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Gun cleaning supply list. Lets year what you have and what you do.

Tonmarchelli

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 19, 2012
164
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42
Surprise, AZ
Hi guys. After using a bore snake on my last few rifles: I now have a decent long range rifle and want to step up to the better more proven methods of cleaning my bore. Ill admit this is a little foreign to me so I'm wondering if I can get your input on what tools/chemicals you use and the methods in which you use them. Ill need to purchase everything from the bore guide to the rod to the patches and solvents.


Thanks for the help. And for reference: my rifle is a remington sendero SSII in 300 win mag in an aics with a timney trigger.

I'd also love to hear when one should clean his rifle. I hear a lot of people clean after every shooting. While other clean when accuracy falls off.
 
I run a patch soaked in KG-1 up and down the bore a couple times in a slotted jag then let it sit for a few minutes. 4-5 strokes with a brush to knock loose any carbon the KG-1 was working on, then punch it twice with a patch on a jag. Wrap a patch around the brush, soak in KG-1, and give 1-2 passes with the brush/patch then 4-5 with just the brush. Punch it twice with a patch on a jag. Repeat the patch on a brush if carbon is still present on the second patch. Repeat the process with KG-12 to eliminate copper if copper fouling is a problem, or just let the bore soak with wipeout after cleaning the carbon out.

I wait until accuracy starts to fall off before cleaning. I used to clean after every range trip, or every 50-75 rounds, but at the end of the day I feel like it is just too much work (and probably doing more harm than good) for little or no practical benefit.

Cleaning Gear:

KG-1
KG-12
Wipe out
Slip EWL
TW-25b
Tipton Rod
Bore Guide
Nylon brushes
 
Dewey rod, rod guide, nylon brush, and parker hale jag. Boretech C4. I use the C4 so I only remove carbon and not the copper (yes, I'm one of those guys). I clean after every trip to the range.

1. Run C4 soaked patch through and let sit for 5ish minutes.
2. Run nylon brush through 3-5 times.
3. Run another C4 soaked patch through and let sit for 5 minutes.
4. Run dry patches through until clean. (My average is 3 patches)
5. Run another soaked patch through if it won't be shot again for more then a day.
6. Run 1 dry patch before shooting again.
7. Refrigerate for 1 hour.
8. Serve. (Enough to take down 10 bad guys per magazine)

I also use Deweys chamber cleaning kit and I always clean the chamber before the bore. Anyone know where to get a nylon chamber brush for an AR-10?

My GAP-10 stays really clean and usually the 3rd dry patch comes out clean. My girl is low maintenence, god I love her.
 
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Dewey rods (Copper Eliminator version), Dewey chamber guide, Tipton chamber cleaning kit, Dewey Copper Eliminator jags and nylon brushes.
Breakfree CLP for simple cleanup of all metal parts and lubricating metal for storage.
Boretech Eliminator for carbon and copper removal.
Brownells' cotton patches
Froglube paste for lubing my lugs and moving parts
Remington action cleaner for cleaning out my chamber to remove all solvents and leave no residue
Dental picks
Hemostats
Toothbrushes
 
dewey rod
Sinclair o-ring bore guide
butches bore shine and gun oil
cotton flannel patches , nylon brushes
chamber cleaning kit
good supply of body bags

some rifles I clean when I start to see accuracy fall a bit, others I clean after each range session, but I always make sure the chambers are clean
 
Dewey rod, I use the Dewey Parker Hale jags, Mike Lucas bore guide, Hoppes #9 will clean it all and does. also have some Butch's bore shine and use it once in awhile, works fine as well. I clean after every shoot, run one wet patch out the end of the muzzle then wet a new patch and run it back and forth a few times, re-wet it and run it again and again, it it gets dirty really fast Ill wet another new patch and run in down the bore 10 times or so and let it sit for an hour maybe more, maybe less, then run a patch of kroil down the tube, let that sit for days sometimes, then when Im ready to shoot again Ill run 2 dry patches and go shootin'.
 
I'm behind the times I guess... hoppes 12" rod sections, patch loop, foaming bore cleaner, rem oil, and a t shirt.

Foam the bore, let it sit 30min, then push the rod from the muzzle to the breech with no attachment. Then I screw on the patch loop behind the receiver. I put a long strip of shirt (2"x12" or so) in the loop and using a muzzle guide, pull the rod out of the muzzle. Repeat as necessary, then an oil patch, then a dry patch.
 
One piece rod (I use a Tipton carbon fiber rod)
Bore guide
Jag (I have one of those jags that isn't supposed to give a false positive on copper...I think it is nickle coated.....can't remember the name)
Nylon brushes
Cotton Patches
BoreTech Eliminator
Chamber mop
RemOil and Tetra grease
 
I've been using Pro Shot stuff for as long as I can remember. I finally got one of their long coated rods for punching the bore and one of their chamber guides as well. All I do is dip the nylon brush in hoppe 9, run it through a few times then follow up with dry patches on a jag. Last patch gets a light coat of CLP. Process hasn't failed me yet and is done in about 10 minutes.
 
Dewey rod
Mtm rod guide
MPro 7
Hoppes elite oil
Gunslick nylon brush
Foaming bore cleaner
Ronsonol lighter fluid

Start with wet patches till no more carbon (usually 3-4)
Brush about 5-10 strokes, clean brush with ronsonol
Wet patches until no more carbon, repeat until brushing produces no more carbon.
Wipe out chamber throat area with wet patch wrapped around brush
Dry patches in chamber and bore to remove solvent

Every 500 rds or so, use foaming cleaner to remove copper.

This is for a factory barrel, so with a high quality aftermarket barrel, your cleaning regimen may less brush intensive, and more copper-removal focused

Just as a note, I like to keep a record of what it took to get the rifle clean along with round count for that particular shooting session. Helps to develop an idea of the "character" of that barrel.
 
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Sinclair bore guide with rifle cradled in a stand. Montana extreme rod and jag. NO BRUSHING!!! It is bad for your crown. I start with wipe out accelerator on a jag one caliber smaller than I'm shooting. let it soak a bit then repeat. Then I give it a shot of wipe out from the muzzle end and let it fill the bore. I let that soak for an hour or so then repeat till a patch comes out clean. NO BRUSHING!!!
 
thanks for all the info guys, Looks like ill be making another trip to the gun shop to pick up some supplies. :)

another question I have is regarding the boresnake. Ive used it for years mostly on hunting rifles and am just now getting into precision shooting.

What is the take from precision shooters on the boresnake? any concrete reasons why they are not used?
 
clean your rifle with the bore snake. Run it through a few times. Then clean with a cleaning rod and get the rest of the crap it missed out. Have fun cleaning the bore snake later.

However, I do see it use as a field expedient method of cleaning. It will get your bore acceptably clean in very short time.
 
I have found my .338 shoots significantly better with a clean bore. Some people say they dot clean for several hundred rounds though. I use a jag and patches exclusively. No brushes. One patch with Butches Bore Shine, let it soak 5-10 mins. Followed by another wet patch, then 2-3 dry patches. another wet patch with Pro Shot and 2 dry patches to follow and it's like a mirror.

And shoots lights out. After about 10-15 rounds it opens up a little but might be because theres only 75 rounds through the new barrel?