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F T/R Competition Getting into F-Class and need some advice

The4GunGuy

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Aug 11, 2018
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Considerations
  1. I will still shoot PRS and so I want to retain my 6.5 Creedmoor loading with F-Class as well so I can re-use the same materials (case, primer, powder) I may go to a heavier projectile (shoot 140 ELDM for PRS, but also have 147 ELDM's that I would try for F-Class).
  2. When I have shot out my current brass (have about 10x firings to go), I may look into a "flatter" round like 6mm BR
  3. I've done some research on production F-Class rifles, but can't find any in 6.5 Creedmoor to begin with, so I'm probably going to build one with the following components
    1. Action: Impact Precision (fixed shoulder) 737R Action (what I use for PRS) with built in 20 MOA rail
    2. Barrel: Pre-fit for the 373R above and manufacturer TBD.
      1. I'd like to stay at 27" if that can be done, but what length should I really be looking at for those 600 yard shots?
      2. If I go longer (say 30") what twist should that length have or can I stay with 1:8 like my PRS barrels at 26"?
      3. What contour should I be looking at? Varmint/Sendero to keep the weight down? I run an M24/40 on my PRS but that might be too heavy.
      4. Should I flute the barrel to reduce weight? Not looking for an accuracy debate on fluting here, just want to know what people do to reduce the weight and if they flute the barrel.
    3. Stock: GRAYBOE RIDGEBACK ADJUSTABLE FIBERGLASS STOCK - REMINGTON 700 M5/DBM (AICS). I know I should probably NOT get a stock with a magazine well for weight, but I also want to be able to use this rifle in PRS competition if I want to down the road.
    4. Bipod: Tier One Bipod FTR
    5. Scope: Looking at a March High Master 10-60x56 MTR-5 Reticle 1/8 MOA Riflescope D60HV56LM-MTR-5 but open to recommendations...I LOVE the reticle on this one and reticle is a big thing for me.
    6. Scope Mount: Open to suggestions here but assume that I don't need a tank like the Spuhr I run for PRS since I'm not grabbing the rifle by the scope during movement.
    7. Trigger: TriggerTech Rem 700 Diamond Trigger (single stage)
  4. My ask:
    1. Tell me what you think of the above given the fact that I will not shoot F-Class out to 1,000 yards and will always stay at the 600 yard competition distance. Trust me, I WON'T shoot the 1,000 yard stuff. I have no intention of putting thousands of more dollars into front rests, etc...
    2. What am I missing here? I know about the 18.18 lb weight limitation and think I'm good there (I have a spreadsheet that I'm adding up the weights on and so far I'm under by about 5 lbs so far)
Thanks for your help in advance folks. Just to be clear, I'm not looking to win a national or regional championship here. I'm just looking to have some fun out to 600 yards and compete against myself. I could probably just use my existing setup for PRS, but my Zero Compromise scope only goes to 27x and I don't want to exchange scopes on the rifle for each type of match (I'm lazy that way!).
 
You 26" will be fine. Since you are shooting 6.5 Creedmoor, (F Class Open) you don't have to worry about weight as much as FTR. (10 kg or 20 ish pounds). You would be fine with your current set up, or MTU, Heavy Varmint, or even straight, no need for fluting, etc. So get one with a mag well if you want it. Most comps will only let you single load anyway, but you can have a magazine. Stay with 1/8 (if you want). JFYI, your ZCO 27x will be excellent at 600 (and beyond) and you may find yourself dialing back depending on the conditions.


 
You 26" will be fine. Since you are shooting 6.5 Creedmoor, (F Class Open) you don't have to worry about weight as much as FTR. (10 kg or 20 ish pounds). You would be fine with your current set up, or MTU, Heavy Varmint, or even straight, no need for fluting, etc. So get one with a mag well if you want it. Most comps will only let you single load anyway, but you can have a magazine. Stay with 1/8 (if you want). JFYI, your ZCO 27x will be excellent at 600 (and beyond) and you may find yourself dialing back depending on the conditions.


Great links 37L1 thanks!
 
If you are only planning to shoot mid range matches the 6.5 will be fine. Big difference in equipment between F-TR and Open. If you are going with 6.5 you will be in the Open class with 22 pound weight limit. Best thing to do is visit a match and see what works and be able to ask specific questions before you go down the rabbit hole
 
If you are only planning to shoot mid range matches the 6.5 will be fine. Big difference in equipment between F-TR and Open. If you are going with 6.5 you will be in the Open class with 22 pound weight limit. Best thing to do is visit a match and see what works and be able to ask specific questions before you go down the rabbit hole
Thanks ballisticdaddy! Going to a match this weekend to scope it out and ask questions.
 
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As others have said, you want to go to the line with the heaviest contour barrel you can use in your PRS matches. 22 shots in 22 minutes seems like a long time, but if you get a favorable wind condition you want to run them rounds as fast as possible.
I would look at Phoenix bipods as well. You didn't mention your rear bag setup. This is a case where bigger and heavier is better too. Make sure the bag is angled for the shape of the stock, (not flat between the ears). If you go to a match before purchasing equipment, pay attention to the ftr guys equipment, not the open guys. You will be shooting the same equipment as the ftr shooters (even if you will competing against the open guys).
Leave the muzzle brake at home!
 
As others have said, you want to go to the line with the heaviest contour barrel you can use in your PRS matches. 22 shots in 22 minutes seems like a long time, but if you get a favorable wind condition you want to run them rounds as fast as possible.
I would look at Phoenix bipods as well. You didn't mention your rear bag setup. This is a case where bigger and heavier is better too. Make sure the bag is angled for the shape of the stock, (not flat between the ears). If you go to a match before purchasing equipment, pay attention to the ftr guys equipment, not the open guys. You will be shooting the same equipment as the ftr shooters (even if you will competing against the open guys).
Leave the muzzle brake at home!
Great stuff Govt Mule! Thanks very much.
 
If your really interested in f class do not build the rifle you listed. With the exception of the scope and bipod your pissing in the wind. Just shoot your prs rifle and have fun if you still enjoy after shooting it a while. Then build and f open rifle. You will want a straight1.25 barrel single shot action and a stock with a flat bottom you can still run a bipod on it but as you grow with the sport it’s going to get competitive and you will upgrade to a rest $500 rest is better then a $500 bipod in the open game
 
If your really interested in f class do not build the rifle you listed. With the exception of the scope and bipod your pissing in the wind. Just shoot your prs rifle and have fun if you still enjoy after shooting it a while. Then build and f open rifle. You will want a straight1.25 barrel single shot action and a stock with a flat bottom you can still run a bipod on it but as you grow with the sport it’s going to get competitive and you will upgrade to a rest $500 rest is better then a $500 bipod in the open game
Thanks man...I totally agree at this point. I'm going to run my PRS rig and may invest in a rest I can grow into. MY thought is that with the front rest I should be able to at least get a bag that will work with my MDT ACC chassis for now, then I can upgrade the bag if I really get into this and build a rifle. Thanks for the help and Geaux Tigers!
 
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I started f class with practical long range rifle with 20power scope and flip out bipod and a bean bag and topped out score was 199-13x was the best I could do lots of 197-198’s then my competitive nature took over and built an f class rig to compete with the rest of the pack.

So you can be competitive with your prs rig you just wont win lol
 
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Totally agree with the all 10 rules posted above. If you shoot an X, shoot again ASAP.

By the same token, if you shoot a 9 (or worse 8) and you have been drilling the 10 ring, wait until conditions change. I've shot with people that waited 5-6 min to take one shot and turn a previous 8 into 10 or X on the next shot.
 
Be careful with some of these suggestions if you plan to shoot outside the USA or in squadded events where the speed of the shooter next to you influences the speed you can shoot.

In a single string event you can practically go full auto, but not in a squadded relay.
 
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