Got permission to get a new 22. Please help

NDAR15MAN

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Get your 10/22 going. You can get new barrel , stock and other items for less than $600.00. Maybe even a nice scope included with that 600.00. You will be able to compete no problem , plus have a very very accurate hunting gun. Only way to go in my opinion. MD
 

Sasquatch-148

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So I'm having a hard time getting the 10/22 to run reliably.
My dad got me the gun when I was a kid.
Talked to him today and told him I'm going to end up with a bolt gun 22 anyway, and if I cant get the 10/22 to run it will just sit and got get used. He's cool with me trading it out.
Looking at a handfull of guns. Goal will be to run rimfire matches with it. Probably shoot rats at the hog feeder too.
1, I posted about this one before, Walmart has the savage MK2 in a boyds stock with a threaded bull barrel.
2, CZ AT ONE. Looks pretty nice.
3, Looking at 3 different Rugers. The 8351 is black plastic and threaded stainless barrel. The 8348 is the laminated stock with heavy threaded stainless barrel. And then the 8378 is the long range target.
The only reason I am leaning toward the Rugers is because I already have a few 10 and 25 round mags....
The Bergara looks real nice but I've heard a lot of bad things and a buddy has one that the trigger sucked and then got worse as he shot it. I dont want to spent $1,100 and then have to spend more money to replace brand new parts....
And I'm poor. So drooling at pictures of Voodoos is as close as I'll get to one....
Do NOT get rid of that gun ! You'll be sorry some day . Best option is to find out why it's not running smoothly and address that issue . Next option is to put a new barrel on it and maybe a better trigger . Most of the times when a 10/22 doesn't run smoothly it's dirty or using bad mags . Do you break it down and properly clean it ?
 

JG26_Irish

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Clean the Ruger again. I lube my rifles with 1-2 drops of a high grade gun lube and a Q-tip. Only lube the metal parts that rub on other metal parts and only with the minimum amount of lube. Less is more. If you are shooting is a dry, windy, dusty environment, then a dry type lube is a must. Even then, use less.

Ditch the 25 rd mags. The best Ruger is crap for accuracy but it should run OK. I have a few 22's and can shot OK. Of the options you listed: Savage, CZ and Bergara, I have experience with all of them. The CZ and Bergara will be more accurate than the Savage most of the time. The Bergara B14 can take a Rem 700 trigger so that is not an issue. I compete in factory class with a CZ. I have the 457 AT-1 and the 457 VPT in the Manner carbon stock of the two, I like the VPT better just because the stock fits me better. The chassis model is another good one. Tikka t1X is another stellar budget rifle. The plastic stock sucks but there are many after market options available to fix that.
 

SanPatHogger

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Took it apart today. Perfectly clean except for the oil in it.
Brake cleaner and set in the sun. In the top of the receiver are some white streaks from where the bolt and charging handle ride. I used a green scotchbrite pad and a screwdriver to clean up the streaks and just smooth them out a little.
I dug through my stash and came up with 2 bottles of Smith and Wesson dry lube that I got at a NRA dinner years ago. A few drops on the guide rod and where the charging handle and bolt ride. cycled it a few times. Cleaned out the trigger and put dry lube in it too and cycled it a few times. Put it back together but have not shot it yet. I'll take it out and run all 4 mags full through it tonight. Two 10 rounders and two BX 25 round mags.

IMG_6825.jpg

IMG_6826.jpg


IMG_6827.jpg
 

obx22

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First, my thoughts on 10/22 improvements :

What are some absolute “must have” 10/22 mods?
Barrel.
Scope. Quality mount and rings.

Everything else can be done by modifying existing parts, with the exception of a few pins fabricated from drill rod or purchased, a few odd springs, and a piece of rubber/nylon/polybutylene rod.

You can headspace the bolt, pin the firing pin, tune the tip, tune the extractor, radius and smooth the bolt's rear, and polish the bearing surfaces. Polish the charging handle contact points and spring strut.

You can bed the scope rail to the receiver, polish the bolt contact areas, drill the receiver rear for a cleaning rod, replace the recoil pin with a synthetic alternative, bed the barrel tenon to the receiver.

You can open up the factory stock's barrel channel, add an epoxy barrel support pad, bed the receiver rear, pillar bed the take down screw, modify the stocks exterior to better fit the shooter.

You can replace all pins for oversized ones which precisely fit the trigger group parts. Add a sear engagement limiter, disconnector limiter, either a longer trigger return plunger to act as a stop, or tap the trigger for an over travel stop. Polish all contact and bearing surfaces and struts, replace the trigger return and disconnector springs with lighter ones, modify the bolt stop, add an extension for the mag release if desired, precisely fit the sear nose for positive safety function.

Use moly grease for loaded pressure points, light oil for high speed, bearing surfaces.

Buy good ammo.
 

obx22

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First, my thoughts on 10/22 improvements :

What are some absolute “must have” 10/22 mods?
Barrel.
Scope. Quality mount and rings.

Everything else can be done by modifying existing parts, with the exception of a few pins fabricated from drill rod or purchased, a few odd springs, and a piece of rubber/nylon/polybutylene rod.

You can headspace the bolt, pin the firing pin, tune the tip, tune the extractor, radius and smooth the bolt's rear, and polish the bearing surfaces. Polish the charging handle contact points and spring strut.

You can bed the scope rail to the receiver, polish the bolt contact areas, drill the receiver rear for a cleaning rod, replace the recoil pin with a synthetic alternative, bed the barrel tenon to the receiver.

You can open up the factory stock's barrel channel, add an epoxy barrel support pad, bed the receiver rear, pillar bed the take down screw, modify the stocks exterior to better fit the shooter.

You can replace all pins for oversized ones which precisely fit the trigger group parts. Add a sear engagement limiter, disconnector limiter, either a longer trigger return plunger to act as a stop, or tap the trigger for an over travel stop. Polish all contact and bearing surfaces and struts, replace the trigger return and disconnector springs with lighter ones, modify the bolt stop, add an extension for the mag release if desired, precisely fit the sear nose for positive safety function.

Use moly grease for loaded pressure points, light oil for high speed, bearing surfaces.

Buy good ammo.
Now the bad post:
Don’t even consider shopping for a bolt gun until you figure out the 10/22. It’s an incredibly simple design. I’ve owned in excess of 20 and tuned perhaps 3X that many, and have never seen one that couldn’t be figured out.
What ammo?
What’s your environment (temps/humidity)?
Are you using an air compressor when cleaning?
I use liquid lubrication, but with that said, the bolt assembly takes less than 3 drops of oil atomized/spread with compressed air to do the job.
Also, how many rounds do you expect to fire between cleaning?
A factory gun may run a brick of mid grade ammo without a hick-up. My custom built with all fitted parts still gets cranky after 200 rounds. Tight guns take more cleaning.
As for your current issues, I need answers rather than shotgunning a host of cures that may not apply.
 

SanPatHogger

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So I went out this afternoon and shot a few rounds. 10 rounds through each mag to start. Blazer 40gr, CCI SV, and then Federal automath in 2. All 4 had a fail to eject. Sometimes stovepiping an empty sideways and sometime the empty is completly backwards and blocking the bolt open.
Then shot teh 25 round mags with all 25 loaded, Federal automatch. Bopth mags shot about 13 or 14 fine, then started to not eject empties after that.
Buddy of mine suggested running CCI mini mags. I have some of those, I might go back out tonight and just do a couple mag dumps at 100 yards.
 

SanPatHogger

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Now the bad post:
Don’t even consider shopping for a bolt gun until you figure out the 10/22. It’s an incredibly simple design. I’ve owned in excess of 20 and tuned perhaps 3X that many, and have never seen one that couldn’t be figured out.
What ammo?
What’s your environment (temps/humidity)?
Are you using an air compressor when cleaning?
I use liquid lubrication, but with that said, the bolt assembly takes less than 3 drops of oil atomized/spread with compressed air to do the job.
Also, how many rounds do you expect to fire between cleaning?
A factory gun may run a brick of mid grade ammo without a hick-up. My custom built with all fitted parts still gets cranky after 200 rounds. Tight guns take more cleaning.
As for your current issues, I need answers rather than shotgunning a host of cures that may not apply.
CCI Blazer 40gr. CCI SV. Federal automatch. CCI camo ammo out of a milk carton. Trying Minimags later.
Shoot when its anywhere from 40° to 90° or so. Its always humid here, but dry lately.
No air compressor. The bolt and receiver were cleaned spotlessly and lubed with 5w30, It ran smooth for 40 rounds or so and then started to malfunction again, I used a lot of lube. I cleaned it out again and cleaned the rough wear spots on the receiver with a scotchbrite pad and then dry lubed the receiver and dry lubed the charging handle and guide rod and bolt. Shot today and it was no better.
I'd like to shoot a couple hundred rounds without having a malfunction. A 100 ound match would be minimum without a malfunction.
 

FuhQ

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    So I went out this afternoon and shot a few rounds. 10 rounds through each mag to start. Blazer 40gr, CCI SV, and then Federal automath in 2. All 4 had a fail to eject. Sometimes stovepiping an empty sideways and sometime the empty is completly backwards and blocking the bolt open.
    Then shot teh 25 round mags with all 25 loaded, Federal automatch. Bopth mags shot about 13 or 14 fine, then started to not eject empties after that.
    Buddy of mine suggested running CCI mini mags. I have some of those, I might go back out tonight and just do a couple mag dumps at 100 yards.
    It might need the bolt to be taken apart and fully cleaned/inspected. It could need a new ejector/extractor. Also, make sure your chamber is polished clean. I know that sounds like a given, but if there's any crap in that chamber, it will hangup and stovepipe.
     

    obx22

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    CCI Blazer 40gr. CCI SV. Federal automatch. CCI camo ammo out of a milk carton. Trying Minimags later.
    Shoot when its anywhere from 40° to 90° or so. Its always humid here, but dry lately.
    No air compressor. The bolt and receiver were cleaned spotlessly and lubed with 5w30, It ran smooth for 40 rounds or so and then started to malfunction again, I used a lot of lube. I cleaned it out again and cleaned the rough wear spots on the receiver with a scotchbrite pad and then dry lubed the receiver and dry lubed the charging handle and guide rod and bolt. Shot today and it was no better.
    I'd like to shoot a couple hundred rounds without having a malfunction. A 100 ound match would be minimum without a malfunction.
    Examine the chamber breechface for damage either from the firing pin or the extractor hook. Look for dents of a blown extractor groove.
    Check and research “tuning the extractor”.
    Check your ejector.
    Is this gun all factory (original barrel), sometimes barrel tenons are out of spec in length.
    Check that the barrels extractor groove allows the extractor to enter without rubbing on the sides indicating misalignment.
    Again, less lubrication, and use the correct light weight gun oil, leave the motor oil for the cars.
    Check the ejector on your magazines, make sure there’s no damage from dropping.
    Above all else, be safe in diagnosing the issue.
     
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    SanPatHogger

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    I just watched this whole video. It is pretty long, but the guy did a fantastic job. I already have the extractor and firing pin and they work great. I think the foil tape idea is going to help a lot. If it does I will epoxy it and make it permanent.


     

    Alanh

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    Everyone is on the same page about keeping what you have. If you are still wanting to use the mags you could pick up a ruger precision rimfire. It would run you high $300. I have one and I shot it in a match as few times and it ran great.
     

    RETE8

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    I have one in every cal offered lol spend more time shooting those than anything else.
    I had three VBZ models in different rimfire calibers and they all went down the road because of sub-par performance compared to my other rimfire.
     

    Two36

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    I had three VBZ models in different rimfire calibers and they all went down the road because of sub-par performance compared to my other rimfire.
    Yeah I never got any of the Gucci models just stainless/synthetic. A 24" bull barrel on a rimfire was never very appealing to me.
    Sorry about your luck? Mine have been going strong for 25+ years.
     

    RETE8

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    Yeah I never got any of the Gucci models just stainless/synthetic. A 24" bull barrel on a rimfire was never very appealing to me.
    Sorry about your luck? Mine have been going strong for 25+ years.
    That seems to be the recurring theme with Rugers when it comes to accuracy….your either lucky or your not.
     

    Two36

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    That seems to be the recurring theme with Rugers when it comes to accuracy….your either lucky or your not.
    Seems to be a recurring with lots of manufacturers. Had to send a few Remington 700p's and a s&w performance center revolver in for warranty work before I ever shot them. Regardless of product, cars, knives, firearms, packs, clothes etc sometimes you get a lemon.
    To insinuate it's a problem exclusive to Ruger would be silly. I'm sure that's not where you were going, sucks you got some lemons..
     

    MarshallDodge

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    Seems to be a recurring with lots of manufacturers. Had to send a few Remington 700p's and a s&w performance center revolver in for warranty work before I ever shot them. Regardless of product, cars, knives, firearms, packs, clothes etc sometimes you get a lemon.
    To insinuate it's a problem exclusive to Ruger would be silly. I'm sure that's not where you were going, sucks you got some lemons..
    Nobody really wants to pay for quality control. A quality 700P should be $1,600 but Savage makes a $750 model that shoots "just as good", and there was an investment company that was hungry for profit.

    All I know is that my 401K had better perform this year 😉
     

    Two36

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    Nobody really wants to pay for quality control. A quality 700P should be $1,600 but Savage makes a $750 model that shoots "just as good", and there was an investment company that was hungry for profit.

    All I know is that my 401K had better perform this year 😉
    Truth. Most have gone to letting customers perform quality control..

    700p's in question were from 2002ish...

    Daddy told me not to play with savages or I'd get a rash.
     

    SanPatHogger

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    So I shot the gun with the tape shimmed mags, had ejection problems with all 4. So I decided to cut one of the BX25s. A guy on another forum said this fixed his ejection problems. It did not fix mine.
    25769698b00ee98cc5714740a492d9859e6360b2.jpg

    Seems to be better but not fixed. I took a video and it seems like the bolt may not be coming all the way back when it does stovepipe.


    So I took it all back apart again and cleaned off the bolt and used 400 grit wet sand paper and polished the edges of the bolt and the surfaces that ride on any part of the receiver. Put it back together and by hand the bolt feels like it does cycle smoother.
    Took it out and shot again..... Still fails to eject.
    I'm going to order an aftermarket ejector, The factory one does seem a little bit low on the bolt....

    This thing is kicking my ass hard.

    By the way I shot Federal automatch, Aguilla super extra and CCI camoflage ammo fom a milk carton.
     

    Two36

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    So I shot the gun with the tape shimmed mags, had ejection problems with all 4. So I decided to cut one of the BX25s. A guy on another forum said this fixed his ejection problems. It did not fix mine.
    25769698b00ee98cc5714740a492d9859e6360b2.jpg

    Seems to be better but not fixed. I took a video and it seems like the bolt may not be coming all the way back when it does stovepipe.


    So I took it all back apart again and cleaned off the bolt and used 400 grit wet sand paper and polished the edges of the bolt and the surfaces that ride on any part of the receiver. Put it back together and by hand the bolt feels like it does cycle smoother.
    Took it out and shot again..... Still fails to eject.
    I'm going to order an aftermarket ejector, The factory one does seem a little bit low on the bolt....

    This thing is kicking my ass hard.

    By the way I shot Federal automatch, Aguilla super extra and CCI camoflage ammo fom a milk carton.
    Ive got some of the volquartsen internal replacement parts laying in the shop, but don't own a 10/22. PM me your address and I'll send them your way.
    Not saying it'll fix the problems, but can't hurt.
     

    SanPatHogger

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    I already put in the Volquartsen firing pin and extractor. Misfires are almost non existant and the brass always comes out of the chamber....
    Running out of ideas.
     

    Two36

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    I already put in the Volquartsen firing pin and extractor. Misfires are almost non existant and the brass always comes out of the chamber....
    Running out of ideas.
    The parts I have are springs and the the rubber bolt stops(whatever they're called)..
    Yours if you want them.
     

    FuhQ

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    I put all Valquartsen internals in mine back when I first built it in 2002, and It's been flawless other than a few times it got dirty from carbon, so I cleaned it, and then no more issues. Other than the barrel, I probably don't clean that gun but every 5,000-10,000 rounds. I shoot suppressed now, so every so often I'll wipe the back of the barrel and chamber area out with a RemOil cloth, and then put a mag back in it, but that's about the only cleaning I've done on that gun in 20 years. Occasionally I'll pull the stock and clean underneath it just so it doesn't get too damn nasty...But that's only like every 5-10 years.

    I highly recommend the Valquartsen internals. Definitely a nice upgrade, especially if you have the bolt-lock disconnect that allows you to engage the bolt into battery by just pulling it backwards and letting it run home, without having to push that stupid safety bar under the trigger. Also the extended mag button is a lifesaver. 👍🏼
     
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    FuhQ

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    Also, I hate to say it, but nobody's mentioned a rough chamber... A simple barrel swap might be in order, and it would probably be significantly more accurate with a good stock and a high-quality barrel with a Bentz Match Chamber, like the Valquartsen barrels. Put one on mine back in Dec 2020 (my match barrel wasn't threaded), and I've been thoroughly pleased. Puts 10 shots inside of a 1.5" group at 100 yards with CCI SV ammo. And I regularly take it out to 200 just for fun, plinking on the 5" challenge tree gongs. And I'm usually at least 8/9 out of 10 shots on those.

    Right now It's sitting in a cheap Hogue Overmold stock, but I've got a nice Tactical Solutions laminated thumbhole stock I don't use anymore...Doesn't fit my hand right. Never did, so it wasn't on there very long.
     
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    SanPatHogger

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    I did the tape trick on the mags. Did not help.
    I cut the ejector off one of my BX-25 mags, no help.
    Clean and lube, clean and lube.... nothing.

    Friend of mine is letting me shoot his CZ 452 varmint till I get my own.
    So Saturday night we went out and shot to confirm zero and dope from 50-110 with the 22 bolt guns for a match next weekend.

    Ran CCI Minimags...... Not one malfunction.
    This gun runs with Minimags.
    I guess I'll buy a couple bricks of Minimags and call it good.
    Thank you guys for all your input and suggestions. It's been hell, but I smiles after me and my buddy ran 2 mags through it perfectly.
     
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    NewsShooter

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    I'd swap the bolt and barrel, polish the inside of the receiver. If it is running with mini mags it's a friction issue if it has the stock handle. I have three I built, they all shoot as good as my Bergara B14r.
     

    Moose

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    I did the tape trick on the mags. Did not help.
    I cut the ejector off one of my BX-25 mags, no help.
    Clean and lube, clean and lube.... nothing.

    Friend of mine is letting me shoot his CZ 452 varmint till I get my own.
    So Saturday night we went out and shot to confirm zero and dope from 50-110 with the 22 bolt guns for a match next weekend.

    Ran CCI Minimags...... Not one malfunction.
    This gun runs with Minimags.
    I guess I'll buy a couple bricks of Minimags and call it good.
    Thank you guys for all your input and suggestions. It's been hell, but I smiles after me and my buddy ran 2 mags through it perfectly.
    Mini mags run better then anything in all my 10/22 rifles keep using them and you will be happy with the results.
     

    NewsShooter

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    Mini mags run better then anything in all my 10/22 rifles keep using them and you will be happy with the results.

    Should be able to run standard velocity reliably. They're more accurate than mini mags too.
     
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    SanPatHogger

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    I would really like the gun to cycle SV.
    I was thinking that the charging handle and guide rod might be a little stiff. Maybe the spring is a little heavy. But the spring still has to be strong enough to strip a round and chamber it.... Maybe the hammer spring is a little heavy, but it has to be heavy enough to light off a round reliably....

    I have a bolt gun to shoot until mine shows up. Got my own CZ on the way.
     

    spartan67

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    Here is an Idea.

    #1. You keep your Dads 10/22 as is.
    ZERO mods!
    Keeping it as it was in all your memories.

    #2 Go out and buy your own 10/22.
    This way you 2 can shoot your 10/22's TOGETHER!
    Massive great memories!
     
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    SanPatHogger

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    I was going to start a new thread but I'll just keep yapping here.
    So a friend of mine has loaned me a rifle to shoot for a while. Its a CZ 452 Varmint.
    Shot it a few times and found this gun won't eject correctly either. I really thought he was messing with me bad.....
    Ended up pulling the extractors out and cleaning them and its fixed.
    Now I shoot some CCI SV and it shoots soooo good. 5 shot groups that are a clover leaf at 50 yards.
    Shot at 100 and shooting amazing small groups. Tune the velocity in the balistic app and shoot at 50, 75, 100 and 110.
    I feel like I can't miss. This rifle is amazing.
    Shot this little steel spinner at 110. The guy who owns the rifle won't sell it to me, so I told a few people I am in the market for one.
    668882368.jpg



    My cousin sends me some pictures of a 455 with a threaded barrel.
    IMG_4437.jpg

    IMG_2267.jpg


    He tells me the guy will take $400 for it.
    I stold him I'll send a check if he can get it. An hour or so later he sends me pictures of the gun in his truck.
    I won't have it for a few months, I'm in Texas and he's in Georgia.
    I hope it shoots like a 452 varmint.
     

    FuhQ

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    I was going to start a new thread but I'll just keep yapping here.
    So a friend of mine has loaned me a rifle to shoot for a while. Its a CZ 452 Varmint.
    Shot it a few times and found this gun won't eject correctly either. I really thought he was messing with me bad.....
    Ended up pulling the extractors out and cleaning them and its fixed.
    Now I shoot some CCI SV and it shoots soooo good. 5 shot groups that are a clover leaf at 50 yards.
    Shot at 100 and shooting amazing small groups. Tune the velocity in the balistic app and shoot at 50, 75, 100 and 110.
    I feel like I can't miss. This rifle is amazing.
    Shot this little steel spinner at 110. The guy who owns the rifle won't sell it to me, so I told a few people I am in the market for one.
    View attachment 7827974


    My cousin sends me some pictures of a 455 with a threaded barrel.
    View attachment 7827983
    View attachment 7827984

    He tells me the guy will take $400 for it.
    I stold him I'll send a check if he can get it. An hour or so later he sends me pictures of the gun in his truck.
    I won't have it for a few months, I'm in Texas and he's in Georgia.
    I hope it shoots like a 452 varmint.
    I would verify that it has 1/2x28 threads... Most CZ rifles come with weird Euro threads like 1/2x20... So I would confirm thread pitch before trying to screw on a suppressor. 👍🏼
     

    forthehunt

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    I'm not a rimfire shooter so I don't really know what is considered good accuracy.

    I have a T Bolt in a light sporter barrel. I shoot a magazine almost every second day in my 100m backyard range. Most nights, I am within 1 inch group and within 2 inches of POA.

    Cleaned every 100 rounds. Never had a malfunction. Ejection is a little strong and random (unlike my centerfires that I can eject into a bucket consistently).

    Tossed up between the cz457 and LA101 for my next. Went with another T bolt but in a varmint with adjustable cheek.

    My friends who have shot my T bolt have also bought one, making it four new rifles on the way.

    PS. I should mention I shoot off natural rests only. No bags, no bipods or tripods. Just random arrangement of logs for the day.
     
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    bwall57

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    I had a Ruger Precision for a month or two..... The CZ457s are fairly nice and you can get the trigger down to 6 / 8 ounces with a
    new spring. McMaster Carr #9657K611 for the .014" wire spring or the Yo-Dave size, .018" wire #9657K612.

    Still all three of my 457s sit in the closet unused. I had a Vudoo and it was very nice. ( See last image ) For $1000.00 and
    a $5.00 trigger mod my B14R is all I need. It's about the only rapid fire bolt that I shoot. The trigger already has the hole so all you
    need do is enlarge it and tap it for a #6-32 long nose spring plunger. The plunger number is McMaster Carr #8495A11 (get the one with
    the nylon thread locker) It takes about 20 minutes to do start to finish. Drill, tap, install, adjust....
    It's compressed nose force is 4.5 pounds. It is shown next to the dime in photo #5. It also allows you to have an adjustable sear
    in your trigger. The factory trigger is long, heavy and gritty. ( crap! ) I also replaced the bolt knob with a Vudoo knob. The rail is
    an EGW and about $40.00 from evil-bay. Cheap rings, about $40.00. Junky bi-pod Pic rail adapter. $300.00 Atlas bi-pod. Nice
    but pricey.
    $2000.00 Trijicon 5-50x56 MOA scope.... Custom parallax wheel to use scope as a range estimator. I'm not allowed a stand alone
    range estimator in FT comps and all of the distances are unknown. FT is basically simulated hunting.
    Sounds like the B14R is the way to go. What magazines are you using and where did you buy them. thx
     

    shootrj2003

    Private
    Minuteman
    Jan 8, 2008
    36
    8
    69
    NY
    So I'm having a hard time getting the 10/22 to run reliably.
    My dad got me the gun when I was a kid.
    Talked to him today and told him I'm going to end up with a bolt gun 22 anyway, and if I cant get the 10/22 to run it will just sit and got get used. He's cool with me trading it out.
    Looking at a handfull of guns. Goal will be to run rimfire matches with it. Probably shoot rats at the hog feeder too.
    1, I posted about this one before, Walmart has the savage MK2 in a boyds stock with a threaded bull barrel.
    2, CZ AT ONE. Looks pretty nice.
    3, Looking at 3 different Rugers. The 8351 is black plastic and threaded stainless barrel. The 8348 is the laminated stock with heavy threaded stainless barrel. And then the 8378 is the long range target.
    The only reason I am leaning toward the Rugers is because I already have a few 10 and 25 round mags....
    The Bergara looks real nice but I've heard a lot of bad things and a buddy has one that the trigger sucked and then got worse as he shot it. I dont want to spent $1,100 and then have to spend more money to replace brand new parts....
    And I'm poor. So drooling at pictures of Voodoos is as close as I'll get to one....
    Ruger is alright for a semi,my preference there is Marlin,but for the best accuracy get a bolt,and the best bolt out there right now is Bergara BMR,accuracy,technology, precision ,a top line barrel maker,trained by Ed Shilen with Rifles designed by a retired United States Marine straight out of the Marine Corps Precison weapons Unit. You get no better than that -ever- Semper Fi oorah my Alma Mater is Parris Island S.C. Class of 1972 by the way.
     
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    Cowpokey

    MSgt, USAF Ret
    Full Member
    Minuteman
  • May 1, 2020
    1,743
    5,643
    Bel Air, MD
    Ruger is alright for a semi,my preference there is Marlin,but for the best accuracy get a bolt,and the best bolt out there right now is Bergara BMR,accuracy,technology, precision ,a top line barrel maker,trained by Ed Shilen with Rifles designed by a retired United States Marine straight out of the Marine Corps Precison weapons Unit. You get no better than that -ever- Semper Fi oorah my Alma Mater is Parris Island S.C. Class of 1972 by the way.
    I read good things about the BMR rifles, and now that I have one, I'm seriously impressed that they can turn out the level of quality and consistency at the price point they are at.
     

    Urimaginaryfrnd

    Sergeant
    Full Member
    Minuteman
    Apr 22, 2009
    165
    5
    66
    Iowa, U.S.A.
    Damn, y'all tore it up today.
    And you are right, The 10/22 stays.
    I've got 2 factory 10 round mags and 2 BX25 mags. I'll clean the 10s, the 25s are new.
    I will take it apart again and clean it out. There is ZERO dirt in it. I've cleaned it really deep. But I will get all the oil out and re lube it with CLP or Hoppes oil. Both here, I'll try one and then the other if needed.
    A 22 does have a lot less power to run teh action, so thinner and less makes sense. My Taurus 92 runs sooo nice with 5w30, so does the AR and the 870.... Probably got carried away.
    Thank you all. I'll clean up, retest and report back.
    If the ruger does not work right contact Ruger

    Customer Service - Newport, NH​

    411 Sunapee Street, Newport, NH 03773
    Telephone: 336-949-5200 / Fax: 603-863-6165
    (Monday through Friday 8:00am - 5:00pm ET)

    Customer Service - Prescott, AZ​

    200 Ruger Road, Prescott, AZ 86301
    Telephone: 336-949-5200 / Fax: 928-541-8835
    (Monday through Friday 6:00am - 4:00pm MST)

    Customer Service - Mayodan, NC​

    271 Cardwell Road, Mayodan, NC 27027
    Telephone: 336-949-5200 / Fax: 336-949-5300
    (Monday through Friday 8:00am - 5:00pm ET)

    ShopRuger Customer Service​

    700 S Ayersville Road, Mayodan, NC 27027
    Telephone: 336-949-5200 / Fax: 336-949-5300
    (Monday through Friday 8:00am - 5:00pm ET)
     

    AirGunShawn

    Gunny Sergeant
    Full Member
    Minuteman
    Apr 2, 2019
    781
    325
    FuhQ, Has given everyone prudent advice. Check the thread dia and pitch.

    I had a RRPR for a couple of months. I could never suggest it to anyone. But that is simply one mans opinion.
    Some people have said that they must be good because of the countless rifles that have been made.
    Conversely, low quantity production items must be trash.... ?? Trashy Corvettes, Indy cars, 757 aircraft.
    NO... amazing

    All 3 of my 457s have 1/2-28 threads for any device that I may want to add to your muzzle here in the USA. .
    The exception being my 457 Royal. It has 1/2-20 threads and will need an adapter. My Royal was one of the first one's brought
    into the USA so CZ America may have changed the thread pitch to match by now. I bought an adapter from Evil-bay for
    about $20.00 but it looks like an afterthought and it took time to find it and get it into my hands. ( see image #1 )
    Below is a Royal target shot at 50 yards with a factory gun and it's short pencil barrel.

    My three CZ 457s have AREA 419 rails because they clamp onto the dove tail securely. Other rails require set screws being driven
    down onto the receiver. I spoke with Bob at DIP and he suggested putting #7 lead shot under the set screws to prevent damage.
    If you were to use brass tipped set screws you will find out that they will leave yellow-ish skid marks on the bluing. Even if it
    doesn't shift the screws rotate as they are torqued.

    Except for the At-One that has a couple of chips to the stock, they are LN with box. They also have all of the factory components.

    Lap your 457 trigger blade sear and replace the spring and that will yield substantial benefits and be a great interim solution.
    The 457 trigger can go as low as 7 ounces. It will also remove any gritty feel and it will break crisp and clean. McMaster # 9657K611
    ( .375" long x .148" dia. x .014" wire dia. )

    I'm going through an older rifle stage. I find I really like older stuff like a Springfield 1922 Mk2 and a Winchester 52 Pre-A,
    old Anschutz 54s, Remington 541X, H&R M12, ( latest addition ) etc. They shoot really well and I like the retro style of them.
    Just the other day 5/25/2022, I got my first Redfield 3200 16X scope. ( shown in image #6 )

    All of my toys are a little pricey but I'm worth it. I imagine most of you are as well. It's hard to put a price on pride of ownership.
    Have you ever had buyers remorse because you bought stuff that was too nice?
     

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    Scrumbag

    Sergeant of the Hide
    Full Member
    Minuteman
    Mar 4, 2020
    155
    81
    U.K.
    Have you tried replacing your springs? If you're getting stove pipes it might be that your bolt isn't travelling fully or easy enough. I would check your springs aren't either gunked up or haven't work hardened.

    Scrummy
     

    RTH1800

    Supporter
    Supporter
    Full Member
    Minuteman
    Supporter+
  • Sep 16, 2009
    8,857
    5,038
    Midwest
    “Permission to get a new .22”

    Dude, you need to work on your strategy! 😂
     

    SanPatHogger

    Sergeant of the Hide
    Full Member
    Minuteman
    Mar 1, 2020
    459
    367
    I got permission. My wife is awesome.
    New rifle is in Georgia. Next time my parents make a road trip I'll have it.
    After the new gun is scoped and running at matches I'll dig into the Ruger again.
     
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