F T/R Competition FL size VS NK size
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Re: FL size VS NK size
I usually F/L size similar to what Ryan mentioned. I might size a fuzz less than you described, maybe closer to 0.001", but basically the goal (for me) is to make *sure* that things cycle smoothly without binding. The case needs to go into and come out of the chamber easily to facilitate the loading cycle between shots with minimal disruption of the rifle set-up and your position. In my experience the difference in accuracy between minimum F/L sizing and neck-only resizing is negligible... so might as well go for reliability.
I usually F/L size similar to what Ryan mentioned. I might size a fuzz less than you described, maybe closer to 0.001", but basically the goal (for me) is to make *sure* that things cycle smoothly without binding. The case needs to go into and come out of the chamber easily to facilitate the loading cycle between shots with minimal disruption of the rifle set-up and your position. In my experience the difference in accuracy between minimum F/L sizing and neck-only resizing is negligible... so might as well go for reliability.
Re: FL size VS NK size
I will also add consistency in ammo due to F/L. If you neck size, you have to use a body die every once in a while and that changes volume. By constantly F/L sizing the case, it's always at the same size.
And I try for the .001 adjustment also. I want just the slightest hint of resistance as the bolt closes.
I will also add consistency in ammo due to F/L. If you neck size, you have to use a body die every once in a while and that changes volume. By constantly F/L sizing the case, it's always at the same size.
And I try for the .001 adjustment also. I want just the slightest hint of resistance as the bolt closes.
Re: FL size VS NK size
F/L every time, as Dennis notes, for consistency...
If you have a good fit between your die and your chamber, it is no harder on the brass than N/S.
F/L every time, as Dennis notes, for consistency...
If you have a good fit between your die and your chamber, it is no harder on the brass than N/S.
Re: FL size VS NK size
I have both type of dies;
<ul style="list-style-type: disc">[*] Redding Competition Die Sets which separate sizing process into 2 steps
1. Redding Competition Body Die (For bump the shoulder back .001")
2. Redding Competition Nk Sizing Die Only (For Nk sizing only)
[/list] Redding Type S FL Sizing Die w/bushing (Do both process within one step.)
bump the headspace and also Nk sizing with interchangable bushing.
But As I found on accurate shooter forums, some mention that Some FL Die may make fired case over size due to it will also resize the base of case which lead to increase headspace and the shoulder will not bump back. If we turn it down into press to bump the shoulder back, thus will create excessive sizing " Donut "
http://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/die-issues-when-bumping-shoulders/
I currently adjust die by using Redding Competition Shell Holder Set which including with +0.002 , +0.004 , +0.006 , +0.008 , +0.010
Any idea for better result?
I have both type of dies;
<ul style="list-style-type: disc">[*] Redding Competition Die Sets which separate sizing process into 2 steps
1. Redding Competition Body Die (For bump the shoulder back .001")
2. Redding Competition Nk Sizing Die Only (For Nk sizing only)
[/list] Redding Type S FL Sizing Die w/bushing (Do both process within one step.)
bump the headspace and also Nk sizing with interchangable bushing.
But As I found on accurate shooter forums, some mention that Some FL Die may make fired case over size due to it will also resize the base of case which lead to increase headspace and the shoulder will not bump back. If we turn it down into press to bump the shoulder back, thus will create excessive sizing " Donut "
http://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/die-issues-when-bumping-shoulders/
I currently adjust die by using Redding Competition Shell Holder Set which including with +0.002 , +0.004 , +0.006 , +0.008 , +0.010
Any idea for better result?
Re: FL size VS NK size
What they describe in that article can happen... but in my experience its isolated to individual defective dies that are cut a fuzz too long internally. There are a few ways around it if you are having that specific problem, but that doesn't seem to be the topic of interest at this point.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Any idea for better result? </div></div>
Sure. Learn to adjust your headspace using the die lock ring and a headspace comparator insert on your calipers.
The Redding Competition shell holders work slick; thats what I used to use when I started out as they seemed like way less hassle than fussing with the die ring, less trial-n-error, less chance for me to f$ck it up
Eventually I got a Forster Co-Ax press, which doesn't natively use regular shell holders. There is an adapter to accept them if you really want to use 'em... I got it, but after a while I decided I was making more work for myself switching things around than just using that press the way it was intended.
Its really not that hard to do, although it takes a little bit of back-n-forth adjustment. Biggest thing is to not keep sizing one piece of brass over and over trying to final-tweak the setting - the first piece that you size all in one pass will usually give measurably different results.
What they describe in that article can happen... but in my experience its isolated to individual defective dies that are cut a fuzz too long internally. There are a few ways around it if you are having that specific problem, but that doesn't seem to be the topic of interest at this point.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Any idea for better result? </div></div>
Sure. Learn to adjust your headspace using the die lock ring and a headspace comparator insert on your calipers.
The Redding Competition shell holders work slick; thats what I used to use when I started out as they seemed like way less hassle than fussing with the die ring, less trial-n-error, less chance for me to f$ck it up
Its really not that hard to do, although it takes a little bit of back-n-forth adjustment. Biggest thing is to not keep sizing one piece of brass over and over trying to final-tweak the setting - the first piece that you size all in one pass will usually give measurably different results.
Re: FL size VS NK size
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mark Walker</div><div class="ubbcode-body">F/L every time, as Dennis notes, for consistency...
If you have a good fit between your die and your chamber, it is no harder on the brass than N/S. </div></div>
+1
I'm not an FTR shooter but I have had a little luck in the Open class with this method. FL size with .001 / .0015 shoulder bump.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mark Walker</div><div class="ubbcode-body">F/L every time, as Dennis notes, for consistency...
If you have a good fit between your die and your chamber, it is no harder on the brass than N/S. </div></div>
+1
I'm not an FTR shooter but I have had a little luck in the Open class with this method. FL size with .001 / .0015 shoulder bump.
Re: FL size VS NK size
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DBailey</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mark Walker</div><div class="ubbcode-body">F/L every time, as Dennis notes, for consistency...
If you have a good fit between your die and your chamber, it is no harder on the brass than N/S. </div></div>
+1
I'm not an FTR shooter but I have had a little luck in the Open class with this method. FL size with .001 / .0015 shoulder bump. </div></div>
Which type of die that you use for sizing?
Body Die + NK Die
FL Die w/Bushing
Custom FL Die
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DBailey</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mark Walker</div><div class="ubbcode-body">F/L every time, as Dennis notes, for consistency...
If you have a good fit between your die and your chamber, it is no harder on the brass than N/S. </div></div>
+1
I'm not an FTR shooter but I have had a little luck in the Open class with this method. FL size with .001 / .0015 shoulder bump. </div></div>
Which type of die that you use for sizing?
Body Die + NK Die
FL Die w/Bushing
Custom FL Die
Re: FL size VS NK size
FL resize over neck resize if you have a custom tight chamber. Trim length and weight sort brass
FL resize over neck resize if you have a custom tight chamber. Trim length and weight sort brass
Re: FL size VS NK size
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Denys</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Redding bushing die. I never figured out why someone would do this in two steps when one does a great job. </div></div>
Have you Nk sizing all the Length of neck? Or just 1/3 of Nk
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Denys</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Redding bushing die. I never figured out why someone would do this in two steps when one does a great job. </div></div>
Have you Nk sizing all the Length of neck? Or just 1/3 of Nk
Re: FL size VS NK size
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Denys</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I will also add consistency in ammo due to F/L. If you neck size, you have to use a body die every once in a while and that changes volume. By constantly F/L sizing the case, it's always at the same size.
And I try for the .001 adjustment also. I want just the slightest hint of resistance as the bolt closes. </div></div>
That's the deal. I try for .001, but usually end up at .0015 or .002.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Denys</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I will also add consistency in ammo due to F/L. If you neck size, you have to use a body die every once in a while and that changes volume. By constantly F/L sizing the case, it's always at the same size.
And I try for the .001 adjustment also. I want just the slightest hint of resistance as the bolt closes. </div></div>
That's the deal. I try for .001, but usually end up at .0015 or .002.
I F/L neck size and have always gotten great results. Or you can use a Lee collet die which also produces great rounds and is a lot cheaper than other offerings if on a budget.
I use a body die to bump .0015 then a lee collet neck sizer after every firing. Runnout is not a problem this way and I don't turn necks. Would get unexplained fliers and runnout with the fl resizer.
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