Found a SilencerCo SWR radius
- Thread starter Luftwolfe
- Start date
1. Mount it horizontally (12 o'clock) if at all possible due to the shape of the beam, this will minimize false readings. The unit gives you three different ranges, so it's not a deal breaker if you can't do this. I have mine at the 9 o'clock and wish I didn't have to.
2. Adjust the mount to where it is TIGHT on your rail, otherwise you are in for a lot of frustration.
3. Don't mess with measuring the exact offset like the manual tells you to do unless you like wasting time for no measurable gain. Zero the laser to your reticle at a distance that is considerably further than you actually will be shooting.
4. After you think you have it zeroed, rack the action a number of times and check to make sure it has not deviated. Do this repeatedly until little to no movement. Take the batteries out unless it needs to be ready to roll for something. I realize they are lithium batteries, but these are essentially irreplaceable at this time (at least without spending a LOT more money).
5. KEEP IN MIND, if the laser is zeroed to your reticle center and you are dialing... the laser is NO LONGER zeroed to the center of your reticle. This is an easy thing to miss, but also obvious if you think about it. I predominantly hold because it is much faster. That said, when I do dial, I only dial the max value ABOVE reticle center that way I still have a solid, consistent aim point to use the laser on and known point of aim for close shots. This also gives you the benefit of being able to use a whole lot of elevation if need be since you have the whole reticle (above and below center) at your disposal. This is particularly useful for cartridges that are low velocity (22 LR, 300 Blk subs, etc). For instance, one of my short 300 Blk uppers has a 2.5-10x32 optic that gives me a total of 64 MOA of elevation available in the reticle once I've dialed in the 32 MOA up. At that point, my zero (for the gun and the Radius) is the top of the reticle and, therefore, still easy to keep track of if I need a shit ton of elevation. You need to make sure your optic tracks properly if you plan on doing that, but you should do that anyways.
2. Adjust the mount to where it is TIGHT on your rail, otherwise you are in for a lot of frustration.
3. Don't mess with measuring the exact offset like the manual tells you to do unless you like wasting time for no measurable gain. Zero the laser to your reticle at a distance that is considerably further than you actually will be shooting.
4. After you think you have it zeroed, rack the action a number of times and check to make sure it has not deviated. Do this repeatedly until little to no movement. Take the batteries out unless it needs to be ready to roll for something. I realize they are lithium batteries, but these are essentially irreplaceable at this time (at least without spending a LOT more money).
5. KEEP IN MIND, if the laser is zeroed to your reticle center and you are dialing... the laser is NO LONGER zeroed to the center of your reticle. This is an easy thing to miss, but also obvious if you think about it. I predominantly hold because it is much faster. That said, when I do dial, I only dial the max value ABOVE reticle center that way I still have a solid, consistent aim point to use the laser on and known point of aim for close shots. This also gives you the benefit of being able to use a whole lot of elevation if need be since you have the whole reticle (above and below center) at your disposal. This is particularly useful for cartridges that are low velocity (22 LR, 300 Blk subs, etc). For instance, one of my short 300 Blk uppers has a 2.5-10x32 optic that gives me a total of 64 MOA of elevation available in the reticle once I've dialed in the 32 MOA up. At that point, my zero (for the gun and the Radius) is the top of the reticle and, therefore, still easy to keep track of if I need a shit ton of elevation. You need to make sure your optic tracks properly if you plan on doing that, but you should do that anyways.
That is what I do, night or late dusk with preference to the latter. I exclusively use the Radius with a clip-on night vision device, so confirming zero before use works out well timing-wise. In case you are using NV, you can actually see the ranging beam and will see what I'm referring to as far as the beam shape.
ETA: I confirm laser zero farther than 700 yd, but as long as whatever distance you zero it at constitutes "farther than you plan on using it," then you are good to go.
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I disagree on not using offset zero. You should zero it like the instructions say and measure the offset. .5 mils is .5 mils at any range. If you dial it doesn’t matter.
Regarding zero offset, agree to disagree. Same principles apply to using IR laser. OP is free to try it both ways and feel out the results.
Regarding the scope dialing and changing where your laser is aiming with respect to the reticle, either you misread what I typed or you are confused. If you still disagree, I encourage you to go out and try it. That is, unless the jury is still out on... physics.
Well I probably misread it. Wouldn’t be the first time and won’t be the last
ARC M-Brace with the LRF mount. $280 for the mount, $150 for the LRF mount. Along with the top rail they have side mounts, too. I have several of them and they are badass. More high quality stuff from ARC.
This makes sense, I do like knowing my exact offset however so if I am shooting at something, say, groundhog sized I know I am not running the laser over the top of him. Maybe the near/far reading is good enough to weed this out....Mostly this didn't come into play for me much though as I almost exclusively used the Radius at night. Pretty easy to see exactly what it was reading.
OP, you did good on the price. I actually bought mine here for $650 years ago, ran it for a couple of years and sold it for considerably more. I think I regret it. It was a good unit except for the battery cover. Someone needs to fill this market at around these price points.
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