I picked up a set of gemtech shims and the instructions say to use rocksett adhesive. ...
Other than rocksett, what other adhesives will work?
Other than rocksett, what other adhesives will work?
Gunsmithing First time using a shim set, not crush washer - glue question
- Thread starter hermosabeach
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Use Rocksett and be done with it, it will hold up to the thermal cycles of the rifle while Red Loctite will not.
Rocksett: "-350 degrees F up to 2,015 degrees F"
Red Loctite: "removable once cured by heating up parts to 500°F "
Both were taken from the manufacturers info.
Rocksett: "-350 degrees F up to 2,015 degrees F"
Red Loctite: "removable once cured by heating up parts to 500°F "
Both were taken from the manufacturers info.
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Why don't you use what Gemtech recommends? One use tube from Midway is only 2 bucks! Advanced Armament Co (AAC) Rocksett High Temperature Thread Locking
I guess my first post needed a facepalm pic-
I really had no idea that I needed to order the Rocksett when I ordered the shims
The shims are listed on several sites and none of the sites mention that the shims should be used in conjunction with Rocksett.
I thought that the brake was held in place by the 30 ft pounds of torque.
I would think that the manufacturer would help us WECSOG juniors know that the product is needed so we don need to place a follow up order
Shim Kits for Mounting Flash Hiders
I really had no idea that I needed to order the Rocksett when I ordered the shims
The shims are listed on several sites and none of the sites mention that the shims should be used in conjunction with Rocksett.
I thought that the brake was held in place by the 30 ft pounds of torque.
I would think that the manufacturer would help us WECSOG juniors know that the product is needed so we don need to place a follow up order
Shim Kits for Mounting Flash Hiders
Here is the best skinny on lock tight, super glue and others...
I had got a high standard .22 to use at the DE state pistol club to use in competition. The new guns were now using an Allen wrench bolt to hold the barrel on the receiver.
About half way into the match the damn screw would work lose and caused me to alibi my scores. That hurt my high master record big time!
I tried everything that anybody would tell me to no avail.
Then the clubs master gunsmith said I should use Anti-cease compound.
I thought he was joking but gave it a try anyway.
Believe it or not it did work!
I still sold the gun out of anger for the loss of my high master rating.
I had got a high standard .22 to use at the DE state pistol club to use in competition. The new guns were now using an Allen wrench bolt to hold the barrel on the receiver.
About half way into the match the damn screw would work lose and caused me to alibi my scores. That hurt my high master record big time!
I tried everything that anybody would tell me to no avail.
Then the clubs master gunsmith said I should use Anti-cease compound.
I thought he was joking but gave it a try anyway.
Believe it or not it did work!
I still sold the gun out of anger for the loss of my high master rating.
You want to use the Rocksett on your brake because the last thing you need is the brake being spun off as you try to remove your can while it's still warm and it's got a grip on the brake. Been there, done that, I won't be doing that again!
Locktite 640 is made for High temperatures and it is not affected by oil or solvents and is a medium strength which is more than enough for the size threads your dealing with but if you want high strength and high temperature go with Locktite 620 and it also is not affected by oil or solvents....be prepared though if you use 620 as it will be difficult to remove when you want to remove it. Rocksett is old technology and is affected by water which is how you remove it. I have seen it come loose when broken down by oil,solvents and water.
And yet suppressor manufacturers recommend Rocksett for a reason, the temperature ratings of both of the listed products is well below temperatures a brake will see in service with a suppressor. Yes, soaking is how you remove Rocksett, but how much soaking are you going to be doing vs how much shooting you are doing? Let's be real here, OP is looking for factually sound advice. I love red and blue locktite for their intended uses, but a suppressor is not one of them.
You get your brake over 450 degrees sustained temps? I have simply seen rocksett let loose many times over the years especially in highly humid environments and it will let loose from solvents such as for cleaning. When I started using these types of loctite we had no more issues, even on braked and suppressed weapons running full auto that see way more heat than any bolt rifle. We have shot matches in pouring rain and where we live the humidity is usually pretty high and rocksett sucks up the moisture I guess as it cools during heating and cooling cycles. I know this to be fact and spent quite some time looking for a product that would solve the problems that we have found with rocksett, red, blue loctite, permatex threadlocker...we tried them all. All have failed at one time or another for whatever reason but these others have not failed in anything we have put them on since we found them...been almost 4yrs and probably over several hundred applications.
First, the OP never mentioned whether this is a bolt gun or a semi-auto, you're assuming.
Yes, I've had my mounts well over 450 degrees on a number of occasions on semi-autos and here when the temperatures are 110+ the damn rifle takes forever to cool so it will see those temperatures for extended periods of times. Compound that with heat cycles and it will fail. I've used red locktite extensively on critical driveline components for drag racing. It worked great there, never failed me. But a quick use of the torch and it was not difficult to break free.
I've never had a mount come loose with Rocksett that was properly applied. I'm not going to get into a pissing match over this. Gemtech and other companies recommend Rocksett because it works.
Yes, I've had my mounts well over 450 degrees on a number of occasions on semi-autos and here when the temperatures are 110+ the damn rifle takes forever to cool so it will see those temperatures for extended periods of times. Compound that with heat cycles and it will fail. I've used red locktite extensively on critical driveline components for drag racing. It worked great there, never failed me. But a quick use of the torch and it was not difficult to break free.
I've never had a mount come loose with Rocksett that was properly applied. I'm not going to get into a pissing match over this. Gemtech and other companies recommend Rocksett because it works.
Yes you are correct, I did assume that it was a bolt gun and we know where that gets us. ZombieMonkey Im not trying to get into a pissing mach with you over this, I am simply answering the question that was asked as an alternative to rocksett. You are absolutely correct on red locktite it has no resistance to heat or oil and solvents. Blue is even worse in that type of enviroment but as you stated they do have there place. The stuff I am referring to is Green, another guy mentioned red. I see that you live in AZ, desert type climate so you should never have any problems with rocksett. I live in FL, its a humid swamp and we end up shooting in the rain at times since it rains here alot during certain times of the year. It is simply experiences that myself and fellow shooters have run across with rocksett.
I am however surprised you actually get your brakes or mounts that hot, but when you start at 110 F guess it wont cool quickly. That is the temperature that you can actually begin to change the temper of the steel and it turns color....hot stuff for sure.
Definitely a different environment. I suppose in high humidity for excessive periods of time it could weaken the Rocksett, that's not something that I could attest to. I've had rifles get wet on occasion, but definitely not for prolonged periods of time.
The bolt guns I would never let get to that kind of extreme, but for a semi-auto I don't really worry about it. It doesn't take much more than a mag or two to get a 10.5 SBR can nice and toasty.
The bolt guns I would never let get to that kind of extreme, but for a semi-auto I don't really worry about it. It doesn't take much more than a mag or two to get a 10.5 SBR can nice and toasty.
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