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Gunsmithing Gunsmiths Who Have Worked On Tikka T3 Actions

Blanman

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
May 29, 2008
332
7
Utah
Is the action thread pitch metric or standard? I've tried looking it up on the internet but I've found conflicting reports on whether there are any of the actions with standard threads. I will greatly appreciate your input.
 
I would be very surprised if a European rifle comes with inch threads, though stranger things have happened.
 
1"-16 is what I've seen on them as well. They are a slick action to work with. Gotta get a hold of .693-.695 bushings to blueprint by dialing with PTG .500 rod though.
 
Thanks for the info! I've heard that the T3 actions are already fairly true, has this been your experience with them? They seem to be a much better manufactured piece of metal than the 700..
 
I had my Tikka T3 Tactical turned into a 6.5x47, and the only thing my gunsmith had to do with the action was lap the lugs a bit as it was otherwise really true. The threads were standard.

I will tell you that the action is good to go, but their bolt stop mechanism is fairly flimsy....that is to say that the pin that holds it in place sheared in the first 250 rounds on my rifle, and right in the middle of a match this weekend. I'm hoping it was just a bad pin, but I run my bolt hard on most stages that are under time.
 
That's unfortunate to hear about the bolt stop since I too, run the bolt hard and fast. Is there an aftermarket upgrade for it or are you stuck with the OEM?
 
According to Tikka (Beretta USA) the scope mount/rail screws on all Tikkas made after 2004 are US. I can't remember the pitch (6-24? 6-32?)... but they are not metric according to mfg.

I have a new T3 barrel here in front of me (removed for a wildcat project). A thread pitch gauge shows that it is 16 TPI and the profile is an exact fit for my US gauge. And the Major Diameter of the threads measures .9955" So 1" x 16 is what it is measuring out to.

For gunsmithing... PacNor Barreling did the barrel swap for me. Reasonable prices. Not fast, but the job they did was both difficult and first rate. I'd use them again.

Anyone need a new unfired T3 barrel chambered in .223?

Cheers,

Sirhr
 
How does that barrel swap shoot for you? I'm plannin on doing the same, I have no interest in the factory barrels.
 
They are great for builds, the pin is an easy fix with a harder piece of steel. Or can even be opened up a bit for a larger pin, although 223AI's is the only one I've ever seen or heard of going down. How it shoots will depend on the smith doing the barrel swap, like any other build.
 
Have not shot it yet... Have to make my ammunition.

If you look under the thread "After a year of waiting" or similar... you will see the thread. The barrel I put in is a .14/221 Eichelberger.

I had been told that the barrels on Tikkas are often destroyed removing them. But PacNor got it out no issues. Not a mark on it. Or the action. Professional...

Cheers,

Sirhr
 
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Are they as a pain in the ass to get off as a stock Remington barrel? Didn't think it could get any worse than that..
 
They are worse to get off than a Remmy. I re-barreled one to a 6 creed without any mods to the action. It shot about .3" in a Whiskey 3 stock.
 
I've built a lot of tikka's and they are all 1"-16. I don't find the barre any harder to remove than a 700, but that said, they require an ass load of torque to remove!
 
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The T3 shoots generally exceptionally good so i think it's vise to testfire a barrel before swopping it (if the caliber is the desired one)

Håkan
 
Just another confirmation. I just gauged factory new 223 barrel that I just took off a sporter T3 for a build and it is definatly 1" x 16tpi. It matched a thread gauge Perfectly. The OD of the threads measured .999" on two of my calipers.
 
Also the barrel didn't break off any harder than any Factory Remy or Savage I have taken off. The sporter barrel contour made it a little harder for me to clamp on but only damage I did was rub the blueing in one spot.
 
Also the barrel didn't break off any harder than any Factory Remy or Savage I have taken off. The sporter barrel contour made it a little harder for me to clamp on but only damage I did was rub the blueing in one spot.

this is my experience as well. I think people struggling with it are going about it incorrectly.
 
Ok guys you've been great, now onto action wrenches....any other options besides the Roedale(?) Precision guy in Europe?
 
Ok guys you've been great, now onto action wrenches....any other options besides the Roedale(?) Precision guy in Europe?

The only way to get a good tikka wrench is to make one. I'll post a pic of mine up if I can remember too. Also, make barrel blocks that match your contour. Heat the threads via flame or boiling to break down the loctite.
 
You can use a wrench for the Rem 700, it's the one from Brownell's that comes in two pieces. You take the second piece and flip it around so that the flat part on the wrench mates up to the flat on the top of the T3.
Justin
 
Another question for you all, you've been great so far. Can you swap out the long and short action bolt stops with each other? If so, is it a huge pain?
 
This is good news then. I found a used Tikka for about $460 in a local shop around here that's in 25-06 but I want to swap it to a shorter length caliber. Thanks! I appreciate it!
 
Think I might just go with the .308 version for my donor action...finding replacement stops seem to be difficult and around $65 bucks for a little bolt stop...come on, little much for that little guy
 
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Here is my latest Tikka build. It was in the for sale ad with a 308 16" barrel. Ripped that one off and used a Krieger 6mm 1/8 RV to make a 6mm Creedmoor @24". It has one of my brakes on it. It came with the T4 90% shell and CDI DBM. I added pillars and bedded it. As it sits 13.5 lbs.

 
This is good news then. I found a used Tikka for about $460 in a local shop around here that's in 25-06 but I want to swap it to a shorter length caliber. Thanks! I appreciate it!

25-06 is a good donor because it comes with the "long action" bolt stop and of course it has the 0.473" bolt face. If you have to but the "long action" bolt stop it's like $60.
 
Here is my latest Tikka build. It was in the for sale ad with a 308 16" barrel. Ripped that one off and used a Krieger 6mm 1/8 RV to make a 6mm Creedmoor @24". It has one of my brakes on it. It came with the T4 90% shell and CDI DBM. I added pillars and bedded it. As it sits 13.5 lbs.


Nice looking rifle build toygunner. What magazine box is that?
 
Got out to shoot the Tikka in 6 Creedmoor today. Here is the outstanding group using 105 Berger Hybrids and IMR 4350 powder. The load had a poor SD. This is 3 shots @ 100. I know its only three, but I get nervous usually and will screw it up from there. The tear on the bottom was the staple.
 
I have used several Tikka actions for builds. I think they are very good for tactical rifles. Stiff action (great for switch barrels), smooth and short bolt throw, and I haven't had one that needed to be trued. The factory trigger is excellent and easily lightened up with a different spring. All for around $450. what more do you want?? Here's the latest... 6mmSLR, Bartlien 7.5 T, Manners stock, Adj Cheek by StockDoc with Terry Cross hardware (fantastic job), Lumley bottom metal (really nice bottom metal!), Tikka Performance Center 20moa rail, and Hinterland bolt.

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Shoots good too

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