I won a can at a match got it after about a year and was very excited. I screwed it on a brand new barrel and took it out for the first time. First I sighted the 260ai in and let it cool shot my 6xc for a little bit went back to my 260ai . first round went low right about 1 1/2 the next round went where it was supposed to go and the rest followed . I let it cool and the same thing happened. I looked for baffle strikes there was nothing so I put it on my 6xc and the same thing happens first round flier later I put it on my 300 win mag and the same thing
Suppressors First round flyers
- Thread starter Baboon
- Start date
No baffle strikes and it is direct thread.
My first thought is that it's not shouldering up 100% and the first round makes it settle
It does it when it cools down every time when it cools down on all of the rifles I put it on. I don’t know weather it’s the difference between the bullet traveling through gas vs air or something else.
No it’s not your’s but thanks I appreciate that.
Here's a similar thread:
https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/1st-round-flyer-what-is-going-on.6917938/
In that case, he believes it's an issue with a particular barrel. However, the common thread is that his did not exhibit that behavior when unsuppressed.
https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/1st-round-flyer-what-is-going-on.6917938/
In that case, he believes it's an issue with a particular barrel. However, the common thread is that his did not exhibit that behavior when unsuppressed.
Is the can loose? is the can and barrel marked for test purposes? Is there a end cap that is not completely tightened and moves?
I have seen shots all over the place due to similar issues. The can is an accessory, I would remove that and see if the rifle groups any differently. Also, on "cold bore shots" sometimes its the person behind the gun settling in...... My advice would be to make sure everything is the same, change one thing at a time to rule stuff out.
I'd be curious to know what it is when you figure it out.
I have seen shots all over the place due to similar issues. The can is an accessory, I would remove that and see if the rifle groups any differently. Also, on "cold bore shots" sometimes its the person behind the gun settling in...... My advice would be to make sure everything is the same, change one thing at a time to rule stuff out.
I'd be curious to know what it is when you figure it out.
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Without the suppressor what does your rifle's cold bore shot look like? With the weight of silencer hanging off the end of your barrel, it could exacerbate your cold bore shot.
What barrel profile and how heavy is your silencer?
What barrel profile and how heavy is your silencer?
I would start with knowing that the weight of the can will adjust shot placement because it changes the way the barrel functions etc..... I would look at your attachment system to the barrel, torque spec if its threaded and also check the end cap. An easy way to determine if there is any movement is to mark the rifle to can and can to end cap. I would start there if there are no baffle strikes..... It appears with the group above you can do your part
varmint contour on all 3 rifles suppressor is 28oz cold bore without the suppressor is not effected.
Hi, if it's a take-apart can, make sure all the parts that move during assembly are fully seated and tight
I’m getting the same thing with a can on two different 300 wm rifles, one a light weight hunting rifle, the other a heavy barrel. I think it’s something with the gasses or temp, as my cold bore shot is about an Moa high on both. If I shoot a group, put the rifle down to cool off, and shoot another group, I get the same results. When I keep the rifles warm, I’m getting consistent sub Moa groups.
I think next I’m going to try pushing some fresh air through the barrel, to rule out gasses. Any other ideas?
I think next I’m going to try pushing some fresh air through the barrel, to rule out gasses. Any other ideas?
I have a SC Omega that does the same thing, but not on every rifle... still haven't figured it out, so im tagging in!
My cab is an omega as well. I’ve grouped on 2 300 wm’s. I’ll have to see what it does on some ARs and a 308.
Anyone try asking SilencerCo about this? I would assume they’ve done tons of testing.
I haven't talked to silencerco...
Mine hated my bolt action blackout, seemed ok on my AR blackout.
it seems to do best on my 300 SAUM
I have a rifle / can combo that is doing this. See thumbnail. I tested 3 different bullets, including a factory load. There was just a few minutes of cooling between each group.
Rifle: 6 Creed AR10
Can: Dakota Silencer Varminter 2.0, 30 cal
Whats odd / frustrating is that this same can / rifle combo did NOT do this initially. I want to say the first 500-600 rounds did not show this. Also, I use this same can on a Desert Tech, and it does NOT do this.
So what gives? Are maybe the threads on can, rifle, or both not lining up the baffles with the bore perfectly? Even so, why just the first shot of the group?
FWIW, the first shot of each group was very consistent.
Anyone find a solution?
I've heard of putting a little water in the can, but as I understand it, that's to help with 1st round sound suppression.
Rifle: 6 Creed AR10
Can: Dakota Silencer Varminter 2.0, 30 cal
Whats odd / frustrating is that this same can / rifle combo did NOT do this initially. I want to say the first 500-600 rounds did not show this. Also, I use this same can on a Desert Tech, and it does NOT do this.
So what gives? Are maybe the threads on can, rifle, or both not lining up the baffles with the bore perfectly? Even so, why just the first shot of the group?
FWIW, the first shot of each group was very consistent.
Anyone find a solution?
I've heard of putting a little water in the can, but as I understand it, that's to help with 1st round sound suppression.
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I'm back with the same problem on different rifle and different can.
Rifle: Savage 22-250.
Load: 73 ELDM with Superformance.
Can: Dakota Silencer Varminter 3.0 223 cal.
Interestingly, out of my 3 cans, it only occurs with 1, and only occurs if I let the rifle / can cool for a few minutes between groups. Compare the "V3 Cold" groups with the others. Same rifle, same load, same range session.
The "V3 Hot" group was shot with the same can, right after the upper left "V3 Cold" group with no cooling time. While not the greatest group, it clearly does not have the 1st round flier problem.
I have demonstrated this behavior more than once with the same rifle and load. Here's another target from an earlier range trip:
I've seen a few other threads like this, but no one seems to have any good theories for why it happens. Considering changing the can fixes the problem, we can be certain that is a factor. However, before we blame the can exclusively, I'll mention that I have been using this same can on a 223 AR15 for years, and have never seen this happen there.
My next test will be to change the load to see if a different powder and bullet makes a difference. I'm going to work up the 53 v-max with H4895.
Rifle: Savage 22-250.
Load: 73 ELDM with Superformance.
Can: Dakota Silencer Varminter 3.0 223 cal.
Interestingly, out of my 3 cans, it only occurs with 1, and only occurs if I let the rifle / can cool for a few minutes between groups. Compare the "V3 Cold" groups with the others. Same rifle, same load, same range session.
The "V3 Hot" group was shot with the same can, right after the upper left "V3 Cold" group with no cooling time. While not the greatest group, it clearly does not have the 1st round flier problem.
I have demonstrated this behavior more than once with the same rifle and load. Here's another target from an earlier range trip:
I've seen a few other threads like this, but no one seems to have any good theories for why it happens. Considering changing the can fixes the problem, we can be certain that is a factor. However, before we blame the can exclusively, I'll mention that I have been using this same can on a 223 AR15 for years, and have never seen this happen there.
My next test will be to change the load to see if a different powder and bullet makes a difference. I'm going to work up the 53 v-max with H4895.
Just shoot the first round into the berm. Problem solved 
I don’t have anything to add to help. I have the same issue shooting my 22 can so I’ve removed it. POI seems more consistent with it off. And no flyers like when I use the can. When I do put the can on, my POI is about 1.5” high right.
Update. I had the same problem with my 22-250 using H4895 and Varget, both pushing the 53 V-max. For example:
This only happens with my 223 can. When I put on the 30 cal can, there's no issue. Of course the answer is "just use the 30 cal can dummy". Well yeah, I can do that, but I really wanted the 223 can to work. It's shorter, lighter, and I don't use it for much else.
Even more maddening is the fact that I can put that 223 can on my AR15, and that does not have this problem. I just tested that again last night.
This only happens with my 223 can. When I put on the 30 cal can, there's no issue. Of course the answer is "just use the 30 cal can dummy". Well yeah, I can do that, but I really wanted the 223 can to work. It's shorter, lighter, and I don't use it for much else.
Even more maddening is the fact that I can put that 223 can on my AR15, and that does not have this problem. I just tested that again last night.
I have an SAS that does the same thing.
Sent it in to be checked out and owner claims its the load or the barrel.
I'll also mention I have never dealt with a company with such shitty customer service as SAS.
Sent it in to be checked out and owner claims its the load or the barrel.
I'll also mention I have never dealt with a company with such shitty customer service as SAS.
Hate to bring up a 2 year old thread but has anyone figured this out yet? Got a savage 110 6 arc that throws the first round 2.5" high at 200 then next rounds settle right into the 1 moa gun that i know it to be. Not a cold bore either i shot 8 fouling shots outta the gun to warm it up as i had just cleaned it, the can was warm as well i just pulled it off my 223 that i had been shooting. Gun was kind of a pain to get a good load for and have shot this load out to 1000 with good consistency so i dont want to have to change it all up for that stupid reason.
My theory is it is related to the "atmosphere" inside the can.
Do this test: shoot one shot. Leave the bolt open and use a fan to blow air through the chamber and out the muzzle for 1 min. Shoot another shot and repeat through 5 shots.
If you're getting a consistent position on the gun between shots, I expect they'll all group together.
Do this test: shoot one shot. Leave the bolt open and use a fan to blow air through the chamber and out the muzzle for 1 min. Shoot another shot and repeat through 5 shots.
If you're getting a consistent position on the gun between shots, I expect they'll all group together.
I am having the same issue with my 6 ARC AR during load development. Every first round is a flyer. Really sucks because they are awesome groups without the damn flyer. I am using a Silencerco Omega. An important note is that my bolt wouldn't cycle the next round after the first shot, but every other shot was a perfect 3-4 o'clock ejection pattern.
I am going to try and shoot without the can next range trip.
I am going to try and shoot without the can next range trip.
