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First range session with newly built rifle - what should I work on?

Leozinho

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Apr 6, 2010
19
4
45
NoVa
Hi,

In a few days I'll have my first range session with a newly built Savage in 6.5 Creedmoor. Brand new barrel, new bedding job, new scope (Vortex Viper HST), new bipod, etc.

I'll be shooting factory 120gr. I'll take the brass and reload it, but for now I'm not working on load development yet.

I'll have a chance to shoot at 100y, and possibly 300y and 600y.

Of course, I want to ensure rifle is functioning properly and get a good zero at 100 yards. I won't have a chrono, but if I can shoot at 600y I can at least use a ballistics calculator to 'true' my muzzle velocity (Not sure of the name of that technique -if you know it let me know.)

I'm going to have a few of the Sniper's Hide targets, and probably will do the dot drills (though there will be the requisite group shooting, too :))

I'm curious about the affects of scope cant, so I'm interested in some drills to insure rifle/scope are level, ie dialing in elevation and making sure it's on a vertical plane. (Need to remember to bring a level/plumb bob). I have a anti-cant bubble to use (once I ensure the scope is mounted correctly.)

What would you on the first range session? I want to practice efficiently, so I'm all ears.

Thanks.
 
I just went through this on Friday.
Pierce actioned, 24" 1:8 twist Rock Bbl, CG Extreme trigger, AI AX folder stock, 6.5 CM Hornady 120g AMax factory loads. Bushnell 3.5x21 with G2 Reticle and mil turrets 0.1 mil/click scope set at 18x.

Step 1 - set focus and parallax settings on the scope and played a bit with cheek weld and natural point of aim/bipod loading to get me consistently behind the gun. About 50 dry fires as well took care of my first 30 minutes of hot range.
Step 2 - Bore sight the scope at 25 yards. Reset vertical zero stop to compensate for the downward cant of the scope. Thought I was working with a 20 MOA base but the rifle had a 20 MOA rail on it and I was really at 40 MOA. Little more dry firing.
Step 3 - Finally got to make the gun go boom!!! Shot a 3 shot string. Rifle on front Atlas bipod, lightly loaded forward rear bag too small but turned it to get the ears lined up with the bore and did manage to put the first shot on paper. Reset point of aim and moved crosshairs to bullet hole without moving the gun. 2 more shots to confirm I was inside the 10 ring.
Step 4 - Move target out to 100 yards - Fired a shot and was well high - did as before, returned to original sight picture and dialed crosshairs to bullet hole. 4 more shots and a click or 2 and the last 2 were near the bull, not quite X-ring but good enough for Govt work.
Step 5 - 4 5 shot groups at the outside of the target corners. Too small a rear bag is a PITA and it makes it difficult to stay in the gun. I'll fix that next week. Gun is a dream to shoot, the last group was the best at about 1/4" R-L and 5/8" vertical (damn bag and I don't breathe well).

I had other guns to shoot that day and switched to my LWRC Reaper which had never been better than a 1 MOA gun and promptly, with the aid of a new Howitzer style muzzle brake promptly produced a 3/8" C-C group once I dialed in the scope. I attribute this to the practice with the new gun improving my concentration.

Dialed in the Aimpoint Comp M4 2 moa dot on my KAC SR-15 that I put on in favor of the 1-4 Trijicon Accupoint I had on it before. Shooting 55g .223 PMC ball it got down near 1 MOA with just a front bag and my fist under the OBR stock.

Called it a day. Too many 200 yard hikes for the shoes I was wearing. Plus I'm 71 years old and it doesn't take much to wear me out anymore

Plan for next weekend is to steal a golf cart, tow it to the range and try some 200 yard stuff with just the REPR and the bolt gun. I have more 120 Amax coming but I want to try out some 139 Scenar and 140 Berger VLDs as well.