So based on the fact you got an AI to get into long range shooting, I'm going to assume you'd rather spend a bit more at the start so you don't have to replace it later. That being the case, I'll give some recommendations for certain items, but feel free to shop around a bit and find what you fancy. There's already been some great advise in this thread and I'll try not to repeat it, but I may re-emphasize some parts. A disclaimer: I've only been reloading for a few years and so have much less experience than most people here. I'm writing this out as I somewhat recently went through the buying process for most of this and wanted to pass on my own thoughts.
Calipers: absolutely required. Mitutoyo's are considered some of the best, but any good digital or dial calipers will work well.
Comparators: very good to have. You'll need to be able to measure shoulder bump and case base to ogive to get the best results. Hornady sells a kit that's good and Sinclair sells a comparator body and inserts that are similar but slightly better materials (steel vs aluminum). You'll need a 30 degree shoulder and 6.5/.264 bullet comparator for 6.5cm and a 20 degree shoulder / .30 bullet comparator for .308.
Case Gauge: good to have if you don't want to use comparators or want to load ammo that will fit in any chamber.
Press: any good press will get it done. I personally would recommend a Dillon 550, Forster Co-Ax, or Redding T-7 for a quality progressive, single stage, or turret press for all the reasons stated above. The 550 will be a bit more expensive to get the press and toolheads set up and going, but with the advantage of the speed of a progressive once you're set up and running. The Co-Ax is great, self-aligning and can quickly swap dies in but is impossible to find in-stock (you'll have to set some stock alerts w/ a few websites and wait for one to come in, not great if you want to get started reloading this week but definitely worth it if you're willing to wait). The T-7 is a great turret press that's frequently in-stock and you won't have to take dies in and out to swap operations/calibers but some (a few, not many) have seen a bit of flex in the head that induces a small amount of run-out. Do some research and get what looks good to you.
Dies: pick your favorite. Redding and Forster dies are very popular in the precision crowd, but Hornady, RCBS, Lee, and others have made plenty of people happy. Full-Length resizing seems to be the standard now with fewer people neck sizing only anymore. Bushing dies are nice since you can set how much you size the neck to not over-work the brass, or Forster can hone out one of their dies to your specified neck diameter. Micrometer seater dies are a bit more expensive but make setting seating depth so much easier.
-Mandrel die: a lot of guys are moving to mandrel dies to expand the neck after resizing rather than using the included expander ball to reduce run-out. There are several great threads on this forum that discuss the benefits of mandrels, check them out if you're interested. Several companies make mandrels and mandrel dies, they're normally about $30-40 for the die and $10 for steel mandrels, $25-30 for coated, and $50 for carbide mandrels.
Lube: you have to lube bottle neck cartridges for resizing. 95% Isopropyl alcohol and liquid lanolin is a great, cheap way to make your own. Imperial sizing wax works very well, as does hornady one shot. Everyone has their favorite.
Case Prep: you'll need to be able to trim, chamfer, and deburr your cases. There are a lot of ways to skin this cat, but if you do it in-bulk for long enough you'll eventually get a Giraud or Henderson powdered case trimmer. Until then, a Giraud tri-way trimmer, Trim-It 2, or Worlds Finest Trimmer (this one will need a separate chamfer and deburring tool, which plenty of companies make) will get the job done quickly and easily. You could also get a hand case trimmer, but you're not going to save much and it will take alot more time to get through.
-Primer uniforming, flash hole deburring, neck turning: all things you can do to improve consistency of your cases, though some (primer uniforming specifically) have mixed thoughts if it actually improves accuracy or is just a waste of time. Not going to go into them here as I don't have much personal experience and you can still get accurate loads without them.
-Annealing: if you reload the same cases multiple times, it's beneficial to anneal the case neck to relieve the brass of work hardening. There are several ways to do this, but I don't have much experience with them so will leave this for other, more seasoned individuals to explain. I would recommend checking other threads here to get more info.
Priming: if you go Dillon or Co-Ax, you'll have priming on your press. Otherwise most companies make a hand primer tool (RCBS, Lee, etc. I have a Sinclair hand priming tool i really like), and several make bench mounted tools (RCBS, Primal Rights Comp Primer Seater at the very high end) to really speed things up.
Powder drop and Scale: you'll need something to drop and weigh your powder charge. The RCBS chargemaster 1500 or Lite is a great option that drops and weighs the powder charge for you, Lyman makes a good alternative as well with their digital powder measure or Frankfort arsenal's Intellidropper. The (big) step up from these would be the AutoTrickler with fx-120i digital balance, which is more accurate and faster, but much more expensive. If you go with the Dillon or similar press and want to use the supplied powder dropper or want to use a separate dropper and hand trickler, any good quality digital or beam scale will work well for you.
Funnel: have to get powder into a case somehow. I would strongly recommend a caliber specific aluminum funnel over a one-size-fits-all plastic funnel. Satern makes quality, less expensive caliber specific funnels though they can experience cling with very small flake powders and are a bit top heavy. Area419 makes a great milled aluminum kit with interchangeable caliber heads, and Xtreme Hardcore Gear makes nice caliber specific funnels.
Case Cleaning: walnut, corn cob, stainless steel media, medium grain rice, they all work and have their pro's and con's. Wet tumbling in steel media will be faster and get cases extremely clean, but the media can get stuck in cases which is slow to get out and there's some that say the case necks get too clean, removing carbon that would act as lube. Walnut and corn cob are slower, won't get cases as clean (maybe), create dust and has to be replaced every so often, but is easier to remove from cases and seems, from my experience, to do just fine. There are even some guys here that say unless it hit the dirt or mud, don't bother cleaning it at all.
I think I covered everything, but if I think of anything else I'll add it and hopefully other, more experienced individuals will chime in. Again, take everything I say here and do some research of your own to find what works best for you.
