Guys, I know the majority of highpowered rifle cans are welded throughout. Does anyone make a suppressor that fully disassembles?
Thanks, Brandon
Thanks, Brandon
Suppressors Fully Diss. Assy. 308 Suppressor???
- Thread starter fockell
- Start date
Re: Fully Diss. Assy. 308 Suppressor???
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: hink</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Go Shark and don't go back.
www.sharksuppressors.com</div></div>
+1
David is good people and really takes care of his customers.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: hink</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Go Shark and don't go back.
www.sharksuppressors.com</div></div>
+1
David is good people and really takes care of his customers.
Re: Fully Diss. Assy. 308 Suppressor???
Why do you need a user serviceable .308 cal can?
or is that just one of those "because" deals?
Why do you need a user serviceable .308 cal can?
or is that just one of those "because" deals?
Re: Fully Diss. Assy. 308 Suppressor???
I like the idea of being able to change end caps to change calibers and of course for cleaning.
I like the idea of being able to change end caps to change calibers and of course for cleaning.
Re: Fully Diss. Assy. 308 Suppressor???
I have a few cans and from my research and with talking to the builders. They say not to clean them. AWC told me that cleaning the can is a waste of time and tat a dirty can actually quiets the sound more. With that said I have never cleaned my cans and they function great.
I have a few cans and from my research and with talking to the builders. They say not to clean them. AWC told me that cleaning the can is a waste of time and tat a dirty can actually quiets the sound more. With that said I have never cleaned my cans and they function great.
Re: Fully Diss. Assy. 308 Suppressor???
Shark cans are top notch in all aspects. The ability to swap to different threads makes it even better. I shoot mine on my .223, 6.5 Grendle and .308. I have threads in 1/2, 9/16, 5/8 and 3/4 that are used on the same can.
David is great to deal with and his customer service is unmatched.
He is also a SH member.
Shark cans are top notch in all aspects. The ability to swap to different threads makes it even better. I shoot mine on my .223, 6.5 Grendle and .308. I have threads in 1/2, 9/16, 5/8 and 3/4 that are used on the same can.
David is great to deal with and his customer service is unmatched.
He is also a SH member.
Re: Fully Diss. Assy. 308 Suppressor???
I got to try a Shark on my TRG this past weekend and I was very impressed. I was not aware that they came apart for cleaning. Great sound and the ability to change threads is great. For me it means I won't have to re-thread my factory barrel or worry about getting a replacement barrel with metric threads in the future.
I got to try a Shark on my TRG this past weekend and I was very impressed. I was not aware that they came apart for cleaning. Great sound and the ability to change threads is great. For me it means I won't have to re-thread my factory barrel or worry about getting a replacement barrel with metric threads in the future.
Re: Fully Diss. Assy. 308 Suppressor???
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: fockell</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I like the idea of being able to change end caps to change calibers and of course for cleaning. </div></div>
Illegal to change caliber of suppressor, and Illegal to have extra end caps / adapters for barrel threads are OK
(dosen't make sense, but that's the Government for ya)
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: fockell</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I like the idea of being able to change end caps to change calibers and of course for cleaning. </div></div>
Illegal to change caliber of suppressor, and Illegal to have extra end caps / adapters for barrel threads are OK
(dosen't make sense, but that's the Government for ya)
Re: Fully Diss. Assy. 308 Suppressor???
Another Shark recomendation...great product combined with great customer service. The most versitile can I own due to integrated thread adapters. Huge advantage of the modular design is that in the event of a baffle strike if the outer tube is not damaged the can is repairable.
Another Shark recomendation...great product combined with great customer service. The most versitile can I own due to integrated thread adapters. Huge advantage of the modular design is that in the event of a baffle strike if the outer tube is not damaged the can is repairable.
Re: Fully Diss. Assy. 308 Suppressor???
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: a_bishop</div><div class="ubbcode-body">i wish i would have known about shark before i purchased my gemtech </div></div>
Why?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: a_bishop</div><div class="ubbcode-body">i wish i would have known about shark before i purchased my gemtech </div></div>
Why?
Re: Fully Diss. Assy. 308 Suppressor???
Having adapters to swap threads is a better idea than endcaps. You as a non SOT paying non FFL cannot legally possess extra endcaps as they are considered by the ATF to be suppressors in and of themselves. As another poster noted its stupid but thats the regs. So you can have a thread adapter but not an endcap. Some manufactures have ways to adapt the cans by using inserts in the endcap which works well. Others just make adapters. In any case there is no reason to have a rifle cal can that is user serviceable. Now for details.....if the can has welded endcaps its no biggie. If you let the can get loose on the barrel and you blast a baffle or two the endcaps can be removed by a licensed manufacturer and the baffles removed for repair or replaced. You can't legally do that, only a licensed manufacturer who pays the SOT can. So any need for user serviceable? Not really. . . On the other hand the cans which have the baffles as well as the endcaps welded in are a different story. Damage one of these baffles and things are more complicated. It can be repaired but its tougher.
As far as cleaning its just not needed unless you are shooting .22LR or cast lead bullets through your suppressor which you shouldn't be doing with a rifle can. The high heat and blast of a rifle cal will help keep the baffles cleared of buildup that can create problems. If you shoot lead or .22 LR through it though you'll get thick build up that can come loose when firing rifle cal ammo and that can cause bullet strikes and damage to the tube as well as the baffles. Damage the tube and you're out $200 in tax as well as any other cost. Lastly, a lot of rifle cal suppressors use non-symmetrical baffles that need to be oriented in a specific manner. They create gas jets that increase turbulence in the flow which helps slow and cool the gas. If the baffles are allowed to turn it can cause a situation where the gas jets push a bullet off its path and baffle strike or just poor accuracy result. For this reason many manufacturers weld the baffle stack together and into the can. You want top performance from your expensive suppressor so leave it how it was from the factory. Welding also allows the manufacturer to make a lighter product by using the baffles to help support the tube so the tube wall can be thinner. Heat builds up in a suppressor and all materials lose strength as temps climb. Welding to reinforce the strength of all the parts is a good way to allow heat while preventing blowups.
Last, I've cut apart a number of test suppressors that have had 4-6000 rds through them on machineguns or bolt guns and found that the machinegun cans tend to be very clean inside as they run hot enough to keep even the carbon buildup burned off. The bolt gun cans are still very clean even after thousands of rounds and being able to take them apart just for cleaning wouldn't make any sense. .22 cal cans do need to be disassembled just because of the lead buildup but they are the exception.
Hope that helps as an alternate point of view.
Frank
Having adapters to swap threads is a better idea than endcaps. You as a non SOT paying non FFL cannot legally possess extra endcaps as they are considered by the ATF to be suppressors in and of themselves. As another poster noted its stupid but thats the regs. So you can have a thread adapter but not an endcap. Some manufactures have ways to adapt the cans by using inserts in the endcap which works well. Others just make adapters. In any case there is no reason to have a rifle cal can that is user serviceable. Now for details.....if the can has welded endcaps its no biggie. If you let the can get loose on the barrel and you blast a baffle or two the endcaps can be removed by a licensed manufacturer and the baffles removed for repair or replaced. You can't legally do that, only a licensed manufacturer who pays the SOT can. So any need for user serviceable? Not really. . . On the other hand the cans which have the baffles as well as the endcaps welded in are a different story. Damage one of these baffles and things are more complicated. It can be repaired but its tougher.
As far as cleaning its just not needed unless you are shooting .22LR or cast lead bullets through your suppressor which you shouldn't be doing with a rifle can. The high heat and blast of a rifle cal will help keep the baffles cleared of buildup that can create problems. If you shoot lead or .22 LR through it though you'll get thick build up that can come loose when firing rifle cal ammo and that can cause bullet strikes and damage to the tube as well as the baffles. Damage the tube and you're out $200 in tax as well as any other cost. Lastly, a lot of rifle cal suppressors use non-symmetrical baffles that need to be oriented in a specific manner. They create gas jets that increase turbulence in the flow which helps slow and cool the gas. If the baffles are allowed to turn it can cause a situation where the gas jets push a bullet off its path and baffle strike or just poor accuracy result. For this reason many manufacturers weld the baffle stack together and into the can. You want top performance from your expensive suppressor so leave it how it was from the factory. Welding also allows the manufacturer to make a lighter product by using the baffles to help support the tube so the tube wall can be thinner. Heat builds up in a suppressor and all materials lose strength as temps climb. Welding to reinforce the strength of all the parts is a good way to allow heat while preventing blowups.
Last, I've cut apart a number of test suppressors that have had 4-6000 rds through them on machineguns or bolt guns and found that the machinegun cans tend to be very clean inside as they run hot enough to keep even the carbon buildup burned off. The bolt gun cans are still very clean even after thousands of rounds and being able to take them apart just for cleaning wouldn't make any sense. .22 cal cans do need to be disassembled just because of the lead buildup but they are the exception.
Hope that helps as an alternate point of view.
Frank
Re: Fully Diss. Assy. 308 Suppressor???
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: fockell</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Guys, I know the majority of highpowered rifle cans are welded throughout. Does anyone make a suppressor that fully disassembles?
Thanks, Brandon</div></div>
no need to clean a center fire can EVER... only rimfire...
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: fockell</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Guys, I know the majority of highpowered rifle cans are welded throughout. Does anyone make a suppressor that fully disassembles?
Thanks, Brandon</div></div>
no need to clean a center fire can EVER... only rimfire...
Re: Fully Diss. Assy. 308 Suppressor???
Shark's suppressor have no problem being taken apart and being put back together and returning to zero. Done it many times. The machine work is great and the it shows.
Shark's suppressor have no problem being taken apart and being put back together and returning to zero. Done it many times. The machine work is great and the it shows.
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