channel.
[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/W4O2gbREyCCXrOC5hCN_XWCuHuCYZF0T7vXdM6Hu2ECyWvveZjfSFMY0ckU8cIc8OG5pPh06D1F32w=w456-h220"}[/IMG2]



Just as the epoxy starts to gel, set the barreled receiver back into the stock
keeping the barrel angled slightly away from the stock until you can snug up the action screws.
With the screws snugged up tight, let set for a few hours.

You can have 1 shim or multiples.
Install one at a time or all at once.
[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/hdLxm9u8uYGiRjCnthWud34k9cRU6hE_ph_bs19lnAfAKjYCpG7YONn6NUWSQyKstZHq3Sqb8n7nQg=w366-h220"}[/IMG2]



And if the results don't make you happy, by waxing the barrel channel first,
a quick tap with a wood block and a mallet, pops them back out without damaging the stock
[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/S49emDbwhETZNt7piPhX3TrqrWENvQpZZOq7KuXbT3oe3V_6G_X4seIaY-_uO4j7hWDOroqkjdYM5Q=w407-h220"}[/IMG2]
 
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One single upgrade that should be done to every single rimfire on the planet

It makes EVERYBODY who shoots it enjoy it that much more

I've NEVER seen someone use this upgrade for the first time and not smile!

Usually everybody says I've got to get one of those

Didn't even matter if they hit the target....

A suppressor
 
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12" Uptagrafft Tuner Tube. Gets the sight radius to match that of my Palma rifle. Below is a pic of a 10-shot, 100-yard target from the 2016 Smallbore Prone National Championships. This was from prone position with sling and iron sights. The X-ring = 1".

[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"http:\/\/i65.tinypic.com\/296lr88.jpg"}[/IMG2]
 
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12" Uptagrafft Tuner Tube. Gets the sight radius to match that of my Palma rifle. Below is a pic of a 10-shot, 100-yard target from the 2016 Smallbore Prone National Championships. This was from prone position with sling and iron sights. The X-ring = 1".

Fancy, i have been considering moving to a tuner at somepoint.
 
12" Uptagrafft Tuner Tube. Gets the sight radius to match that of my Palma rifle. Below is a pic of a 10-shot, 100-yard target from the 2016 Smallbore Prone National Championships. This was from prone position with sling and iron sights. The X-ring = 1".

[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"http:\/\/i65.tinypic.com\/296lr88.jpg"}[/IMG2]

Stunning, more info on the rifle, ammo, etc. Please.
 
Sure. It's an Anschutz 2013 in an Anschutz precise stock. Ammo is Lapua Center-X that I got from the Lapua Test Center in Phoenix, AZ in 2015. We tested about a dozen lots of various Lapua ammo through it in their tunnel, and this one was the best. I have enough of it to get me through 2017 match schedule, will probably need to bring it back down to find a new lot around this time next year.
 
Justin, I can see how the barrel shim could help steady things up, but are there ever problems from zero wander due to the barrel heating up. We shoot in some tactical matches, and we have pretty fast strings of fire of 20 shots. This looks like a simple addition, but just wondering about my zero changing due to the barrel heating up. Anyone else with experience trying this please feel free to chime in. Thanks.
 
Barrel shimming is old school. Just another method of stabilizing the barrel.
Only testing in your rifle will determine if it improves or worsens results.
I shoot a fully bedded barrel in 17 hmr, here's a couple of 30 shot runs at 50 yards.
Only problem I have is with ammo quality. [IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/_KOpahXBN-lITrZajnBA8nkukXiQMsudFw4IsfAG9Pli_QmGTipwCMcwwJ5uI8lrJIKhNxDXrM-dVg=w513-h660"}[/IMG2]
[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/NFJ28XO-ZHuIZXbeopfEniieKX95j4Arb4UCIHV4rEzqtxbelXLVhkUFh8eNSV_pHaqhrrAxYiyb-w=w516-h660"}[/IMG2]




At the end of the run where heat build up is the greatest, no shift shows up.


Those were shot with this setup [IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/8B-0JL-YiAOqflkNS4zrbgZx0Kh0hCDqyiYw_QQu5ex8QN6eU8TDHPT13TwVIA-hOTO-JNd-rrrnbw=w448-h220"}[/IMG2]



atop these shims [IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/DDkMHIAXcruQCJGJT8NzUYmVP0xDtvz2z1b9doChrpyDqYf08okAdQueF4QzLW6cdFKIhcs0fni8cA=w248-h440"}[/IMG2]



All you can do is try it.
If it works, keep the shims.
If it doesn't, remove them.

Here's a 30 shot run at 100 yards
from the 455 barrel block SOF

[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"https:\/\/lh3.googleusercontent.com\/CPz5W0ylKfirapaUnAR-dn1OGRojSWTO9H0nNISC_VX-Uo7M-OiOCBqxXJReRf1HGWa5YYDbEeeouQ=w522-h660"}[/IMG2]

Ammunition quality has more effect than temperature change.

rNSyUQeTRfUFS-veAT3bY3osze22vdxWsGYogucNtEtoeyNW7y4jp7jGetET-VN8on3gjFK1tUEl9g=w468-h220
 
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Not sure about rifle mods but the best mod I made to my wife's mk III 22/45 lite was replacing the sear with a volquartsen. Took a pretty bad trigger to one that breaks like glass. Also have the TK victory trigger though so cant say how much helps w the factory trigger 
 
Best mod to the CZ was to reach deeper into the pocket and get some really good ammo.

Best mod I ever did to improve my shooting was to take the CZ rifle and trade it in on an Anschutz 54-18. Better trigger, better barrel, better stock and shoots a much wider range of ammo accurately.

 
I believe it kinda all depends on what you start with.....I started to tinker with a Ruger 10/22 a few years back and by the time I was done it ended being up a Kidd Supergrade...piece by piece. This one is my favorite and the 5098 two stage trigger is one of the best I have ever had the pleasure of finger banging. At the end of the day I believe this Anschutz 64R Biathlon was less expensive than the 10/22


IMG_1023.JPG
 
Not sure if it really qualifies as a mod but after modifying 10/22 after 10/22, the best thing i did was swap it all out for a Volquartsen factory rifle. Fit and finish is outstanding, accuracy is superb. And it has a warranty....
 
Yea it's not as hard as it sounds to get through the red tape, but it's the 8 month wait and the extra $200 that really makes it hard to convince the wife we need another one.
 
Best thing for a 22 I ever did was hunt down a 10/22 Krinker Plinker chassis. It's fun as hell to shoot!
 
Best upgrade I've done to my CMP 40X (older model, 722-style) was send it to Jelrod for RAVAGE88's repeater mod. Of course, that lead to fitting & chambering a Benchmark 3-groove bbl, adding a Jewell trigger, 20 MOA scope base, Athlon Cronus 4.5-29x56 scope, and bedding it in a new B&C #2095 stock w/PTG Stealth DBM. And of course, once I had all that done, and the tax stamp finally arrived, I shoot it with a SWR Spectre II can attached. Hard to find another 22RF that's more fun to shoot...
 
12" Uptagrafft Tuner Tube. Gets the sight radius to match that of my Palma rifle. Below is a pic of a 10-shot, 100-yard target from the 2016 Smallbore Prone National Championships. This was from prone position with sling and iron sights. The X-ring = 1".

[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"http:\/\/i65.tinypic.com\/296lr88.jpg"}[/IMG2]

Very solid target! How were the conditions when you shot it? Factory barrel?
 
Yep, factory barrel. I bought the rifle used with about 5k throughbit, and I've added about another 5k. I brought it down to the Lapua test center in 2015 and found a lot of Center-X that beat all of the Midas and X-act that they had to test. I was happy about that, as it saved me about $700 on the case that I bought.

The condition was very nice that particular day, and pretty easy to manage. Where I was squadded on the firing line, I found that at 100 yards, any mirage coming from the right was basically worth nothing. If the mirage switched and came from the left, it would be anyone's guess how much it was worth. As long as I was patient and waited for right mirage, it was safe to shoot with zero wind and I could expect an X. That held true all afternoon and I had all good targets, but the one above was the best. A 1/4 down wouldn't have hurt anything, but the X's kept coming up so I decided not to mess with it. I only dabble in smallbore, so 2016 nationals is the only time I have ever shot at the Bristol range, and I don't know if that condition is typical.
 
Yo' Dave Trigger for a CZ. That has to be the cheapest, most impactful mod to a 22lr there is. Transforms the rifle.

Least economical- A 40X conversion. Bur damn if it isn't pretty. It isn't that the conversion is expensive, though the mags aren't 'cheap', it is the stuff that I did while I was getting it done. Stopped before I replaced the trigger. Barrel, bolt and chassis were enough. Put a nice scope on it and you are in the 40X Mafia- it may be cheaper to buy your way into the real mafia.

*** Hey, where did my 10,000 posts and 5/5 rating go? ;)
 
My only real upgrade is to my 10/22, that couldn't hit a coke can at 50 yards, with a Clark Custom Heavy Barrel Conversion. https://clarkcustomguns.com/gun/ruger-1022-1017/
And a brick of Wolf Match Target.

fetch


It will now shoot. These are two 10-round groups shot at 50 yards. The third group, on the right side of the pic, is a 10-shot group of Blazer.

fetch
 

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depends on the rifle. some come with triggers you can get along with, some don't but "come to life" when one is dropped in or "customized". so i'd put that a little down the list depending on the rifle and the adjustability / amount of customization that can be done to the trigger.

taking ammo out of the equation, i'd say a sloped / moa extended scope base or rings just for the reason that once you start at "normal ranges" you'll probably want to extend it out to where few tend to venture. whether your optic is equipped with a gazzilliion minutes of adjustment or not, putting it on a foundation that helps with it ends the frustration later.

after that the optic, with clear glass and repeatable adjustments. hard to see what your doing if you can't see what your doing.

from there the stock with some sort of bedding.

then the trigger. unless, again refer to first sentence

again depending on the rifle, there may not be a replacement tweeked out barrel available to replace the original, or the ability to do so. your "better" rimfires have some sort of way of swapping out the barrel, but almost by default if they have that feature they already come with a better than average barrel.

actually, if not using an aperature or open sights, i'd place getting the barrel shortened and recrowned 3rd on the list. usually stiffens up and deadens harmonics.